Jevpls
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Posts posted by Jevpls
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19 hours ago, Wino said:
It's beyond quite a lot of people's minds, but that doesn't mean it's wrong.
It doesn't mean it's right either.
The one and the only one reason to act that way I've heard is - car's back may become unstable, tyres may loose grip and all that may lead to an accident. Actually it's highly unlikely if you don't drive like a maniac. Driving in a large puddle or thick snow with nice rear tyres won't do much good if you are already screwed because of poor front tyres.
I usually change front tyres to rear (and otherwise) each year, so they wear evenly and there's no point of arguing which ones should be where.
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In this forum many people will say that the best tyres go to the rear. It's beyond my mind, why should I do that way but I usually try to put the best tyres on the front axle. Why? For the front drive car the front axle needs the best grip and best tyres for braking (you know that front brakes do the most of job). If you are planning to drive in a snow, just in case, then definetely best tyres go to the front.
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I see that I have previosly responded to this thread with some weird text...
I've noticed that my car increases revs to ~1k in 3 cases:
1) hot weather (with AC on - needs extra power for it). If you turn AC off, the revs should decrease (not immediately, though);
2) cold weather - while engine is cold, it's normal thing. Usually goes to normal after some warming up.
3) DPF regeneration on.
So, in hot weather try to avoid AC in a test drive and watch revs then. In cold weather after certain warm up revs should be in the normal range. DPF thing - well, until it's finished.
At least for my car these high revs are common thing in certain situations.
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Thanks! That picture is quite nice one.
At first I thought that there is a leak in the connection place (rubber hose & metal pipe). Seems like it's not the case. Then it seemed to be that there might be a leak between the filter tank and the cover. I even retightened the bolts - didn't help.
Finally there was idea that maybe one of the hoses have some kind of crack or so. I took my car to a garage for some brake work and they took a look here as well. According to their story, the top one is leaky (yellow one if I understood them right).
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I agree that it shouldn't be DPF related.
Must be scanned. Otherwise it will be just a guess.
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A friend told me just to remove the end of the hose (if the length of it is sufficient) because of it getting old and hard.
I'm willing to start with the ones providing the fuel from the tank. How do I determine which ones are that?
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Hey,
Recently I changed my fuel filter. The last one was like 2 years old and somehow my car started to act way nicer than before. Previously there was some unstable idle and some stalling from time to time. Not anymore. But that's the good thing about that.
The bad thing is there is some fuel leak. My fuel filter is UFI type (take a look below. I didn't make a picture of mine but this something like that, taken from the Internet). The fuel collects on the fuel filter cover and I assume that one of the hoses is loose and it might got that during the filter change (you know, I had to move it a bit). Any ideas what to do? Should I change these clamps just in case? What about air in the fuel system then (I have no VCDS)? Maybe I can change the clamps only for the hoses that supply the fuel from the tank to the filter (by the way, how do I know which ones are they?) because they are most likely to be the ones?
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On 09/10/2019 at 12:20, CWARD said:
Hopefully it’s fixed your problem but if not get some 5kg dehumidifier bags in the car to absorb the moisture in the air. My mk2 Octavia was a joke and despite ac working and pollen filter renewed it would take ages to demist and worse still ice on the inside of the windscreen when the temperatures dropped.
Probably it depends on your driving habits. If your daily trip is some 5 km to work and back then you won't get much effect from AC.
In wintertime it's rather easy to get much water in car. Snow that's attached to the boots - you get quite a lot of that and it won't disappear so easy and fast (at least it happens in my country, snow here is a common thing in winter). Sometimes I have longer journeys (2-3 h) and then I see the effect from AC. In the very end all the windows are dry and everything seems to be fine.
I change pollen filter once per year.
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58 minutes ago, Wino said:
I have no idea about the origin of the stats but I find it very easy to believe.
It's as simple as "Do you want to have less chance of having an accident? If so, put the best two tyres on the rear".
So, basically it's just a belief that's better?
Despite the fact you find it so easy to believe, I don't find much logic in that and I wouldn't give such advice to a friend. I don't know anyone who would act like that, too.
Anyway, probably you won't change your mind, I won't too.
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28 minutes ago, Wino said:
The accident stats show that loss of grip on the rear tyres causes more accidents than on the front. That's real George, not unreal.
I really find it hard to believe. Could be some local thing like driving with summer tyres in winter but otherwise?
Can you provide some link to that statistics? I'm really curious.
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On 02/10/2019 at 22:07, Anddenton said:
Generally speaking the best tyres should go on the back as you don't want the back end breaking away in slippery conditions.
I disagree. For FWD car it is important to have better tyres on the front axle.
I have had quite a lot of situations on some wet gravel roads or in snow when it's hard to get car in motion but the last time when car's back started acting on it's own was like 10 years ago driving way too fast on some gravel road and I don't think that better tyres would be much help in that situation.
Does your laws allow to put different tyres on one axle? In Latvia that's not allowed.
And yeah, here you see the disadvantage of large rim size.
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11 minutes ago, langers2k said:
It makes me think something isn't completely happy in your car.
Could be so if the DPF regens happens way to often. Might be way too much fuel injected or so.
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I've got 2.0 TDI and might be not your case but I had a problem when I tried to buy discs as well. Could be 280, or 288 or 312 (if I remember correctly). And all could be possible according to the VIN...
In the end the seller suggested me to buy 288 (I think) and they fitted well.
So, the conclusion is that - you might not know for sure. What do you do? I guess that you might remove the tyre and measure the size of the disc. As it's hard to measure the diameter, try to measure the circumference.
It's calculated as 2 * pi * R where pi = 3,14 and R = half of the diameter.
in case of 280 = 87,9 cm.
in case of 288 = 90,4 cm.
The difference is large enough to find out the size if measuring is done properly.
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People usually change the failed ones, especially because they are rather expensive.
AFAIK, there is no need to change them in a set , so if the garage refuses to do that - you shouldn't blame them for that.
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On 23/07/2018 at 18:16, drw8 said:
Forgot I had carista, so used that to scan. It found no faults. So took it over to the shell garage to fill up with some super unleaded and it didn't stutter once... With more use I guess we'll see if it comes back.
Carista won't be much help in such case. It might show the faults if there are any on the dashboard. There might be more in the history but not shown - Carista won't show them.
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Yeah, warped discs could be the cause. I've had similar problem and the first thing I did was re-balancing the tyres. Didn't help at all. When it became more annoying (especially while braking) I suspected the discs and it was the cause.
Actually the only way (at least I think so) to check this is to change the discs.
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Well, it's a petrol car with a 5 speed gearbox. I've driven 1,6 Octavia (MPI, this might be FSI) and ~100 or 105 kph it was already like 3500 rpm.
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15 hours ago, p1ckle said:
Accidentally posted this in the wrong section so I'll try again..
Hi,
I know this has been posted before with good explanation of the fix, but the good old unplug the clip under the seat method hasn't worked - mainly because I can't seem to find said magical clip and I haven't been able to get to a Skoda garage or find someone with VCDS yet..
Seatbelt warning bing bong seems to sound randomly, it's the '08 Octavia L&K estate I've got, the seat is electric and I'm a little worried about just unclipping things, I can't even see the clip with the blue cables that's referred to in previous posts.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thank you 🙂
Really randomly?
There's something similar with my father's '07 Octavia but it's not randomly. It happens where you lean forward (even a bit) or hit a speedbump or so. Belt gets some tension and it beeps.
About the solution. Sorry - he doesn't care much about that
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Yes, what kind of scanning did you use?
I've heard that only VCDS helps. Some kind of small OBD devices with Carista (and similar) are said to be no use at all in airbag case.
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Sorry, I don't know anyone with that equipment 😞
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1.9 is certainly not CR but might be PD.
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Hey,
Summer has come and I managed to find out that the AC was working poorly. Only a bit cool air even after a long drive. Went to some mobile AC maintenance tent near the shopping mall to refill the gas/liquid (whatever required).
The guy said he checked everything for leaks - so far fine. Then he filled whatever needed to be filled but he said - AC system didn't want to start on idle and it started only after some while. That was a bit suspicious.
Now I feel a little difference but not much. Any ideas what could be the fault?
The guy suggested that some sensor might be to blame. Let's say, its dusty or malfunctioning for other reasons and it's getting wrong temperature or so.
Any ideas? Can this be the thing I can check myself or is this the problem to be solved in the proper garage only?
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It's possible that you get some warnings after battery change (power steering or similar) but they should disappear rather quickly.
But this gauge thing sounds weird.
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3 hours ago, Golf-Fiend said:
Just to add my revs never rose with AC on or off in hot or cold weather. They were always a very steady 850rpm until I had issues.
Strange, I've seen such behavior for years even if everything else was fine.
I have 2.0 TDI CR engine, though. Your's is PD.
New front tyres and tyres rotation
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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And how better tyres on the rear axle helps in this case?