briscaF1
-
Posts
261 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by briscaF1
-
-
Thanks for the information - that's great.
Can you tell me what the circled arrow means? Does that mean to push this tab to the left to get it to pop off to access the screw?
I've got a trim removal kit - can you recommend the best tool / way of getting this off or does it just come off easily once the screw is out ?
Also, what is the other circled item, please?
-
Hello,
I'd like to remove the B pillar trim on my 2017 combi as there is a rattle coming from behind it that is doing my head in. It's more of a knock than a rattle, to be fair, and it only does it when the ambient is warm. The sound is at about headrest level and it didn't go away when I locked out the belt inertia stop. I wondered if there it was the metal loop that the best passes through that is contacting with the pillar somehow.
I'm more than a bit annoyed with rattles on this car, to be honest - my Mrs' 2014 car has done 50k with no rattles at all yet mine (which was bought on the strength of the build of hers) has got a rattle from the dash on the drivers' side which seems to be active when the outside temp is around 7-12 deg C (which goes off if the internal temp goes higher/I apply pressure to the dash from the flat side that is normally covered by the closed door) and then this other knocking from the pillar that appears at around 13 deg or higher! Of course, I bought the car in November when it was cold and there were no rattles or knocks on the test drive I had. The car has also been back to the dealer as there's another knock that comes from what sounds like the base of the passenger side B pillar that only occurs when going over rough road surfaces (which is anywhere these days) when it's very wet (!) They didn't find anything, unsurprisingly, and had a pry bar in the suspension but found nothing, too - in fact, the guy said, "If this car was MOT'd tomorrow, it'd fly through."
Does anyone have any experience of doing this and/or a guide for doing this and/or a picture of what is behind the pillar?
Any help is appreciated.
Cheers.
-
Checked ours- 2014 and 2017 cars. Both look ok
-
1
-
-
Shame to hear about the accident recovery incidents. Just for balance, my Focus was written off last year after someone hit me head on but the damage was not dissimilar to what is shown here. Airbags deployed and driver side wing was pushed back slightly so drivers door clipped it.
Car was recovered from the scene while I went to hospital for a check up.
I rang the recovery company a few days later and they said that my stuff from the car had been bagged up and would be kept FOC for up to three months. I went to collect it about 6 weeks later with no hassles at all.
The police sorted the recovery so maybe that's why it was problem free ?
In terms of value, I found about 10 comparable vehicles on autoexpress and used this for evidence, citing that it would cost me the prices quoted minus 250 quid for haggling to replace. The insurance company's third and final offer came within 250 of what I wanted so guess I did well.
-
8 minutes ago, rum4mo said:
Well if you follow the charger instructions to the letter nothing bad will happen, though you might need to correct a couple of things then you next first drive that car.
If you follow Skoda's advice then all should be good as long as that charger is genuinely safe to be used when the battery remains connected, so maybe you need to work out if the Aldi supplied charger is safe to use "connected" and if so why are their playing safe in their instructions.
Edit:- what if anything does Skoda say in the owner's handbook about recovering from a "disconnected battery" situation? I'd think if that car has electro-hydraulic steering, that it is only the electric windows that need to be reset.
I've changed the battery on the '14 plate car before and nothing required resetting from memory, not even the radio code. The reference to the manual was for this MK2.
In this case, I presume it's ok to disconnect first.
The other car is a '17 plate SE (4 cyl TSI) with an EFB battery as it has stop/start. I want aware of this having electro hydraulic steering...
-
Hi,
I got a charger yesterday from Aldi (XS) suitable for all battery types (was £10 - hard to pass up at that price).
I wanted to top up the cars as they've been standing for some time or doing short journeys.
The charger manual suggests disconnecting the negative terminal and connecting directly to the battery terminals but the Skoda owners manual suggests that the negative doesn't need disconnecting for "low current chargers." I think this XS is 4A max.
Also, I've seen posts on here suggesting to connect to chassis ground and not the -ve terminal.
Anyone have a clarification? ( I guess the obvious thing to do is to follow the charger manual....)
-
You can make weak, medium or strong solutions with it.
White vinegar may also work.
I guess care needs to be taken to protect the paintwork and not destroy the rubber, too.
-
I've only just seen the op's photo after disabling my script blocker.
I just say that the TSI badge is horrendous!
The MK2 that I saw with a tsi badge looked tasteful and something like an OEM fit.
Do any other vag cats have genuine TSI badges that could have been fitted?
-
Soda crystals will kill moss no bother. I'm not sure about car paintwork and soda crystals but cleaned my, presumably, powder coated mouldy Weber BBQ the other day no trouble at all plus I use them for cleaning moss off patios/flags. On the packet, it only warned about contact with aluminium.
I did a quick search for problems of soda crystals and paintwork and didn't find anything good or bad but have a look yourself.
-
You say you've tested the stalk switch but how was this done? If you just tested resistance, it may not give the full picture.
I'm not familiar with the plausibility arrangement but it may involve two switches that can be checked for presence as well as being plausible. In this case, a reference voltage may be fed through each switch and then the output voltages (or currents) compared.
Might just be worth checking what other signals are supposed to be on the stalk connector as you may have lost a reference or ground.
Having said that, if the reference or ground is lost, I might expect a different fault code not I'm not sure how coarse the fault reporting is on these models.
Also, in my automotive experience, it could be the wiring or connections as this is generally the first port of call for problems that I experience but, then, I'm generally looking at new products that shouldn't have failed components.
-
Thanks for the replies.
Went out in the car on Wednesday when it was quite warm, certainly above 12degC.
Lots of squeaking for about 2 miles then nothing after a run along the dual carriageway. On the return trip, also quiet.
If it was a strut top, wouldn't it be all the time? Maybe not for a shock as this might warm up with deflection and quieten itself?
I could understand it doing it and going off when it's wet but this is a headscratcher.
I guess I'll squirt a few things one at a time to see what works.
-
Only 49k here. 1.2 TSI on a 14 plate
-
3 hours ago, Simoneale1973 said:
Have this on my 13 plate Greenline Estate.
It's been investigated by Skoda, and they've found nothing!! It seems worse after being stood for some time (as you said) and in lower temperatures!! anything over 9 or 10 degrees C and it rarely happens!
As you said, going over bumps (even slow speed speed-bumps), seem more pronounced on the extension of the suspension ie: going over a hum-back bridge at 30-40mph
I've very interested to find out what it is...
Interesting! Is not noticed it before but it's happened twice in the time that the car has been standing for 5-6 days. For me, it was about 13 Deg last time I went out in it. I go over a level crossing about a mile from home and it did it over this and a little more driving into town ~3 miles. Left the car for 40 mins and driving back home, almost no squeak at all. When I got home, I tried bouncing that corner of the car and heard nothing.
I wondered whether the strut top/bushes are drying out.
There are no bumps or knocks at the same time.
I'll try bouncing it before I go out in it next time.
If it is temperate related, maybe it's some rubber bushing that is less flexible when cold and a bit of mechanical flexing as you drive causes it to warm up and quieten down.....?
-
Hi,
I've asked about something related before but the behaviour has changed.
Our combi has a squeak when driving over bumps. It's worse when the car has been standing for a few days then goes away after about a couple of miles of driving.
Bushes drying out? I squirted silicon lube on them before (last year) but am now concerned it's something more fundamental. It's mot had been due but now deferred for 6 months.
-
When I changed (TSI engine), I had a choice of NGK or Bosch. I went with the Bosch as they were a lot cheaper and, to my mind, Bosch don't make rubbish plugs. They've been good so far.
-
Good question. I've wondered this, too. A MK2 car around the corner has a badge on it but our MK2 hasn't.
-
4 hours ago, edbostan said:
Drove over Europe last September in the Roomster using E10. It was a few Euros cheaper than E5 95 RON. No issues.
Was fuel economy affected? I imagine 1-2% is unlikely to get noticed too much, though....
-
Page 121 of the manual says that E10 is ok.
The Mk 2 Fabia manual also says that E10 is permitted.
From memory, all cars sold in the UK after either 2011 or 2012 were required to be able to use E10
-
1 hour ago, Rizzoed said:
Seems like fun!
One question. how'd you get the clock on the display?
Turn the stereo off?
-
How does the overrun charging work? Is the excitation coil of the alternator altered to obtain different output profiles?
-
There is a thread about this. Seek and ye shall find.
-
Discs here on a 17 plate 1.2 TSI 90 combi. Was surprised, though, as I don't think it stops any better than our 2014 86 TSI combi with drums.
-
I suspect the dial gauges are probably better if they are a decent make. My slider is very repeatable and as long as it's within 1 psi i'm not particularly bothered as it's not like I'm running a NASCAR.
-
1
-
-
Used one for years. I periodically check it vs digital gauges when tyres are inflated and it's always the same. Unlikely that different digital gauges/my gauge are all inaccurate to the same extent as the same time, don't you think?
-
1
-
Swing upgrade to DAB?
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
Posted
Hi,
I was looking at upgrading the Swing in our 2014 Mk 2 combi SE to something with DAB and an SD card slot/USB/BTooth. If possible, also hands-free.
I'm guessing that there are three levels of difficulty here:
Easy : finding something with SD-card slot and USB/Bluetooth.
Intermediate: DAB as a unit swap will be relatively easy but a new aerial will be required.
Difficult: Hands-free as this would require mics and steering wheel (but is there an easier option?)
Otherwise, I guess a Pure DAB Highway 400 radio for about £60 might be a reasonable option but this doesn't have hands-free, either.
Thanks for any suggestions.