brettikivi

the arrows specify if it's RHD or LHD, they need to match.

And I know now that it likes cruising at 160 /100mph. And it doesn't really do a number on the consumption, either. But the wipers are crap at 160. And I can't set cruise higher than that, grrr. Today's high score / trip high score (too much rain otherwise!) was 193. Not bad for a 150PS 4x4 brick.

i got the car broken into while in London... glass fixed now but there are lots of chips on the doors. We will see what there is to do about that.

I did say that - the pic appears also when you only have heated seats and the radio is a high level one. There are Superbs out there with radios like the attached. But what is the problem you are trying to solve?

that Kodiaq has a heated wheel and seats. The LCD screencaps shown earlier are for ventilated and heated seats. This is not just a coding change, there needs to be elements in the seat covers and the wiring in place. Ventilated seats are an L&K special, I think (but I didn't spec my car, so...). Ventilated seats always use perforated leather, I think, too. I have heated rears in my current Kodiaq and I have had a heated wheel both in this and the Superb before it. That also had heated seats. the logic: if there's no heated wheel, there is no real reason for the button to do anything other than turn on seat heating at the level you set. Starts at 3, one press more to 2, one press more to 1, one press more to 0. If there's a really simple radio installed, then there is no menu to be shown. the menu is only relevant if you have the heated wheel, so you can tie them together; otherwise the menu is a "nice to have" but not essential. I don't believe I can lock out seat heating for the rear. I could set a temperature if I had 3 zone climate, but I'd have to check on the heating. i'd argue this is valid for both Superb and Kodiaq. The seats are probably on CAN and talk to the system, so I'd expect any errors to be visible. There's also the coding for example for easy entry, so I would expect the acknowledgement that there is a fan in the seat to be listed there - and re-writing it may help. But no guarantees on that.

question - where do the cables for the lid route? I am looking for reverse light for an additional one and I think it's behind the left side (driver's for you) rear panel, over the wheel. Do you have any ideas? (nochmals auf Deutsch - ich will zusätzlichen rückfahrlichter nachrüsten und bräuchte dafür das Signal. Ich gehe davon aus, dass es im Bündel oberhalb vom hinteren Kotflügel ist, denn es geht richtung Klappe. Aber diesen B128 position habe ich noch nicht finden können... ) viel erfolg beim nachrüsten!

it was truly gross on the front so I finally pulled the trigger on some coins for the local pressure wash, hit it with some foam and then took it to the summer house, where I spent an hour or so removing insects from teh front. This week then it needs a clay, seal and wax. Probably taking it to Europe in a week. The pics are from when it was clean. And yes, the light is pretty good :)

in natural habitat and cleaner again:

what's been done? I've been told there is a reset possible. But it can only be done with all four wheels in the air. Have the dampers been changed? If not, why not?

something from yesterday.

signal comes in at hi level from the MIB2.5 Amundsen. So balance and Fader are retained. Goes in to a MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12DL, out on 11 channels at the moment. 3 on each side at the front, 2 on each side at the rear and then the sub. I have only currently connected the front two-ways as we're out of time to do the rear doors probably and i wired everything up. So Dirac will happen at some point, the question is when. And the car speaker connections are all on Speakons, so this should get interesting. I've dropped the rear half of the audio board for the moment, as it's taking up too much boot space ahead of a big trip end of this week.

time has passed and I've been busy with work. But the version 2 of the hifi board is now in place. We are now at: soundigital 800.4 for woofers in all 4 doors (120W each). 400.4 for tweeters in all four doors. (60W each) 400.2 for mids up front (120W each) 1600.1 for sub (so around 1600w for the sub @ 4 Ohm.

ok, thanks, that makes sense. The car hasn't moved but doors have been open - battery measures 12,8 across its terminals with no apparent load. Ctek still says not full, though, which i find strange. Anyway, it's been on charge for several hours this week and I'm happy to take it out on Friday.

echoing: neither comfy for the central adult. the Superb felt slightly wider than the Kodiaq but it will be just as unpleasant. The compromise boot space vs seat space is easier in the Kodiaq with the moving seats (at least mine move forwards / backwards quite a bit. The height of the seat cushion may also make it easier to load child in and out. But getting in to the middle will also involve some acrobatics.

question: what should it be? 13.1 to 13.5V? Something else? my Ctek is claiming the AGM is "orange" status but I'm getting this voltage... and i'm wondering if the Ctek is wrong or if there's a charging issue. thanks!

and yes, my irritation with the auto is that the auto high beams do not come on early enough - they wait a very long time for it to be dark outside, irrespective of the menu settings. i'll triple check that when it actually starts getting dark again in a month or so.

Yes. I drive a*lot* in the dark - when the clocks change it's generally dark most of both ways to work, so that's 6-8 hours of night driving each week when I'm in the country. And it's not the night driving that most of the UK gets, either, with streetlights and traffic. This is the primordial stuff, the real darkness and traffic levels at 10-minutes-with-high-beam-at50mph-between-cars. The Superb's high beam was OK. Not strong enough, but OK, with a decent spread. The Kodiaq? No. It's 2 spots. Why? Superb was Xenon, Kodiaq is LED. For the Superb lights, I had mine - and I didn't explicitly set them like this, they came like this and were excellent in low beam - set so that the kick of the beam was visible on a kerb starting at 35m out. You could see the pattern of the lights change at that point, the kick starts and you can see it when you have a flat surface (doesn't have to be perfect, a car park is fine, as long as it's a consistent surface). You can adjust with either an allen key or a philips IIRC. I don't have the car any more, so I can't tell you specifically. I would not adjust significantly, just tweak and see if it improves things. All the cars have MoT here, but the one car's lights are way higher than the others and they're still "fine"... I also spent quite some time with all the extra lights aligning them. Just because it looks good on the garage door does not a good beam pattern make. One is higher than the dipped beams (!) another is equal-ish, the Kodiaq seems higher but isn't and the Superb light was below the headlights so looked a little off but was rather good. Superb had a Lazer Elite 12 with parking light, the Kodiaq has an Elite 24 (!!), the other two currently have Philips ref 30+30 20" bars. They're fine, I prefer the Lazer color temps. The 24 especially also puts out way more light even though it's theoretically very similar. the reason, by the way, you can see the owls is because you want to see the wildlife coming from the side. That seems to imply the lights may be too high rather than too low, but as said, tweak, check, tweak again. Don't overdo it, dazzling people is silly. And if there's nothing for it to reflect off of, it can look like it's off... I got this on the ice road last winter, where the difference between high beam on or off was negligible, as there was nothing to reflect the light off except the ice & snow of the road!

My 2018 has LED headlights (dip and main beam), auto main beams, no matrix. But it's a here model... didn't want matrix and i've added a decent sized LED bar to get main beams worthy of the name. 4x4 is lovely, wouldn't want to go without here. Cambelt is 6 years in some cases, if it's the 110kW / 150hp, it needs done if it wasn't already IMO. And then I would do Haldex and DSG for peace of mind. The auto handbrake system is way lumpier and dissonant in my Kodiaq than it was in the Superb. And yes, the Superb really did feel like more of a magic carpet. The heated wheel is more effective (and faster) in the Kodiaq; the heated seats take a lot longer with leather than fabric. Memory seats are cool, offspring doesn't like the car though as it's simply "too big". Kodiaq a little quieter at speed, but tyres make a big difference. 7-10% higher fuel consumption, but that's also manual vs dsg. (Superb was manual, Kodiaq is DSG). Auto lights are a two-edged sword: I think the HBA reacts reasonably but is too slow to turn on with light still outside. And accidentally turns the lights on too often when going downhill with traffic coming towards me, so the traffic thinks I've flashed at them for something, whereas the system is just being silly. The headlights come on really early, though.... I will have to go looking for some settings in the coding to tweak.

washed it. And saw someone's smacked it, there's a nice little dent in the passenger wing. With paint loss. also managed to put a loooong scratch in the clearcoat on the bonnet while washing, so.... hmm. Will be getting a quote for a panel repaint or two, I think. Door also needs done, so... it's not quite a complete respray but it's closer than I would like.

took it to Helsinki and back again for the second time in 2 weeks. It complained on the way home about oil level. Since it was 2030 and I was somewhere 60kms off Jyväskylä, I was kinda happy to have a half liter in the boot. Put that in a supermarket car park (one open til 9) then went for ice cream. No more warnings. Been probably 10000km since the service, so I'm not that surprised.

oh, and 09_Zentral elektronik Fernlichtassistent Reset to nicht aktiv. it's not always on but it is very frequently.

driven it another 800 today, we're now at 129k. Some reminders for myself: - the rear extra reversing lights are on the shelf and waiting for me to attach and cable them. They will need to be switched to pass inspection. the tail lights in those will also need to be switched. I need to get the speakers into the rear doors. But at the same time I want the door LEDs in, as I don't want to take the door cards off too many times... this is going to be very tight time wise as I may need to take the car to Europe in a couple of weeks already need to tune the audio system. Works well with Android auto and Spotify on two devices, but not well enough. I need another to make things good. Long story there, but there's going to need to be some thought put into this. I really want the new swtich in the tailgate so I can lock the car at the same time as closing the boot. This needs CAN unfortuntately. thkning about how to get a 8" widescreen on the dash over the top of the HU, so I can run spotify via touch on a Pi directly into my sound system. And also get some logging done at the same time.

I have some for disabling the LED in the console (normally on for everything but "normal".) the lights off for Handbrake means that the car at night really can be dark (!) one thing on my list to do is lock on slam, so it locks when you close the door and walk away.

You can't get your own car's spec any more (I specifically stated this elsewhere in the thread). However, if the "haynes" is wanted, then erWin is the way to go. A bunch of the information is available here on the forum, but if that's correct for the car in your hands is a question each needs to ask of themselves. I specifically wanted a car spec when I was looking to replace the Superb about 18 months ago. Ended up taking a plate to a dealer and asking nicely. Did another one from the selling dealer directly.

"online haynes manual"? go to Erwin, login in, pay your €8, get the data.