bmbmdmb

Radio - no auto power off setting Starter probably is power hungry Blower and lights don't seem to dim or turn off. Dash lights, backlight remain. Radio reboots after cranking but on a few occasions it did not. I told wife it defaults to standby sometimes so it wouldn't come back on. I've ordered radio loom to smooth out voltage drop. I'll report back.

When car key removed from ignition the radio goes into its power down mode. Pressing power button with key removed results in radio staying powered off as it always has. I believe radio is correctly wired- it has been behaving flawlessly for 1 year. Problems recently occurred when new starter motor fitted. If I reverse the red and yellow wires the radio, currently running off switch live, will then be powered on the permanent live. This probably would stop the radio cutting out but would leave the radio powered on all the time resulting in a flat battery?

Motor shop says battery is good using tester 78% health.

I tried turning off radio before starting. It turned off! It is illuminated even when on standby but ignition off. So, not fully turned off if you get my drift. I think I've seen the lights go off on cranking. The crank is immediate unlike the old starter, although that was good. I've delayed cranking waiting.for ignition lights to extinguish and some more. Also, I've waited for radio to boot up, then crank. All result in radio cutting out and restarting. Blower fan, lights all off etc Taking it to motor store I bought from. It is a yuasa 760cca ybx5096 which is bigger battery than original spec. Incartec 10-602 make a voltage regulator I'm thinking of buying.

Turned off blower and all fogs. Side and dipped lights got 12.15v on battery. Whereabouts behind glovebox is earth point? Thanks

I've replaced the extension live wire to starter motor. Even with correct sized spades I've had to crimp with pliers to tighten fit. Duct tape just in case. I used extra earth to starter from battery neg. Radio still cut out. I'm on my own so no voltage readings. I did a drop test on battery. Ign on dipped beam, blower on fogs on. 12.01v Which is possibly questionable for a Feb 2026 battery. Resting voltage is always above 12.6v Alternator giving 14.2v iirc Last battery lasted 6years and was resting at 12.3v but drop tested to 11.6v or lower. It failed to hold charge dropping to 12.1v resting. Soon after power steering light came on. Heavy steering etc. Could be battery? Coincided with cold weather arriving. I've got battery tester but last batteries on other cars that were on way out were passed and told me to recharge. Only when cell collapsed does it fail . Shop replaced battery FOC (2 year old Bosch and 5yr warranty).

Crank voltage across terminals dropped to 10.30V , that's in the 10 to 10.5V range that AI said aftermarket radios shut down. Earth connector - had a look diagonally across engine bay. Only thing I can think of is there is a circular washer that is crumpled / rippled. Might have put it on wrong way place reducing contact area? Other earth points don't have this. Order as follows nut - washer - starter earth cable contact - earth point. Maybe washer goes between last 2? I could add another earth cable between starter and earth point? Starter live wire spade - the starter has a smaller spade. Oddly

The wire is an extension of about 10cm to give some slack for engine movement probably fitted due to problems earlier on with it coming lose when ASZ engine made. This is BLT. When the car returns home do I measure width of spade or it's length? Ta

I'll check battery voltage drop across battery. Earth to starter is tight and I cleaned contact. I had a wiggle of cable when fitting starter motor and no sign of breakage and what I could see of cable was uncorroded. AI says 6.3mm spade which from memory fits what I saw. The spade is loose in direction it pushes on/off, not sideways if that is how spade sizes change (on width)? The tightness of the fit wasn't great before on old starter. I'd spotted looseness some years ago and I'd put duct tape holding cable in place, just in case.

Radio wires - yes I checked with multimeter at time. AI says the aftermarket are susceptible to voltage drop and under 10.5v they shut down. Suggested I buy add on that has loom and small capacitor to take up the drop in voltage on cranking. Car wouldn't start now - the spade connector in starter motor had popped out. Any suggestions on holding it in? I crimped spade connector for tighter fit but it was already as tight as it would go. The aftermarket starter motor might have had some wear on its male spade end. I used duct tape but it came unstuck. Soldering a bit extreme and hard to get to. Don't think this is related to radio though. Thanks Ps found this for starter motor relay wire. 1K0973751 1 Pin Prewired Starter Connector for VW AUDI Seat. Currently there is just a female spade connector. Will this part fit? Methinks not....

Hello, Had a crank no start. Bosch starter motor reconditioned fitted. Car starts each and every time for a month since fitting. Wife noticed radio (Kenwood aftermarket) loses power on cranking and resets or stays shut down. Radio fitted 1 year ago and only shut down when battery was knackered. Turning off fan, lights had no effect. Radio loses power when starting every time, warm or cold engine. Looks like a voltage drop. Dash lights unaffected. I already cleaned all earth points in engine bay. I checked the negative battery cable to suspension turret earth. Put extra cable on it in case breakage (jump lead). Radio still loses power momentarily forcing reset. Presets not lost. Battery is healthy and reading over 12.6v AI Google says to fit a capacitor plus loom behind radio to drop the voltage drop. Anything else I can do? The battery is bigger than needed. 540Cca and it got at least 100 cca so I'm thinking is there a weak ground. Radio needs ignition on to power up - switched live. Could red and yellow wires be wrong way around, but then radio would be on all time = flat battery on constant live. Also seen a little brown wire slightly frayed on neg battery terminal. It is used for control systems on car and provides clean voltage unlike earth points. Could that be to blame? Any ideas appreciated.

No clicks when it played up for me. It clicked when starting normally. I tried x5 times taking key out and using spare I had with me, adjusted steering wheel height and tapped it in case of ignition barrel fault. Previous time was 2 weeks ago for wife. She rattled gear stick and then it started. Of course the gearbox mechanism is inches from starter. I had previously duct taped that red trigger wire as it felt insecure, loose. I had to cut duct tape carefully and cable was still attached to started flat terminal pin. Only after checking trigger wire and tapping starter did car start on next try. I cleaned all earth points afterwards With neg on battery disconnected and they weren't too bad. The positive wire that is braided and part of solenoid on starter was a bit green. The Bosch starter has a different starter sound to the valeo. I don't like it but if the car starts... I've tried starting x4 times and it hasn't failed to start. The starter is attached with X2 18mm bolts with X2 13mm nuts for earth or for a bracket. Also another 13mm for live big current connector. I'll see how it goes over next week, if it fails to start then it will be ignition barrel which is a job I've not done. The cruise control has broke and brought up a code a few months ago, it was never good on setting speed since I bought the car.

Bosch 0986018390 is a physical match 2kw 10 rather than 11 teeth - internet and eco says 10 or 11 ok

Car not returning any error codes. I wouldn't expect any though if starter. I'm changing starter motor (ECP supplied wrong one to start with!) When starter motor area was disturbed car started. I'm thinking a burnt out segment on commutator ring? I tried steering wheel adjust and wiggling key, spare key before knocking starter and nothing. After disturbing starter motor it started. Wife said she wiggled gear stick and it started. Dash light extinguish except the typical ones you'd expect. No unusual behaviour (dimming etc) Manual 6 speed 1.9tdi pd MK1 vrs Not dsg

Intermittent fault Car will not start. Dash lights up as typical, no dimming on starting. Battery is 12.8v and 1 year old I've checked... Trigger red live wire (wire of death) Cleaned X3 earth points and checked for breaks Used spare key in case of immobiliser or key fault Unfortunately, after 5 attempts I investigated engine bay and touched trigger wire (on blt it has an extension to stop it snapping due to being too short) then tried again starting car. It started no unusual noises. I got 12.4v on trigger wire using multimeter, but this was when car was starting up fine. Starter motor has not made any unusual noises. Could it be on its way out (19year old and 115k.miles?). It either works perfectly or not at all. Done this X2 occasions. At end of work day. Suggestions?

I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.

I've read that primer over rust converted rust is a bad idea, unstable surface , but probably better than not doing anything. Hycote diamond silver is a good match but the power red 50b for my astra was nota match. I went to paint shop. The base primer is coloured and gives depth to colour. I've got epoxy primer and going to seal it tomorrow. Should I rub down rest of sill to metal, I'm thinking not because the rust I found is creeping from direction of wheels towards centre of sill. I've found not rusted metal a little further in. Probably best not to disturb

It is regularly washed. I've had rear bumper off 2 years ago to rust proof hidden areas and wheel arches have been off numerous times. No rust. This rust was hidden under the factory paint and stone chip protection. As the sill protection is bubbly in appearance there was no tell tale signs. Discovered entirely accidentally when prepping sill. I bought a couple of Bolt Hamber products recently - Underbody and the clear stuff. 80 hydrate for chassis voids.

Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard over epoxy primer then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? If not how would you do it? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo taken I've rubbed down rust.

Just to finish off - the rivnuts are a success. I got 304 bolts metric M3 for speakers and M5 for rest of door. Wife took car out and said there is a noise 😔 😭 (me thinking there is a rivet head in void I didn't scoop out which is dancing around...) Turns out it was the box under passenger seat - I'd left licking wheel nut lose... Relief! Reminded me of this advert VW squeaky earring 1990 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DeKmf0YjZXqo&ved=2ahUKEwixt9yl2qWWAxWvcfEDHZJwK7cQwqsBegQIHBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Zpw6gChTxzSCHhW06QzL0 A tip - had an issue removing the blank next to door handle to release wire to door handle. There is a bolt accessible in edge of door. I'd loosened it, but it didn't look near enough to blank. It is important and must be slackened off alot of turns 6 to 8. If you lose bolt it drops into void. Hat boy Harvey useful video on YouTube. But no write up on passenger door. Also get 10 to 16mm bolt lengths. Any longer risks hitting glass / not necessary. I used silicone bead around neoprene seal.

Solved It's bolt at part 15 It touches the cap , part 3 but there is no entry into it. Needs loosening alot. If you drop it into door and retrieve it can't be put through the hole in the door. Needed.about.3.or 4 rotations to get part 3.out

Hatboy Harvey video deals with barrel lock on driver's side front door. I'm a bit stuck on removing the black cap next to door handle , part 3. I got part 2 cosmetic colour trim off. It is stopping me releasing Bowden cable and rest of window regulator carrier There is a bolt 15. Too large a head to remove from through door hole.i.dont.tji k it is connected? Any ideas appreciated. I don't want to use brute force yet

Routed mic behind top of drivers a pillar trim to the right of the sun visor. Cable jack went down A pillar passed fuse box and under steering wheel trim above pedals and found gap to rear of radio

Hello, I'm after some advice. Any alternatives to rivets? Window regulator repair in progress. The metal plate holding window regulator is riveted on to door. There are X10 7mm holes for metal plate/regulator to door attachment and X4 4mm holes for speakers. Rather than riveting are there any other options? I've seen rivnuts. However a size guide said a 5mm hole needs M3 rivnut not seen any smaller sizes like for 4mm diameter hole. I could probably put speaker on new metal plate with access to rear. Otherx10 holes 7mm hole will be blind/1 side access only. Suggestions appreciated. Camera rotate photo broken - I'm not working on upturned car 😂Thanks Ps Edit - reading around, looks like a few fabias suffering this failure. The motor is ok but the cable snapped in my case near top rear pulley.

I Got a spare cd autochanger that came with leather seats but no use in LE