dm222

Had this problem only on hot weather after exposed to the sun for a long time, it was the N80 valve. It took years to figure out what it was :S

From reading your thread I believe you changed the weight because you had a leak causing it to become harder... Once you changed the weight, it antecipated the end of it

Wich is the part number of the connector? Buy one at ebay with some wire left, most of them are there. and then crimp the wires. I did that to wire of my starter solenoid and with power steering main wires. Choose heatshrink crimps so they are water proof and last longer.

bleed the system

Yes I raised the front and checked that, there is no play, it's strange, only when using the steering wheel. Also the wheels repond immediatly when I move the steering wheel, Even if I move 1mm or 2mm the wheels respond so there is no play at all, but makes that noise

So today I went to a self service garage... Same oil since december and still has air in it! It was bleeded twice since, and again today, so the thirth time in video. I don't have leaks... at least visible and the oil level doesnt drop. Also it makes a noise 10s, 20s etc... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bN_KjOriQrw The inner tie rod doesn't look good too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQcy1mcbSN8 I'm looking for a used rack right now. Sorry about this big topic, I hope someone could learn something from it, I know I did, and still learning

The only way I can see it, it's maybe because a manufacture problem, whatever he had it's the same thing I have, and he didn't changed anything, no new tyres, no battery, nothing.

From the looks of it I think the dents, it has many, the biggest two at 20s and another at 33s, may catch that :( and if it catches it will probably blow a fuse or something worse, probably not a good idea to install it.

I'm very sorry about spamming this again, but meanwhile, the person with the VW Polo I mentioned above answered to the PM I sent and I have reasons to believe this issue is because it was installed a new pump instead of a used one, he says he also fitted a new pump started to go normal after 10.000KMs and now it's normal, he thinks it needed mileage , his symptoms were exactly like mine. Absolutly all of it!! I was thinking of trying a new pump, a used unit from uk ebay because parts are a lot cheaper there, so I bought one, but the item arrived this way, apparently it was damaged during the shipping, it's ok to install it like this?

my idea is remove all the oil from the pump, put new oil, remove return hose, keep turning the steering and refilling until the 2l are gone.

So if to take the air out it's with the engine off it's because the fluid moves....

I think it will force fluid out.

Already did that, I was wondering if there is best way, because that way some dirt may stay in the bottom. I'm talking about raising the front wheels so the steering can be turned freely and then turn it full lock both sides

Hello, Long story short, I wan't to completely bleed my power steering. What is the best way to completely flush the power steering fluid to remove all dirt that may have got inside? I'm thinking about removing the return line and turn the steering completely to both sides multiple times with engine turned off. I have 2l of oil here. Thank you!

I did 4,9L/100 (58mpg) in a 20km trip last week. My last year consuption was 34MPG :S Mine is a 2008 BXW code 1.4 16V 85HP

If you have easy acess, check if there is a part number writen at it, I think there is. There If not try the little paper.

He only has a dent too, if you look at the pics at page 3. I think that would be enough to cause that.

So you mixed up the bolts, almost sure. If so, you need a new rack :(

No, it should be light even with the engine turned off, only stiff at the ends like 5 cm before reaching the end. Mine gets progressively a little stiffer if I move like ten times from lock to lock with raised wheels and engine turned off, although I have unsolved power steering issues so doesn't know if that is normal. In your case everything points to the rack, any intervention done recently? http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/368878-no-power-steering-after-gearbox-is-put-in/

They are not interchargeable unless you also change the rack and sensor. regarding the topic, just find out the one you have and buy one on ebay for less than 50£ regarding the two trw pumps with different part numbers, I think, not sure, that TRW made a replament for koyo pumps (JER112)

Will leave this here, it's a manual how the system works, it's in spanish http://es.slideshare.net/jcarrey/087-servodireccion-electrohidraulicapdf

You can check the voltage of terminal 15 (one of the smaller wires that goes to ignition) with vcds (004.04). If there is a problem at one of the other two smaller wires that would cause an error because they are synconized, when one raises voltage the other drops, the value is the difference between the two... when one of them is out of the params then the diference between the two is different than the expected causing an error. The big wires, you can check also with vcds parameter 001.1. If the problem is in the bigger wires you can order new wires and replace them: 6Y0998010 wires + connector 1K0971955.

Already bought that one

Hi, What tape do you use in the engine wiring loom? I used a cheap one a month ago and it's getting off... Now I bought this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00004WCCP?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Is this electrical tape safe to use in the engine bay on the wiring loom (not close to the engine)? I have it here... in the box says 20m x 19mm x 0,215mm It's rated for -18ºC to 105ºC The reviews are good, it seems really thick and strong and it has flame retardant. Thank you!