Saints92
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Posts posted by Saints92
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9 hours ago, Ecomatt said:
Make sure you have a new map to ensure it works fine, as it will run more boost and may cause issues later on with excess heat. Better to be safe and make sure.
Yeah going to go once the lockdowns ended and I can travel across the country. I had it mapped before changing the turbo so worried something will now be off, but only travelling through town these days anyway.
Cheers.
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Just to end this.
Put new is20 turbo on, with genuine actuator on it, and actuator worked constantly and nobody could code it in.
Fit brand new is38 turbo on with genuine actuator on it, and it's working perfectly.
I removed an is20 from the car.
Can't explain what happened, or why it's now fixed, but there we go. Presumably car just wants more power so forced me to fit a bigger turbo.
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On 17/12/2020 at 21:42, Ecomatt said:
On my OBDeleven there is an option to resetting of learned values of turbocharger. You might need to reset the stored values before doing the basic setting.
Got an auto electrician out, and he can't find a problem with it at all, but it still fails adaptions.
He's now sayings its a problem with my ECU and I'll need to go to Skoda garage to sort it.
Madness. Car is costing me a fortune at this stage.
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3 hours ago, Ecomatt said:
I think there should be a live data for the actuator to see what voltage it is. I believe the basic setting is done through the turbocharger adaption. It might be worth contacting someone like darkside developments who are excellent and he might be able to talk you through the process.
Voltage comes up at 3.802v when idling, which I'm told is within parameters and should allow it to adapt. It just refuses to do so, and comes up saying the wastegate is stuck.
Can move the wastegate free with my hand.
Trying a brand new battery in the morning, if not I'll just have to spend money on an Auto Electrician to source the problem for me.
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14 minutes ago, Ecomatt said:
Has the wastegate been properly pre loaded as I know they are done by voltage rather than distance. It sounds like the wastegate has too much preload.
Any idea how I can check this?
Came from a turbo company in Glasgow I've used regularly through the years without issues. They've sent me two turbos and both do the exact same.
Switch ignition on, and actuator starts working back and forwards a small bit. Reading 65% roughly. Its now stopping after a while and I'm getting a fault code saying its stuck. Can move it fully either way with my hand.
Got VCDS and it doesn't allow me to do a basic setting for the actuator.
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Having a nightmare.
Fit a new aftermarket turbo, the actuator is constantly running trying to move and reads as stuck at 65%. Won't adapt. Can move it free with your hand.
Get a genuine turbo, plug it in, and it does the exact same.
Alternator has now randomly stopped working aswell.
New batter fitted. Same issues with both. Only fault code is to tell me the actuator is stuck at 65%, on two brand new turbos.
Zero idea where I go from here.
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On 11/11/2020 at 17:09, Saints92 said:
First topic I could fine, but add me to the small list of Mk3 Octavia owners needing a turbo replacement.
63 VRS petrol with 80k miles, started howling like a siren one day. Huge play in the shaft and i think it looks like a damaged fin from the photo I got.
Almost £1000 for a new turbo from a place in Glasgow, but they don't keep them in stock, so going to send mines away and hope it can be sorted.
For anyone interested, my wastegate was apparently completely shot and on the verge of disintegrating.
Just getting a new turbo.
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If anyone has any other suggestions, thinks the turbo fin looks fine, then ill be delighted 😂
Siren noise only appears when starting to boost.
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First topic I could fine, but add me to the small list of Mk3 Octavia owners needing a turbo replacement.
63 VRS petrol with 80k miles, started howling like a siren one day. Huge play in the shaft and i think it looks like a damaged fin from the photo I got.
Almost £1000 for a new turbo from a place in Glasgow, but they don't keep them in stock, so going to send mines away and hope it can be sorted.
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Through my work we've had 4, maybe 5, blocked heater matrixes due to the silicone bag exploding. You have to replace the matrix, header tank, and flush the whole system multiple times to resolve it.
Never come across a rusty matrix caused by not having the silicone bag, and honestly I'd be using a header tank without it if I bought a car with one.
Thats a really small sample size I've got though.
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On 06/07/2020 at 23:53, cheezemonkhai said:
For an extra £50 I would go main dealer unless you totally trust your garage as people have been known to do them wrong.
Why is an independent more like to do it wrong than a dealer?
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Just beware that the early mk3 VRS' are lower spec.
I've one of the first batch, while a customer at my work has one 2 years younger, and despite both being VRS' his has far more I presume came as standard.
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3 hours ago, flybynite said:
Yep, paper filter is perfectly fine unless you are well north of 300bhp
And "well north of 300bhp" in a FWD car is a bit pointless.
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1 hour ago, Ecomatt said:
Skoda should sort it no problem. They will just plug it in to their computer and it will copy the map to your car. Might be worth getting the other modules updated whilst you there.
Cheers.
I'll try and get in touch with the mapper every day from now until Monday, I'm just wanting to confirm with him it's the map causing the issue as he should really know exactly where to look for the issue, and then make plans to go to Skoda to see if they can revert it back.
Using my wife's car just to prevent any potential damage so can wait until I can get in touch with him if needs be.
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4 hours ago, Ecomatt said:
If had done 66k before you got it then there are two options here. Either this happened to the last owner and he/she sold it on and kept quiet. Or the car ran fine till the map was applied. I personally would get the car reverted back to standard so you have a baseline to work from. Perhaps run it for 500 miles and pull the plugs to check the colour of the tip.
4 hours ago, xman said:^^Agree
Yeah definitely feels like the best next step.
Seems like the place that mapped it is shut, just get a recorded message about coronavirus when I phone up.
Has anyone got any experience with getting a main dealer to revert it back to the stock map? Can imagine some places being funny about doing it but have zero experience of it at all.
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54 minutes ago, Ecomatt said:
I would get a standard map back on the car. Perhaps a fresh map from Skoda or anyone who has access to the database to ensure it is totally bacj to stock. Might also be worth getting any other modules updated at the same time whilst it is in. I would also get your car live data mapped to see what the car is doing under load.
It does seem odd it is always that one cylinder. How many miles had your car done when you purchased it?
Purely from memory around 66k miles, and I'm now about 10k on top of that.
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11 minutes ago, xman said:
As your car is burning some oil they could be essentially "wet' figures and may disguise bore wear. Borescope is next step to visually inspect.
I'd just got my hopes up it was fine aswell 😅
Tried our camera down the hole but its just a bit too big to fit completely down, the brief view I got with the light on the end of it made it looks fairly damage less down there, and my piston doesnt have anything burnt into/a hole forming, I've potentially been tricked by a simple reflection.
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2 minutes ago, xman said:
Just to remind you that you should be running 99 octane fuel on a remap. That reduces likelyhood of preignition (aka pinking).
Is this map from a well known respected tuner?
Only ever run the car on Tesco Momentum, even before the remap.
And he is incredibly well known around here and has been for decades. I got first hand experience off a couple of friends before I went to him and they were all complimentary of what hes done on their cars. Only issue is he might be closed just now as I cant get a hold of him.
Take it those compression figures are fine?
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Hopefully those compression figures are fine, the tester is a bit old and might have a small leak.
My boss reckons the figures are fine, and my issue is overfuelling. Suggests I go back to the company that mapped it and either get the map removed, or eased right off, to see if that affects it.
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Checked compression in cylinder 1 and 4.
2 and 3 coils are stuck in and cant remove them without breaking so waiting on new ones coming before doing that.
Cylinder 1 - ~150 psi
Cylinder 4 - ~155 psi
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1 hour ago, xman said:
Are the plugs genuine and the correct heat range, reach etc?
1st point of call is pressure testing (wet and dry). A borescope inspection camera would be useful to look for chamber damage and debris.
But I'd be resigned to the fact the head needs to come off for a proper appraisal.
Or simply sell it on. (Somewhat immoral in my book unless you declare the issue).
Plugs are NGK ones, ordered via the reg number from the local factors. I did wonder about them but I fitted them all at the same time, and only number 1 cylinder is showing any issue at all, other 3 looked perfectly fine which led me away from blaming them.
I wouldnt feel right selling it on tbh, not for how much someone would be paying for it.
1 hour ago, varaderoguy said:I think pressure test first.and boroscope...but oil washing past the cylinder head gasket is a good pointer that the cylinder will need to come out and be maintained. Spark plug will put up with abuse of oil in cylinder but eventually it will fail. Lets hope No1 doesn't have scoring on the bore.
I've got a camera at work that I can stick down to have a look, just be a case of getting time to do it when I'm there.
I had the same issue last year with the burnt out plug, but put it down to not changing the plugs before the remap. New plugs went in and everything started running sweet so thought I'd sussed it until now. If there has been a deeper issue this whole time then I suspect it's already too late.
1 hour ago, xman said:Further thought just occurred, if the plug works loose and oil gets up the threads, the plug loses its ability to dissipate heat to the cylinder head and will overheat greatly and possibly lead to preignition. Its important that the plug and cylinder head threads are dry when installing plugs, no grease to be used. And check the torque with a torque wrench. Maybe you should check the spark plug condition / tightness every 2-3000 miles if you arent going to investigate further for now
On further thought still, maybe the plug was simply not correctly tightened when you had the car mapped. Mapping may have made preignition more likely due to running hotter and damage occurred over a period of time.
The plugs weren't out for the map, which is daft thinking back. It ran for around 6 months after the map before I got the issue first, and that came after about 6 months of driving it without issue before the map.
I replaced all four almost exactly a year ago, 3 of them are still tight while number 1 has come loose.
So it goes.
Bought car - Feb 18
Remap - Sep 18
First burnt out spark plug - May 19
Second burnt out, and now slack, spark plug - May 20.
In total I've done around 10k miles.
The whole time I've suffered from excessive oil consumption compared to what youd expect, having to top up the dipstick every 3 months roughly.
I fitted the plugs again last night, and have down 8 miles and theres no sign of any fault. Which baffles me.
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1 hour ago, varaderoguy said:
Even more worrying from my perspective is the bit that was missing from plug no 1.....where has it gone? Has it gone into the cylinder? Have you managed to retrieve the broken-off part?
Sounds like the oil seals are on their way out. Oil on plug....never good - and shows distress on that cylinder. Compression test good first start....I think you will find its down on pressure - which means new piston rings as a minimum...
Couldnt find anything in the cylinder last year, this year when I shine a torch down you see a shiny spot on top of the piston exactly below where the spark plug sits. Cant see any debris but potentially been punched into the piston now.
Just find it curious the car runs perfectly between spark plugs getting burnt out, trying to figure out what's happening first. If the spark plug burning out is causing unburnt fuel to wash the bore and lift oil (if that's possible), or if the oil getting on to the spark plug is burning out the spark plug.
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Wondering if the oil getting onto the spark plug is causing the plug to burn out, causing the fault?
Is there a common fix for oil around a spark plug on these engines?
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Anyone got any ideas for this?
Only ever cylinder 1, completely burns out a spark plug every ~6000 miles. Other 3 cylinders are perfect.
Oil on the coil, and very slightly pooling around the spark plug.
Spark plug fitted a year ago unwound from the head without the use of a ratchet, despite being torqued in to the correct spec.
Cylinder 1 piston with oil residue on the top, and shiny point directly below spark plug.
Oil use is around 1ltr every 3/4 months;2/3k miles.
Going to try and get a compression test done tomorrow, but after a new spark plug is fitted, its trouble free motoring for ~6k miles until a misfire starts and plug starts burning out.
Swapped injectors and fault doesnt move, and also swapped coils and the fault doesnt move.
NGK plugs fitted, ordered off the reg numbers.
Car was remapped and driven for a year before issue started. Mapper doesnt understand why only Cylinder 1 would have issues if map was too aggressive but is willing to put it back to stock.
Absolutely horrible feeling it will be an engine job, one way or another, not what's needed financially.
Octavia Mk3 Turbo Failure?
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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I've only to pay for the one I've fitted, thankfully, as I work in the trade so got it through my work, no labour costs either.
Would've been a nightmare otherwise.