OCTAVIA_4X4_ABT

I am just trying to emphasize that many problems are caused by the wires and not the parts themselves. I was facing problems with low charging voltage, melting fuse boxes, flashing dash lights, dim lights etc. For more details on the fixes see the link in my signature.

I agree, personally speaking, a 100% of my electrical problems were due to wires and connections, not parts. Ever since I replaced the alternator-to-battery wire, added some extra grounding wires and rebuilt the fuse box, all problems have gone.

After experiencing some electrical issues, I decided to do the grounding mod-see the full DIY here: https://diy-vag-20vt.blogspot.gr/2017/10/ground-wiring.html I used about 2 meters of 4 gauge wire as in the following links (scroll down to find the tab ''ΣΥΝΟΔΕΥΤΙΚΑ ΑΡΧΕΙΑ''to see their specs): copper crimp connectors wire I built the following wires (length is not standard as there are different ways to do it): Intake manifold to Right fender Intake manifold to Valve cover Intake manifold to Central point (near FPR) Central point (near FPR) to Tranny grounding point Central point (near FPR) to Battery Negative Battery Negative to left fender After installing I noticed a slightly smoother operation of the engine (mostly on idle), slightly better radio reception and higher charging voltage (my Scangauge now saws 13.8-13.9 compared to 13.2-13.4 volts before). I have attached some pics.

http://diy-vag-20vt.blogspot.gr/2013/11/yellow-coloured-text-is-about-front.html?m=1 Scroll down a little bit until you see the driver's door photos.

After you fill it up, try not to tighten the fuel filler cap, just put it on. Maybe this will help the air expand.

I agree that greasing will help a lot. Just dont use too much grease as it will spread everywhere. Here are my pics: http://diy-vag-20vt.blogspot.gr/2014/01/starter-maintenance-1-1-20-0-13-18-6-13.html

Thanks, just found some photos here https://2urbietorbi.wordpress.com/tag/car/ from the inside and there is extra silicone insulation so there mustn't be a problem.

I am having the same code, P0172. Did you finally sort it out? I have already cleaned the TB and I removed the MAF today but I found a crack to what seems to be an insulating glue. Any ideas?

why don't you try cleaning it first? If none of the buttons is broken then it is likely to work like new. http://diy-vag-20vt.blogspot.gr/2013/11/here-is-diy-for-cleaning-electric.html

Exactly these I would check too. Had similar issues, maf ok, coil packs are new, spark plugs are new. Also I temporarily exchanged injectors and temp sensor with another Octy. It proved to be bad fuel quality. I filled the tank with new petrol, it runs much much better now but I think I should use a cleaning product, sth like RedLine SL-1 or STP fuel Injector Cleaner. Buster5 have you tried anything similar? Suggestions anyone?

Today I removed the roof molding, its pretty easy, just lift with a screwdriver from the rear of the car. I found the holes covered by plastic caps. The total length is only 28 inches and I dont see how I will be able to install the rails from the wagon without drilling new holes. I imagine it will be much easier for the estates. Anyway, if the interior trim is removed I will be able to add the original 1u0860169 plates or retrofit some aftermarket rails. Any suggestions?

Yeah, the plates are item number 4 in the catalogue http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/body/body_work/exterior_equipment/roof_rack/summary_of_components_of_roof_rack_(octavia_combi)/

Yeah I saw your post, better start looking then and waiting for a diy write up! Thanks Mike

Thanks for the info, I'll do some search. I actually have roof bars, the ones that grip the underside of the door openings. But as I install-uninstall them occasionally, I want to save some time and avoid damaging the car paint... That is why I want to install the fixpoint ones. Or if possible, install roof rails and then bars on the roof rails.

Which means that if I order strips with tabs and replace the non-tab strips, will I be able to use bars for fixpoint? My estate has no tabs either...

If possible carefully examine the top of the gearbox for presence of water. Sometimes water leaks on it and it slowly evaporates, and you might not see any drips on the ground.

I guess it's highly unlikely but could it be from poor windshield sealant fitting? I rememer my first vauxhall cavalier m2 with a similar problem but that was pretty much ancient technology I guess!

I agree with IulianE, its a simple job and the result is always reliable. If you need guidance follow my guide... http://diy-vag-20vt.blogspot.gr/2014/01/starter-maintenance-1-1-20-0-13-18-6-13.html

Actually I would ''kill'' for a rear wiper! Anyone who wants to sell the whole system to me???? Or maybe the part number of the motor?

I can give you another solution. In the pictures 1-3 you can see the original spacer. What you can do is to make a home-made spacer like the one at the photo 4, no more than 1.5cm. Then try to compress the springs with your car raised and, if the gap at the arrow is enough, insert the home-made spacer above the original.

If you want to do it by yourself you will need this http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/running_gear_axles_steering_front_and_four-wheel_drive/rear_suspension_drive_shaft/repairing_rear_axle_(four-wheel_drive_vehicles)/removing_and_installing_springs_r32/removing_right_spring/ Standard spring compressors http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/user/products/large/68615-2-piece-coil-spring-compressor-set-9792-p.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/68615-2-piece-coil-spring-compressor-set-9792.html&h=400&w=400&tbnid=EZBh6DpuM2R4cM:&zoom=1&docid=J3OOssQBFCt46M&ei=gMj4VMOzBIi_PI2ogbgP&tbm=isch&ved=0CEwQMygkMCQ dont fit and are not powerful enough. Anyway, you can raise the car, remove one wheel and try to compress with your comressors (highly unlikely). The springs are TOO strong.... Buy 1.5-2cm height so that you wont have to cut them. Otherwise, you will probably need a bench vise http://www.irwin.com/tools/vises/bench-vises and a hack saw http://www.houzz.com/photos/20553251/Dwht20547-5-In-1-Hack-Saw-contemporary-hand-tools-and-tool-sets If u need anything else you are free to ask!

Just found some pics after installation:

Great, before fitting have sth available to cut them a little bit, in case the car is raised too much. These are the ones I ordered (unfortunately 30mm). Just make sure you find someone to fit them without removing everything back there. You will need the special vag spring compressor tool.

You can mail them, they speak english. The total cost plus shipping was about 45 euros. They offer lower heights if you wish. The good think is that they are made of rubber and it will make your rear ''softer''. I can give you the dimensions of what I had ordered so that you can build it yourself, maybe out of teflon. Th rear was fantastic for offroad use. I now have to cut them and refit sometime...

The weitec spacers is one option but I have not tried it. What I did was to buy these spacers from here http://sibreztech.ru/index.php?productID=5087 . They send worldwide. I bought the 30mm ones but the car was raised by more than 50mm(!!!!). The result was that the rear absorbers were banging on their stops, creating an awful noise. I have now removed the spacers. Maybe 10-15mm would have been the best solution. If you can construct them I can send you dimensions. But still you will have to remove the rear springs which is a difficult job if you dont have the original vag removal tool.