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Hello, Buying a used inlet manifold but want to buy correct one. Are all fabia MK1 vrs inlet manifolds compatible from ASV engine, Golf MK4, Seat with the 07 BLT fabia vrs mk1? I've seen a Skoda Fabia ASV engine inlet manifold with what looks like a one piece anti shudder valve and egr - will the bolt holes fit my BLT engine if use my own anti shudder valve and egr with the ASV engine inlet manifold and will it dimensionally marry up with the boost pipes and the metal pipe to EGR from exhaust side? These part numbers are relevant 038129713AF Also seen same number but ending AG not AF. Listing for a 1.9tdi also, but was for a T5 Transporter or VW Sharan. Also seen 038129713B / 038131513AB Thanks!

I had a quick look online before posting . Only one vrs being broken at moment. Given age of parts I'd rather buy new parts. Local scrapyard had a fabia in but they remove wheels and stack the cars. Any parts under car are difficult to access. The crack is internal and doesn't go to the edge. Repair might be more feasible? Are all Fabia models the same with regard to the wheelarch? I thought the vrs had a mudguard lip at front side of wheel rear arch not present on non vrs models?

Hello, wheel arch liner plastic for rear of 07 MK1 Fabia vrs is unavailable. I have a crack inside the liner of the wheel arch. What would you recommend repairing with? Plastiweld metal staples and mesh, glue and sand from rear of liner once it is removed or solvent polypropylene like pipe cement glue? Other options? Thanks

Hello, wheel arch liner plastic for rear of 07 MK1 Fabian vrs unavailable. I have a crack inside liner of wheel arch. What would you recommend repairing with? Plastweld glue or those metal staples and mesh? Thanks

I used Shin Etsu, an expensive silicone based grease developed by Honda for their cabriolet seals. I think on the S2000. I had silicone paste already but you have to be careful what you use. Too much hydrocarbons and it will rot the rubber. Dealer didn't suggest any particular brand or product. Gummi pflege is another grease people use. The sunroof/panoramic seal is thin and hollow and the material is prone to deteriorating. Similar to certain ford focus door seals that fail and are seen hanging trailing from the closed door. The 2 year old seal from new showed signs of ageing and was one reason it was replaced under warranty. Now the 5 year old seal has been damaged by ice. Other cars I've owned have reached 20 plus years with their original sunroof seal.

5 and a bit year follow up. The drain hoses were growing black mould in the plastic blocking the flow of water that got past the sunroof seal. This was the real problem. A straw cleaning pipe cleaner used from plenum chamber under windscreen glass upwards solved this. More recently... After a bout of below freezing temperatures and ice the front middle of the sunroof has split. It is a hollow outer rubber seal. Not caused by opening, closing sunroof, just weathering. Looks like water has frozen and expanded or cold made seal brittle. Car is covered from UV in summer or garaged. Given it is a £800 job in 2018 according to earlier poster I suspect this job will cost over £1k. Never had an issue on older cars with sunroofs. Seems Skoda can't made sunroofs with reliable parts. I've filled in the cut with RTV. Photo looks better than it was. Q if water gets in the seal void will it enter the cabin?

If anyone is interested. There is a storage box light bulb that probably is not working and you had forgotten about it being there. Thinking it is a 5w5 bulb I disassembled the storage box etc The bulb appears built in to the plastic holder that unclips. There are two torx screws to remove. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/357919243d-ashtray-light-bulb-skoda-8069.html It is about 4 Euros but about 16 Euros delivery! Will dealer sell cheaper?

Resurfaced topic... unfortunately! Sometime in September I noticed the outer CV joint had lost its small clip. It was there for the wheel bearing change during summer. Garage that fitted only warrants work 3months. The proper clips were ordered in. Because a mechanic had left they was a 1 month backlog of appointments. I removed driveshaft and cleaned out CV boot and regreased, removed water. TPS small CV boot clip was no good for ECP CV boot (remember dealer could no longer supply the CV boot, obsolete). I bought some Amazon CV joint clips and they were decent, tight fit. OEM one was too small by 4mm. The OEM clips just would not compress enough around the boot and driveshaft to engage the ears in the holes in the clip. I don't mind the CV moly grease mess but those clips are razor sharp if you slip and this is the nightmare part of the job. I checked each day and then weekly and after a 3 month the boot is leaking grease from end despite the small clip being in place and being rock solid. I'm not loosing much grease and previously used a smear of RTV on the end of boot, just in case. Tonight there was still some grease leaking, a smear from the end of the boot. MOT fail I understand? What are my options? - new driveshaft? Fit myself. I checked ECP and CP4L and they don't stock. Online gives £80 driveshafts that are of maybe dubious quality. - remove small clip and try refitting a new one. I got the clip in the groove. The one on now looks well seated. Don't know what I'll achieve. - take back to the garage and hope they can refit better than me and have an imaginary tool that hold CV joint clip around the boot very tight before using pincher CV joint clip tool to tighten. - Original mechanic suggested fitting flexible rubber CV boot. Some had mixed reviews on quality on this. MOT looming in March. Thanks

Sorry to hijack the thread. If that Q was for me from Classic? Water pump is original. I asked Skoda dealership I bought from at 6 months and 10k miles whether water pump , 'engine sleeve' issue had been updated with the 2016 year and I was told yes. A lot of owners from 2013, 2014 maybe 2015 had issues with water pump? A couple of years ago the advice was, get it done at 5 years etc. Still is on some Skoda dealer websites. Google Skoda Henry's of Glasgow. Cheers

BTW my engine is a CRMB according to handbook sticker. Sticker on cam belt cover states CRMnumber.

I have just enquired about a timing belt kit and water pump price for an Octavia 3 2l diesel 150 bhp 2016. The dealer DM Keith told me that the recommendation is now 140,000 miles. I'm currently on 50,000 miles. No time limit mentioned, I've asked and awaiting a reply. I believed it was 5 years. A bit of googling, albeit a different model and engine, revealed Yeti owners have had a similar relaxation to 15 years and 180,000 miles. No warranty on that of course. I was about to book it in. Been quoted £1000 to 1100 by dealers and £500 by local independent. Are any specialist tools not stocked by a local independent needed? I heard the 1.5 ACT needs specialist tools for instance? Would you really risk leaving it this long? The engine has very good torque and pulls from 1200 rpm. I would have thought it would put more strain on belt? Also the DPF situated in the rear of engine bay not far from the cam belt, producing extremes of temperature? Not a nice environment for the belt? What do you all think about replacement?

Pete, any idea on the size of the two O rings at the two unions so I can get the correct size in before I start stripping the Air Con Condenser out the car down after XMAS? I goggled a Fabia 6y but what I found didn't match the Fabia vrs mk1. There are a lot of kits that sell 50 o -rings for the cost that a dealer would charge for one o - ring. They are listed as the correct material, HMBR. Like for like? Thanks!

Slave cylinder on clutch - mine went and started leaking brake fluid through bottom of bell housing. Check your brake fluid reservoir - it is shared with the clutch. First sign was the clutch pedal stuck down. If air in cable it will feel spongy, hard to change gear, change in biting point. They are fairly delicate. Have a read about bleeding clutch cable and installation. Easy to damage a new slave cylinder. It is almost as much work to access slave cylinder as fit new clutch, flywheel, so I got a new clutch, dual mass flywheel.

Thanks. I'll get a new condenser. A job for Xmas when I got more time. Any condenser brands better than others? Which would you not touch? Cheers. Hope you get better Pete. 👍

Hi Pete. I have had a look and the black frame around the engine bay can be removed (held by torx fasteners) to access the large torx fitting vertically? This sits top of the condenser, front right side / UK driver's side. Is this the location of the dryer? This all assumes the dryer is blocked and there is some back pressure and that the leak is just the o ring in bottom union. New condenser comes with a new dryer? Should I just replace the condenser? Radiator was replaced 40 k miles ago so I'll leave that be. Workshop manual states to drain coolant, is this to lessen weight of radiator the condenser is attached to? On an Astra this would not have been necessary. Thanks

Thanks. I had a read of post below. Pete you mention the dryer unit should be replaced. I understand a new condenser comes with a new dryer? Given I have leak on the union, could it be that the dryer dessicant in need of some TLC, ie replacement and a new union o ring? I think the condenser is not leaking itself. I'll have another look but I seem to remember a black plastic over the place where the dryer insert would be. Can I access dryer without removing bumper, crash bar etc? Cheers

I have noticed some green fluid on garage floor. A bit guey too. I had a look under car and there are green drips under front bumper. Condenser looks ok (no exterior holes) other than it is wet at bottom front right of it (driver's side, UK). The union at bottom seem suspect. Fabia vrs mk1 07 I just replaced the radiator and condenser on my other car. This one must be feeling left out... Does the Fabia havens low pressure cut out to save AC compressor from damage? Best not use it until replaced etc? It looks like a bumper off job? Cheers in advance for any input. New condenser and new o ring seals? Anything else to pamper the car with? I found a lot of bolts, brackets were rusted and 'obsolete'. Even a radiator hose (most common fail one out of thermostat was a 2 week wait). Any idea what shape union o rings are? I paid £65 for my last condenser and the special purple o rings were £22 from vauxhall or £9 for a pick a mix variety pack in green with some odd shape ones from autostore. Thanks

Thanks all. Solved. I finished the refurb on the front brakes and other paint jobs. It has taken a while between paint coats and looking after kids etc. I took the car out yesterday, but further afield today at A road speeds. The drone has disappeared, so it was the correct wheel bearing that was replaced. Phew! There is something to be said for opening up the brake nipple rather than just undoing brake reservoir cap when pushing back the caliper piston. Lots of black bits in brake fluid. Going to do a full four wheel brake bleed when it is a rain day. Front wheel hub 12 point nut stage 1 50 nm then stage 2, 45 degree turn. The Brembo supplied plates the pads sit on (fitting kit) were way too tight on the pads, not because of the paint job btw. I literally chipped away all the old paint back to metal. The old ones were only a few years old and allowed the pads to move. Tracking seems unaffected.

Lofty, thanks for the pics. Yes, it was that retaining ring showing that was worrying me. My mind is at ease. It's got to be this side. I fitted other side only 35k miles ago, F.A.G. brand. Got to be....! I felt roughness in this one too. Please be the one I've replaced!! Last time I prayed was when fitting those cupra solid rubber console bushes!

Abs sensor seen from back of hub/wb, at top of photo peeping through the hole in the hub. Magnetic ring is smooth brown coloured ring

The new wheel bearing is in. A bit slow due to caliper respray etc. I cleaned up the wheel bearing housing to perfection and greased with molybdenum then realised I couldn't get the cup cylinder tool that sits at back of hub. It needed scraping and sanding of 1 mm of rust all way around. Cleaned up and repeated. I heard a click then shortly after another. I made sure the bearing was offered up square on. The WB slid in easily. The retaining collar can just be seen in the gap. I was worried that despite the clicks the bearing was not quite installed. I measured 8mm gap between wheel bearing and hub, but I should have measured this before. The abs sensor sits almost touching the magnetic ring at back of WB so any further movement will break abs sensor. It is 1mm off the magnetic ring.

Thanks Rum4mo. Yes, I'm going to spend more time cleaning those parts tomorrow. To get the rust out the hole for the abs sensor I used 80 grit then 120 grit rolled up into tube and passed it through hole. The abs sensor locates fine now. I was thinking that a bead of silicone in a circle around the hole might stop water entering, as long as I don't go crazy, none in the hole etc. This will stop water entering the hole and rust expanding and pinching the sensor. The sensor binds near the top 5mm of the hole, most of the rod like abs sensor is smaller than the hole. As for the flat edge of the rear nut I too wondered if it would miss the sensor if it were still in place. I measured 3mm clearance the flat edge allows once the wheel bearing was out with the tool still clamped tight in place. I'll measure how much abs sensor protrudes into where wheel bearing sits tomorrow.

Would the wheel bearing off the car give any tell tale signs of failure? Just a bit paranoid wheel bearing might be ok. The old one spins more freely than the new one! Although, if worn it might have more 'play'. I can just about feel a slight roughness when turned, like when I spun the wheel with it in situ. I suppose it needs weight on it to reveal its failure? I didn't get any noise on turning but I don't do sharp turns at 50 plus mph. What do you think Pete. I guess I'll know when I put new one on either way.

After teatime, got the old bearing out. Do I need to track the steering? I didn't need to remove the track rod end. Ball joint 3 x 13mm nuts were removed but fit snuggly in bracket. I didn't track this side driveshaft came out for boot as only the same ball joint bolts were disturbed. I was getting worried, because I had to resort to breaker bar but I backed off and tried again. Plenty of gt85 down all the gaps to wheel bearing and it came. Looks like and feeling that recessed collar, some material is left behind. Most came out with old bearing. Cheers