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I'm thinking repair, yes, but my wife had seeded doubts and I thought I'd reach out for opinions. I have space for a donor car. There was one in north east that sold recently for £800. My neighbour has low loader as a business so if anyone has a silver fabia non runner for breaking I would be interested in buying. The door is wrong colour but it will allow car to be waterproof should a diamond silver one come on market.

Ok, I've sourced a door I'm picking up with wing mirror. The old door looks ok for most part but it got pushed forward distorting its shape. The window mechanism detects a jam and it has air gap at top of door. What you think After market wing Vs 2nd hand I'm after a VW diamond silver but I'm told it would probably not match and need respray. I'm no expert here, what you all think?

Offered £5500 for my wife's Vrs by insurer and £1850 for retaining car. Car has 110k miles but was in very good condition. I just changed engine mounts , new driveshaft, tie rods, ball joints, tracked and the rear suspension and resprayed rear bumper plus undercar underseal. The vrs got a kiss from a hgv wide load whilst parked. The drivers door is distorted and the A pillar has a crease. The drivers wing is creased also. Looking at replacements. I've got wing off and in process of getting door off. I've sourced a new door wing mirror but am I making the correct decision. Looking at car market everything has inflated in price. I'd go fully electric when time is right. The BMW i3 and the Renault 5 looked good, but looking at 30k and I'm not convinced technology is reliable for me to have confidence. Plus big ask to fork out another 20 to 25k Car drives fine and it basically got rocked to side when hit. See photos. A few repairers I tried are really busy. Suggested that I buy new wing and paint but I'm told by others pattern parts don't fit together or thinner, rust easy etc. Anyone suggest how a panel beater would repair the dent in the A pillar? Weld metal in? Lead solder metal in? Filler, but heard that is a bodge job if more than 3mm thick and incompatible with 1k rattle can spray paints acrylic, nitrocellulose etc I've read up on repair techniques and returned my own alloys etc, but rattle can paint will not give that gloss shine you get from 2k paints which I don't have kit to spray. Thank you

I checked that initially. Car is on its 2nd set of springs, shocks at front. It's on its 3rd set of rear shocks, springs. The rear shocks only lasted 30k miles from dealer parts, so not cheapo ones. No weeping, but off car they were not returning. On car they were allowing more suspension travel at rear. If your bump stops have split on rear shocks it is time for replacement.

Vrs MK1, BLT 07. Jnc gearbox and 6 speed I've just done the same mount and another lower mount in another car and the gear changes are slick, accepts 1st before full stop. Vibration from glovebox has gone and seems to be better in corners. I'm going to replace. I've got an engine hoist but I agree I think gearbox needs slightly raising to take weight off bolts. Definitely removing battery plus tray. My astra had a nut behind edge of the wheel arch plastic to undo. Different design here.

Reversing with full right lock in reverse (it does it in neutral but full right lock) with car coasting downhill onto my drive Any ideas? Getting worse ( louder, more frequent) To save reading I think it might be an engine mount. When turning full right lock with engine running the engine can be seen dropping on its left most side at least 2inch. Could the engine gearbox mount be failing allowing more movement? Gear changes are excellent. Gear box fluid was changed 50k miles ago. How hard a job to swap out gearbox mount? Car on 108k miles now. My other car needed new mounts also (88k miles) Noise could be gearbox or steering rack? I've ruled out Track rod ends (both had split rubbers 30k miles, 8years). Ball joints (both replaced with TREs. Droplinks (no splits, no play) with wheels off car. Arb bush - checked bolts. Polybushed 8years ago. No play Arb - no play, cracks Wheel bearing replaced both sides but years ago and 1 year ago. No loose bolts Nearside driveshaft replaced - not this, bolts checked. Inner track rod end replaced 8years ago, again no play. Steering - jacked up or with wheels on and on ground. I have full movement and no notchiness etc. Brake pads - not this or seized caliper. LCA bushes are Cupra bushes (8years ago). Checked front bush bolt, again tight. Hub nut tight Engine dog bone bolts tight and poly bushed years ago. Thanks

Sorted. This is the correct driveshaft. It concertinas, pulls out in length from inner CV joint. The plastic thrower fits as said above. Flat to the outside into bearing facing towards wheel. Cheers

Thanks. I thought so. The new driveshaft has a metal ring, unlike old driveshaft which had a thicker thrower ring. That new plastic thrower fits perfectly in it, after of course messing about fitting in the metal ring. Flat face towards bearing, abs fits well when held separately without driveshaft. Haynes manual showed same as what you said, but old thrower is concaved facing bearing, appears opposite way, hence Q. Ta

This is what the old thrower ring looks like, that I lifted off this site. The driveshaft would be behind this ring. Wheel bearing, hub between thrower and camera .

Need to know which is the correct way I fit this plastic thrower ring that stops dust getting to abs sensor at outer end of driveshaft? Thanks Ps opinion on whether driveshafts match for this BLT fabia vrs car? Gsf list as 261204

I checked them out and other sites. Napa and Apec are one and the same. The Napa is slightly cheaper and partsinmotion found a compatible item, which it was not. Returned driveshaft they confirmed as a fit. At least 2 other vendors also think it fits the MK1 fabia vrs so be warned. It is about an inch too short. Nds1309l does not fit. Plan B - the GSD driveshaft from GSF - website says it in stock and compatible. I roll up to the store and guess what, it ain't a match. Too long and has open end and o ring plus CV boot grease in packages. Gsf then looked on in store computer to find a compatible product but it is a 30mile round trip again. Tip ring gsf up in person to avoid disappointment. Their database is really bad. Plan C - Shaftec - anyone heard of them? Did some research and reviews are not great. Better than J and R driveshafts though. But someone on Ford ST forum says they might be linked to J and R. Both based in Birmingham, but different postcodes. GSD and Shaftec both got 1 year warranty. Shaftec £142 Vs £165 GSD. The inner CV boot has slight gap, indent on outside of the CV boot clip. Letting a little grease out. No splits though. Found both front tie rod ends split. I bought Borg and Beck 6 years , 30k miles ago. Problem is local supplier just stocks cheapo brands and tie rods were an after thought when I bought front suspension parts. I was going to do the whole lot again , but only 30k miles on front. The rear shocks, springs lasted 35k (shocks were from dealer) and they were dead on both sides. Not a lot of A or Mways but not bad B or C roads. Bought Lemforder and new ball joints whilst I'm in there (3rd set now) at 107k miles. There are stress lines in the rubber.cv boots after 1 year so I'm not really impressed. I'd pay more but no one sells quality driveshafts it seems. The nylon CV boots Euro Car Parts, particularly the outer CV boot did not fit properly (slightly too large). Garage fitted these and outer kept popping off. 2 years on my I'm in this position.

Yes, indeed. I dodged the bullet there! Pays to do a bit of research before buying.

I searched and found one at £135 at Opie. Matches my car. 3yr warranty 36k mikes. The eBay one is J R driveshafts and they have a huge amount of 1 star reviews. Entertaining read of the reviews. GSP - 2 yr warranty GSF. Reviews seem ok. Shafttec, Borg Beck offered at local motor factors 1yr warranty. Want old driveshaft back and £138 or £12 surcharge. Little info on them. If course local seller says they good, but they said that about struts on another car that last 15k. BJ driveshaft £130 - never heard of at another place. I think the Apec one if I can get locally. Thanks for useful info. 👍 MOT - CV joint - fail if tears in rubber. Will it fail for any other CV joint reason? Got MOT round corner...Otherwise I'll wait till I got time to fit in a few weeks.

Hi Alasdair1 Is GSP a good brand? Car chunked again. Full right lock on steering, in reverse, no braking. I've ruled out brakes now. I can hear clunk go through gearbox, so not a sticky brake caliper (on its 2nd set). I now see a little grease near inner CV boot. This was also changed by garage and looked like a good job 2yr ago Tried Parts in motion. Just sell CV joint boots, no driveshafts.

Hello Would you buy an aftermarket driveshaft (brand new) off eBay? £50 including driveshaft nut. If not, where would you buy? Skoda won't sell whole lot and last time I contacted them the nylon boot was obsolete part. I'd prefer fully assembled driveshaft rather than wrestling Cv joints, grease, clips etc. 2 yr warranty, UK supplier and apparently manufacturer. Garage split CV boot when jacking up engine to do a timing belt and had car in out of garage to sort it (ECP nylon boot for outer CV joint was not a good fit). Rubber one proved good fit but I think the water, dirt that got in has done some damage. When car is reversed and on full lock I've got a clunk noise from that area. No clicking noise (yet). Apparently, a bad CV joint will reveal itself on reverse and full lock when it most under stress. I tried repeating and I couldn't replicate per journey. It does it after commute when backing up onto driveway though at least first time.

In my case, the gear oil was full and you wouldn't notice any gear change problems. Just thought I'd caution about putting 'any' gear oil in.

What gear oil you bought? Brand, viscosity? When I bought my fabia 1.9 TDI vrs I changed fluids. Gear box oil got changed using Castrol oil finder due to slightly poor shifting between 1st to 2nd and it was worse changing on cold starts. Same shifting behaviour when warmed up. I went to dealer and bought 6 speed gear oil they listed. Didn't improve on what it was like before trying Castrol gear oil, but better than synthetic Castrol oil. Changing the engine mount to polybush helped gear changes - less movement of engine. So I'm skeptical. Is your car 5 or 6 speed?

Found this... It's a Superb, but the same EA288 engine. Looks like coolant drained, steering arm disconnected, driveshaft driver's side removed, air hose, airbox. Not an easy job. Anyone got this dpf out from above the engine bay without resorting to removing , disconnecting other bits? Reading around - Cleaning advised off car with backflush because of contamination of CAT, lambda, dpf sensors, not full clean of dpf possible in situ, turbo might be damaged on exhaust side, egr. Cleaning off car - dpf is flushed with warm water after soak in dpf cleaner, dried with hot air. I can't see that this is possible whilst on the car like these dpf cleaning firms are doing?

Has anyone taken the DPF off car and cleaned it? DIY? Anyone care to share their experience? I've heard a company takes dpf off, but this same neighbour's mercedes got a blocked dpf from euro5 engine. Dpf company said that they 'removed' dpf to clean , but it looks like it wasn't and it was cleaned on the car. 6 weeks later it was blocked again. New dpf fitted £1k Dpf was probably blocked anyway.

Octavia 3 2l 150bhp diesel I've had the car from 2016, almost new. Anyone recommend getting a dpf clean done professionally to clean the filter more thoroughly than the car can do itself, or is this simply a waste of £ ? A neighbour had a mobile dpf cleaning company come out to clean his Audi dpf - one pressure sensor was holed due to blockage. They cleaned the DPF on the car, so the catalyst downstream got all the run off of cleaning chemicals. Would you recommend this practice of not removing dpf from the car to clean? I'm using fuel additives and premium fuel which helps but the dpf still regenerates sooner than it did when I got the car, no errors. Thanks

Update - managed to read some of the part number on my own car's inlet manifold 8129713BC, so probably 038129713BC How important is the last 2 letters 'BC' , which seem to vary on the 2nd hand parts I'm viewing. Cheers Ps - how easy is it to access those manifold bolts. Is it done from below or above? I can see one of them, left rear of engine, but rest are hidden.

Thanks

Hello, Buying a used inlet manifold but want to buy correct one. Are all fabia MK1 vrs inlet manifolds compatible from ASV engine, Golf MK4, Seat with the 07 BLT fabia vrs mk1? I've seen a Skoda Fabia ASV engine inlet manifold with what looks like a one piece anti shudder valve and egr - will the bolt holes fit my BLT engine if use my own anti shudder valve and egr with the ASV engine inlet manifold and will it dimensionally marry up with the boost pipes and the metal pipe to EGR from exhaust side? These part numbers are relevant 038129713AF Also seen same number but ending AG not AF. Listing for a 1.9tdi also, but was for a T5 Transporter or VW Sharan. Also seen 038129713B / 038131513AB Thanks!

I had a quick look online before posting . Only one vrs being broken at moment. Given age of parts I'd rather buy new parts. Local scrapyard had a fabia in but they remove wheels and stack the cars. Any parts under car are difficult to access. The crack is internal and doesn't go to the edge. Repair might be more feasible? Are all Fabia models the same with regard to the wheelarch? I thought the vrs had a mudguard lip at front side of wheel rear arch not present on non vrs models?

Hello, wheel arch liner plastic for rear of 07 MK1 Fabia vrs is unavailable. I have a crack inside the liner of the wheel arch. What would you recommend repairing with? Plastiweld metal staples and mesh, glue and sand from rear of liner once it is removed or solvent polypropylene like pipe cement glue? Other options? Thanks