Gt4thomas

Passenger side now working spot on, with the same relay bypass method.

eBay intercooler still going strong

Take out the glovebox and there's a grommet behind it. Comes out by the abs pump in the engine bay.

Solution

Passenger side to do next. The only thing that i would like to add is some kind of end of travel detection. But having working windows after not being able to open a window for 3 months is amazing.

If you have tried replacing every part on your electric window system and still no luck?, well i decided to bypass it altogether. Start by bypassing the motor relay inside the housing (6 clips to undo) cut the legs so they no longer connect the relay. Then run two wires from the power/ground in to the motor connecter below the relay. The motor power and ground are the thicker end wires on the plug (drivers side) . (Red/white stripe positive) (Brown ground) Then wire your chosen dpdt window switch pictured below. Now you will have working windows. You wont have auto up/down or end of travel detection, but you will have windows that go up and down via a switch. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9rXrfv4TaeX9joqL8 Credit to Wino, Ferrit

Don't pay those outrageous (i saw you coming so...) Prices. Just some good quality silicon sealant from b&q will do the job. Take off the door card and apply it over the original foam seal. Plenty of YouTube tutorials.

I wouldn't like to go too big, without looking at the master cylinder. I don't know if a bigger one is available to swap in on the mk1 Fabia.

Its worth replacing if you plan on keeping the car

I bypassed the relay so will get power direct to motor. Just waiting on some more bits from china.

I reused the bolts for the oil filter housing, just new gasket. No coolant or oil leaks at all. You will need an M10 male spline drive and an 8mm allen if you're changing the coolant pipe.

The lift off oversteer is pretty fun at low speed, if you bring it on yourself.

Ill be removing the oil filter housing today and refitted the coolant pipe. Just make sure both matting surfaces are clean before the new gasket goes on.

Can confirm oil filter housing will have to come off if you need to replace the coolant pipe. Mine was held together by dust.

Glad you got it done. Ill attempt with oil filter housing in place. Yeh some of the bolts look annoying to get to. The vacuum canister does have an overkill bracket some some reason.

Top dead center is the point when piston 1 is at its highest point, and on the compression stroke. Assuming piston 1 is first in the firing order. Make sure the cam locking pin is FULLY inserted, in the "guide" picture its only half in!. Im pretty sure the water pump has an o-ring please don't cover it in silicon.

I don't have an oil leak. Its a coolant leak from the that hard pipe the runs along the side of the engine. Did you attempt to remove the coolant pipe without removing the oil filter housing?. It looks like it will come out. But i have the oil filter housing gasket now incase it has to come off. Part number 045-115-441 Did you have much trouble changing the pipe?.

Greatly improves the turn in and reduces understeer on the car. I have a white line one on my vrs (on the hard setting). You can actually enjoy a roundabout. Although the powder coat has come off after 2 years.

Well i made a small interrupt circuit. It was wired so that while the switch was pressed the main motor power would be disconnected. Didn't work 😔. (Put in a little tac switch and everything) The quest continues....

Wait until it arrives see what you get in the box.

Most aftermarket car stereos come with the metal cage. There are multiple tabs that need to be bent outward once the cage is in place. You will need a harness adapter to connect the new stereo to the factory stereo plug. Might need an antenna adapter also. No need for radio code with aftermarket stereo. Halfords have the adaptors usually. They could even fit it for you if its too difficult. (For a steep price)

Exhaust leak?. Check exhaust manifold for cracks and around the gasket for any black soot

I had this hesitate/stutter at the same rpm as OP. EGR system was removed and delete in the map. No more stutter/hesitation.

Sounds spot on to me. Ive just been out to the car, no power windows, disconnect power to the motor then reconnect windows come back to life. I think a reset/interrupt switch would work