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Lofty, thanks for the pics. Yes, it was that retaining ring showing that was worrying me. My mind is at ease. It's got to be this side. I fitted other side only 35k miles ago, F.A.G. brand. Got to be....! I felt roughness in this one too. Please be the one I've replaced!! Last time I prayed was when fitting those cupra solid rubber console bushes!

Abs sensor seen from back of hub/wb, at top of photo peeping through the hole in the hub. Magnetic ring is smooth brown coloured ring

The new wheel bearing is in. A bit slow due to caliper respray etc. I cleaned up the wheel bearing housing to perfection and greased with molybdenum then realised I couldn't get the cup cylinder tool that sits at back of hub. It needed scraping and sanding of 1 mm of rust all way around. Cleaned up and repeated. I heard a click then shortly after another. I made sure the bearing was offered up square on. The WB slid in easily. The retaining collar can just be seen in the gap. I was worried that despite the clicks the bearing was not quite installed. I measured 8mm gap between wheel bearing and hub, but I should have measured this before. The abs sensor sits almost touching the magnetic ring at back of WB so any further movement will break abs sensor. It is 1mm off the magnetic ring.

Thanks Rum4mo. Yes, I'm going to spend more time cleaning those parts tomorrow. To get the rust out the hole for the abs sensor I used 80 grit then 120 grit rolled up into tube and passed it through hole. The abs sensor locates fine now. I was thinking that a bead of silicone in a circle around the hole might stop water entering, as long as I don't go crazy, none in the hole etc. This will stop water entering the hole and rust expanding and pinching the sensor. The sensor binds near the top 5mm of the hole, most of the rod like abs sensor is smaller than the hole. As for the flat edge of the rear nut I too wondered if it would miss the sensor if it were still in place. I measured 3mm clearance the flat edge allows once the wheel bearing was out with the tool still clamped tight in place. I'll measure how much abs sensor protrudes into where wheel bearing sits tomorrow.

Would the wheel bearing off the car give any tell tale signs of failure? Just a bit paranoid wheel bearing might be ok. The old one spins more freely than the new one! Although, if worn it might have more 'play'. I can just about feel a slight roughness when turned, like when I spun the wheel with it in situ. I suppose it needs weight on it to reveal its failure? I didn't get any noise on turning but I don't do sharp turns at 50 plus mph. What do you think Pete. I guess I'll know when I put new one on either way.

After teatime, got the old bearing out. Do I need to track the steering? I didn't need to remove the track rod end. Ball joint 3 x 13mm nuts were removed but fit snuggly in bracket. I didn't track this side driveshaft came out for boot as only the same ball joint bolts were disturbed. I was getting worried, because I had to resort to breaker bar but I backed off and tried again. Plenty of gt85 down all the gaps to wheel bearing and it came. Looks like and feeling that recessed collar, some material is left behind. Most came out with old bearing. Cheers

There is a brake disk lip of at least 1mm both sides and a got a set of Brembos and pads to fit. The wheel bearing was an added surprise bonus. Back to the bearing. Can I expect the circlip/collar that clicks in place to destroy itself on the old bearing and stay in place or will it drop off nicely into the recess? I got small cold chisel set and I will rub down the recess(wheel bearing housing inside hub). Should I use molybdenum grease to aid fitting, like the video. I think I used a bit last time? Cheers

What's your opinion on replacement of front discs? I think the discs are worn. Score marks on both sides, feel like ridges and appeared at same time on other discs opposite side, same axle. Done 40 to 45k Pads have plenty of friction material though.

Ah, this one? This is to miss the abs sensor if it were still present?

Hi Pete, I got this kit - See photo, my finger is pointing to flat bit. Discs with mastic tape were used for other FR wheel bearing insertion a few years ago. In this video the flat edge of the black half circle is positioned at base of the wheel bearing/hub. I'm 4mins 10s into video Thanks

I got it out intact by some miracle. Gt85, flat screwdrivers chiseling around sensor at rust and paint runs and...lots of patience.

Does the abs sensor definitely need removing before I use tech 2 wheel bearing removal tool? Last abs sensor broke when trying to save it from hub, so I really don't have anything to lose. Cheers

I'm only poking fun Sep. No worries. I think Mars is simply a Plan B, in case there is an Extinction Level Event.

Last video sounds metallic and something mechanical. When were your shock absorbers last changed, particularly the front ones? If you think it is a panel loose, have you looked under your car? Check the oil undertray. I see cars with these loose, flapping around. Exhaust rubber mounts (although mine seem in good nick despite age of car). Maybe get someone to follow you in another car to spot anything untoward under your car at speed?

Apologies, I skim read replies. Has anyone mentioned caliper carrier bolts lose? Sounded like worn out ARB bush but only on braking on/off.

I think that is a bit unfair. No one likes paying out lots of dosh they can be spending on food, heating etc. As for the choice of car, 999spender is probably just a genuine car enthusiast who appreciates the pd130 engine. I think that Gordon Brown was perhaps wrong when he said "Buy a diesel" (better for the environment implied with the lower CO2 emissions.. However, no one likes being railroaded into getting rid of their pride and joy and cars don't last forever. The older, dirty cars that met the 'clean' UK emission standards at the time of production will be phased out as they become uneconomic to repair. Perhaps we should wait till then and just limit car use in general. I wonder if Beijing or Moscow have similar schemes. There was talk of road tax per mile here in UK. I have heard of contactors getting perverse incentives ie travelling from Lincolnshire to Yorkshire to do a building job because they get paid more (presumably claim back fuel etc). Cars pollute regardless where they are. When I lived in London I used the tube and buses. A bus every 10 or 15 mins, not every 1 hour. Reasonable price to get around London meant not taking the car a no brainer decision. However, like 999 brainer I liked to get out of London once in a while. The ulez is yet another tax on motorists. Although, in fairness, if you are asthmatic I can understand why you might choke on hearing 999spender's decision to buy another diesel. Perhaps too profound, but the real issue is the world population. Humans pollute. Who is for Mars?

Hi, I have noticed a drone noise that becomes noticeable at 45mph on and gets worse with speed. Turning steering, braking, putting car in neutral at speed has no effect on this noise. I read that a drone may indicate a wheel bearing is on its way out? I have swapped rear tyres from rear to front to rule out worn or feathered tyres. The tyres have all 5mm across them so nothing suspect. I got one side done last night and it made no difference to drone noise this am. I have just finished the other side this evening but not yet test drived. However , I suspect it is a wheel bearing as there is no unusual wear on the tyres having measured the depth using a gauge. The front left wheel or any other wheel have no play, but when rotating the front left wheel I can hear a rough noise. The car has done 96k and it is the original wheel bearing. It had the FL drive shaft off to fit new CV joint boots half a year ago. I mentioned to mechanic the hub nut is only 60nm *iirc I have fitted a new wheel bearing front right 25k miles ago as the hub was replaced. I have eBay tech2 kit specific to the Fabia, Fox models. Before I decide to tackle this job myself or take to the garage previously I only needed to fit the new bearing to a new hub. This time I need to remove the old wheel bearing I understand there is a collar that clicks in position. How hard is it to get the old wheel bearing out? Does it unsnap easily? I remember someone warning me to get a decent wheel bearing with this locking collar. I think I got a FAG WB which had this collar and I heard the satisfying click. In another link someone suggested the track rod needed disconnecting. Would I need to do this? Also, I have abs, the abs sensor sits just outside the wheel bearing circumference. Do I need the type of wheel bearing with abs integrated? In another thread this part number was suggested 6Q0407621BR fits 288 brake discs and with PA steering, which my 07 vrs has. Thanks

Think Darkside do a new smic with the hardpipes, silicone if you got the budget.

I had not wasted money on rear shocks. They were past their best at 45k miles, seems a bit low to me. Both retracted but really slowly, right rear seemed to stop then continue. The rear of car has less sway and less bounce, recoil. Paid £130 for a pair of Bilstein B4.

The adjustable wrench works. I have a go through socket but it really only works with torx, spline vertically downwards. Any better tools recommended for the top of shock absorber slotted tube? Btw - top of tube slot is a 6mm spanner gap. If seized then a 6mm spanner will snap. The Bilsteins I fitted seem to have a 17mm top nut rather than 16mm top nut on OEM nut.

Level sensor - what's its job? Thanks

Michelin primacy out of stock until July. I'm putting a Michelin Crossclimate 2 on and a crossclimate tyre I saved and got repaired. Have them on front axle. I wanted to move away from them as I got 3 punctures in 9 months. One was repairable with almost full tread so that is getting refitted. Going to change the rear shock with Bilstein. There was a report about creaking rear suspension. https://www.repxpert.co.uk/en-gb/technical-information/chassis/bilstein-noise-rear-axle-golf-skoda Had a look at rear shocks. Two bolts top hidden under wheel arch liner, which needs to come out. Great design. One bolt at bottom. Anyone know what this is for. I don't want to break it when removing left rear shock . Looks like it has an electric cable/sensor going to it. Top image - look behind brake Flexi to right rear, left of spring. Bottom image - zoomed in. This gizmo is absent on rear right of solid rear axle. Bubbles are TLC wash. Ta

Thanks Carlston, The rear tyres got an MOT advisory for cracks in tread on last MOT. No cracks on sidewalls. I read up on it and it was advised to keep on eye on them but if sidewall affected it would be a fail. There were minor cracks in tread from year one of car's life on all the Dunlop OEM fitted from new. Cracks were not excessive. I spotted the Primacy plus tyres too. I read they offer better braking when tyre tread worn. Primacy S1 - I don't mind them lasting fewer miles given that tyres don't seem to be lasting as long as they used to (UV agent black banned in tyre production). Primacy S1 are good on wet grip too I've just read. 6 years is use by and 10 years is the must replace date it seems. My current tyres have never been overloaded nor run deflated or overinflated, speed bumps are taken steadily. The car recently has been used at motorway speeds and it seems this has caused the tyre issue to surface. First tyre failure in 25 years plus of driving other than a Marigoni front tyres that got a flat spot from locking wheels up when another driver decided not to give way at a roundabout (different car, same tyre dimensions as Oct3)

Solved - it was the failure of the tyre. Problem was getting worse so I ordered the shocks for rear yesterday, confident it was probably this. Bilsteins B4. I had tpms light on and tyre pressures fine. Checked tyre and shocks and spring. All good. Today after 70mph speeds tpms light came on a few miles from home, rear end felt really wobbly. Tyres again inspected. Rear right Dunlop tyre which is still holding air pressure has bulge in tread and cords exposed which wasn't there previously. Lucky car tyre didn't explode and lose control of car. 3mm tyre tread on edge and 4mm in middle. Car not hit pothole or speed bumps etc. 48th week of 2015. So, not 10 years old but evidently past its best... Ats has Michelin primacy 4 A wet grip , A on fuel and 70db lower noise. Good price too. Anyone recommend this or another? I got crossclimate tyres left on front axle and had 3 punctures, they are sticky tyres but even hawthorn flattened last tyre so I don't want them.

New EGR valve - sucking the vacuum hose hole on top pulls the valve up. Old EGR off car - valve would not budge. I couldn't move valve up from below with my finger, even with new EGR valve. Old EGR valve, despite being clean, the valve sleeve is probably coked up and not possible to get in there to clean. The Borg Warner EGR came with a gasket between the ASV and EGR I haven't had previously. I have the rubber o ring both sides of the EGR. The gasket is in addition to the o ring. Not there from new or in last EGR kit. No leaks. Photo shows coking under EGR valve that connects to metal Flexi that carries exhaust gas up into EGR Vs new EGR aside it.