Octabus

2 years of skoda ownership has taught me one thing... buy the bolt kit aswell - so on Sunday afternoon, when everyone else has shut shop and gone home, you don't have to worry about saving that shredded bolt!

there are two drain holes at the back too, check the frost hasn't split the connector or the pipes

it sounds like the noise is a bit of turbo flutter (have a look/listen on youtube) Check the intake piping is all sealed up as the air box etc normally muffles the sound. EGR and sticky veins are fairly common and could be a clue to the coughing restored horses courtesy of mr muscle here:

Driving to and from work with a full clean MOT, hooligan air filter fitted to celebrate - great success!

I have to confess, I felt some trouser motions when I first encountered it! just don't blame me for the amount of sleep you will loose by clicking through it!

They just clip in, I think the rears might have a couple of screws? searching youtube will show you! the mk4 golfs/bora are the same

buy a 4x4, add the following: front bumper badges brakes (312mm fronts, vented rears from the VRS) wheels half leather seats (and the god awful white carpet) carbon wrap the drivers door handle, the middle dashboard trims if you're picky the roof lining and pillar trims exhaust of choice (vrs has a cutout in the bumper) remap R32 golf suspension gain: traction! ESP over TC satisfaction of having built a vrs that you can powerslide I started off going for the VRS replica, but when it cames to adding badges, a typo occured.. they joys of living in rural England! I stopped on the VRS route because I can drive onto ramps without using bits of scaffold board nobody ever suspects the plain old skoda less attention from police/robbers/general timewasters don't get tailgated by boy racers wanting to test the power of their corsas

They are now mostly in the £1500 range... Personally that would be my budget. I would buy one for £1000, then have full belt service, and fix any niggles I had used to barter on the price with the rest Currently have 2002 4x4 estate (i would say vrs, 4x4, and clean non ex-taxi diesel estates are in the same price band) paid £1200 from a garage with 120k, full service history, clean car and 11mths MOT 2 years on and that same car is on 155k, stage 1 map, uprated suspension, intercooler, many shiny bits, full leather, and a few oil changes - I've been offered £1,500 for it If its a well loved turbo charged estate you are looking for, I would recommend the 4x4. Most of the vrs examples will have been owned sooner or later by someone wanting a fast car, abused and sold on. After the map, mine keeps up with a vrs in a line, but leaves it behind off roundabouts and when its wet - sleeper!

if they are scratched, cracked,or simply missing local breakers yard or that pesky eBay. The front ones are the same hatch/estate, the rears are estate only. The VRS ones are no different to the others. If they are grey or going a bit blotchy any oil based substance will revive them short term - wd40, olive oil, baby oil etc for a longer fix unclip them, clean them off with hot soapy water, and hold the heat gun on them. don't do them on the car or the paint may blister. remove and paint is another option, colour coding works very well on the light coloured cars. plasticote, or flexible paint is advised If you do paint them, I very very very much advise to get some clear vinyl (or even carbon wrap?) on the rear one for under the tailgate. This is a scratch magnet!

I'll second that, the best price I could get on a back box was £300!

two friends with silver mk4 astras had the same problem, both cases was the starter motor... 99% of the time it would fire straight away, then, when they were in a rush, or it was piddling down with grumpy child and even grumpier woman on board... nothing! rocking doesn't always work, as it can't turn the motor unless it has engaged with the flywheel - hitting it with something solid was more effective. But ringing me to bring jump leads also helped?! (maybe that bit extra amps helped...) Moral of the story is, if its silver, it might be the starter motor thats getting a bit tired - a bit of carbon on the armature, or a bush thats past its best. A new starter motor and a fresh battery in the key fob won't harm anything. good luck

WD40 around the middle of the fan (motor) should help, check for debris caught round it but KEEP AN EYE ON THE FUSES ON TOP OF THE BATTERY - the ones under the clip cover, they get very hot when the fans are straining and have been known to catch fire. When its cold/light, remove the fuse for the fans (I think its the first or second one from the left but check first) to avoid fingers getting ripped off, then move the fans by hand to see if they feel stiff - if they do, replace them or turn the radio up and drive around with a fire extinguisher. It may be worth removing the fans to inspect and clean them, it could just be a bit of rubbish caught in them. Always remove the fuse before putting your hands near them as they can start even if the engine is off - I got bitten by one on a saxo, and I can assure you it hurts!

You're not the only one... my back box is a lost cause, its been sat in the scrap bin at my mates farm for the last 3 months! I chopped it out and replaced it with a bit of slightly bent 2.5£" tube flared down to fit - look horrific, sounds questionable, but the man from Vosa liked it last week, so it can stay until I find another option - trial and error tells me an A4 back ox is close, but too wide to fit between the wheel well and the chassis rail (there's 12" width realistically) an aftermarket S3, TT quattro type that doesn't have the box where the spare wheel well SHOULD be a close contender.. This has been an absolute blessing for using part numbers & ebay: http://etka.cc/skoda/parts_lst/lang/e/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2002/hg/5/catalog/sk/drive_standart/252 ETKA online, directed specifically at the rear axle on a 2002 model the result of that was confirming golf IV R32 springs and shocks will fit - about 20mm lower than standard, but much firmer ride

Still tempted... but I need 4x! JoshH you are correct: They are multifit spacers, if they were adapters, there would be a set of threaded holes (one set boltholes to fix to the hub, another set to fix the wheel to the adapter) I think the issue you may be having is depth of the female side of the centre bore in the spacer (or the middle bit that sticks out of the hub is too long) To try to determine if they will fit, you need to measure how deep the 57.1 mm bore goes into the spacer.... I'll try explain a bit more, as the more I read what I wrote, the less sure I am it makes sense! http://www.superforma.co.uk/hubcentric-explained the blue bit that sticks out of the hub on those pics, sticks out more than the hole in the spacer.... I hope that made sense, as that is the only reason I can see why they won't fit based on what has been said above! If you measure how far the spacers go in, we can measure how far our sticky out bits stick out, if we stick out less than you go in, they will fit!

*Update* Well, it arrived, would be a perfect fit behind the steering wheel, if only it would communicate with VAG! So, turbogauge 4 is not a VAG lover, anyone tried a scangauge? others?