Gt4thomas
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Everything posted by Gt4thomas
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Id be using 2 external 5 pin relays to switch polarity. Im starting with basic stuff first. Id be leaving all the factory connections intact (may bring it to life). Yes making sure the window doesn't go to far is a concern. If i cant get something working id have a look at your idea of setting up a switched power to motor to replicate the battery being disconnected.
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Will have a read through when i load up the computer later. Im thinking to bypass this relay for my circuit im designing for version 1. Ill probably mount the new switches in the blanks in the dash. (Motor control board pictured)
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Why are you unplugging vac lines?. The Fabia vrs has a vacuum storage canister at the front of the engine bay.
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I do alot of night driving and wouldn't be without them. These particular units will fit in place of the factory bulb with any modification. As easy as normal bulbs to fit, instant off/on. If you can here the tiny fans over an idling engine you've got some magical ears.
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I have these, had them for 2 years passed both mot's, light output is excellent, has a nice flat cutoff point (reflector housing) Just adjust headlight aim and you're good
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Audi A1 front seats fit straight in ?. That's sweet if they do, im in need of new seats
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Do any of the window systems show up in vagcom ?. Must be some sort of voltage or resistance test that happens after the circuit is first powered, then fails after a few minutes not allowing motors to operate. Just waiting on some more part to arrive before i start on my window circuit. If i get a working system ill share my findings.
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Thanks for the info man. Yes making the main power for the motors switchable does sound like a workable solution. Could also have power disconnected/reconnect via a relay, activated by the factory switch. This is my other d/s motor (1 of 2) confirmed working. But will only work for a few minutes when connected to the door loom.
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Do you have a wiring diagram for the electric windows circuit ?. Or a schematic of the motor ?. I have 2 motors that work on the bench, but will only operate for a few minutes in the car. May end up making my own loom to bypass the factory circuit.
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I wouldn't waste your time/money with "mods". Best way to tell if your new stereo will fit is to remove the factory unit, then see if the new one fits in the gap.
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I would expect the stock injectors are maxed out, and map/maf probably isn't suitable for boost. also driving with no o2 sensor isnt good. Putting a turbo on any engine is always fun times.
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Comfort module. Located above the brake pedal under the dash. Easy to get to once the lower dash section is removed.
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If you have replaced these and still no luck, start going through every inch of wire.
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Change one or all of these, then try.
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Welcome to the (my windows dont work) club. Try disconnecting the battery for 1-2 hours. Check battery voltage Check alternator is working Check wiring in door shut Test the motor its self using 12v source Check window switch connector Check motor connectors Check for broken wires/corrosion Hold key in unlock position in drivers door
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If it makes choo choo noises it was worth it. But yeh that turbo looks way to big for that engine. Do you know the make/size of the turbo?. What kind of wastegate setup do you have?. Boost control?, Injectors?, Wideband ?.
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Im on the verge of doing this myself. Or making my own window wiring loom.
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An engine swap of any kind is a major undertaking. With very limited knowledge its not worth doing on your own car. If its a project car then by all means. As we all know with enough money anything will fit anything. Best to enjoy what you have or just buy a faster auto car. (Fabia 1.2/1.4 dsg box)
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How does one re-sync the keys ?.
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Battery at 12.6v (engine off). Battery at 14.4v (engine on) Battery at 14.2v (engine on with a/c, lights, heater ect) Windows will work if the battery has been disconnected for a few hours prior. Next step is comfort module. Anyone know if these can just be swapped in an out?, Or are they coded to the ecu/ign/immobiliser ?.
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Sealed all 4 doors inside (no water on the sills now). Fitted new drvers side switch, still now luck. Can i just swap in a another comfort module?.
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Those metal strips on top of the battery are fuses. I think the glow plug one is second from bottom. They can crack with vibration making the connection intermittent. Give them all a check and a clean up.
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Any update mate ?. Im interested to know if you find the cause.
