brettikivi

It broke. Handbrake switch. No ACC, no parking brake. Finding parts is not trivial, factory order. Last time I had to sit through that, it was 4 weeks... we will see.

it's all integrated into 1. The handbrake, 4x4 mode switches - all 1. For both Karoq and Kodiaq. I've found online for just over €100 with a 10 day delivery time, will see if I can get one through Germany faster...

been to the mechanic this morning. Turns out the switch in the car is probably the cause, but there aren't any anywhere... might have to get creative with replacement microswitches at this point!

Get in the car at lunchtime after driving down this morning, 400km without a hitch. Suddenly car is "no parking brake", then "ACC unavailable". Some testing shows that pulling the switch gives me a flashing handbrake symbol. Each start the same. Limiter seems to work, but ACC does not. I have 400km to do tonight... any thoughts on why? Nothing's been done to it recently. I suspect a rear wheel rotation sensor, but am open to other ideas. Went to a dealer and they had no time to assist, and I can read the codes at home, so don't have them yet but will do this evening.

when i had my water pump / cambelt done, I specifically asked what they'd used, and they stated G12++. So when the beeps went an hour later, I knew what to buy and put in. the expansion tank will say what was originally filled from the factory.

G12, G12++, G12 evo or G13 is correct, not G40. I suspect G12++ or G13 is used. Why do you need to top it up? Don't use tap water, either. . Bret

package 1 arrived with some cables. Initial layout: More to come.... cabled up for testing with a 60w psu. Enough to prove stuff

had the situation a few days ago that the car thought one thing, google another, and they were both wrong. bad signage means wrong limits; covered by leaves, for example. Worked better in Germany than it does here (with signs on yellow). The car also shows some limits that are time-limited (from 22-6 for noise or from November to March) but google does not. Here may have correct numbers, I haven't checked recently. Super annoying when predictive cruise is turned on and it reads the limits from the adjacent exit.... Definitely try to update maps as a first step. You can also make suggestions on the portal if I remember correctly - I just did mine. But because I only have a 16GB card, I couldn't do the complete Europe set. I will be ordering an ebay 32GB card soon, you can't just use a standard SD card and have it work.

Plywood purchased, I'm going to have to make some more 75mm wide strips to support the floor (or strengthen it in other ways). 990mm wide (it's actually about 998 but this slides in and out nicely) and then 510+520mm depth. So there's a split and I'll use the front for the hifi and the back as a large drawer (another reason for the strengthening). Layout is sorted pretty much for the amps: 1 x35mm2 from the front, then a distro with the 1600.1 on the left, 400.2 in the middle and 400.4 on the right. DSP top right. Probably painted black / dark grey and then the top will be finished in something nice. Alcantara, maybe? have to see what I can find. Will try to make it clean and good looking, might well light it on the sides with some LED strips. And then light the drawer, too. More to follow as I do some work with this this weekend.

there is something like an audiosystem HLC if you want to avoid splicing anything. I will be taking from the head unit. . Bret

makes it easy. T- MOST connector from the back of the stereo (in the lower glove box). DO NOT MESS WITH THE UPPER ONE! use high-level outs from that to your DSP (in your case, just add the T from the Match setup) run from DSP to amps (use the match cable set) and from amps back to speakers. If you want to run full active, you'll either need to put tweeters on the dash or run more cables through the door. There is space (the canton is active and the tweets are in the door) but I would personally not go down that route and add the tweets on the dash anyway. then tweak. how much power on the amp? a 16 / 20mm2 cable should be pretty simple to get through the firewall (see @KoenG's recent thread on this) and then run through to wherever you want, Without canton you could probably put the amps under the left side front seat. Use input detection to power up and you should be good. For that specific amp you can probably stay smaller.... but I would consider a second amp for the sub. You really should be looking at something that can deliver 500W at 1 Ohm for that sub and wire in parallel. Should be able to keep up with 65W / channel at the front. no recommendations, don't know the UK market any more. here the Soundigital stuff is silly cheap for what it is - 1600W into 1, 2 or 4 ohms for €280 isn't too shabby. And a 2 channel with 130W/channel for €120 ain't bad either.

will probably also be adding some LEDs with diffusion film over them in *lots* of places now I've seen how good the stuff is through work.

Canton or no?

Couple of small updates: - parts for the spare subfloor (990x510+520 x 2, 75mm x 520 x6) have been bought. That's 990mm wide, total of 1030mm depth. Should be enough and I have a jigsaw and a circular with a guide... both top and bottom are 9mm, so I can screw the amps into place and the top shouldn't bend too much. Support with the 75mm pieces (the big amp is >50mm tall). So I will "lose" 75+18 --> 93mm - apparently the standard height difference is 100mm. And i have the reversible mat, so it should be good. - need to plan the layout itself, but that's something I will do in real and then drill everything, paint, carpet the outside and maybe add a drawer? not sure, have to think about how to use the remaining space best. Got to allow for some air movement somehow, too. - lamp-wise, I currently have the Phillips 5103L on both the A2 and the SX4. The SX4 mount moves *way* too much, i will have to reinforce that - but I don't particularly like the spread. Too concentrated in front of the car... I will have to see what happens with the specific positions when the lamp holder is flush all the way against the bumper, but right now it's OK and a decent improvement (on the already *very* good LED high beams of the SX4) ... needs some optimization. - will try to test the BCM method of main beam activation over the next day or so to see if I really do need to drop €80 on a canM8 or if I can do it with €10 and some programming...

Stereo update: having read a bunch of threads, it's clear that coding back to "normal" for the radio should not be difficult, but the guy who i want to put the system in was looking for a bit more than that. So we took the glovebox out today to see the back of the HU - that's all good, looks like we have the ports needed. Now to find a T set up and then to get the damned top glovebox to shut again... grrr! It's off on a trip with my offspring Tuesday and then I'm out so it will be a couple of weeks before this moves forward. I need to create an amp rack anyway, as the positions of everything will be behind the seats and under a false floor, i think - i can integrate the sub better that way and it's going to be way easier than trying to mess with the other locations, as there's simply not much space. 50mm to the rear, then 2 x 10mm for a 2 channel (front bass) and a 4 channel (front treble, rear) and then 20mm for the Sub amp. 7 channels of output from the DSP, 2 stereo pairs coming in from the radio to retain fader functionality. Need to work out exactly how to do the false floor, whether I raise everything 100mm and give myself some spare space (quite likely) or just part... could also drop everything next to the sub, especially since even though the sub was removable in the Superb, I essentially never took it out. Decisions, decisions.... Lamp is also pretty clear at being another Lazer Elite 18. Can find one for an OK price; having driven some with the wife's Philips whateveritis, I really like the Lazer's light output and spread. Easy to get a mount for, too.

working on how to fit my aux light. Want to put it under the plate at the front... but how do the centre grill sections come out? "Clipped in to the bumper" is what the manual says but that's not really useful. Any pics of the rear would be good to understand clip locations and directions to release them. thanks!

Overall 8.5l average (including returning the caravan at 5.x); 1700km. Can't fault the car, excellent in Sport mode with the stiffer damping at the back. Weight seems to make a minor difference, but rain makes a bigger one. And the higher the stützlast, the better... been using the full 100kg and it's worth it. Don't like having 40kg of clothes at the back... Impressed, I am. Now to sort out2 things on my list: - Elite 18 or so on the front - stereo upgrade.

(the garage did end up replacing some pipes on my adblue system on the Superb and it was a *pain* with something like 5 hours of work and very expensive parts. Motortalk has this pic from a Q5. but this ebay auction is the tank from a Tiguan and shows it from all sides. https://www.ebay.de/itm/156083404019 This has better pics: https://www.ebay.de/itm/135045217385 Can't see a drain plug, though.

erWin should be able to help on this - log in and go get the service manuals after you have identified your car. 1h for €8 or so and you should be able to download everything in minutes. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

as an aside to the topic: i had my water pump and cambelt replaced the other week. I picked the car up Friday morning, up the motorway towards home... BIM! Coolant level low....ah. Well, I guess I'll limp it to the next big town, where we used to live. Picked up 1l G12++, 1l distilled water. Let the pressure out, filled some, up to the max line. Drive home another 300km. Check it, while things are still warm (I'd left it for several hours but I could feel the engine was milldly warm). I see it's below min again, but I have no warning. I add another 250ml or so of both, and leave it alone. This morning, 8 days and 1200km later, I check it again -> i am back at Min. But no lights, warnings, nothing... so I top up to the max line and the 60km from today seems to see no change (and the car really is cold now) but with ambients at around 20C. What I'm trying to say: the car won't warn on coolant low until there's very little in the system. I've added nearly 2l in (the bottles are nearly empty) and there's only been a coolant low warning once. The temperature on the gauges has been rock steady, despite +26C, hills, and a 1400kg caravan behind and a full car. I would consider trying to datalog the temps as you run. Torque may be able to help with this. I would consider load, ambient, throttle position, speed and then coolant temp and if you can get it, flow. I haven't got everything here or I might be able to check out what's possible.

I didn't really think anything of it. I drive probably 4 months of the year on ice / snow, so when it thumped a couple of times after crossing other roads and the power being allowed through and then not again, I didn't really think much of it, just that that was "how it should be" but "that was not good, should get that sorted if it happens too much". You could really feel the power being pushed around though, also on gravel (we have lots, and lots of it is 80km/h limited). With the oil changed, that completely went away. Was a joy to drift on the ice, just needed to remember to keep my foot in to prolong the slide... and then sit and wait for the power and grip to be enough to push it straight again. Same thing at any traffic light or roundabout - keep the foot in a little too long, a dab of oppo and we're good. ESP even allows it, especially in ESC sport mode. correct, my mistake.

tracking was out, tyres have been replaced.Much better now.

I will be getting mine done when I get the DSG oil changed at the next "inspektion", at around 115000. It was done a couple of years ago, so a lot of the initial crud will be gone, but we push 4x4 hard up here, so I'll get it done early. The DSG oil was also changed early on this car (shouldn't be needed until 120000km on a '380) but it was done, so I'm leaving it a little over 60k kms, but then doing that, too. Bring everything into line for autumn changes ahead of slippery season. My garage should be charging around €150-200 ish, and they'll change the strainer out - their recommendation. Worked beautifully on the Superb. If you can feel the power transfer to the rear wheels in any way - change the Haldex oil. Thumps when power gets through? change the Haldex oil. The power transfer front to rear should be completely imperceptible. Mine wasn't and switching the oil out showed how rough (relatively speaking) the transfer was.

... and i've just done around 1200km with the 4x4 150 DSG and can confirm, it works *really* well. Would be sloooooow with 2000kg on the hook, but it handles the 1400kg we've got on there just fine, really nicely with some fine-tuning. Another few hundred Sunday and again next week. My Spritmonitor is going to suffer for this. Handled the rapid stops caused by reindeer very well, too. 90km/h, it dropped to 4th a couple of times on steeper hills, with the cruise dropping towards 85, but grumbles along in 7th on the flat. My maths says an 1800kg van would see me at around 10l/100, this one is running at 9,x. Better data when we return it as I can brim the tank at both sides of that trip to give a good indication. There is a PDF on ErWIn listing all weights with all engine / gearbox / seating combinations. Apparently it may be possible to get 3.3t for the 150 with a d-value over 14, but TBH, I think it will struggle with 2500.

Checking in from almost the Arctic Circle. 9.4l/100 on the last tank, that mostly had a 1500kg caravan on the back, +26C and 90km/h on the tacho. Very impressed with the Kodiaq as a towcar. Now to clean some bugs off ahead of tomorrow's jaunt back towards south (after visiting Santa's village...)