brettikivi

Pics This is the section at the door. You can see the spring to the right that pushes the door up. The end of the cable and its ferrule are visible. The piece I chopped off: those are centimetres with the numbers, so it's really about 3-4mm And the last: this is the bit that slides in to the push button on the glovebox. The piece underneath is the one that slides on the button mech, the bar to the right is the piece that gets pushed around.

I have an answer, or more to the point, a set of answers. The mech is beyond silly. There's a lever which moves UP when you press the button in. This pulls a cable (like your bike gear cable), which then PUSHES the arm down on the latch. This pushes the latching mech down just a tad more, which then allows the triangle shaped wedge to escape and open the door. Any tension on the cable, the door opens. the door is on a silicon piston to slow it and dual springs to push it. so it's a smooooth movement. BUT: the mech is so damned sensitive it's not funny. I removed mine earlier and could not get the damned thing to stay closed. No matter what I did. I figured there was a way to adjust the mech: there is no adjustment. Even stupider: the tolerances in the mech to keep the door closed are of the order of .xmm. There's a spring to keep the latch pushed down, even - this is German Engineering with a capital G. So how to stop it? A little fiddling showed me that even clamping the cable in the correct place forced the lid to open. So there was too much tension on the cable. And after realising the brass collars have their own place... I saw some cable surrounds showing too long, so I figured shortening the cable might work. I realised I only needed to remove the outer jacket. Hey presto, 3mm removed and it works perfectly. Back in the car, no problem. To remove the upper glovebox, remove the lower one (tx 20s. 4 inside on the top, two underneath, 2 on the right side under the cover for the end of the dash, it's just pressed in), disconnect the lamps if you feel the need. Remove the aircon tube, slide the radio out (disconnect as you go, the cables may be cable tied in place). Upper 'box has two screws on the inside at the top (next to the hinges on each side) and three at the bottom (under the rubber mat). The mat is a complete **** to get out, but it is possible. If the top one doesn't open, remove the lower and pull the cable. If it won't shut, try as above. No demolition necessary. still can't get the outer vents off, I've got the inner ones off now. So some WS2812s will be found tomorrow along with some hot glue and some short 3 pin JST cables 😁

and now I'm trying to get the upper glovebox to stay closed. Any hints on how to thread the opening mech would be appreciated....

and with some coding, I have sound. Nice! Sounds fantastic, and that's with minimal tuning. Another few amp channels needed (and a few hours of tuning) and we should be good.

Also swapped to the 8x12 dsp. Can now do 3 way front plus 2 way rear plus sub without issues 😁 This is the amp layout at the moment; only 7 channels. Will add at least a 4 channel to replace the 2, maybe I do go 3 way up front, maybe not. Then the support in the middle needs to move and I need another distro block, but that's future music ATM This is with everything down. Need to add some hinges. Underneath the rear section. Random pieces to support. no specific reason, I have to work out what else needs to go under there. 7

Lots done in the boot. The false floor is now flat again, and the lip to the boot is minimal but there. Which is what I want. I'm working with 12mm, I think, and 75mm in the middle. Sub should bolt in nicely and just needs and eye on the left side to hook it into the car. Will maybe add a block to really pull it down. Pics to follow.

I've had one of these running in the Kodiaq for a few months without issues. Doesn't really work for me, as I'm driving 4h at a time and I discharge the phone too fast, but the principle is really good.

Kodiaq one is about 12l. I've been down to less than 200km left.. depends a lot on how much fuel you're using. So when towing, it went through the stuff like there's no tomorrow.

When my water pump was changed, I ended up needing to fill 1.5l within 100km... then again another 0.5l and again and again. I think 4 fills. Each time I checked and it appeared to be at the correct level. Then I looked again, and hey presto, low. I have no idea if they tried to bleed the system, I can only assume they kind of tried but it didn't really work. I need to check mine again, it was low-ish when they the fixed the boost pipe and I've done a couple thousand km since them, some of that at high loads / engine speeds.

Interestingly enough, I drove Helsinki and back this week (or something like that) - and my consumption is around 0,5l/100 better than it was before the EGR and boost pipe sorting. Interesting. Yesterday I hit 5.7 on the way home and it's been previously 6.2 or 3. Interesting to see if it continues like this.

i would assume this is just a sender issue. Oil temp will give you a good indication of the state of things. Should be around 105C IMO at 70mph, with ambients above zero. Shouldn't go much above that unless towing or heavy load.

garage swapped the battery. coded it. Checked the EGR - still sealed, and then ran the adaptations - and a test run appears to be fine. So maybe this is another thing to add to the list: if your battery is low, your EGR may also start to play up... i will probably take the car down to Helsinki Thursday, let's see how that goes.

Car is allegedly done, I just didn't get time today to pick it up. Battery is completely dåd, so it got replaced first. Let's see what else is on the bill...

there's a control module for electronics and it controls the voltage and current used to charge the battery. AGM needs higher voltage than standard batteries, for example. Mine was replaced today, let's see if that's cured the EGR issue or if there's loadsamoney involved... 🤔

I had my AGM one in the Superb changed and coded in for around €300 total. That was back in the depths of -35C last winter, so it was the only one on the shelf (and €240). I expect the Kodiaq one (which has really died now, unless someone can recondition using a ctek or so) to be cheaper. Tudor was the last one, I'd expect an Exide one this time, and they're on the shelf in the local store for €180. That's an AGM. 242x175x190mm, around 60Ah.

left the car at the airport this week and on returning to it, the webasto remote was flashing green long - short x 3. Hmnm. Turns out the 12v battery is pretty much toast. sigh - i was hoping to get through this winter with it, but obviously that is not to be. Then the real issues started. P0402, excessive EGR; so either the EGR or MAP is dirty or broken. Towed to my mechanic, let's see what happens next....

I now have something like this too; the car is struggling to start in negative ambient, and then it turns off ACC. Guess it's time for a new battery...

i was wondering about getting the vents out, they seem very well pushed in. thanks for the info!

after the weird scare with the left light pointing at the floor, I've done some driving and it's all been pleasingly unconsequential. Car doesn't want to start easily when it's chilly (only just under zero out there) so I figure the battery is dead and needs replacing at some point soon. Audio stuff also needs completed, but I have a lot of stuff on my list of things to do and only so much time and money, so.... we will see.

not listed in the docs, so I would assume they are clipped and probably glued into place. Taking the trim out isn't such a simple job, either; implication is you need to remove the bottom trim, the rear seats and the d-pillar trim. That may be OTT.. why do you want to remove them?

.. and it's fixed itself. No idea why. I went out to get the cable today - boom, no issue. will report back if it recurs.

an interesting one I noticed tonight; the driver's side light on my Kodiaq is firmly pointing at the floor, about 2m in front of the car. The other one is fine. I'm figuring I may have hit something the other week and it's only now been revealed (the car was *caked* in snow from the bottom that had frozen on but it's been above zero every day here for the week) ... which side is the rear axle height sensor on? I can't find the details in my erWin materials, which is wierd, so I'll have to go look some more and see what I can find there. in the mean time, I think I'll run some basic settings in the morning and see if it will enter presentation mode. Anyone else had this? The dance on startup happens.

that seems correct. Maybe also try version 7.

there is for a car pre-facelift. My 2018 stays in individual mode. Absolutely. so, let's go through some of this: - first, the experience with the slow ACC stuff is not as good as it is with the high level. So the cruise which can work up to 210 or 240 has better far sight than the stuff to 160 (which is what is normally built in). The system can only "see" a relatively limited distance (if you think in terms of m/s, 100km/h or 60mph is about 28m/s, so 2 seconds of view is around 60m. 5 seconds conversely around 150m. My Kodiaq will see stuff relatively early, but the way it deals with it - yes, similar to your experiences. The higher level stuff will warn nicely way earlier - I had an incident in Germany the other week at 190 km/h where the system warned me when I'd already started to move but it was very much aware of the surroundings. No Cruise on, but the sensors worked way better in that car than the Kodiaq or the VW or the Seat I'd had a few weeks earlier. At 200km/h, that 5 seconds of view needs to be 300m+ and correspondingly more accurate and snappy in decision making. My Kodiaq is per default set to the shortest distance unless it's an A road where I know I can't overtake. But: the connection between ACC and the speed limit it detects with traffic sign recognition is specifically something else. This is a setting on some of the more modern cars, and to be honest, I've driven it probably 10k kms and it is, without a doubt, terrible in all implementations. Audi, Skoda, Seat, Volvo, Volkswagen - awful. They will see the wrong signs, stand on the brakes on a motorway... bleh, no, thanks. I like the notifications, but I've had situations where google maps and the car are both wrong despite having just driven past the new limit sign. There probably is a way to code the system to allow you to have a three-way decision: ACC, normal Cruise or Limiter, but it's not documented for the Kodiaq. I have a good idea how to do this, I am just absolutely not in a position to test this right now. It involves changing some long coding and hoping that will work. Personally on give-and-take backroads, I will set the limiter to limit +5km/h and then drive to the road. Brakes won't affect it and you can push through the limiter if you push the pedal to the floor, at least in my car.

Superb is quieter at speed. Octavia is way easier to park in town. I don't have parking issues, but a very long commute, so the Superb suited very nicely. Swapped it out in the mean time for a Kodiaq but would go back to one in a heartbeat, especially the 280 Petrol. Trying to convince the wife this is what she needs