MereKat
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Posts posted by MereKat
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I had a similar problem. I bought a replacement empty case from eBay for about £4. Had to swap the internal parts from under the button to the new, and used the old "top half" with the key blade and transponder. Not had an issue since!
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I would like to add some Usb outlets to my car, a Mk2 Octavia.
Simple thinking says take power from the fuse board, run to a distribution box and then run power to where's needed.
I want to add 4 to the car, 2 up front and 2 at the rear, that'll allow my tablet and phone to be charged and my boy's tablet and wife's phone to charget too. I have the modules en route and will be 2x dual outlet from a single tranformer. Rears will be mounted on the side of the console, 1 front will in the top dash compartment and the other in the facia adaptor for my headunit.
Would this be the best way of doing it? If so:
What size fuse would I need?
What distribution block? I wouldn't have thought crimping together would be the best way?
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Hi Adam, another one from Norwich!
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Will have a look at that then, thanks!
Where abouts is it on the 105?
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Hmmmm.....may have to have a good look at it then! Multimeter will be bought this week and I'll find a guide to see what I'm actually looking at! If I find nowt, it'll go to a pro! Hoping it is just a little corrosion or something sticking, can't be doing with any issues with Christmas arriving!
Cheers guys!
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I've had my Pd105 Elegance since Feb, and pretty much since I got it it's had this issue...
Most mornings I'll get the battery light on when I start it, and if it's cold it'll come on during the day too, it'll go after a quick press on the accelerator.
When running at idle, all lights go dim and brighten constantly. Doesn't matter if it's all the lights on just 1 interior light.
VCDS brings up an under voltage fault for all locking modules, but nothing else.
Apparently the alternator was changed last year, but I've since learned it wasn't.
So, before I go out and buy a multimeter to check what the voltages are, what connections can I check, and where are they? I'm wondering if it's as simple as a corroded terminal somewhere. Some people have also mentioned a broken sensor wire?
If it is the alternator, is there anything I can do to help it keep going a little while longer until I can afford to replace it? Not sure if electrical contact cleaner might help? When I can do it, and if it needs replacing, are there any larger amp alts that'll bolt straight on? Next year I'm hoping will bring some nice powerful audio into the car so I may aswell sort the supply if I can...
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Looks similar damage to what I had, insurance invoice was £2600 in parts and labour, but that was with pattern parts. If it is going to be repaired, state you want genuine parts only! The pattern parts used on mine didn't fit properly and it went back in to have everything replaced again! It still isn't 100%, but you have to look for the odd gaps! I also had no airbag deployed (and didn't notice the pretensioners either), I went into the back of a new mini 4x4 thing at around 30 :/
Mines a 56 plate Elegance estate, so you'll probably get to keep enjoying yours too!
Oh, and my courtesy cars were a Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107, courtesy cars are without doubt the most fun cars to have!
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Coded on vcds?
Nope, took halogens out, put hids in. Had no problems what so ever with them in the 4 or 5 months they've been in! It was an ex cambs police car so doubt they would have done anything previously....?
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My '56 plate has standard cheapo ballasts and lamps without cancellers fitted (bought as "canbus" kit for £32, but didn't fit the canceller thingys) and I get no bulb errors...mine are slimline and are fitted inside the headlight unit so look completely stock
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Darkside offer a kit and pump for £170 for my PD105, wouldn't have thought it would be much different for other PDs. The engines I think are the same across the brands to, the BXE I have is also in the Passat too.
Is the timing belt the same? I thought I found a bargain kit for my old golf for £35, but the tensioner was manual instead of auto. Auto kit was £90.
Could be worth a call to Darkside, I'm pretty sure the £170 includes Vat.
Who is the supplier you found?
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I've had these in a few cars and vans over the years...
Now I know what it's for!!
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I average 43-46mpg calculated. Most miles are 7miles to work and 7 miles home, and the odd run at the weekends. Clear roads in the morning, rush hour going home!
I used to use vPower Nitro, but now just collect clubland points and haven't noticed a real difference in consumption. Seems my driving style is similar to yours taximan, I don't want things seizing because of buildups!
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May be worth seeing if the code has been written on the back of the stereo. If it isn't, at least you haven't spent anything. But if it is, happy days!
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Have you tried TPS?
If this is nearly what you're after, may be worth a call to Darkside....
May be worth calling a local turbo rebuild company too? I imagine they'd use a few...
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I have a BXE pre-fl (56) with 118k, no issues with it at all and the power seems adequate for a daily car, easily takes motorway cruising and will happily nudge it the wrong side of a ban without you noticing . Mine was an ex cambs police car, so even with it being thrashed from cold it seems to be fine...if in need of a service...
I have also read a lot of problems with the conrods, but then, how many times do people take the time to say they don't have a problem? The stories I've read don't really make a dent in the reputation, especially with 1000s of Vag cars sold with this engine being problem free.
If you buy one and find it isn't powerful enough, a remap will soon sort it. A friend of mine has a Mk5 Golf with the BXE and it's currently at around 135bhp/280lbft with a remap alone. New inlet and turbo along with decayt etc will see a bit more...mine will be done at some point too...
DPF may have Been an option on the final run, as that would have been around when the DPF was standard...
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I bought my '56 Mk2 PD105 Elegance Estate for £4k in Feb. Not had any issues with it over the 3k miles I've done so far, it's now on 117k. I think it was a little overpriced, but I was a little desperate and it was either this, a Ford or a Citreon....
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Between 22-29 I've had, in order:
MK3 Fiesta 1.1 - scraped...rot
Rover 214 (Mk2) - scraped...Pas failed
Peugeot 106 1.1 - written off
Rover 620 - written off
MK3 fiesta 1.1 - scraped...rust
Suzika Swift 1.0 - sold at 90000 miles, still on the road
Mk4 Golf 1.6 - scraped...gearbox failed
Renault Megane Classic 1.6e Saloon - scraped...chassis rotted through!
Mk3 Golf 16v - sold at 193000 miles, still going strong!
Mk2 Octavia Estate - current
Next I want a Ph1 106 and put an K04'd AGU 1.8t with 4mo running gear in
just need a nice sized garage and a few spare £s! -
Same with mine! Is it an easy job?
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I didn't even look at the date!
Sounds a bit Bell like to me...
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My drivers mirror vibrates at low RPM and when I have music loudish, passenger side is fine...need to stick it back on at some point!
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I use TPS Norwich now and again, always had discount and always go in the office and look up parts with the guys to avoid the wrong parts being ordered. I don't know any of them personally and always state it's cash only.
Better service than most other factors here, and they've been pretty good on prices for most things (£20something for a cambelt kit Inc new bolts etc....), plus 99% of what I've ordered has been with me within 2 days max!
I'll continue to use them over Gsf/Euros for a while yet.
Sell to "trade only"?? You sure you work for TPS Jay??
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I used a piggy back fuse and put it in the towbar fuse outlet, number 7 on mine iirc
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Dealer double din conversion kit is around the £60 iirc. If you're not after an immaculate finish, eBay can be your friend! My single din conversion was under £20 and you'll need a piggy back fuse for a switched live from the fusebox if you don't go genuine.
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You'll need an Iso convertor for aftermarket and single/double din conversion kit too, and run a switched live to the fusebox as the quadlock doesn't have it. Took me about 30mins from start to finish, including running my amp cables through. I bought a Connects2 kit (which some slate) which does the job and cost me less than £20 all in, and a fuse piggyback for the fusebox which was £1.something...all from eBay.
Aftermarket also brings things like USB into the car, but you'll lose the Cd changer and armrest Aux socket too.
Is my battery knackered?
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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Towbar fuse out is switched, I ran my aftermarket headunit from there via an add-a-circuit like above. Can't remember the number, but if I recall right different years and trims have the fuses in different places? I'm sure I found that when looking originally...