briscaF1

22 February, 2020

I've got a Draper 'pen' pressure gauge - the metal sliding tube type.

22 February, 2020

Thanks for the clarification, chaps.

22 February, 2020

No probs.

I used to put 2.2 (31) or 2.4 (34) bar in depending on loading so 33 would have been ok.

I'll keep an eye on it. It might be just feel as my 2017 combi seems to have heavier steering and when I swap between cars, I notice it more.

21 February, 2020

3 minutes ago, TerFar said:

I understand. My experience is that it isn't consistent. Sometimes it seems to drop a huge amount, sometime just a little blip. This may be a Laggy temp gauge or the different core temperature when you start up.

It's good to know that it isn't consistent. I sort of expected that control of the flow out of the head would be more complicated these days (e.g. ECU controlled) - just wanted to make sure while the car was still in warranty.

21 February, 2020

3 hours ago, TerFar said:

To speed up engine warm up to reach thermal efficiency faster, initially, the coolant only circulates around the engine block. Then once the temperature reaches a trigger threshold, the remainder of the system comes into circulation too. At that point, the 'cooler' coolant starts to circulate with the hotter coolant, hence you see the drop on the thermometer. So what you see is normal.

Hi,

Yes, this was expected. What wasn't expected was the variance in it and whether that was normal.

Cheers

20 February, 2020

There is no TPMS on her car. I've never come out of the tyre place with incorrect tyre pressures before (the usual guy there sorted them out) and when they were checked the other day, they had 33 in which would be about right.

20 February, 2020

Just before Xmas I put some new tyres on my better half's 2014 TSI combi. They were Hankook K425s, just the same as what was on before. When I drove it back from the tyre place (which I've been using for years), I thought the steering felt a bit light but assumed it was the new tyres and that they'd sort themselves out.

I haven't driven the car much since then but did the other day and the steering was still very light, to the point that I was worried going into bends on a frosty morning as it felt like there was the little feedback when you're on ice although it stopped alright during a later brake check.

A mate of mine looked over the car as the MOT is soon and said it was all OK and checked the tyres because I'd mentioned it. He said they seemed to be OK but that there might be a bit of a ridge in the middle but he might have been imagining it because of me prompting him about it. I dropped the tyre pressure to 30 in the fronts and it seems better.

I asked my partner if she'd had any comments on the steering and she thought it was fine.

Anything else I ought to check?

Thanks in advance.

20 February, 2020

Hi all,

Just asking about the temperature gauge in my 2017 1.2 Tsi 4 cyl 16V.

In our older car, it just has a "cold" light which saves a lot of hassle and questions 😉

In this newer model, I've noticed that the gauge sometimes gets to about 2/3rds of the way towards 90 and then drops back before coming up again and settling at 90 deg C. This is over the space of 10s of seconds and I assumed it was due to the temp sensor being in the head and the thermostat opening (causing the fall back) before it all gets up to operating temp.

On other occasions, the temp gets up to 90 deg, then falls back to about 5/8ths of the way to 90 then comes back up again, again over 10s of seconds.

So, I would have thought that a simple thermostat would open at roughly the same temperature each time (like the wax/spring ones I used to change on my old Ford crossflow engines!) but I presume they are more sophisticated these days with the ECU controlling the thermostat and varying the temperature at which it opens?

Or, is the thermostat just really very variable / faulty ?

Thanks for any replies.

20 February, 2020

Hi @pab567

Is there an update for this? I asked the dealer to update it when I purchased the car in November so I'd be interested in knowing if they did...!

Thanks in advance if you can assist.

20 February, 2020

Update on this. Mate of mine did it for 20 quid. He said it wasn't much bother to be honest.

I'm guessing the driver side is different as it has an additional window switch so I cannot fix this one and use it for that side if it decides to stop working also ?

31 January, 2020

*Bump*

No suggestions on the rattle? It's driving me mad....

27 January, 2020

On 30/12/2019 at 18:21, AGFalco said:

1.2 TSI 4 Cylinder engines were built/on sale until September 2017.

They changed when WLTP came in in September 2017.

There was a change in VED/ Road Tax on 1st April 2017 though.

Good engine.

Thanks AG Falco

I was in a similar boat buying a July 2017 MK3.

I got the 4 cyl 1.2 which I was sort of pleased about as it seemed to me that a slightly larger 4 pot would be less stressed than a 1.0 3 pot.

When you say "good engine", I presume that you mean the 4 cyl 16V are generally reliable and problem free?

27 January, 2020

34 minutes ago, ettlz said:

The DBW pedal coupled to these engines in the Fabia Mk3 has an idle zone in about the first 5% of its travel, which can make it a bit difficult to judge the right pressure to get that moving-off sweet-spot. And then, as you lift the clutch pedal but before the biting point, the ECU for the 1.2 TSI likes to increase whatever gas you set with your right foot to about 1700rpm. This particular 'feature' of the powertrain is well-known around these parts.

There is a setting that alters the throttle pedal response between something like 'progressive over time' (the default) and 'direct linear'. However I don't think it affects the behaviours mentioned above.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I could understand if the car had DSG or some auto transmission but to have a "semi auto" throttle on a manual seems a bit odd.

I can picture the direct linear response but the progressive one is not so clear - does this provide more sensitivity "around where the throttle currently is" ?

27 January, 2020

I've got a '17 Fabia 3 SE estate with the 4 pot 16V TSI engine.

There are a couple of annoyances from owning it for a couple of months.

Dashboard rattle.

This is irritating that our '14 Fabia 2 estate doesn't rattle. A rattle occurs when the cabin has warmed up and I did think it was inside the dash (maybe it still is) but I've found that I can silence it by doing one of two things:
1. Pushing the dash from the gap between it and the door (inwards, towards the dash) or
2. Pressing gently on the lower, right hand corner of the perspex (the black surround on the clear section) covering the instrumnents.

I did think of spraying some silicone grease into the gap for the instrument surroud (or getting some film negative and sliding it into the gap) to see if that stopped it but didn't want the grease getting somewhere it shouldn't and I don't have any film negative! Has anyone had this rattle before and knows of a reliable, pain-free cure?

Throttle response:
I find the initial, no load throttle response really sensitive; when I give a bit of throttle before the clutch pedal is lifted, I find that it often ends up higher than what I want and nothing like the 8V TSI in our other car. I did have a meddle with OBD2 after I purchased it (just to check codes) and I seem to remember that in the Android tool I downloaded that there was a setting for the throttle on this car. Is this something that can be changed accordingly to owner preference or something?

Thanks in advance.

27 January, 2020

On 23/01/2020 at 19:20, UrbanPanzer said:

Fabia 1 is totaly different setup, the whole inner door panel needs drilling off.....on the Mk2 its just the speaker for access, the window mech unbolts to provide access as well "if" you need it.

If your handy with tools, the job can be done in 2 hours max, and thats being generous to be honest.

Where in the UK are you ? if your local, I would happily assist with it.

Heres a piccy showing the speaker and loom removed, and what it looks like back together.

Thanks for the reply. Now I've seen inside the door, it doesn't seem too bad. My mate was moaning about all the clips breaking off etc but, if it's just the speaker, this doesn't seem so bad. Are there a lot of clips on the Mk2?

I'll take another look at the weekend (earliest opportunity) to see what is involved and check the driver's side to see how bad that is as I might need to get two harnesses.

Thanks very much for the offer of assistance - if you're in Derbyshire, I'm not that far away (near Stafford) so maybe I could get over to you at some point if required?

23 January, 2020

It was for an SE model

10 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

Depends on equipment fitted as to cost.

23 January, 2020

5 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Amount corrected inline.

Now try multiplying that by 2_000_000 cars per year for say 10 years.

I get the economics of it alright and maybe VW got lucky and all the harness failures occur outside of the warranty period as those "0.1p savings" would be wiped out swiftly otherwise.

You're right about it being false economy, Urbanpanzer, but I just don't fancy disassembling the door/drinking rivets out etc. Friend of mine had his Fabia 1 door apart and said it was a pig of a job but maybe three mk 2 is easier?

22 January, 2020

My local dealer quoted £70 for this harness.

22 January, 2020

Hi all,

Seems this problem isn't confined to the Fabia - a friend of mine spent some hours the other day sorting out his aunt's 2009 Golf Plus - same issue. Some hero in the VW electrical department got a promotion for saving 0.001p per car with this door harness design?

Moaning aside, does anyone have an electrical schematic for the Fabia 2 / yr model 2014? This would be for the doors and interconnections to the door pillar.

Also, does anyone know what the connector make/type is? I might be able to repair the wire by inserting a new piece of wire where the others have broken - solder and heat shrink one end (which, hopefully, I can push into the door a little) and then new crimps on the wires at the connector end. Has anyone had any success with this approach?

Thanks in advance.

23 December, 2019

Been quoted £69.01 for a replacement harness but I think this extends to inside the entire door.

23 December, 2019

Do you know a part number for it?

23 December, 2019

Thanks for the pointer to the door wiring. Doesn't look too healthy, does it? Shame as I was hoping it would be the fuse.

The wiring is quite tight. Does this involve a door off to resolve or is it possible to get the door side rubber boot off? Is there a connector behind it ? I had a go but the boot didn't seem to want to come off easily at all.

I guess I'd better check the driver's side while I'm at it.

Does this also affect MK3 Fabias?

22 December, 2019

Help required, please. Car is a '14 plate combi.

Noticed that the passenger side window has stopped working tonight. It doesn't work from the passenger door switch or the driver's door switch. The driver's side window is ok.

Is this on its own fuse or is the problem more serious?

Any help with diagnosis procedure welcome.

Thanks in advance

27 November, 2019

Hi,

I have this same problem - I have reset the service indicator after a recent oil change but keep getting the inspection symbol now.

Is it not possible to reset this via the dashboard etc?

If not, can it be done with a standard OBD2 interface ?

Thanks

26 November, 2019

If not the 16V, is it the 8V that suffers from the valve problem or a different TSI?

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