FollowingGhosts
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Posts posted by FollowingGhosts
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I only ask as the forums with the same cars with golfs etc. say the dial sits at 90c which seems a lot higher than mine
I've only ever driven petrols before now and they all sat at around 88c with the thermostat kicking in and out
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Hi all.
Does anyone know what engine temperature should be on a 1.9 TDi?
I've logged a journey with Torque Pro and at bang on the middle of the gauge, the engine only got up to 76c and stayed around there...on a long downhill with no load, it dropped down to 70c
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If you have Windows 8 or newer, get a Dell Ultrasharp U2515 they're not the cheapest but they're excellent monitors
With the 200% scaling, it'd be more than big enough to show everything but not missing out on the detail and colours.
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I'm under the impression that actuating the VNT manually can help to minimise the issue somewhat.
In the 1.9 ATD engine, where is the actuator located so I can give that a go? I've google'd but am not 100% sure on the result.
I know ideally I need a new/recon turbo but it isn't really an option at the moment
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You can try Mr Muscle, it's never worked for me.
Is there anything that can work that isn't a new turbo or a turbo rebuild?
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Sticky turbo by the sounds of it.
I'm pretty sure you're right, I'm just wondering, I only put 1 bottle of Forte in despite the bottle saying 2 if there's a problem.
Is it worth putting 2 in, or should I just go for the Mr Muscle route?
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Hi all,
Getting the above and my car going into limp mode up hills.
I ran a bottle of Forte through it with 3/4 of a tank and it did seem to make a difference to performance but still going into limp mode at high revs if I'm hoofing it.
Is it worth doing it properly and running two bottles through, or should I go for something more drastic like the Mr Muscle fix?
I took it out today and managed to get into limp mode a couple of times, but it needs to be pushed a lot harder than it did. It used to start limping at 2500rpm but now limps af 3500rpm if it's feeling maladaptive.
Cheers
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Brand new so release agent still on these tyres needing some running in.
Do you know the pressure they are at?
Have you checked the tightness of the Wheel Nuts (bolts) ?
I've not checked yet, but will report back and check everything is as it should be tonight
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I think I might regard a Hyundai as more of a punishment than a present, did you upset that particular family member in some way?
Surprisingly, it was done with best intentions. Though, the person they bought it from was sending it to the scrappy at first.
It was great for the first 12 miles, then it killed a wheel bearing, and then the problems just kept happening...
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You actually paid money for one of those?
I say paid money, it was bought as a "gift" for me by a family member as my previous car (another godawful Hyundai) had been sent to the scrapyard months prior
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100£ or 1000£??? you can't get a that car less than 1500€ here in portugal... (i've just cheked)
My Ibiza doesn't worth it and I keep fixing, don't know for how long....
£100, €117 in your money
It was a tired old car, it had 60,000 miles and needed new tyres, a service, a good clean etc. I spent far too much money on it in the year.
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Had my last three cars for ten years each. They were already relatively old when I got them. I just keep fixing them.
Having had Hyundai's that are >10 years old, I can see why people would be inclined to bin cars like that.
With that age on them, the windows stop working, the central locking packs up, they start squeaking around corners, have even less power than they did to start with and the brakes tend to be iffy at best. Cars like that aren't worth it.
I paid £100 for a Hyundai Amica a year ago, a 2001 1.0 model, with aircon that didn't work, central locking that didn't work, electric windows that didn't work, a door didn't work, it managed to eat a brand new wheel bearing in the space of a year, was temperamental in the wet in terms of starting and an absolute arse to work on. Also, acceleration just about wasn't.
My Fabia on the other hand is lovely and I enjoy doing work on it because the car feels that it is worth the time/effort.
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That's helpful (with an SDi like the OP has) and not well documented. It's not so useful with TDis because 2500 in top is above the NSL.
If you let the car idle after revving to 2500, the alternator will continue to pump out ~14v. The lights will still dim if you turn the wheel at a stand-still but not as noticeably.
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You thinking "broken load sense wire"? I wasn't on the assumption that this had been ongoing for a while and the OP hadn't reported any "flat battery" symptoms.
I had both wires broken and never had a flat battery. The battery starts to charge if you rev the car over 2500rpm and will continue to charge then too.
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Hi all,
Got some brand new tyres today, GoodYear EfficientGrips but I've got a new problem with them too.
In the mile or two that I drove the car from the tyre place back to work, I've noticed that at low speeds, it makes an unusual, almost honking sound when making a turn. Car didn't do it previously with bigger tyres (too big) on
Any ideas?
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Ah, my mistake, didn't realise it was cutting out entirely.
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Have you scanned for fault codes? The car should have enough sense to log a fault even without a malfunction light
Does it reset itself if you turn it off and back on again? The cutting out can often be it going into limp mode from sticky turbo vanes. I fixed it on mine (I think/hope, it didn't go into limp mode today) by sticking some Forte Turbo Cleaner in the tank and giving it a good drive.
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Have you tried double clutching with it in netural? I've driven tired Hyundai's which were like that with first and it was a good enough work around...
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On the overboost issue, also worth checking the combined pressure/temp sensor (and associated wiring) down by the inner wing driver side just before the intercooler.
If the ecu doesn't see the expected pressure rising, eventually it triggers limp mode. Goes really well up to that point though
...and it should be obvious if its seized if you give the vnc lever a wiggle
It only ever does it when the engine isn't quite warm.
Where I live means I go up the same hill to work every day and it's to within a couple of hundred yards of the same spot that limp mode always kicks in, goes like the clappers aside from that though.
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Just a quick update on problems/fixes and a thanks post.
Most of the noise I think is coming from the tyres which are too big, new ones are going on on Saturday.
Both alternator wires had snapped, that's now fixed.
New aerial base ordered.
Seat is better from being raised up a bit.
Haven't bothered with the door microswitch yet though
Newest issue is the turbo causing overboost and sending it into limp mode, I've put some forte turbo cleaner in and I'm hoping that does the trick on that front./
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Hi all,
Just wanted to check something.
I logged into my cluster earlier and it left the immo light on and a key that wasn't coded to the car was able to start it, whilst the immo light stayed on.
Is it normal behaviour for logging into the cluster with VCDS and the SKC to temporarily disable the immo? After leaving the ignition off for 5 mins, it was enabled again....
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The Forte Diesel Turbo Cleaner is meant to be really good. Redex I don't think works as well, even if it's just from a quantity perspective, there's less of the stuff.
Have you given it an italian tune-up? The PD engines love to be driven. My Fabia has come alive from letting the revs go high and driving it hard.
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Hi all,
Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement aerial base for a 2002 Fabia Combi/Estate?
I've had a look on ebay and they look right but there's a huge range of prices...
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A little bit off-topic but are you sure you need the roof box for Uni?
I moved to and from Uni in a little Hyundai Amica, admittedly, packed to the roof and I was wedged to the steering wheel but it is doable.
17965 Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted · Edited by FollowingGhosts
So, finally got around to doing it, and about 100 miles later, limp mode seems to have cleared up. It's done it a couple of times since but significantly less so, and those times have gone from 3-4x in a journey to 1x a day at a push. It revs more freely and drives better too.
When I was doing the treatment, I kept moving the actuator and it went from really stiff and clunky to smoothly sliding up and down.
I've stuck another bottle of Forte turbo cleaner in as I had it in the boot and it might help dislodge anything that got knocked loose by the Mr Muscle, but all seems good, touch wood.