Jevpls
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Posts posted by Jevpls
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When you close the car with the key by pressing the button, it closes itself. If you hold the button for a second or so then the windows get closed as well. Try it. Maybe you've done that (but in that case you should have seen it happening).
Once a strange thing happened to me. I was driving when all the windows opened and the car closed itself. I closed the windows and tried to unlock the car. It locked itself again. I turned off the ignition and it has never happened again (3 years have gone so far) but anyway I'm afraid to leave the key in the ignition while I'm outside the car
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Might be connected to damaged insulation layer of some wiring that in wet time might start behaving odd.
I've heard about some cases when in wet time it's not possible to start the car or something starts going terribly wrong etc. In this case there might be some sensor involved that sends wrong signal - for example, the car might think that it's -30 outside and it needs higher rpm.
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I've seen that idle in 3 cases:
1) DPF regeneration but it shouldn't happen that often without any other warnings;
2) cold weather (until it heats). Highly unbelievable this time of year;
3) hot weather (works hard to help the aircon).
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2 hours ago, fabatron said:
Good to know about the regen, I thought the yellow DPF light comes on during a regen but having looked in the manual this is only if theres an issue with the DPF (blocked etc). I'll change the fuel filter and see if this sorts it. Thanks.
As you said, DPF light comes on only when the filter is rather full and needs to be cleaned soon.
In a regular regeneration there won't be any lights. There are some signs to see that the regeneration is going on or has been finished though:
1) idle rpm is ~1k (usually about 780 rpm). Note: this happens also in rather cold weather (warming up the car) or in quite high temperatures as well (probably because of aircon).
2) probably you won't notice the first one while driving. Then if the fuel consumption data is on, you might see significant increase (for example, it might be 4l/100 km while driving in certain speed but somehow it goes up to 5l /100 km.);
3) after a regeneration you might feel the smell of burnt something and the fan issue.
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Probably it's not that easy to say without looking at it.
Even the dealer wasn't sure whether I needed LUK or Sachs and only after removal it was 100% sure.
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215bhp 492nm stage 1 remap.
That torque seems to be rather high. Does the 1st stage offer that much from the starting 350 Nm?
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For my 2,0 TDI I never fill the filter with oil and nothing bad has happened.
Maybe it's different for petrol versions but somehow I don't believe in that.
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Gone in 10k? They should have lasted for longer time, I guess. Maybe the whole rear brake system is rusty and therefore pads don't go off the discs? Have you checked whether rear discs become hot?
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On 2017.06.30. at 18:13, CookieMonster87 said:
I have a 2.0 TDI vRS CR 170.
I never go of that shift change advisor and turn them off where possible!
Oh, just saw the title - that car couldn't have other engine
By the way, yesterday I was a passenger in my colleagues car. 1.6 TDI. Well, at 70 kph he managed to get into 6th. If we don't talk about possible future problems, even the travelling wasn't fun - the car sounded weird and vibrated more than I wanted. The the speed dropped a bit and he was driving a bit more than idle rpm...
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11 hours ago, FatblokeVRS said:
Looks like quite a big lip on the outer edge. Tap it hard all the way round with a hammer and the rusty lip will probably come off.
Be careful with that. Brake discs usually are made from cast iron - a material that is rather brittle.
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Usually I try to keep from 1500 to 2500 rpm (except fast accelerating and driving in unsteady traffic - for example, town). For longer cruising I try to drive at ~2k rpm.
My opinion is that ~70 mph is the right speed to start using the 6th gear. That's for 2.0 TDI. Topic creator hasn't said what engine he's got but from the description it seems to be the same.
Many people think that driving at low rpm (even a bit more than idle :D) is the right way to do because "diesels are meant to be driven that way". That dumb gear switch adviser on display makes everything even worse. The result is plenty of problems...
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My 2.0 TDI had 10mm hex (or torx? Probably hex).
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5 hours ago, justin82 said:
Could there be a bedding in period after a remap?? I've ordered some sparkplugs and just took it for a run on the motorway to see where the problem exactly kicks in and it was definitely only occasional this time around. Last night was consistent .
Look at my post above. My remap guy said that there might some weird things for like the first 200km or so. As I said previously, nothing bad occured but if he said so then there might be some cases.
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Might not be the case but I've heard that after a remap car might act a bit weird until it gets used to the new conditions. Probably most of the car owners won't feel any difference (I didn't feel anything wrong after my remap, except the additional power) but yours might be the one. Who knows...
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If you got Maxidot then you might disable sensor's sound there.
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I think that there is no point of installing LPG on FSI engine.
AFAIK these direct injection engines need so called 6th generation LPG systems that are rather expensive. The think you talk about might be called the 5th generation - something between the 4th and the 6th. There are designed some systems for the most popular engines and this might be one.
But anyway - even if it's cheaper than the 6th generation, it's still an expensive one. Unless you drive quite a lot, you shouldn't do the conversion.
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On 2017.04.3. at 19:22, Awayoffski said:
Winter diesel was in filling stations end of last year to now so maybe you will see some change now.
Winter diesel won't make much difference. Maybe a little bit. This isn't the case.
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20 hours ago, therev said:
i have seen no warning light as of yet what is the warning light and is it warning of a regen??
Not exactly. It shows that your DPF is way to full to continue with an automatic regeneration. You must drive at at least 60 km/h with a ~constant speed at 2-2,5k rpm for some time until the warning disappears. If you ignore it then you will get another warnings, limp mode and the need for forced regeneration (can't do it without VCDS software). You better don't go that far.
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Must have been the DPF.
Seems like it has succeded to finish the regeneration and that's why it's back to normal.
And the running fan is a usual thing to see after the regeneration.
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DPF regeneration happens when you are driving. When you stop at the traffic lights, there is ~1k rpm to keep higher temperature. When you start driving then the regeneration goes on.
After a trip you see an unfinished DPF regeneration (you can't finish it while not driving).
Might be that your regeneration starts but finishes only partly and therefore happens often. Might be crappy DPF sensor... the thing that makes everything a bit unclear - why haven't you seen a DPF warning? Or have you?
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Does your car has got DPF (particle filter)? If it's regeneration has started but haven't been finished then it might keep rpm around 1k.
Sure, I don't know how often have you driven during these 3 weeks and how long have your trips been. If quite a lot and for high mileage then this might not be the case.
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May I ask you - if your EGR has been mapped out, why do you wish to remove/clean it?
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I'll copy the text that I have said once in a different topic:
Just heard a story from a guy who had this oil consumption problem (not on Skoda, though). He went to a dealer and he suggested him to drive harder (the car had automatic transmission that used to choose low rpm). He didn't believe much in that but as the alternative was rather expensive engine repair, he decided to have a try. For some time he switched to manual gear change and after ~2k km he managed to have no oil consumption at all.
Basically if you choose a 2,0 TSI engine then you should't drive it like a 1,4 MPI.
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10 hours ago, lDanl said:
Are they safe to use? As in will they damage the bcm in the car like an unharnessed hid kit?
Also do led headlights needs programming or just a straight fit?
As far as I know, they need different optics. If you just replace your existing halogens with those, other drivers might not be happy...
WINDOWS CLOSE THEMSELVES AFTER SOME TIME?
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted · Edited by Jevpls
spelling mistake
I don't remember exactly but it was when I was about to park the car. Maybe the car wasn't running but the engine wasn't stopped.
Weird things happen