vborovic

From the top off my head, I think there is an offset option that goes both ways, something like -10 to + 10 litres ... to be used with extreme caution of course.

In any case, I'm less stressed while driving a car with a proper fuel tank, compared to a car with only the batteries, since you can't just sip extra electricity from a jerry can ... 🤣

Maybe on paper, I've had the car on 0 miles remaining, fuel needle fully down, wondering if the car would even start or die of fuel starvation, and it could never accept more than 54 liters (maybe .20-.30 +, at most). I don't know where the missing " 6 liters" are in that case ...

The actual tank capacity is 54 litres on the Mk2 ... On another note, I'm happy If I manage to squeeze 500 kms out of mine (bit of a heavy drinker the car) ... 😅

Maybe this can help you out (read from that point onwards):

Easily configurable on such systems, you could probably import your custom picture as well. You can learn more about the headunit here: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-zenec-ze-nc2010_p-23719.htm

Recently I had some radiator issues on my Superb ... luckily the level sensor in the coolant container works, so it started detecting that the coolant level was too low. So, naturally, you just top it off and continue driving ... and such a fix held up for a week or two. I never found any coolant anywhere in the engine bay or under the car (and no, it can't just evaporate without any trace). So i figured the coolant container must be leaking somewhere, since I saw some scale traces on the sides , and some coolant drops on the bottom, like there was some leak on it, which gets active with the increase in system pressure. A few days afterwards, the coolant error came once again, and it started appearing more often. Did some close inspection, and found out that the radiator was leaking, ever so slightly, on the bottom right front facing side (you could see it through the bumper), and this was the obvious leakage source. Replaced the radiator, topped up the coolant and was happily driving until two days ago. Started the car and was greeted with the well known message that the coolant level is too low. Topped it up, and saw a coolant puddle appearing below the car after starting the engine (some half liter went down over a few minutes). I was confused, since all the apparent sources of leakage were inspected and fixed (previously all the hoses were checked, just in case - no cracks or any other visible damage on them). Well, the hood (bonnet, for you brits ... ) was up once again, and I tried to find the source of leakage, and this time it couldn't be a small one judging from the amount of the coolant that leaked within minutes. After some time under the hood, the issue was found - the radiator coolant hose adapter which connects to the cabin from the engine bay (under the windscreen). The culprit was the plastic connector, which, over time, failed to properly seal, due to various whatever-it-was that was slowly accumulating over the rubber o-ring inside. The connector is a Y-shape element, and luckily, it structurally failed on the smaller hose when dismantling (literally fell apart), which meant the adapter definitely had to be replaced (without that failure, I'd probably just replace the o-ring, without paying much attention to its general condition, which was concealed with the hoses). I've managed to figure out the OEM part number by doing an online search (the connector is widely know as a "pa66 gf30", which is imprinted on the adapter body, although you'll hardly get the proper part by that alone). The part no. in question (mind you, a 3.6 CDVA engine) is 1K0122291C. Prices vary, I've managed to obtain a new one (Febi Bilstein mfc.) locally for roughly 4 GBP (you'll find a MSRP up to 20 or 30ish GBP at some online shops). It helps for the procedure if you have smaller hands and proper tools. The only thing that was taken off under the hood was the air inlet hose that goes from the air filter box over the engine to the air inlet valve/flap. The car is now 13 years old, with 223.000 km on the clock. Not sure if these adapters are known to fail/degrade as it was in my case, but I'd suggest to anyone having a similar age car to inspect this part before it disintegrates/melts/crumbles/whatever in the coolant hoses, making the repair that much harder. P.S. The smaller, missing head piece of the Y- element was still stuck in the thinner hose (which connects to the coolant fluid container on the upper left side of the hood), and was successfully pulled out with a screw that was screwed into it while still stuck inside the hose. The thin cylinder part was basically dust/gunk that was stuck to the sides of the hose, and had to be dug out.

I did the swap on my car today. What I've noticed is that on the light car colours, the new lights black base colour better complements the car as opposed to the genuine indicators clear plastic (makes it better looking and more in sync with the wing mirror black base).

Not shown on the photos, but the car does have 2 plastic plates covering the left and right side, from the front to the rear wheels. Approximately, 75% of the middle underbody is protected by them. Not sure about the other variants, but since my car has a 3.6 engine (two exhaust pipes, two cats etc. and the 4x4 system, maybe there aren't full body plates available for it, rather two separate ones - for each side of the car, the middle portion left open).

... me being the owner just for the last 4 years. Anyways, I've decided to share an update with the people here, in case some of you are wondering about the rust and the underbody on the Skoda Superb II, aged 10+. Two weeks ago, my car's wind-shield and a rock the size of a golf ball met at 130 km/h, guess which of those got the short end of the stick. To be honest, after the initial hit, I expected major cracks on the wind-shield, but it wasn't as bad, and it was in the lowest possible spot of the wind-shield - I could've probably driven some more around with it like that. But, since I've already prepared myself for repainting the roof of the car (some damage to the very edge of the roof towards the front, couldn't be repaired/painted without removing the wind-shield completely), I've decided to take the plunge and have the car "refreshed" a bit - something I've decided on a long time ago, but was aware that I'll be without the car for almost two weeks, and never had the time to do that before. The car now has 208000 km, nothing major regarding maintenance, just regular work done by myself (including the gearbox and Haldex oils). Some bushes and joints have been replaced though, on the front and rear suspension (due to rattles and thumps while driving). What I've decided on doing was to have the hood repainted (small scratches, chips and rock craters on it, nothing major, but ruined the front end of the car if you have a keen eye), the roof (already explained) and the rear bumper (because the clear coat started to come off, probably due to pressure washing, and I've had several hits to the rear and the paint having a circular like crack - looked funny, probably a car reversed into me and slightly bent the bumper, the plastic was ok, but the pint chipped in a circular fashion), including the side-skirts, and the rear wheel arch towards the rear passenger door (some damage to it as well, the previous owner "fixed it" like a 3-year old would). The new wind-shield is genuine, didn't want to go with cheaper ones, because the genuine one proved its sturdiness on multiple occasions, even survived a rogue toll ramp which came down on it and nothing broke (except the ramp). I've also asked the garage to do some touch-up/polishing of whatever they can do with the car while it is there. After they lifted the car, and started doing work under the car, they suggested to bitumen coat the underbody of the car - completely. Mostly due to rust. Yes, sadly, rust started to appear (not much actually, if you consider a lump of metal being on the road for 12 years). The secondary benefit of this procedure (which is yet to be tested, since I'll be picking the car up tomorrow) is lower road noise, due to the bitumen coating on the wheel arches and below the entire car. Bottom end - 8kgs of bitumen was applied to the car. If the thing ever catches fire, the wheel arches will be last thing standing ... 🤣 The photos show the "show", so enjoy.

Taking into consideration that the wires/connectors are fully working (if you have a multimeter it is a simple test), I don't think it would have anything to do with the fuses. What about the steering wheel's coding? Sorry that I can't help you more regarding this, it was almost 2 years ago that I finished it (and I too spent months solving the issues/ordering parts one by one until I've finally reached the working situation).

It was 5E0971584A, the horn wire was missing.

As the title says, I've recently managed to find a fair priced BT module, part no. 3C8 035 730 D (the Novero, with the external antenna and the WiFi hotspot capability). The wiring loom was ordered half a year ago and was listed as plug&play. I haven't exactly studied the documentation in detail, I did watch several YouTube clips where people did the same to the similar cars (i.e. Tiguan, Golf, Octavia), however not once have I seen a pure plug&play situation, at least some modifications were required (switching some wires on the quadlock, adding the 12V wire to the BT module, etc). Well, I decided to try and see where I'll get stuck with my setup. I also decided not to place the cables as the factory setup, since I'll have the BT module out in the open under the passenger seat (steering wheel on the left) (didn't get the mounting plate and plastic cover, or at least the styrofoam enclosure). The wiring loom I got consist of the quadlock, with all the wires and smaller connectors, two different mic inputs (depending on the head-unit type: RCD-31 or RNS-510), genuine Parrot microphone that will go to the ceiling, and the genuine external rectangular antenna. Long story short, everything worked plug&play, I didn't event had to use VCDS (even though, later on when I did use it, the 77 - Telephone module was not enabled in the CAN Gateway, however, everything was fully working regardless). The main cable to the BT module goes through the central console next to the gearbox and under the passenger seat. The microphone cable goes from the ceiling, following the passenger side A-pillar, under the dash, squeezed the cable under the plastic trims below the door sills. Same applies to the external antenna. Used a lot of fabric tape to fix the wires/cables, some plastic zips and a velcro strip attached to the bottom of the BT module to keep if from moving (which does the job nicely). What I can do now, how can I use it? The phone in question is HTC U12+, everything is working as expected (I didn't use the option that the car's module takes over the SIM, the call is just being routed from the phone to the car). Since the phone is a dual-sim, I can't select the second SIM as the outgoing call (then again, I have yet to see a head-unit capable of doing that), the maxidot displays the Phone option and all the info (no coding was required), the Phone button/tab now actually has some use on the head-unit, I can use the voice control feature (it is even possible to toggle between the categories: Radio, Map, Navigation, Media, ...), and what surprised me most, regarding the Bluetooth audio streaming, while the YouTube is playing, I can use the forward/back buttons as well as pause, so you can have a nice playlist of music loaded on a YouTube channel, and then simply navigate with the steering wheel buttons ... the channel name is displayed as the artist, the YouTube title as the song title ... no complaints). The car is now a little more functional, can't believe I've managed to drive it for a little more than 2 years without this ... 😂 (had it in the previous car). The photos follow. A test run (just to see if everything is all right, before pulling the cables through the car) Work begins

Fair enough, but the 200+ km/h is where you see the real difference, when the car still has extra horses to make that pull ... 😂

Which photos do you need? I just did another DSG oil change today, so I have fresh photos available. If you need the oil pans, I'll have to dig around my photo archive ... BTW, good decision on my side to do the oil change after "just" 40.000 km, the DSG filter almost disintegrated ... don't ask me how, was shocked to see how it looked like after taking the filter housing off ... 😲