brettikivi

Yep. Sub in the centre of the wheel well, with 4 wires (so i assume 2 6" drivers in there on a couple of hundred watts, max). I have a Soundigital 4.100, C-DSP 6x8 and a Soundigital 1600.1 at an installer down south (along with some cabling) and a set of Helix S 62C.2 Now the questions will start about disabling canton and how to take door cards off. I figured I ought to go 3-way, but 2 is enough for the moment. Sub is a CSS SDX10 in 30ish l, weighing about 40kg Will need to rebuild the sub box to suit the kodiaq boot, i already have an idea (and wife permission!) . Bret

mine is a 2018. After upgrading the 6.5s in my wife's car today, this is super high on my list of things to do. Need to get the electrical diagrams and some other erwin stuff next...

found lots of LIN lights on the web with some searching. 8W0 947 415s for the footwells 8W0 919 390s for the doors then 7p6 919 390 for the charger port... how can i find out which connectors are used? Which diagram on say lll parts? the kodiaq already has ambient in the doors, I'm assuming the BCM can handle this, I will take a look tomorrow and see if I can connect to it cleanly.

one more thing to add to the list: replace the rusting screws in the front number plate.

also just saw that Audiotec Fischer appear to have a demo Kodiaq.. https://www.facebook.com/audiotecfischer?__cft__[0]=AZWb1PL-hirojR6IX3knrFOH7VMJf9okTQ2tsj0oIjeBBr6KOCL59cCrPALrmZFvlnlA4KMtn8Ut1PldCVrwU5Mzi-s8XYv4t9rK-H739c-bunz72wSf5dsbk0zsWS9e4qzNn0dxnPGn1YVhD0rtSv0rwNJncMwEeh1C7VAYe7ZY3IuW1i-ZuUvz2EKRj4gXNNudwDQMvOEenK51A7RtavgF&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R .... will have to look and see if I have those cubbies on the side in mine. Would be very useful for the Amps...

ah, forgot a couple of things that absolutely need doing: - order rubber mats, it's only got carpet ones with (and they don't really work when you've got a crapton of melted snow which is refrozen into ice... at least with the rubber ones you can take them out and hammer the ice out). - set up the cambelt change and waterpump - DSG oilchange isn't due for another 15k kms (was done at 58k), will have to think through how and when this is going to work. Also need to Rain-x the side windows and try polishing a couple of marks out of the bonnet.

wait, so the doors are only 2 way? That makes things easier... was debating a small (2-3l) enclosure on the dash in the corners for a mid + tweet. Now to pull the electrical diagrams...

So I've switched Katie the business Grey Superb for another business grey Skoda, this time a Kodiaq. 103000km on the car. DSG 4x4, 2.0TDI, 110kW. Let's see how this goes. List of things to sort: - new aux light --> this will be a Linear Elite 18, under the plate, in the honeycomb, between parking sensors, I think. Only have HBA not Matrix, so that makes things easier. - charger for overnights --> DEFA have a kit for this with a 4A charger, that should be enough to keep things topped up. - rear mudflaps --> the rear gets dirty enough as it is, would like to keep it cleaner - probably some new summer tyres as they seem to be original and therefore 7 years old... and I may well upgrade to 19" at the same time - audio system (need to chat to @KoenG and @spacelordon this, as it sounds lots like the center speaker is getting a real workout and I just want a clean signal for an 8 channel DSP (miniDSP c-dsp 6x8) so i can feed a couple of hundred watts to the replaced door speakers. Will probably end up moving mids and tweeters to the dash somehow. - needs a new rear wiper blade - key and webasto remote need new batteries Stuff I'm surprised about: - the ambient is only in the doors. the footwells are still white.. .this needs changing. Not sure how to do this, there's lots of ideas. - the plastic on the front of the upper glovebox reflects annoyingly - have to think about what to do here - i haven't worked out how to set the memory on the seats despite having read the manual (I will look this up again) - Canton is a huge disappointment in terms of sound quality - i was expecting staging, imaging and a certain amount of bass and i got some bass that required turning the sub up to +6. We can do better than that.. Stuff that seems borked: - passenger mirror won't dip in reverse - virtual pedal doesn't want to play ball, i suspect it has to do with the poor key battery Will have to try and get out in the darkness one day this week to confirm the high beam capabilities, the lights inside, test the heated rear seats and find my place. It's snowing out, so it should be pretty slippery in the morning, and this car wears friction tyres (no studs), so it should be easy enough to slide. I want to see what ESC Sport allows on this car.

picked up my used 2.0 TDI 4x4 DSG Tuesday, drove it home today. Happily, it's snowed, so I can go test the Haldex in the morning...

Kodiaq vs Superb: kodiaq with 5 seats (but a sub and spare wheel) feels deeper than the Superb, but not by much. It's allegedly 60l bigger... but I feel a bunch of that is going to be behind the bumper. The 18" rims from the Kodiaq (which are bigger than the Superb ones!) fit nicely in the boot, as the Superb's ones in the Superb, with similar amounts of space around them, but more on top in the Kodiaq. Issue with the roof box on the kodiaq is the height of the roof for loading etc. Roof weight also only 75kg on Kodiaq vs 100kg on Superb, I believe. Kodiaq also gets to move seats fore and aft to adjust space for gear vs people. My Kodiaq also has a towing weight given of 2500kg, the Superb only 2000kg. Both 4x4... same engine. if you need FWD for more boot space, check the numbers work.

so, the Superb went in Tuesday, I picked up my Kodiaq and I drove it home today. On some questions: for @coppertop there are a couple of options from Lumise and others. Page for some perusal: https://www.jussinmaki.net/ajoneuvovalaisimet/merkkikohtainen-herate/skoda/c/2635/ The Kodiaq I bought actually only has HBA and not matrix, making a new Elite (without LBA) easier. The other way to do this with Matrix involves the BCM. There is apparently a signal for full high beam on CAN... so you push that to the BCM. I looked into this for the Superb and they ended up taking a different route (and I never checked which one nor how they did it). . Bret

they would seem reasonable, but the data doesn't really help without knowing the slopes or if this is the lower or upper bound. So: maybe. What's your plan / idea? I am really surprised at the order of the speakers in the Kodiaq, with the mid seemingly at the top, and the overall tonality is not to my liking at all. . Bret

Other observations: it's possible to freeze the towbar in place if the weather is right. Only answer is to thoroughly defrost the car. Snow in the rims is a persistent problem in the cold with fluff snow; getting to them is a pain because of the discs. Prefer the open designs because of this but it's still a pain. Need to create something that can slowly melt snow at -25C. Mudflaps really do help keep the crud off the car. Rear ones seemingly more so than the fronts, as I've not hit any point where you can't read the plate this year and previously this was common. The rear discs rust easily Front brakes are more distinctly affected by rain / water than I would like. There are mosquitos (dead ones) in the rear lights in the tailgate. But that's watertight.... The centre armrest is lovely and I will miss it. Personalization also doesn't really mean much on this gen of car without the electric seats. Intrigued if this works better with the Kodiaq - my offspring drives my car and needs different mirror / seat height settings and I want to prove these will set with "their" key; wife has one key, I have another, offspring has third. Looking forward to active cruise, rear camera, that higher seating position is nice. And the DSG... this will be my first automatic car. Driven lots of automatic rentals, but this is the first one that's mine. Wondering how much this car will get "borrowed" by said offspring for weekends away at the local ski resort. Quite a lot, I suspect, especially if I get roof bars for it, we have the ski holders already.

I'm happy with the general volume level in the Superb. Could summarize, maybe.....bear in mind that nowadays, I do 400km at a time, 1 way, to the office. Same day return, mostly empty roads. Minimal town work, mostly 80/100/120km/h limits, 80/100 in winter. Summer tyres are Bridgestone Turanza 005s, Winter Hakkapellitta 8s. Both in 215/55R17. Car spec includes heated seats and wheel, Bi-Xenon, Amundsen, Webasto. I've done a tick over 73500kms in 2.5 years. Average according to Spritmonitor is around 6l/100. Average speeds tend to be high with summer limits, like 100km/h high. Plus: - like the ride. Very comfy. But this car also has the rough road pack (+15mm) - noise-wise, pleasantly quiet, even with winter spikes - manual change not too shabby - winter tyres still have 6mm left; summers still have >5mm left. Both sets were new at the time of buying. - it powerslides beautifully in ESC Sport mode without allowing rotations... but you can still eat snow - the range is lovely, with 1200km no issue and 800 in a day absolutely standard with a 1/3 tank left. Dislikes: - used the heated screen so little it's weird. Webasto very effective, so that got used instead. - bit floaty over the bumpy stuff, would have fixed that with B6s all round - sound system is pants, but I fixed that --> DSP + Amps + Sub. Took some boot space, excellent sound as a result. - Bi-Xenon underwhelming, I fixed that too --> Lazer 18 Elite will also be added to the Kodiaq - Range on the Webasto remote was small. Can't stand on the runway at my local airport and turn the Webasto on reliably.But this is a standard feature of these remotes, so... What broke / was replaced? 1 wheel bearing. 1 lower control arm ball joint 1 set of front disks + pads oil, 3 times Haldex oil, once Adblue system bits, once Battery, once Kessy start button, once Overall: solid 8/10. Can't argue with the tyre wear; it's done a very good job of keeping costs down and eating the miles. Haldex is very nice now the fluid is changed - previously you could tell when power was going to the back, now it's just sliiiiiiide and no apparent movement of power.

.. and fixed, looks like someone cracked the oil filter housing by overtightening at the last service or something along those lines. Anyways, fixed for now, car will be swapped tomorrow. Replacement is a business grey Kodiaq from 2018, 110kW 4x4, 5 seater, leather, DSG, nav, LEDs, heated front and rear seats. Should be an interesting swap.

cursed at it, very loudly. It's marking its territory with nice not-so-little pools of engine oil. The one in the hall where the car was for 4-5 hours is about the diameter of a pilot pen / bic. I'm supposed to be trading it in on Tuesday at a dealer 300km away... the orange light binged at me Friday last week. I filled 1l, then today for the hell of it, I checked oil level - 1/3 of the way up the dipstick (and the hall is close to level, with 0,1 degree). realised after coming home in another car that there's a pool on the gravel outside and then when I moved it tonight, there's another in the hall. Now it's at the mechanics and I will be over there first thing in the morning to see if they can do anything for me...

get the correct one. It's covered elsewhere on the forum. I was going to do this on my car. Pick also whether you want to go Ali or OEM route. It's going to be a multi-hour job as you'll have to take the entire cladding off the tailgate.

so if I remember correctly, the way it works is this: - the blade needs cut to suit the actual physical lock of the car, giving you emergency entry or so, depending on the spec (my A2 still has 1 physical key hole visible, the Octys and Superb don't, but it is still there) - the transponder needs to be coded to work with the lock / unlock function --> this is the re-sync with 2 keys and is generally possible without too much hassle and what locksmiths can generally do (i asked about a replacement key not too long ago and was told this was possible), as it's about syncing the rolling codes with the lock / unlock list in the car. - the immobiliser is different and cannot be cloned, as each key* car probably gets a specific seed value for the crypto... there are generally 3 key slots available on the newer vehicles, and the dealer (or your friendly programmer with dealer-level tools) gets to assign one of the keys to the space in the car. Then some fancy stuff happens and the key is known. In other words, I think your key for €7 isn't going to work, but a key for €107 may. If you are 100% sure the frequency of the key and the car are the same (part numbers!) then there's a good chance it will all work. You will unlikely be able to clone a working key to another without dealer tools (NFC reader or whatever it is, must be something along these lines) and the software to go with it. Looks like Ali has these things but at 600+999 for the software. I suspect strongly that you'll need to strongly authenticate (2FA with real names in an official system) against the VW systems before adding new keys going forward. The reason the up! got canned is security protocols... another reason why the cars are going to go cloud-based. * thought this through some more: car-based seed makes way more sense. For a replacement key, decode the seed in the key through the key responses to a challenge, copy to another key, tell the car the result of XOR seed + key serial - boom - done. Too easy IMO.

... and the deal looks complete. Kodiaq should be here next week at some point, maybe still this week, let's see.

the start / stop buttons do die sometimes, my Superb had its replaced a year or so ago. Not spectacularly expensive., of the order of €35 for the part and an hour or so fitting IIRC.

interested to hear what you're replacing it with. looks like I will be driving a Kodiaq soon not a Superb, and I have a decent system for that, but not 3-way, not with a centre, and with a big ol' 10" sub. @KoenG

Yesterday: spent several hours in it trekking to the east to view a car that ... did not live up to my expectations, at least not on the outside. Next! Today: off through the snow down south to look at a Kodiaq. I would like this whole thing off my plate as I have a busy spring / summer ahead and if it's not going to work out, I'd like to know that sooner rather than later... Superbs are thin on the ground, super thin on the ground. 3 in the correct price / mileage class in the entire country and I've driven 2 of them and rejected them; the third is elsewhere but I think I've settled on the Kodiaq. Decent equipment - towbar, electric seats, leather, heated rear outside seats - but not too much. No BLIS, but ACC; no Dynamic LEDs but high beam assist, nav and traffic sign recognition and a reversing camera. At least speed limits are coming back to summer ones in part, that will turn my commute from 4h45 including coffee to 4h dead including coffee. It was super fun to slide across a mostly-empty car park this morning with ESC Sport. Wasn't long but it was satisfying. ooo-er!

the car should be told about the new battery to ensure it charges it correctly, in terms of voltage. Assuming you replaced like with like (an AGM with an AGM) then the issue isn't that serious but I would still get it done to ensure maximum battery life.

turn the wheel from centered to lock right, then all the way to the left, then to the center again before driving anywhere. See if that helps. (i had exactly this after we removed the amp etc from my car on Tuesday. Turns out the clock spring position got lost because of the temporary loss of power. going from lock to lock solved it without VCDS and in about 1 minute). . Bret

well, i've preliminarily agreed a deal to swap it for another one. With far fewer miles and better kit. Tuesday to get the hifi out and then hopefully Wed / Thu we can complete the deal...then the new one goes for cambelt and probably an oil change and a look-over.