FollowingGhosts
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Posts posted by FollowingGhosts
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Mine has popped off in two spots before. Once on the bottom of the tank itself (remove wheel arch liner for that), the second time on the bulkhead
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Hi all,
I've got a 1.9tdi 2002 Estate with rear hand brake issues, the calliper is never disengaging properly but I don't think the cable is moving freely which isn't helping
How does one go about replacing the cables? Do I need the car particularly high in the air to do it and what do I need to do?
Thanks
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For the sake of feeling sheepish, it'd help if there wasn't a massive hole in the vacuum line going to the turbo actuator.
Tip: always double check the hoses
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Went to see a T4 that I spotted on eBay today but that was a bust.
it was a 1.9 that was apparently drinking water every so often (Not G12/G13, but water they'd been topping up with), had no service paperwork and no evidence for any oil changes in the last 6 years. I decided to leave it as there were too many unknowns and it didn't scream of being looked after.Are the later (2008+) connects any better than the early ones? They can be had for sensible money for the age and there are a few with FSH etc.
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If it means I'll get something better/more reliable, I'm open to the notion of something Traffic/Transit sized.
Basically my aims are 40+mpg extra urban, and fitting the bike in the back. The bigger it is, the more space I'll use. Though, LT35s are way too big for my road.
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My biggest issue with the Kangoo/Berlingo/Combo is load length. The maxi versions would fit it but then I come into the issue of price as I'm not wanting to spend the earth and then some. Equipment isn't much of an issue. Remote central locking would be nice, and electric windows, but they're not dealbreakers.
Ideally, budget is around £2500 for something that might be rough around the edges that I can tart up
I've got to get a GS500 which is 2.08m long into the back of it.
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The only thing with the caddies are they really push my budget. I'd have to settle for an SDI or a much more tired van than I could get equivalent connect for the same money. I could get a T4 but then I'm talking 90s-era everything and associated wear and tear.
45 minutes ago, fabiamk2SE said:The old Connects are nothing but trouble. Proper crap.
Are the connects really that bad? They seem to be fairly cheap
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14 minutes ago, Aspman said:
Would it be easier and cheaper to get a trailer?
I regularly get frustrated with my saloon but the economics of running a second car just for practicality don't add up.
Realistically, the Furby is on it's way out anyway. It's got endless little niggles building up and was a dog car before I got it and I'm hesitant to keep pouring money in
14 minutes ago, P6bJOHN said:A recently retired hearse? Always polished, never raced or rallied and lots of room in the back, even room to sleep if needed.
I've considered it, but they're coach built so insurance can be a bit of a pain can't it? also not sure a motorbike would fit in the back of it.
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Hi all,
Looking at small vans as an alternative to making my Fabia estate carry everything, and ideally need something I can get a motorbike in the back of.
The main contenders for a couple grand seem to be:
Ford Transit Connect (LWB should fit bike easily)VW Caddy (This might be a push)
Vauxhall Combo (Not sure I have much chance)
Kangoo/Berlingo/Partner (I've a feeling these are way too small)
Bike in question is a Suzuki GS500 so not the smallest, but equally not the biggest either.
Any recommendations, vans I've missed or general advice would be appreciated
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Just been out for a run in my PD100 and even after 10 miles or so of motorway driving it wasn't quite up to temperature. I think the problem is it's a big engine that isn't necessarily worked that hard pottering around so it struggles to get toasty on all but long journeys with the heaters going.
The bottom radiator hose was cold so it's not even that the thermostat. The water pump is a month old from VAG, done with the cam belt too so it's unlikely to be that.
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So, replaced the vacuum solenoid box with one from a breakers.
It didn't go into limp mode once on the motorway once this time. Even when I was in fifth and trying to coax it to. It seems to have more pull from the turbo too.
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7 minutes ago, bigjohn said:
That isn't normal
How about the hard pipes? The one crossing the engine bay to the other side is a regular fail as it passes over a vibrating engine. This has been added as part of the RHD "conversion" as the resi of the plubing originates from the near side (where the servo would be on a LHD
With the small hose off the T disconnected is it hissing/sucking at the T junction?
I followed the hose from the T off to the vacuum solenoid box and found that there is vacuum being held in the hose between the t-off and solenoid end
However, if I remove the hose from the T-off and leave it attached to the solenoid box, the solenoid box isn't holding vacuum, if that makes sense
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22 hours ago, bigjohn said:
You have a vacuum leak somewhere . Start at the T off the master cylinder vacuum feed -T piece with two large pipes which is the in and out of the brake vacuum + a small pipe feeding the vacuum system which usually crosses the bulkhead on a RHD car (towards the NS/ LHD side) and then goes down to vacuum solenoids operating EGR, Turbo and anti shudder valve. Disconnect (& reconnect) a pipe at a time and start the egine to see if you can feel the suck of the vacuum (or hear it) at each pipe / stage. Examine each pipe for damage including the soft and hard ones. The soft flexible ones rot and the hard ones can wear with vibration rubbing / wearing the pipe against something. See attached photo showing the piece of pipe chopped out of one of the hard pipes of my previous pd car with vibration wear - looks a bit like an orgen pipe. Produced similar turbo symptoms and shuddered on turn off.
Thanks, just checked all my hoses and they're all holding 20inHg happily so I don't think it's them
I've taken each hose off one by one.
I took the hose off between the T-off for the master cylinder and the solenoid box and that wasn't holding vacuum when the engine is off. Is that normal or is that a sign the box is done for and needs replacing?
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37 minutes ago, Jimbob2705 said:
Good to hear, I'm guessing there's no tools required?
My remember my old 182 was a bit of a fiddle and had a couple of T40 bolts which was always a pain
Bottom parts of the seat just lift out. The top parts you just need a screwdriver to release the catch holding them in place.
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On 27/12/2017 at 22:28, bigjohn said:
How about the vacuum between this and the brake master cylinder "T" off. Lots of hard and flexible pipes to fail
Does the anti shudder valve operate when you turn off
Finally actually checked this,
The car shudders when it's turned off, which I assume means the valve isn't working? Is this likely to be the main vacuum line from the brake servo side causing the issue?
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Have you checked all the boost hoses? A pop is often when it blows a hose off.
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What are your aims for the headunit?
Are you trying for stock-a-like? a 6CD changer? Ability to talk to modern tech? Single vs double din? etc.
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Update to say they were shipped quickly and I was sent a comprehensive guide on how to fit them as well.
Exactly what I wanted.
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There are a few schools of thought on this.
Part of it depends if the 1.4 has a VNT turbo where the vanes move depending on how much boost it needs.
Assuming it does, your options are:Shell V-Power and a heavy right foot
The Mr Muscle Treatment (there's lots on the forum about it, works for some better than others)
Forte Turbo Cleaner (goes in the fuel tank, works for some people better than others)
Removing the turbo, stripping it down and cleaning it
Replacing the turbo
Obviously, some of these options are far more expensive than others.
Do you use Shell V-Power already, or just supermarket fuel? The Shell stuff can make a big difference for boosting issues as they whack extra detergents etc. into the fuel.You can also try moving the actuator arm yourself to see if you can free it off. You can get to it from the top of the engine with a suitable poking implement
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Could you do £90 posted for a round number?
PM me and I can get payment sorted.
My lights are rather tired and I’ve been meaning to upgrade.
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My bike is only a Hondaa CG but spends it's life outside under an Oxford cover and isn't massively worse for wear
Seems the worst thing is not using it, as leaving it sat for a few weeks, I came back to lots of new rust etc despite ACF50. but it should brush off once it gets a bit warmer.
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I have a PD100 Estate and carrying crap around but with decent tyres get around 45-50mpg easily but it goes to the 60s when I'm on the motorway for long journeys
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Sounds like it could be the battery. Do the headlights work or anything when the ignition is on?
Does the interior light come on?Do you have a voltmeter to check the voltage of the battery?
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1 hour ago, Hawthorn654 said:
So, is this likely to be the cause of the boot problem then? I just seems at odds that yesterday the beeper didn't sound with the lights left on, and the light didn't come on with the door open, etc. but the boot still opened fine. I could be getting 5 with my 2+2 here, but shouldn't the boot not be opening problem be happening when the rest of the stuff to do with the door-microswitch is happening?
Thanks again
I'd be interested to hear how much a garage charges, my concern is it's a couple of hours of work fiddling around at least and labour isn't cheap.
Mine's been doing for the year and a half I've had my Fabia and opening one of the doors with a working microswitch fixes it every time. However, it will sometimes open from double pressing the unlock key, but other times won't.
I've a feeling it's an partially an assumption from the car that if none of the doors have been opened, then the boot should stay locked which makes sense when it knows when they're being opened and closed.
Mr muscle trick
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
Stripping the turbo is the 'proper' way but if it's not too bad you can have some success with Mr Muscle. It may take one or two goes (3 or 4 in my case) but it is doable.
If you look at the top of the engine, you'll see the EGR valve (looks a bit like a UFO), from the bottom of that there will be a metal pipe leading down and to the right to the top of the turbo with two 13mm bolts either side. That's the hole you're looking for. The bolts may need some persuasion after 14 years of being attached to the turbo and I'd highly recommend having some spares as you may well drop one and spares are pennies anyway.
You can then just follow most of the guides that all go along the same lines: push the tubing down to the bottom of the turbo and fill it up gently, leave it for a couple of hours with some actuator wiggling every 10-15 mins. Make sure you have gloves on, Mr Muscle is nasty stuff, and make sure you have plenty of stuff to wipe it up with as it does tend to try and get everywhere and there are bits it won't do any favours for.