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I got it out intact by some miracle. Gt85, flat screwdrivers chiseling around sensor at rust and paint runs and...lots of patience.

Does the abs sensor definitely need removing before I use tech 2 wheel bearing removal tool? Last abs sensor broke when trying to save it from hub, so I really don't have anything to lose. Cheers

I'm only poking fun Sep. No worries. I think Mars is simply a Plan B, in case there is an Extinction Level Event.

Last video sounds metallic and something mechanical. When were your shock absorbers last changed, particularly the front ones? If you think it is a panel loose, have you looked under your car? Check the oil undertray. I see cars with these loose, flapping around. Exhaust rubber mounts (although mine seem in good nick despite age of car). Maybe get someone to follow you in another car to spot anything untoward under your car at speed?

Apologies, I skim read replies. Has anyone mentioned caliper carrier bolts lose? Sounded like worn out ARB bush but only on braking on/off.

I think that is a bit unfair. No one likes paying out lots of dosh they can be spending on food, heating etc. As for the choice of car, 999spender is probably just a genuine car enthusiast who appreciates the pd130 engine. I think that Gordon Brown was perhaps wrong when he said "Buy a diesel" (better for the environment implied with the lower CO2 emissions.. However, no one likes being railroaded into getting rid of their pride and joy and cars don't last forever. The older, dirty cars that met the 'clean' UK emission standards at the time of production will be phased out as they become uneconomic to repair. Perhaps we should wait till then and just limit car use in general. I wonder if Beijing or Moscow have similar schemes. There was talk of road tax per mile here in UK. I have heard of contactors getting perverse incentives ie travelling from Lincolnshire to Yorkshire to do a building job because they get paid more (presumably claim back fuel etc). Cars pollute regardless where they are. When I lived in London I used the tube and buses. A bus every 10 or 15 mins, not every 1 hour. Reasonable price to get around London meant not taking the car a no brainer decision. However, like 999 brainer I liked to get out of London once in a while. The ulez is yet another tax on motorists. Although, in fairness, if you are asthmatic I can understand why you might choke on hearing 999spender's decision to buy another diesel. Perhaps too profound, but the real issue is the world population. Humans pollute. Who is for Mars?

Hi, I have noticed a drone noise that becomes noticeable at 45mph on and gets worse with speed. Turning steering, braking, putting car in neutral at speed has no effect on this noise. I read that a drone may indicate a wheel bearing is on its way out? I have swapped rear tyres from rear to front to rule out worn or feathered tyres. The tyres have all 5mm across them so nothing suspect. I got one side done last night and it made no difference to drone noise this am. I have just finished the other side this evening but not yet test drived. However , I suspect it is a wheel bearing as there is no unusual wear on the tyres having measured the depth using a gauge. The front left wheel or any other wheel have no play, but when rotating the front left wheel I can hear a rough noise. The car has done 96k and it is the original wheel bearing. It had the FL drive shaft off to fit new CV joint boots half a year ago. I mentioned to mechanic the hub nut is only 60nm *iirc I have fitted a new wheel bearing front right 25k miles ago as the hub was replaced. I have eBay tech2 kit specific to the Fabia, Fox models. Before I decide to tackle this job myself or take to the garage previously I only needed to fit the new bearing to a new hub. This time I need to remove the old wheel bearing I understand there is a collar that clicks in position. How hard is it to get the old wheel bearing out? Does it unsnap easily? I remember someone warning me to get a decent wheel bearing with this locking collar. I think I got a FAG WB which had this collar and I heard the satisfying click. In another link someone suggested the track rod needed disconnecting. Would I need to do this? Also, I have abs, the abs sensor sits just outside the wheel bearing circumference. Do I need the type of wheel bearing with abs integrated? In another thread this part number was suggested 6Q0407621BR fits 288 brake discs and with PA steering, which my 07 vrs has. Thanks

Think Darkside do a new smic with the hardpipes, silicone if you got the budget.

I had not wasted money on rear shocks. They were past their best at 45k miles, seems a bit low to me. Both retracted but really slowly, right rear seemed to stop then continue. The rear of car has less sway and less bounce, recoil. Paid £130 for a pair of Bilstein B4.

The adjustable wrench works. I have a go through socket but it really only works with torx, spline vertically downwards. Any better tools recommended for the top of shock absorber slotted tube? Btw - top of tube slot is a 6mm spanner gap. If seized then a 6mm spanner will snap. The Bilsteins I fitted seem to have a 17mm top nut rather than 16mm top nut on OEM nut.

Level sensor - what's its job? Thanks

Michelin primacy out of stock until July. I'm putting a Michelin Crossclimate 2 on and a crossclimate tyre I saved and got repaired. Have them on front axle. I wanted to move away from them as I got 3 punctures in 9 months. One was repairable with almost full tread so that is getting refitted. Going to change the rear shock with Bilstein. There was a report about creaking rear suspension. https://www.repxpert.co.uk/en-gb/technical-information/chassis/bilstein-noise-rear-axle-golf-skoda Had a look at rear shocks. Two bolts top hidden under wheel arch liner, which needs to come out. Great design. One bolt at bottom. Anyone know what this is for. I don't want to break it when removing left rear shock . Looks like it has an electric cable/sensor going to it. Top image - look behind brake Flexi to right rear, left of spring. Bottom image - zoomed in. This gizmo is absent on rear right of solid rear axle. Bubbles are TLC wash. Ta

Thanks Carlston, The rear tyres got an MOT advisory for cracks in tread on last MOT. No cracks on sidewalls. I read up on it and it was advised to keep on eye on them but if sidewall affected it would be a fail. There were minor cracks in tread from year one of car's life on all the Dunlop OEM fitted from new. Cracks were not excessive. I spotted the Primacy plus tyres too. I read they offer better braking when tyre tread worn. Primacy S1 - I don't mind them lasting fewer miles given that tyres don't seem to be lasting as long as they used to (UV agent black banned in tyre production). Primacy S1 are good on wet grip too I've just read. 6 years is use by and 10 years is the must replace date it seems. My current tyres have never been overloaded nor run deflated or overinflated, speed bumps are taken steadily. The car recently has been used at motorway speeds and it seems this has caused the tyre issue to surface. First tyre failure in 25 years plus of driving other than a Marigoni front tyres that got a flat spot from locking wheels up when another driver decided not to give way at a roundabout (different car, same tyre dimensions as Oct3)

Solved - it was the failure of the tyre. Problem was getting worse so I ordered the shocks for rear yesterday, confident it was probably this. Bilsteins B4. I had tpms light on and tyre pressures fine. Checked tyre and shocks and spring. All good. Today after 70mph speeds tpms light came on a few miles from home, rear end felt really wobbly. Tyres again inspected. Rear right Dunlop tyre which is still holding air pressure has bulge in tread and cords exposed which wasn't there previously. Lucky car tyre didn't explode and lose control of car. 3mm tyre tread on edge and 4mm in middle. Car not hit pothole or speed bumps etc. 48th week of 2015. So, not 10 years old but evidently past its best... Ats has Michelin primacy 4 A wet grip , A on fuel and 70db lower noise. Good price too. Anyone recommend this or another? I got crossclimate tyres left on front axle and had 3 punctures, they are sticky tyres but even hawthorn flattened last tyre so I don't want them.

New EGR valve - sucking the vacuum hose hole on top pulls the valve up. Old EGR off car - valve would not budge. I couldn't move valve up from below with my finger, even with new EGR valve. Old EGR valve, despite being clean, the valve sleeve is probably coked up and not possible to get in there to clean. The Borg Warner EGR came with a gasket between the ASV and EGR I haven't had previously. I have the rubber o ring both sides of the EGR. The gasket is in addition to the o ring. Not there from new or in last EGR kit. No leaks. Photo shows coking under EGR valve that connects to metal Flexi that carries exhaust gas up into EGR Vs new EGR aside it.

I think you are probably correct Pete. I already bought one to fit in the meantime whilst I wrestled with my options. Interestingly, the ASZ EGR is double the price. I had a taste of the better mpg (unless trip computer is reading differently with EGR hose disconnected) and the hesitation has gone.

The N75 vacuum box - it sounds like it's coming from there. Happens mid revs every so often, 5 to 10mins. I'm limiting the car's use as it can't be good.

I think leaving EML on and blocking vacuum pipe might work, but I can hear a tyre like drumming noise mid revs - sounds like the vacuum pump trying to open the EGR. Might damage something? Also, I read this about testing for NOx on future MOT s published Jan 2023 https://www.gov.uk/government/news/proposed-changes-to-make-mots-fit-for-the-future Specifically, "The consultation also seeks views on the frequency of MOTs and how to improve monitoring of emissions to tackle pollution to bolster the environmental efficiency of vehicles. Potential new measures include introducing testing of pollutants such as particulate number (PN) and NOx to ensure diesel, petrol and hybrid cars always meet emissions requirements throughout their lifespan." Food for thought...

The blank does nothing that the EGR does not do itself basically? Thanks

It's definitely the EGR at fault. First time out with EGR disconnected. All the symptoms disappeared. Mpg improved with EGR disconnected, no smoke, not even a puff on starting. Got 65mpg on computer when I'd normally get 58 to 60mpg like for like driving. No smoke on flooring vehicle. I usually get some smoke near full throttle. Car warms up in the same with EGR disconnected as connected and seems to drive better. The EML took 2miles to illuminate and I cleared p3130 but same occurred on way home. I was only considering changing vacuum hoses as the mechanic has oversized the hole with a caliper banjo bolt! I guess he doesn't play golf! Ie no golf tees about...which was a good idea Breezy Pete. Good point Lofty about the tailored shape of the original vacuum hoses. I read the silicone hoses can stick to hot surfaces too, like in the engine bay! I'll give the silicone a miss. The brakes are definitely better with the vacuum hose to EGR blocked off. Less spongy. Any suggestions on why? A new EGR is £42 without gaskets, o rings or £60 with all bits which I'm going to buy. Is the EML able to be mapped out completely for an EGR blank? The EGR delete kit I've seen would be an obvious modification. What blanking plate would you suggest out of interest? What about the EGR cooler? Leave in place?

Yes, I'm going to keep bolt in place, mechanic said same thing as an experiment. Pete, will the disconnected EGR simulate an EGR delete. I'm interested in how the car differs to EGR connected eg warm up time, mpg, etc. Is it worth replacing the 16yr old vacuum hoses with silicone ones? Any benefit? Eg less pliable material when vacuum applied? Vacuum hoses The inner diameter is 6mm Outer diameter is 9mm The ones behind expansion tank and above EGR running under windscreen. If yes, any suggested total length to purchase?

Ok The EGR is disconnected currently. I have driven it home and the car boosts as it did do. Mechanic said it smoked badly. When EGR disconnected and bolt in vacuum hose no smoke, driver is thrown back in seat when accelerating (been 10miles). I didn't want to whip car as it was on cold start coming home, but I could tell it felt much better. Looks like the EGR. Garage said if the symptoms return then turbo , vnt, actuator is next on the list. EGR has been tested using vacuum and gauge and although diaphragm holds vacuum the plunger/valve is sticking and opens/closes at different time to the vacuum being applied. The turbo could be heard healthily boosting, no siren noises etc. On way home. Brakes seem to bite slightly better with vacuum hose blocked to EGR, but hard to say.

Ok. Personally, I've not had these symptoms when EGR last played up. Last time the EGR blocked up the car coolant took longer to warm up and the engine shook on idle. When at temperature after a commute and idling the cooling fans came on ( never had these on). Different symptoms this time. But the EGR previously stuck one way. Should it open and close only depending on coolant temperature? Both mechanics are experienced on VAG cars and one owns Skoda's. I trust them. If the turbo needed changing they wouldn't turn that work down. Vnt - the turbo blades I have heard the turbo noise (as usual on tick over), nothing unusual, so the turbo blades seem free to spin, whether the blades are adjusting pitch, I don't know. Actuator - Again I'm not knowledgeable enough. I've read that can fail (it has a vacuum line). Does this spin up the turbo on accelerating? If turbo, is it a new turbo or individual parts. I read it might be a KKK turbo, this one? https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/kkk-bv39-turbocharger-for-1-9-tdi-blt-pd130-ibiza-polo-fabia.html Actuator appears to be available as a separate item https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/kkk-vacuum-actuator-1-9-8v-tdi-engines-for-pd100-pd105-pd130.html What do you recommend is my next step? I'm about to collect car so any questions I should ask feel free to pose so I can ask. Thanks

Garage said the EGR is sticking between open and closed. I disconnected vacuum from EGR and checked with more vacuum tube that it held a vacuum and it did, before taking to garage. Garage said at low speeds it is more pronounced. They blocked the vacuum tube with a bolt and took it for a drive. It was as it should be, performance returned. This EGR has been on car 40k miles and cleaned every 8k miles. It was cleaned last November and just before taking to garage. I have my original one that blocked up and I cleaned, or I buy a new one. I'm sick of cleaning it to be honest and it seems that cleaning is not effective. Those rubber o rings between asr and egr are nearly £10 each which expand if cleaning solvent comes in contact. Is blanking and map out EML effective? I read up and it seems opinion is divided. Where is best place to get a new EGR if I go that route again? I bought from Skoda dealer the last one that failed. I read on here that the hole in newer EGR valves is larger - don't know if this is true, ie a superceded part? Thanks Ps at least it is not the turbo

What about the tandem fuel and vacuum regulator? It seems I'm getting lack of air though not insufficient fuel?