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I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.

I've read that primer over rust converted rust is a bad idea, unstable surface , but probably better than not doing anything. Hycote diamond silver is a good match but the power red 50b for my astra was nota match. I went to paint shop. The base primer is coloured and gives depth to colour. I've got epoxy primer and going to seal it tomorrow. Should I rub down rest of sill to metal, I'm thinking not because the rust I found is creeping from direction of wheels towards centre of sill. I've found not rusted metal a little further in. Probably best not to disturb

It is regularly washed. I've had rear bumper off 2 years ago to rust proof hidden areas and wheel arches have been off numerous times. No rust. This rust was hidden under the factory paint and stone chip protection. As the sill protection is bubbly in appearance there was no tell tale signs. Discovered entirely accidentally when prepping sill. I bought a couple of Bolt Hamber products recently - Underbody and the clear stuff. 80 hydrate for chassis voids.

Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard over epoxy primer then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? If not how would you do it? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo taken I've rubbed down rust.

Just to finish off - the rivnuts are a success. I got 304 bolts metric M3 for speakers and M5 for rest of door. Wife took car out and said there is a noise 😔 😭 (me thinking there is a rivet head in void I didn't scoop out which is dancing around...) Turns out it was the box under passenger seat - I'd left licking wheel nut lose... Relief! Reminded me of this advert VW squeaky earring 1990 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DeKmf0YjZXqo&ved=2ahUKEwixt9yl2qWWAxWvcfEDHZJwK7cQwqsBegQIHBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Zpw6gChTxzSCHhW06QzL0 A tip - had an issue removing the blank next to door handle to release wire to door handle. There is a bolt accessible in edge of door. I'd loosened it, but it didn't look near enough to blank. It is important and must be slackened off alot of turns 6 to 8. If you lose bolt it drops into void. Hat boy Harvey useful video on YouTube. But no write up on passenger door. Also get 10 to 16mm bolt lengths. Any longer risks hitting glass / not necessary. I used silicone bead around neoprene seal.

Solved It's bolt at part 15 It touches the cap , part 3 but there is no entry into it. Needs loosening alot. If you drop it into door and retrieve it can't be put through the hole in the door. Needed.about.3.or 4 rotations to get part 3.out

Hatboy Harvey video deals with barrel lock on driver's side front door. I'm a bit stuck on removing the black cap next to door handle , part 3. I got part 2 cosmetic colour trim off. It is stopping me releasing Bowden cable and rest of window regulator carrier There is a bolt 15. Too large a head to remove from through door hole.i.dont.tji k it is connected? Any ideas appreciated. I don't want to use brute force yet

Routed mic behind top of drivers a pillar trim to the right of the sun visor. Cable jack went down A pillar passed fuse box and under steering wheel trim above pedals and found gap to rear of radio

Hello, I'm after some advice. Any alternatives to rivets? Window regulator repair in progress. The metal plate holding window regulator is riveted on to door. There are X10 7mm holes for metal plate/regulator to door attachment and X4 4mm holes for speakers. Rather than riveting are there any other options? I've seen rivnuts. However a size guide said a 5mm hole needs M3 rivnut not seen any smaller sizes like for 4mm diameter hole. I could probably put speaker on new metal plate with access to rear. Otherx10 holes 7mm hole will be blind/1 side access only. Suggestions appreciated. Camera rotate photo broken - I'm not working on upturned car 😂Thanks Ps Edit - reading around, looks like a few fabias suffering this failure. The motor is ok but the cable snapped in my case near top rear pulley.

I Got a spare cd autochanger that came with leather seats but no use in LE

Got a set of depo off eBay and then are very good, but this was for a fabia MK1 vrs (halogen) around £60 per unit

It's fixed. Useful info Abs sensor electrical connector 6E0973702 Front right wheel Connector unlocks when tab clicked up in one motion rather than squeeze. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0CQTLWH7B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3O6ITRM6FC8OR&psc=1 Used 18awg pink crimp connector

Taken off thrower, slight score mark present. The abs sensor has a raised black disc facing driveshaft like for a date mark, that has worn down. Abs sensor works with the wired connector. I think my pinning the electrical wires didn't get them 'fully home' Going for the crimp connectors and silicone and cover wires in heat shrink.

Strip connectors - strictly for diagnosis. I bought some crimp tube connectors in case. ABS Light back on after putting wheel back on and tightening wheel nut. I think new abs sensor is catching on the driveshaft dust cover again. I'll remove dust cover/thrower ring this time. There is something wrong here with this pattern part. A few mm too close to wheel bearing/hub. Stripping it down again...soul destroying. Photo B4 assembling with new thrower ring yesterday. All the teeth were clicked in and as flush as they can be.

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Brakes not binding. Wheel bearing is fine (2nd one, 45k 8 years on,). The original abs wiring connector was broken and becoming loose. It got some silicone to glue it together. I've got abs sensor out, wheel bearing magnetic ring looks fine. I've bought a wired abs connector and one without wiring and pinned the connector myself. Got 'electrical fault on circuit' , previous DTC was 'implausible' - some signal but dropping out. I've done this work with battery disconnected and reconnected cleared dtc codes etc I've removed the wiring and tried the wired connector. I used strip connector temp to check it all working, same error reoccurs. Just realised might be polarity dependent....and .....it is. It works when wires + and - reversed. Abs error gone, data received from front right wheel. Fingers x I'm not revisiting in a couple weeks

Should I leave the plastic dust ring out? I've fitted a 2nd one to the same driveshaft, it is in better condition than other one (teeth to click into driveshaft are all point same way, not warped - other wasn't bad though). The abs sensor is set back a few mm from metal ring of wheel bearing so I would expect any contact. I had to change hub previously, the wheel bearing was changed and the abs sensor (inter brand - not the cheapest one, but middle price). Had to take brake disc, carrier, caliper off and brake shield (luckily I changed this previously so bolts not seized). Having to drill out remains of abs sensor and avoid hitting wheel bearing magnetic ring, last one did come out, this is pinched well and truly. Thanks Alistair

I changed the driver's driveshaft due to split in the boot. Bought the plastic abs sensor ring protector. Had no issues for 3 weeks then ABS sensor intermittently erroring. Looks like the abs ring which was inserted correctly has rubbed the abs sensor. There is a black smudge (from abs sensor) on the plastic ring (may have been warped?) The plastic ring popped off after pulling out driveshaft in photo. Of course the old abs sensor is rust pinned in hole in hub. Been there 8 years. What if it happens again? Driveshaft is Borg beck bds1452 and I did other side with no issues 2 years ago. Opinions? Happened to anyone else? I had Traction Control light on twice but it was coming out roundabout or really wet road, but it felt that front right wheel was to blame.

Ok. I found the 6 speed gear oil G052157A2 (2 litres with postage £110) It was last changed 55k miles and 10 years ago. What mileage or time would you consider interval as worthwhile Pete? Thanks

Thanks I don't mind taking bumper off if everything fits. I changed condenser last summer which needed bumper off. I just hate doing a load of work to find it doesn't fit and then put it back together etc. Do you know if the same electrical connector on that adaptor to the horn is used elsewhere on the car. I could buy adaptor for a few £ and check it fits on a more accessible location like a sensor before bumper off job to do horn?

Hi again The fabia MK1 vrs has a 2 tone snail horn at front left behind bumper. The deep 400hz horn doesn't sound , only the 500hz high pitch horn. I checked the fuse 20 amp, it is okay. Wiring seems ok. I'm looking at aftermarket options which feature a 2 flat pin connection, not compatible with the OEM connector loom. Either a buy a new horn from Skoda parts for £50 and postage or go aftermarket £15 (both twin tone snail horns from Hella - which is what is on car already. I don't want to cut wires ideally. I've spotted an adapter wiring loom that has female flat pin connector at 1 end and the female OEM socket at other end. Anyone used anything like this or can recommend? The adaptor compatibility is vague, stating just Skoda. Are the wiring connectors on all Skodas the same? Aftermarket Hella horn link https://www.amazon.co.uk/HELLA-Trumpet-Horn-Frequency-Plug/dp/B001CC6WR0 Adaptor loom https://www.amazon.co.uk/Partuto-Adapter-Harness-Pigtail-Replacement/dp/B0DBVQD76V OEM horn - maybe fits https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/4fd951221c-fanfare-low-tone-skoda-46602.html Not an urgent job but I don't fancy removing bumper again to find something don't fit etc. Anything I've not considered appreciated. Ps the high tone is accessible from under tray but it is at back. The deep tone horn is at front ahead of low tone horn and deffo needs bumper off.

Thanks! A job for the weekend. The Borg and Beck driveshaft came with new spline bolts. I'll disconnect ball joint bracket like last time and see how I get on. Tracking seemed unaffected - the bolt holes on ball joint bracket are tight. If I disconnect the track rod end, although I'd not mess with the lock nut, it is under some tension which would be lost if undone. I got a new hub nut, it's only 60nm tightness with models fitted with air conditioning. I bought the abs protector ring because last time it was unmovable from the old driveshaft.

Correction been on Skoda parts and since I last checked a few days ago none of the gear oils are a positive match for the vrs MK1. Might have an old bottle of gear oil and its specification number. Surely others are using gear oil. What are you buying? Thanks

Hi Alasdair I've had a look on Skoda parts and there MIGHT be is a radial oil seal that meets the driveshaft. It is a different size to what I found on eBay. Another car ,a 307 (passenger driveshaft) had a seal and leaked gearbox oil when driveshaft moved for new strut replacement, didn't need a new oil seal. I think I can get away without replacing? I read there might be a snap ring and circlip, again depends on model??? Track rod ends were replaced last year along with ball joints, and with laser tracking at £70 I don't want to disturb wheel alignment. The driveshaft flange bolts are there like on other side. I count x6 spline bolts.

I'm thinking of changing the gear oil on my fabia. Previously I went to dealership which has gone bust (Hayselden Doncaster). I've been on skoda parts and they are recommending Castrol for 5 and 6 speed boxes which I tried previously and its cold start lubrication wasn't good. The gear oil has been replaced around 55k and car is now on 111k. It cost £65 for 2 litres about 10 years ago so it was expensive stuff. Worth changing? Thanks What are you good people using with this same gearbox?