Bertie90

I did buy one before with the same part number but the the PCB inside was different looking. Was struggling to find another used one.

I installed the passenger module in the drivers side and it works. What are the repercussions of that? For now I have 1 window that works. I noticed on eBay that there are more passenger modules available that driver's side. Wondering if I can get away with buying a passenger module now.

Very useful 👍 I did - and plus where pointed in the picture. Is that what you mean?

So just as a test I swapped modules from passenger to drivers side. The relay in the PCB is clicking like never before. @Wino I can't get to fix the capacitor on the PCB to get 12. I re-soldered as best as I could but still getting less than 1v.

I was going to say at this point, it got me thinking. How is the clone that I bought any different than carrista or Carly or obd11. Had it not said Ross tech on it and had a different interface than it would have been a different product. And yes Ross tech itself helps users activate and change codes on their vehicles for features that were not activated at a dealer. If anyone is wondering, I got a partial refund from the seller as I decided to keep it. I was not educated on the subject and thanks to this experience I have accelerated my knowledge on what is deamed as an original VCDS cable+license. When the time comes to sell it. I'll auction it for £1 on eBay and state exactly what it is. A Chinese ***** (it might be French just guessing)

Well that has confirmed it lol it does look very similar not gona lie. So not cheap Chinese **** but an expensive one haha

Actually.

Can't do the other side, I don't want to damage it

I don't think the cable is a clone. I think the license might be.

Yes I did. I use a MacBook Pro with windows installed on it and I just downloaded what was in the Ross tech website. Plugged it and worked fine. I don't use the laptop that came with it as its massive and heavy. The owner said he will take it back if I want to or give me a partial refund if I'm not happy, but to be honest I have already changed some options on both my Skodas and I can happily report I haven't "bricked" my cars. I agree with everyone here by the way, I'm not endorsing what I bought and what I did. To me so far, the only proof I have that is fake is Ross tech telling me so. The previous owner said he never had a problem and he also bought it second hand a while ago. Again, not endorsing not reccomending.

No but it has the picture of the ross tech cable and it says it's not a cheap chinese cable. I Mean the whole thing works fine....I just can't resell it and recover the money if I get rid of my vag cars

Can I check if I understand this right, the cable can be original, but the licence purchased is not hence why it says Unlimeted vin and hence why I have a whole laptop with it? lol Jokes on me...

No, i bought it with a laptop and everything. £230 ?

I see so it's more of a case that Hex-V2 doesn't come unlimeted unless you pay ross tech

I can see you have replied back on the ross tech forum, I can't post anything in there anymore as they blocked my priviledges. Where do I find the serial number of the cable sorry?

Can I post a picture with the About/Licence number and all that?

Seems that I haven't got much luck with things recently. This is another one of those things Bought a VCDS HEX-V2 cable with unlimited VINs from eBay (sacraladge) used and plugged it in, everything seemed to work fine, scanns, coding all good. I went on the ross tech to ask for some help with some coding and basically got told I bought a fake and my priviledges got removed so I can't even ask why? Could somone please let me know if that's true? At least I can start to get my money back and put a claim in if it's correct. Here are some pictures.

Could anyone advise what these codes mean? 1.6 petrol 2007 Roomster

I'm waiting for my VCDS to arrive. Perhaps it's the module itself which I find difficult to find used

It reads 11.3V

Yes, fuse 51, 52, 11, all been changed new. I will change the battery in the meter, but i did check a car battery to see if the meter was working.

So I took a reading from the passenger side. The + and - wires read 12v constantly and the window was working. I went to the driver side, and checked same wires, I had 0V. But I remember in the past they also had 12v. I went back to the passenger side. Window not working now (5min in) now the voltage is around 5/6V. Then less than 1min O voltage as well. Ignition is fully on. 0 voltage, but then the window works.

Sorry, of course makes sense. Fyi, this is the part from the passenger door.