BennyS3
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Posts posted by BennyS3
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Thank you very much Sagalout and Penguin17. That is exactly what I'm looking for. That's a very long and detailed post penguin17 and thanks for taking the time to do it. I've never been good at keeping cars clean but now that I have this one, my first new one, I'll have to start.
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Your car is getting washed in the traffic film/salt/mud/crud from every other persons car. A few years ago when I was parked in Tesco at lunchtime, I seen my very first Jag XF in the flesh (they'd just been released), it was getting washed. The guy cleaning car was using a chomois or similar to get the water off the car. He dropped it on the floor and instead of binning the cloth and getting a fresh one, he just picked it up and carried on. Oooooft scratchy scratchy.
You should ideally wash your car with the 2BM (two bucket method), one for clean water/shampoo and one for rinsing your mitt/sponge. At this time of year you will probs need to change the rinse bucket at least once. Grit guards are also a good idea.
My usual process for a quick wash is:
Clean wheels
Snow Foam
Rinse
Wash (2BM)
Rinse
Dry (pat not rub) and use a quick detailer to reduce water spotting
Finish of with quick detailer all over body work
Clean windows/mirrors
Dry wheels
Dress tyres
A man I know has brought his Audi Q3 (registered July 2016) back to the audi dealer with rust on the wheel arches on both sides. The dealership blamed the salt on the roads and asked him how often he washed the car. He told them every fortnight. They said that was the primary cause of it, as the chemicals used by the car wash was corrosive on the paint and to not go back to that car wash. Unbeknownst to the dealership, it was their own car wash that they were talking about. They have a separate business attached to their dealership that valets cars. It does all of the cars in the dealership too... They're fixing it anyhow as it's under warranty.
So...... penguine17 and anyone else,
What is a good detergent to use on the superb?
You mention a shampoo, which one?
What is a good wax/polish?
Will using a power washer at home from a distance damage it?
And what is a grit guard?
I went into a motor factors today and they recommended the product in the attached photo.
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Congrats on the new car and best of luck with it! Did you get the additional 'lounge step' mats (basically raised wedge-shaped mats) for the rear? Also, are all the tools included in the spare wheel well? Don't think SD cards will be included. You're right to check everything, especially when a car was sitting in the dealers for a while, as its not unheard of for bits and pieces to be swiped from cars when dealers are under pressure getting other cars ready!
Sorry about delay replying. Yeah all the tools are there in the boot. I have 19" wheels that came standard on the l&k but I noticed that the spare steel wheel is 17" with a 50kph speed sticker attached. I'd imagine the limit is there because they are mismatched in size.
We got the lounge step mats too but I don't see the point of them at all.
I'm being as careful as I can with it until I get maybe 2000 klm (which should next week) but the temptation is there to put it into sport or hit the overtake button on the accelerator.
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You should have 2 SD card slots in the ‘head unit’ which is now in the glovebox (the ‘radio’ in the dash is just a screen).
The 1st aid kit and warning triangle are only supplied to countries where they are law to be carried (so not supplied in the UK)
There should also be a removable LED torch in the boot.
Thanks Gizmo,
there are two sd slots in the head unit in the glove compartment but what I was asking is should the car be delivered with the actual sd cards included or do I go out to buy them? Some members here spoke about updating the Navigation system themselves and said a specific sd card is required.
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I've picked up my L&K on Friday and im very delighted with it. Way more to the car than I expected. But, I think I'm missing some items.
I don't have a SD card of any type. From what I've read on here I'm sure I should have one at least for the Navigation system
I'm also missing some lockwheel nut covers, I've emailed the garage about that so I'm sure they'll get back to me tomorrow morning.
Would someone mind going through what 'loose' items should have been included when picking up the car. The only items I found lose in the car was the rear net cover for the boot and the umbrellas in each door along with the booklets and instructions in glove compartment. Should there be a first aid kit in the side panel in the boot where there is a first aid sticker or is that just a blank compartment?
Thanks
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Hello!
My wife was driving our 2016 Skoda Superb this morning and has had a series of error messages on the dash and is a bit scared! We have two young children in the back and she is not sure what to do!
The error messages that came up were:
Fault – Passenger Protection
Fault – Parking Break
And another one she can’t remember.
This now comes up on the dashboard permanently:
Anything too bad??
Some thing very similar like this happened to a Citroen c4 I had about 6 months ago. Very same warnings and the automatic hand brake stopped working but would engage manually. It turned out to be a faulty abs sensor on the wheel. The brakes were working perfect but the car wasn't receiving the signal from the wheels. It took a hours labour and a €29 part at the Citroen garage.
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Looks brilliant Superb170. I like the cream with the lava blue. I wish I could have gotten it myself but I'm incompetent at keeping cars clean.
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Collected it today :)
Is it everything you were hoping for?
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From a previous thread
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Good call on the D reg plates especially with a high spec car. Did you have any issue organising the D plates?
No. A Dublin address is all that is needed. So I've relations there and I'll give my name at their address. They will post the log book back to me when they get it. Then when taxing the car, I'll use the change of address section on the front of the log book and tax it in my local tax office. There won't be any extra owner recorded as it will always have been in my name.
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Good luck with the new one!
And good luck to you too Superb170.
Another reason I'm getting the D reg is that when trading again in the future, it gives me better options. Some garages were giving me bad quotes on a trade in because I had a MO reg. They said it would sit on their yard for too long and thus possibly depreciate too much before eventually selling. They simply didn't want the mayo reg. I chatted with one Dublin garage about this and he said the worst cars to take in were Donegal and Limerick registered
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Plenty of pics of course when you get it! I'm going to wait a day or two to collect mine as I don't like really low number plates which I know might sound a bit odd...
I'm actually doing the same. I'm getting a D reg on it and I'm waiting until the 6th to get higher numbers. And it's a Friday, for the superstition in me
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We didn't see it until we got home.
....possibly 3 or 4 different stages missed the damage......
I'm guessing in fact that it's the opposite. My take on it is that they saw it and hoped you wouldn't and by the time you would have noticed it a few days later they could claim ignorance and blame your side. I'm sure you don't want to dwell on it but it's hard to believe that it was given to you in that condition with damage on it unnoticed. I'm picking my car up tomorrow week and I'll be scrutinising every inch of it.
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I'm afraid I didn't take any close ups, it's with the dealer now.....but here's a zoomed in pic
That's bad and a very poor reflection on the dealer to let that out the garage door. You should be compensated for that damage, certainly getting money back for the car. Its possible the transportation did it if it has happened to other cars too. Keep watching the work over the next few years to make sure the new paint doesn't fade or crack where the repair work was done and seek a warranty on it for a specified amount of time
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A few people have asked for this thread, so here it is. I'm not a mechanic nor an engineer, but I do have a fair bit of experience in this area (on both ends of the spectrum) and am happy to share what I've learnt so far. More importantly, despite other threads existing on the topic it might be an opportune time for other TSI owners to chip in with their experiences. Please forgive my verbosity and any omissions.
Overall, I would start backwards by prefacing thus:
Despite fierce debate online, and many conflicting articles, I really don't think running in a modern engine is rocket science. In the good old days, the big old push rod engines were made by hand and would have a lot of 'hone marks' on the metal, including inside the cylinders. Bearing in mind there was only one kind of oil - mineral - and it didn't last very long, running in was quite a complex procedure. You needed to provide enough lubrication to stop the engine lunching itself, but not so much the new moving parts couldn't wear each other smooth in perfect mating unison. All that worn metal left thousands of tiny (and not so tiny!) fragments floating around in the oil, which would then call for a 'running in service' not long after you took delivery of the car. Being too gentle could result in glazed cylinders, badly seated piston rings and bore wash - all of which are bad and all of which would require a top end rebuild to correct. Conversely, being too hard on a new engine (or indeed any engine) will accelerate wear and can cause its own problems, including a life of drinking its own oil.
These days engines are (mostly) made by robots, which have a massively more precise output and are also infinitely more conforming. Engine 1 will be pretty much identical to engine 2, etc. In fact with modern synthetic oils, even after 150,000 miles one can expect the original factory honing marks to still be present and undamaged. Everything is built to such fine tolerances that the engine is perfectly 'just so' right from the factory. Because of this, many marques these days don't have any special running in procedure. They just advise customers to drive like normal and forget about it, and that certainly doesn't seem to cause any real problems.
VAG (including Škoda) do still include running-in advice, and as such it'd be prudent to follow it. Regardless of what the Internet says, the people who designed and built your engine are likely the ones who know how best to treat it. That said, nobody can pretend that Škoda manuals (especially) are very clear or detailed - especially when it comes to the topic of running-in. The guidelines are very general, open to interpretation, and - respectfully - often in some Czech version of 'Chinglish'.
Generally speaking though, the manual's suggestion involves not exceeding 3/4 of the rev range for the first 600 miles, and then progressively increasing the revs (including, shortly, trips to the red line when warm). The manual also advises not using full throttle, not labouring the engine at too low revs (manual gearboxes only, DSG would not allow this even in manual mode) and also not staying at constant speeds and revs for too long at a time during the running-in period.
This makes sense, as the end result is a drive that allows the new engine to warm up, and then uses most of its rev range to help 'stretch in' the new engine and its many components. You're not just bedding in one thing, but rather thousands of complex moving components, all mated together 'just so'. Luckily, due to the aforementioned excellent manufacturing processes you won't find lots of swarf in your oil any more, and a running in oil change is no longer mandated. Your engine, regardless of how well built, is still a new beast however - and still requires some TLC. Here are my own observations, and I invite your own!
- Make sure the oil is up to operating temperature (~80oC) before you start increasing the revs past around 2,500rpm.
- That said, once the car is warm don't be scared to use the engine. The worst thing you can do is 'baby' it and just drive it everywhere on the low end torque, never seeing over 2,000rpm. This will be almost guaranteed to cause you problems with seating the new piston rings and can cause issues with oil consumption in the future.
- As per the manual, vary the revs. Your new engine will still be 'tight', and that is something you will physically feel as you start to explore the rev range over the weeks and even months after acquiring your new car. For example, there will be a slight resistance/hesitancy/flat spot in the power when you reach (for example) 3,000 or 4,000rpm. This is the engine resisting itself (to put it colloquially), and a manifestation of the parts claiming their space and rubbing up against each other under high load for the first time(s). Gently push through it, but gradually.
- Once you get past about 600 miles you can consider the car mostly run-in according to the manual. At this stage, if you have managed to restrain yourself thus far (and I hadn't!) you can start to push further up the rev range. Perhaps 5,000rpm when accelerating, before dropping into a higher gear for cruising, then 5,500rpm or 6,000rpm the next time, and so on.
Repetition kills new engines (at least figuratively, if not literally - eventually). Even if you have to drive on a motorway during running-in (can't you hit 'avoid motorways' on the sat nav for the ride home?), at least vary your speed and revs. Provided the engine is warm, give it some beans in a low gear up the slip road, then drop into 6th for a short while as you get your bearings on the new road. Then drop it to 5th or 4th (still at 70), and after ten minutes drop back to 60 in 4th, or 3rd, and keep changing gear up to 5th/6th and back down again. You are aiming to keep the engine 'guessing', and to not let it sit too still for too long.
One important tip which all camps seem to agree on, no matter how they word it, is using the throttle to slow down as well as speed up, as much as you can. I don't mean full bore accelerations (though some do advocate this), but rather refraining from using the brakes as much as you can. This isn't actually anything to do with the brake system, nor the 'new' pads and disks. Rather if you're regularly cycling your speed between 30/40/50/60/70 (or more) and back again, doing it using 'acceleration sense' (i.e. by adding and removing throttle, without using the brakes) puts a lot of varying loads on the new piston rings, which in turn helps them 'seat' better against the cylinder walls. In the long run that will aid low oil consumption and prevent glazing. Belting down the slip road as you speed up to 70mph in 3rd, then taking off the throttle completely to allow the car to slow itself to 60 while you merge onto the motorway behind a HGV in lane 1 is one example. Sitting in lane one or two (as circumstances dictate) at 70/whatever in a particular gear, drop a few cogs and give it some beans into the next lane over, and then ease off the gas so that the car naturally slows itself back down, re-adding the power as you get towards 50mph so that you bring yourself back up to 70... all the while varying the gears and revs you're sitting in. That kind of thing.
Those of you lucky enough to have advanced driver training (IAM, RoSPA, emergency services) will already be ideally placed. Just take it for a brisk run out across your favourite routes, taking in plenty of B roads, some fast A roads and a lot of changes in pace and gradient. Firm, brisk, and smooth - but definitely progressive - are the order of the day. Every drive - certainly after the first couple of hundred miles - can be a chance to push the engine, and its rev counter, that little bit more. You will literally feel it loosening up over the days and weeks after delivery, just enjoy it. Soon (especially after the magic 2,500 miles) you'll have a nice smooth, relaxed and revvy motor.
You do have to bear in mind that not only is your metal new, but so is your rubber (tyres) and so are your brakes. That said, you can almost fully run-in a new modern car just on the way home, provided you have a decent and long enough route. It's always one of my great pleasures, and generally in our case involves a day out in Wales (well away from certain well patrolled main roads). Your tyres won't be providing optimum grip for the first few hundred miles, and your brakes will take time to wear in properly. A few firm stops can aid this, but don't plan them for when you are approaching that stationary HGV or a brick wall! ;)
In summary (again), just drive the thing. Let it get warm, don't purposefully abuse it or bounce off the rev limiter in 2nd all day, but at the same time don't be too gentle. In the past I collected a new (diesel) car and - being young and naive - didn't quite get the gist of the whole 'drive it like you stole it / give it death' ethos. Having read online how white vans and hire cars are generally the fastest and loosest things on God's green earth, I literally ragged the poor bugger from cold, right to the red line over and over, and thought I was doing tremendously well. Until, that is, I realised even a year down the line it was slow and wheezy off the line compared to my brother's (identical, collected the same day) car and that I always got about 5mpg less than he on the same drives. I'd knackered the poor thing. Don't mistake progressive and hard driving with a lack of mechanical sympathy. Provided you get it warmed up, keep an eye on the fluids, and don't treat it like it's made of glass, you'll no doubt end up with a fine specimen which rewards you with years (and many tens of thousands of miles) of trouble free service. Just don't be too scared of that gas pedal... or a loud, high revving trip or three. ;)
Remember, OEMs take new engines off the line and subject them to 'torture tests'. The poor things are strapped to a dyno - or into a sample car - and revved through the red line, and kept at full speed and load (V-Max) for many days and even weeks on end without ever letting off the gas. They must get through some fuel!! However, they test them this way to ensure that the engines are capable of taking sustained high speed, high load service for customers, without coming to any harm. So, compared to that, you can't really do much damage... again, provided you warm it up first! Here's a nice example from a Ford test to give you an eye opener to finish:
.Sorry this is so long, but I hope it helps give those who asked some food for thought. Feel free to add your own experiences, which - in these modern times - may well mostly echo the 'I just followed the manual and it's been fine' ethos. :thumbup:
Quoting Rainmaker from a different thread, breaking in TSI engines, how much of this can be applied to the 2.0 tdi 190bhp DSG engine? What's the best way to break it in....
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What is the oil type for a 190bhp DSG and how many liters required? (Is it the same oil for diesel v's petrol engines?) I haven't picked the car up yet but I think I'll unofficially change the oil after breaking in or 4/5000 kl. I know there are different schools of thought on both, whether the engine requires breaking in and there being no need to change oil but....
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Has anyone sourced a driver/passenger headrest with discreet integrated dvd players the rear passengers for the superb 3? Any recommendations? I know nothing about them so I might be clueless in saying I dont want any cables or wires exposed. There will be three girls in the back so I need two dvd players. And probably earphone jacks....
I have black leather seats. Is there a power source that can be tapped into internally in the seats? Or will it just be a case that when in use cables will have to be exposed?
(Car waiting to be collected)
Thanks
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Would someone mind putting up a picture of both steering wheels, before and after, so we have something to compare them with? I'm curious to see which side I'm on...
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I think it looks great. How much did it cost to wrap?
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Can you put up a picture? Will get a better response
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Is there a particular colour that shows the paint chips a lot more than others? Who has really bad chips on the paint and what colour is it...?
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All quite confusing...
The document I received with mine stated the box was pre-configured for my engine/model to produce 350 PS when the second rotary switch is set to position 0 (default).
Position 1 adds a further 21.5% boost and each subsequent position adds a further 1.5% up to a theoretical maximum of 500 PS.
Out of curiosity anyone, what would the racechip boost the 190 dsg engine up to? (If it's set at the pre-configured setting)
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Just found it. Adds 35bhp bringing it to 225bhp
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I know that in the past the Octavia and Superb had problems with water leaking into the wheel well through the wiper motor and/or poor seals. I'm after emptying the water from my own 2009 Octavia giving it a early clean before picking up the new car in January.
And it just got me thinking....
Have Skoda solved this issue? Does anyone have water in their Superb in by the spare wheel?
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VCDS options on Superb III
in Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)
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Can the intermittent speed on the lowest wiper option be adjusted by vcds? When on auto, I find that it activates too soon and is causing noise when drawing across the windscreen as there isn't enough moisture on the screen. I came from a 2009 octavia which had a much longer time delay. I know the speed of the car is taken into play but I'm comparing it to the normal speeds I did with the octavia.