FlexibleMouse

Update: Got in a decent run on a private road and got some good data. Car as it was in OP with the exception of GFB DV+. 0-60 in 6.3 1/4 mile in 14.8@98mph (30)2.8(40)3.6(50)5.0(60)6.3(70)8.1(80)10.0(90)12.1(100)15.3 (30-50)2.2(50-70)3.1(30-70)5.3 (40-60)2.7(60-80)3.7(60-100)9.0 (80-100)5.3

You need to remove the pipe between the supercharger and the turbo, then fiddle with the plugs to see if it is loose or damaged, bit fiddly but a 15 minute job at most.

I had a few problems with my map sensor because the car previously had a tuning box installed and the connector to the sensor was damaged. It still pops off occasionally but you might find it is the connector at fault not the sensor. (The one after the supercharger on the left side of the engine)

I recently had Brembo front brakes fitted, very happy.

Mine is still going strong at 45k, only issue is a failed led on the speedo needle

I will give it a try, but I have found that shifting into 2nd asap and flooring it seems to be the way to go. Every time I have tried to hang onto 1st longer it just spins the wheels.

Update: been practising the launch and now have the 0-30 down to 2.9-3.0 and 0-60 in 5.9-6.0. It's an absolute sod to launch properly, shift into 2nd asap and floor it. Using D mode with TCS on, using paddle for 1-2 shift.

I already tried manual and electronic too, had both lying around from my last car. The car doesn't react well to it, just get a tuning box instead. Basically it will go into limp mode very quick over stock boost, also the SC will not engage as much and the bypass valve will just open earlier.

I didn't think removing the heat shield would cause anything other than damage to the bonnet over time

I think I generally drive too aggressively for D but not aggressively enough for S. M is the obvious choice but that has negatives too, I had a bit of success trying paddles in D mode but the timeout is too short and reverts to D too quickly.

I'm glad it's not just me, it seems like D is great at slow economical driving but sucks if you want to get a bit of a move on. S is good for a race track but nothing else and M lets you decide how to drive, but the up/down on the stick is backwards and the paddles are not very easy to use (changing gear whilst turning). I've had the car nearly a year and still have never been 100 happy with the DSG

Yeah I know about that but I'm talking about pulling away normally at part throttle, the supercharger does not engage. I know the car idles higher in S and M but it just feels different when you pull away from a junction. To me it feels like the DSG keeps the clutches engaged more of the time in S and M, which makes sense if it is true but I haven't read anywhere that there is anything different between the modes at part throttle.

Ok so in D mode when driving and you brake to slow for any reason, then accelerate again I can feel the clutch re engage so the car seems to coast between brake application and throttle application even if there are a few seconds in between. But when I do the same in M or S mode it feels as if the clutches re engage immediately after you stop braking, I'm not sure if this is actually happening or if I am imagining things. Also pulling away in 1st gear in D mode feels different than pulling away in 1st gear in S or M. Is this really happening? Thanks guys

Torque pro monitors battery voltage

Just bedded them in while the roads were quiet, before and after (30 minutes later)

It was a right pain getting the right parts but I'm 99.9% sure they will fit. Went for Brembo discs and pads, having them fitted tomorrow.

Thanks George, so where does the 256mm come from? I found the parts by reg number and apparently they fit

It's a vRS, 1.4 twin charged

Hi guys, does anyone know the front disc specs? I picked up some 256mm Brembo discs today but apparently 288mm also fit. Can anyone help me figure this out?

I think 16 or 17 is normally the minimum

That's true enough, but you aren't going to be spinning the wheels at 60mph

Im not suggesting your figures are inaccurate for a moment. I'm simply saying that in general someone using the app could get a more precise time by using the OBD speed as long as the OBD has been verified to be correct or very close. The reason it will be more accurate is that the refresh rate of the OBD speed can be higher than that of the GPS (depending on the settings).

I've been using torque pro for 3 years now, I have some tips for your 0-60 runs. GPS is fairly good for timed runs, but to get the best accuracy you should turn it off and use the OBD speed. Provided you have checked the OBD vs GPS and verified your speedo is accurate. The OBD speed refreshes faster than the GPS so you can get a more accurate time. Also the Bhp figure requires that the vehicle mass is accurate, if you enter duff details you will get duff results.

The cave engine does not have a maf, it has 3 map sensors

It's a piston dv, they can leak boost but they aren't a vacuum leak unless the bolts have not been done up. Check the vacuum hoses to the boost controller, and the pipe from the Supercharger to the turbo are ok