Bertie90

I need to find someione with VCDS. I knew I should have bought one a while ago

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-valuation also, search on autotrader your exact car equivalent and get an idea from there. And yes of course depends on lots of factors but it gives you an idea which is what you're after

yes, when I press the AC button I can hear the tone of the engine change slightly but only at idle. I don't feel loss of power as such when driving. I think I will monitor it for now, and I'll see what Haynes says in the manual, if anything.

right ok, soo....? lol what do I do now?

I'm a novice when it comes to AC. Is that ECU controlled?

Update - Dropped it at the garage today, 10 min later they called back saying the AC is blowing cold air (it was a 1 digit reading) and the system is charged. They can't see anything obvious been advised to bring it in when not working. What are my next steps now?

also is it worth mentioning that I have one of these gauges? Never had the bottle and never inteded using it for that purpose I plugged it to the H line i think (only fits one or the other) and the pressure was all the way to the redline. I used it on other cars before to check the pressure in the AC system and when it recorded low it meant it needed recharging. I think... Also, does a pressurised system means it is re-charged? Or can a system be pressurised with no gas in it? I have booked it a t my local for £60. I have both kwik and ATS but I trust none due to bad experiences on both shops in the past. They were both in and out tyre/MOT jobs, came out with damaged/limp mode vehicle. Story for another day

It is cooling now but the fan goes up and down like every second and the display bars don't move but the fan speed changes. I'l book it in a garage to start with.

Does anyone know why my AC works intermittently? On the hottest day of the year it didn't turn on and I deemed it "empty". Today it has turned back on blowing very cold air but the fans were going up and down in speed constantly with cold air. Can anyone give me an idea where to start looking?

looks like the only thing you didn't change in the fuel system is the high pressure fuel pump.

Used it for my second car as well 🙂

gosh, I look at my cheap Pagid 5L bottle for £20 and think to myself. Is this horse pi55 ? I noticed an improvement since my fluid must have been 5 years old already.

no, you might get less NOx but not less soot....it doesn't matter to be honest. Also regarding MOTs, I know several people that have removed all of their emissions devices, their cars smoke like mtractors (none of this Darkside smoke free maps) and MOTs never even shown and advisory. I don't doubt there are people checking, but they know you would go elsewhere. bottom line is that device might be a cheaper solution then.

....which then reduces EGTs....

agreed, EGR reduces exhaust gas temperaturs before pumping them back in, in fact the EGR is fully shut when regen in progress to increase temperature.

+ remap + DPF delete

Interesting to see if anyone has bought and used one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/09-EGR-AGR-Valve-Simulator-Emulator-Plates-for-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-1-6-TDI-CR/183869312895?hash=item2acf770f7f:g:A9gAAOSwqPFdHF~4 it looks very interesting and a cheap solution if you're diy'ing.

I see, ok interesting device. I wonder if anyone on here used one of those before.

to put it in prospective, my EGR failed at 50k miles for various reasons, short journeys by the previous person (I bought it at 30k) the emissions update etc... This egr system is a bit complex and talks to a lot of other modules/systems which impacts limp mode. There is no simple fix apart from replacing with new, or removal all together + blanking off + remapp, then DPF removal etc etc. I would suggest starting a new topic, as many of us have lots of advice/opiniomns about it. And the actuator must have something to do with opening and closing a valve either to the intake or through the cooler, not sure as the EGR has a direct impact on the DPF. #complicated

the coil light has multiple meanings so by the sounds of it yours its a turbo/EGR issue wuch seams to be common on these cars. Thanks for sharing

as some of you helped, I have finished the rear brakes just the other day. Sticky + a very rusty cylinder. Since covid, we haven't used this car at all now. Life changed so much with working from home and I'm going to say it.... I don't think I need a diesel anymore. Honestly I filled this car up twice since end of march.

DOH!!!! rookie fail, I remember now I had to put the drum back. DOH DOH DOH

I don't know. I There's nothing else in the packaging, I didn't think these came without any other parts. Just open the package and install. I had my other half pressing the brake while o watched and the rubber sleeves come off a little when the piston is depressed. That doesn't look right

Hey people, I'm replacing the piston and when I went to start bleeding it brake fluid started to squirt from these rubber sleeves to the point that the rubber on both sides came off. I've done these type of rear shoes before, never happened like that What am I doing wrong?

what engine is it for?