spk
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Posts posted by spk
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Quite a debate going here!
I also talked to Steve at the garage I use (Statllers, pretty well known in my area) about swapping the standard air filter on my 3.6 vr6 for something else and was advised it wasn’t worth it as the standard air box is from the 2011-generation RS3 and is already good for more power than the standard 3.6 v6 engine makes in the Superb or R36. Parts-bin engineering on the Superb v6!
That from someone who could have easily sold me a more expensive part as he was replacing the air filter anyway I considered honest advice.
I (or rather adifferent VW specialist) did put a K&N panel filter into a mk3 Golf GTI I had many years ago as I was doing about 25,000 mostly motorway miles a year at the time, servicing every 10k miles. It seemed better to clean rather than replace every time. It was removed after a couple of years because of problems with dirt being deposited on the (I think - it was a long time ago!) air flow sensor. Perhaps it was over-oiled, or not enough oil? Or maybe something else intoducing dirt? No way to know for sure now of course but it seemed to cure the problem at the time.
I’m interested to hear how @vborovic gets on with the K&N over replacing the paper filter and if there are any positives or negatives!
Cheers,
Steve
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3 hours ago, TheRobinK said:
Shorts (brief electrical burn) and electrical fires have an acrid smell - so I would say you have had one of those. I'd get the car checked out ASAP.
This ^^.
Had the micriswitches for the indicator stalk in my old mk3 Golf GTI short out and had the same experience. Mk2 SuperB still seems to have the same stalks...
Wisps of smoke and burining smells on a dual carriageway with no hard should isn’t fun!
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I’m glad you got it sorted out @Wile7 but that price is a little painful. I’ll be going to Switzerland in 2020...better start saving now!
It’s quire fascinating seeing the engine out - certainly a big old lump!
So none of the parts that failed on your engine have a preventative maintenance service interval? I’m pretty sure the chain is inspection only and has been since the days of the 2.8 and 2.9 versions in the Golf and Corrado VR6! I guess that makes sense as it’s not going to degrade like belt but will wear over time.
What I would be really interested to know is if the garage inspected the inlet manifold for carbon build-up and what they found. It seems to be a problem that’s affected the FSI engines over time, particularly the 8 cylinder 4.2 used in some earlier Audi models. I’ve no idea how widespread the problem might be as it’s usually the people who’ve had a problem that post on owner forums about it and I’m not sure how close it is to the vr6 but as I’ve just ticked over 100k miles, I’m quite interested to know if it’s likely to be affected at some point!
Cheers,
Steve
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Hello!
Looks very nice indeed! Deep colours like that seem to suit Skodas
For the spec list, there should be a sticker by the spare wheel well in the boot and also inside the front cover over of the service booklet I believe. You can look them up somewhere like this site: http://vag-codes.info/vag-option-codes
You might also want to check out the model-specific section of the site for your Mk3 Octy if you've not already
Cheers,
Steve
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I guess I'm a little behind here - but 530NM?! How does it handle putting that down?
Cheers,
Steve
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TCR series doesn’t seem to have lasted long then! Is this series effectively dead in the U.K. for the next 12 months then?
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10 hours ago, JamesBrown said:
Maps now updated... load of hassle, 10+ attempts gave up hope but left disc in machine as it lost the original maps...and needed the disc to work...only to find it did randomly update successfully while my wife had the car at work...result! The local Little chef that shut down 7 years ago has now gone from the POIs and the map now matches reality!!
Now to work out the logic of the SD card - some songs work, some don’t - no apparent differences.
Remap paid for and planned in next 2 weeks...
I really need to get this done...did you use the Octavia update CD?
Also, if your remap doesn't happen or you decide you could talk to Statller Power Developments in Sheffield. That's where I've had my 3.6 v6 serviced and worked on at least @bonelorry's Golf R and Golf Edition 30. They also have a Golf with around 650bhp so can probably advise on getting a little more boost...
Cheers,
Steve
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Commiserations Dave, at least you've found a mechanic who's an enthusiast for the vr6!
17 hours ago, Wile7 said:It looks like a failed chain tensioner sadly so I’ve given the go ahead to drop everything out and take a look....replace everything chain related and, if needed, the DMF and clutch (will try to find some upgrade goodies as we go...). That’s this years Christmas/birthday fund gone (and next years as well....).
I have to say, without a fault light or obvious power delivery issues I've no idea how you would know the clutch needed work with a DSG box. Still, if there's a big labour charge and the engine etc. is out I guess it makes sense to ask them to take a look...?
Cheers,
Steve
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On 02/06/2017 at 21:54, gav_is_con said:
Glad I asked now. I have front and rear electric seats. Rubber mats all round inc boot/estate. Park assist. Speakers say sound system. Not sure about LED lights though.
I'm somewhat intrigued what electric rear seats entails...?
Cheers,
Steve
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4 hours ago, Wile7 said:
Hi gents. Update. Local garage think it is the timing chain, or more specifically, a failed pulley or chain guide.
I'm unsure because he (my car) only has 104,000kms on it and at idle there is no unusual noise, but it has got a bit worse today on the drive to work.
The mechanic I spoke with at the garage showed me photos of his own 3.2 Audi engine in bits (he loves the VAG petrol cars) and had the same issue with a failed 'plastic' guide for the chain....VAG know about some sub-spec components apparently but like many things its all hush hush.
I've read up a bit and there is much talk about certain 2009/2010 bits and bobs failing on VAG V6 petrol units....the flip side is that there are many 3.6 cars here running with the Suisse Gendarme with over 350,000 kms on them (but serviced weekly I imagine...IYKWIM).
Saga continues....but I've parked mine up for the moment just in case (until I make a decision).
Thoughts on a postcard please?
Don't think I have much useful to add other than I'm very interested in what you find out, particularly as I'm less than 1900 miles from the next service which will also be a major and the 100,000 mile service.... I'm keen to pre-empt any mechanical issues if there's better replacements available
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I’be had a rattle that I’ve mentioned on here before that was almost impossible to place the location of. Dash or driver’s footwell is one place it sounds like from in the car but it was actually the fuel lines which apparently ‘rattle’ against the chassis at idle.
Miggt be worth asking about at your next service if you’ve not tracked it down by then. Seems to a known issue with the B6 platform.
Cheers,
Steve
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Presumably you're looking to replace your standard wheels?
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hi op,
Echoing what's already been said really...my Superb v6 has passed 97,000 miles in less than 6 years today and it seems quite happy mechanically. The driver's foot well light did briefly go out on the way home tonight. Other than that, everything seems fine and still pulls extremely well. Statller's in Sheffield agreed it was mechanically very good when serviced earlier this year so I don't think there's anything to worry about as long as you don't skimp on your servicing.
Cheers,
Steve
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Hello,
So interested in doing the upcoming track day (or another later one) having never done one before. I've just got a few questions about what I need to do in advance to be ready?
1. I see insurance mentioned. What do most people do about this? Is it something you need to call up your insurance company and get something special for the day? Is it a hard requirement?
2. Helmet - can these usually be hired on the day?
3. Wheels and tires - best to bring something just for the track and swap them in the garage at the start of the day?
4. Any other paperwork usually needed other than driving licence?
That'll do for now. Thanks for any advice!
Cheers,
Steve
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I'll bite as no-one else has! As you can see I've not driven on a track so this is based on what I was thinking I would do with my car starting out on a track.
Personally, I was thinking I'd use sport mode rather than the paddles to start with so I can learn the track or course without having to worry about the paddles. I would focus on getting the line around the course right, then worry about gearing because I think you'll lose more time getting the wrong line that you will with sport mode handling the gears. S on the 3.6 v6 keeps the car nicely into the torque band and never drops out of it, even if you're sat at 70 so I think it'd be quite effective.
I personally also find the paddles can be quite awkward to use when you're turning fairly tightly for some reason. I think some extensions to the paddles would solve that though.
Cheers,
Steve
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@BossFox What's the cut off date for booking onto this?
Having never done any kind of track day before, part of my thinks that I'd be in the way of more experienced drivers however no public and instruction available seems like a much better place to start!
I'd also have to drive the Superb, as not yet acquired any kind of "toy" car. I think I'll make another post for my newbie questions and if I should do it or not.
If not this particular time, is watching out for another day like this the best way to start out with track days?
Cheers,
Steve
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Also the case that my Superb came with the "pigtail" but not the plastic cap puller.
I'd recommend getting a couple - I've broken the first one I've got fighting with the covers in the cold.
I'd very much like to get rid of the covers but obviously don't want the bolt heads especially the locking nut to corrode either. Maybe there's a decent replacement bolt option that's still steel or as good as steel bolts?
Cheers,
Steve
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The WD40 'fix' seems to have lasted a bit less than 10 days.
Sounds like the only real fixes are disable the locking or replacing the mechanism...?
Cheers,
Steve
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17 hours ago, roynhayley said:
Hi had this on mine just after I bought the car..........so frustrating, the lock should work stationary or moving .took it to the Stealer "couldn't look at it today but they could do it tomorrow, but it would cost £70 for the hook up"...so went onto ebay and bought two switches for £30 bingo it works now. Please note it is item#4 and they are handed, easy 5 minute job to do yourself, I think they were about £25 plus vat from the dealers, hope this helps. I found that a firm push would activate/deactivate the lock, of course the interior door handle will also override the lock.
So both switches had failed on your Superb?
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I'd have to agree with @Wile7 about the 3.6. I have just been keeping a bit more of an eye on the fuel recently - as of 22nd September, I've had it for a year and put about 16,000 miles on in that time!
I started calculating fuel then decide I didn't want to know
The amount of miles I've done has made me think that I should keep an eye on it though!
My only issue is that I've found the fuel hatch release has started to stick (as experienced by others on mk2 Superb from around 5 years old) which is quite annoying. The only thing I wish I had was the panoramic sunroof!
cheers,
Steve
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On 16/09/2017 at 18:33, sadgit1 said:
Funny I get around 36MPG on a long motorway/A road trip, about 32 if I select the sport setting on the gearbox and give it some beans.
Yes around town its thirsty, I can live with that but the Road Tax is a KILLER!!
Interesting - do you have the facelift version? I've never had the optimistic MPG reading on the car report as high as 36mpg on even my longest motorway drive sat at 70 with the Mrs...
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I've also had this problem last night on my 2011 Superb when trying to fill up to get home from work.
Luckily a quick bit of searching on my phone and the idea of gently pressing on the filler hatch door whilst unlocking the car released it. Pressing firmly didn't appear to help. In all cases when pressing on the filler door I could feel the mechanism trying to do something each time. It seemed only the gentle pressure helped. After that it seemed to work normally.
Rubber seal around the locking pin looks fine to me so I'm not sure if there's been much water ingress without dismantling stuff which I don't really want to do right now.
On 11/01/2017 at 21:25, silver1011 said:I had the same issue. Once the flap was open I squirted lots of WD40 on and around the little spring loaded push button and then clicked it in and out manually with my finger several times to work the WD40 into the mechanism. Been fine ever since.
I think I'll try this approach, possibly with some silicone spray lube if such a thing exists!
Cheers,
Steve
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On 03/09/2017 at 17:09, BossFox said:
we've gone for the VW Motorsport Golf GTI TCR car, well proven over the last year in many TCR series.
It'd be interesting to know how much road-going Golf GTI is in there...
looks great, good luck with the racing.
Cheers,
Steve
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41 minutes ago, S00perb said:
Only been to the passesnger door a few times - it worked
just realised my 'locking' process was flawed - you can't hold the handle and put your thumb on the lock area and expect it to lock! DOH!
There's also a feature whereby you cover both sensors to allow you to check that the door is locked. That might account for the failure to open you described...,
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Just put a deposit down on a 3.6! Advice appreciated!
in Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015)
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I wish I’d know this when I bought mine but then again, if it really made much difference then I wouldn’t be able to afford the fuel bill either!
I think that’s a good price. You should get at least a 12-month warranty. I’m told that Skoda UK will not offer more than 3 months on a car with more than 72k, so at such low miles etc. it sounds a good deal.
I take mine to an independent specialist. Ex-Porsche Master Tech rather than Skoda I believe but I’m not expecting anything warranty-wise at over 100k miles and nearly 7 years old.
Cheers,
Steve