ObedP

Hello eveyone. Question: Why the radiator fan kicks in as soon as I start the engine?

lol you're right! I will check. Let you know.

Thanks for the answers. Then I think I have a stuck open thermostat, cause I installed the new temp sensor and have been driving the car for a couple of days, but the needle stayed down, below the 70C. The hose between the radiator and the thermostat is pretty hot, so I thought the temp sensor was faulty. But yesterday the day was pretty hot, and finally I saw the needle going a little bit up, would say like 75C. Normal operation would put the needle at 90C always?

Hello everybody. Hoping your skodas are behaving fine. This is what happened to me: I was driving my felicia when I noticed the temp gauge went high to the top, then it went down and never worked again. I was returning from fixing a leak I had in one hose, the one beneath the radiator. I replaced it with a new one, and checked all the other connections. Now I didn't have any leaks, great! But then it happened what I just described above. The thing is that I decided to purchase again the temp sensor, tested before installing it and the temp gauge responded accordingly. But now i'm afraid that the new temp sensor will be damaged if there is a fault in the cooling system, so I have not installed it yet until be sure. How can I know if the thermostat is not stuck closed or open, or the water pump is working? Thank you for your time.

Yeah but as I didn't know, I didn't first attached the hoses. I just started to mount the whole thing by turning it altogether!! That's why I am comenting this just in case someone is making the same mistake. Then I realized I had first to connect the hoses to keep the flange in that fixed position, then start to turn the union nut. Sorry if I didn't explain it clear at first. My english vocabulary fails me often.

Thank you Ricardo. I will check that today and get back to you. Thanks for the tips.

But according to this diagram, there is chances of hitting the wall of the tank with the float arm if it rotates along with the cap while refitting it. That's why Haines manual says that there is risk of bending the float arm. The float (flange) must stay fixed in the correct position, not moving at all, while refitting the union nut. If not, you will hit the closest wall of the tank and bend the arm. It happened to me. Twice. Then I realized.

Sorry, tried to load a picture, but made a mistake. now the system doesn't allow to delete this post.

Hello. So the tachometer on my Felicia is not working. I tried reading some posts here about this issue but didn't understand exactly why the rpm gauge is not woking. Can someone please explain where do I have to look, what to check? The temp gauge is working, the speedometer also and fuel gauge as well. Any light?

Now that I think about it, if someone has messed with the fuel sender and puts it back without proper installation procedures, like turning the fuel sender cap but not preventing the center part not to spin along, the float arm will hit some part of the tank and will be twisted inside, so it will not float, but stay fixed in one position. That was part of my problem.

Thank you sir!! I managed to get my fuel gauge back to work. Fixed the fuel sender and the float (it was twisted). Then replaced one blown resistor I had thanks to the guide Ricardo provided me with, and finally I had to take apart the fuel gauge and I discovered it was stuck at the middle of the way. Manually forced it to go to the top and now it works fine, even lighting the yellow light that warns of low fuel level! But as Ricardo just said, it takes a while to show the true quantity of the fuel in the tank.

Ok, but water will cause same behavior no matter fuse box location. Water was causing some short. After having it dry, problem solved.

Helo. I don't know if you were able to find the reason of your dashboard flickering lights, but it happened to me recently and it was caused by water which ran into the fuse box by a little hole I had under bonnet. So I had it welded and painted and that was the solution, of course after checking that the fuse boxed was undamaged.

Wow Ricardo, once again saving me. I really apreciate your help and how well you know about this stuff! Man!! I was working on the fuel sender 'cause I had not reading on the fuel gauge. The problem was that someone installed the fuel gauge sender wrongly. It was literally twisted around itself. So thanks to the documents you sent me, I could untwist it and get it back to its dimensions. But anyways the fuel sender just moves partially when I put gas. It goes up a little bit, and as the gas is running out, the gauge goes down a little bit but not all the way. I think I will create another topic with more details about this issue. Thanks!

Well, I live in Dominican Republic but I use to look at this site for buying parts: http://www.skodaparts.com/. They deliver to my country. I bought a spedometer cable which came fast and not that expensive, like 20 pounds or less. You only need paypal. Sorry if this is kind of advertising, only wanted to share my experience. Obed p.

Hello everybody. Hoping your Skodas are behaving good. As you can see in the posted image, I have a blown resistor. I had tow guys separately looking at it and both came to the same conclusion: aparently there is no way to know the resistor electrical properties in order to have it replaced. One suggested that if someone had the same dasboard, then that person can help me by letting me know which resistor is located there and its electrical properties. If some of you can help me or know which one goes there, please let know. Thanks guys. Obed P.

OK then, so far I've been doing some improvements to the car. I've changed the spark plugs and cables, removed all not-working cables that were liying around, changed the engine oil and filter, and the air filter. Next I will stop using water in the cooling system and switch to coolant, as previous owner was using water, something very common here in my country. The car works fine, too bad it wasn't well mantained before. I also need to check the transmission, as I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the bottom to disengage gears. It is difficult to select reverse gear. I read that if the clutch isn't disengaging correctly, it will make and ungly noise when changing gears and eventually will wear the pieces down. I saw on youtube some videos about adjusting the clutch cable so to disengage at a shorter distance. By the way, the clutch pedal feels kind of heavy to push, my feet hurts. Another thing: when I try to start the car early morning, it won't start right away. instead it starts then turns off. Try again like two more time and finally it starts fine, and also at anytime during the day after being driving it. The problem is each morning after the car has been sitting the whole night. So, questions: 1- Any suggestion about cleaning the cooling system before switching to coolant? 2- May be the starting issue be a problem with the fuel pump or filter? 3- Can I adjust the clutch cable myself? is there a way to make it more smooth? 4- How can I change the transmission oil on this Felicia? 5- How can I change the fuel filter, as I suspect it hasn't been changed since long ago? Looking forward to hear from you with your suggestions.

Ooooh my Gooodd!! That is a car that has been well treated, well-maintained. 21 years?? Can't believe it. That's my goal. I know I have a long way to run. We'll see. Thanks Ricardo for the hi-res pictures. I really apreciate that. This is really a comunity! I will keep you posted as I improve the car's condition. If I have more question I'll let you know. Thanks all of you.

:clap: :clap:

Ricardo, thank you for taking your time to answer. Yes, I will follow your advice about not rushing into buying parts before the car is looked by an expert. The engine is working fine. Motor oil was changed few months ago and it is clean and clear. I drove the car like 20 kilometers without problems, even selecting the fourth gear. Yes, as you said, it's like a miracle. Only the gas smell when I parked it. I'll keep you posted.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ap70tcal5riqr6e/Slide6.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3eynz7dy8mng6pl/Slide7.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/t81dynwr9e9y0xc/Slide8.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/clyp2dn6v9lar0z/Slide9.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8ac1e3n96yu2fi/Slide10.JPG?dl=0 The rest of the pictures, for your pleasure. Thank you guys. At least I will go to the shop knowing something before hand. I will be posting pictures as I make changes to the car.

Thanks for the replies! I wasn't expecting them so fast! How can I add more pictures, as the system tells me that I only can upload up to 2MB? I have 5 more pictures to shock Ricardo even more. But I apreciate comments like the one from Rustynuts: "Get a new set of HT leads, as those are shot". That's the spirit!! I know that the car is in bad condition, but I know that if I replace the parts in need of that, take away the useless cables liying around, and make some other improvements, the car can be in better working condition. Here in Dominican Republic we don't dump cars so easily. It was sold to me for a really low price. I knew what I was getting into. So how can I upload some other pictures?