brettikivi

fair enough, I was under the impression that facelift made coding far more difficult for both Superb and Kodiaq and coding like this was affected.

fixed. Turns out it was a short to the ABS unit; one of the cables was under the hood so over time the insulation got worn away. €500 later, I have a fixed car...

Got an update on the Kodiaq: they checked over the switch and can't find anything. The rear brakes also seem ok. So tomorrow the mechanic will be measuring the connections through to the ABS unit in the front. There's 4 of them and it's a direct connection. I am currently assuming there is some form of rodent damage on the insulation, but we will find out tomorrow.

what did you already try to do? Oh wait, this is a 2022. All bets are off, the MQB evo is a different animal.

have to say: on my Kodiaq I took the radio out to deal with the transition to hi level out for a DSP. Turns out if I have the doors open, the bass is way better --> something somewhere is out of phase. I still don't like the tonality but the bass is far, far better. Not 100% sure which wiring it is / was, may try testing it but more likely not. On the Superb, there was enough space behind the display for the DSP and we tucked a 4.100 behind the dash. The Kodiaq has no such space, I think I am going to need to grab an ISO direct from the radio, even the 52-pin T adapter doesn't really fit. That's the other way to get high level signals, especially if you don't have Canton. And if you do, i think you can handle it with 5 minutes of coding in 5F.

depends. Might be possible, might not. What software do you have? What hardware is in the car?

do you get standard cruise anyway? I don't know that I would prefer ACC over standard Cruise... there is a benefit in traffic, but I tend not to see much of that, so the usability is moot.

Interesting. To check the spec of the car, you can go to a dealer and they can search it for you. You can't get it yourself on ErWIN as used to be possible with a VIN search. I haven't used MySkoda at all with the Kodiaq, it requires purchasing stuff and I don't see any benefits. I know I haven't been working with Internet in the car (and there's no skoda connect on it, either). The local mechanics have it now, I will doubtless hear what they find the morning. Could just be the rear pads, as there's no wear indicators on those... . Bret

FAULT_EPB_SWITCH_FAIL I've found this twice on the web. Once on a German community from a Superb where the battery was changed. No resolution posted 😞 Another from the VCDS forums where there's a Passat that gave issues when swapping out rear pads. The switch was already replaced with a new one and it didn't help. A reset / basic setting hasn't helped, either.

quite probably. I doubt *very* much you'll find a schematic. But what's the part? part of the issue is that you don't *know* it's the thermistor or sensor that's broken, that's just the symptom you see, that the fan no longer turns on. Could be a broken Chip no longer sending a signal, a broken transistor or mosfet no longer switching or a diode that conducts in both directions. Honestly, if this is the only issue you have with it, I would try something like the externally temp controlled fan for a while and try to replace the amp in the near future when one runs across your path or it breaks (or both).

.. and the other way to do this would be to replace with an ESP / Arduino controlled fan. like this: https://www.makershop.de/sonstiges/thermostat-relais/

Charge is good. Rear brakes will be looked at on Wednesday. Changed the coding on the radio, I have 4 speaker outputs on the unit itself. Now to work out how to mount the second pair of drivers...

tried, no dice. Will take it to the garage Wednesday for a check of the rear brakes....

where is the fan connected?

on the AAC & Parking brake issues: - left the car to charge this evening, i need to check the voiltage in the morning. Current thinking is that the rear brakes are either dirty or worn and this is the way the car is showing it. Weird, but nothing else makes sense. Radio is out but I can't change the coding in infotainment for some reason (Security?) - i will try this again tomorrow if i get the chance.

the 2020 is different, i think, with mqbevo. i managed to get it to work with gerät 36, easy entry passenger_over_drivermmi --> aktiv easy entry front over mmi --> aktiv easy entry front --> aktiv reset infotainment and there it was.

going to do that on the Kodiaq shortly, i want to be able to lock the car from the boot. i had a more urgent question though: how to remove the white and blue connectors on the back of the radio (the bit in the glove box). I can't for the life of me remember how I did it last time... the yellow, purple, MOST and black are done. The two furthest away from the MOST connector are the ones in question... thx!

I have a 150 4x4 DSG. I used to drive a manual 150 4x4 Superb. I do around 18-25k miles a year. The Kodiaq responds better than the Superb did when you push the pedal down hard / far. You *can* tap it to M and then drop three cogs, but the hard press on the loud pedal will get you there, too. Unless you've trained it to just hold the gear and try to accelerate. Even then, though, it will probably drop to 5 for an overtake instead of 4. I don't find it spectacularly sluggish. Yes, on the way out of roadworks you're as fast as anything else, but that's the way it is. It's 150PS and 350Nm, it's not going to move mountains. My Drive Mode is always "individual". I have the DCC on normal, the steering set to Sport and a couple of other bits tweaked and I really like it. I would not have spec'd it, but I am glad I have it. If you're towing, it's great in combination with DCC. Set suspension to Sport and the tail stops wagging the dog, and the rest stays as it is... very comfortable. It would try to drop into 7th at 90km/h, and as soon as there was a slight incline, drop to 6 or 5... and then it would sometimes go to 4 and the only real difference was the engine note. Speeds were kept very nicely indeed and with a *lot* less drama than the Superb did. I took a trailer to track the other year and boy, that took some serious stirring of the gearbox even though it was only around 400kg. I used to have the 'box set to "sport", but it lost that on every start and the changes due to the summer trip - spending quite a lot of time in M, changing down the box - mean it now does that automagically and it's really rather good. I would have liked the paddles for this (and have had them on a rental or two - i find them useful on the really windy stuff and would have found them nice with the 'van on the back, but otherwise don't really miss them. Our roads are similar to yours in that there's not a lot of motorways and lots of overtaking opportunities need to be seized. I find leaving a certain amount of gap is always a good move and planning a little ahead... the DSG will be faster from 40-60mph than the manual can be (though I suspect most of that is just "bung it into 4th and floor it"). If you were going to fill the car and put 2 tons on the rear, I'd say yes, do the 190 or 200. Otherwise? don't really see the point.

switch hasn't helped, apparently... need to do some wiring tracing. At least I have a unit to do it in.

drop it into sport mode and it should hang on to the gears when braking and going downhill - the system will learn if you do it more (mine learnt this from the summer with the caravan and it's much nicer to drive).

note for anyone else looking at this: If you have Canton, the rear doors also are driven actively, so you have 4 channels for the front doors and another 4 channels for the rear ones. I was not expecting this so I'm now missing 2 channels of amplification and DSP... <sigh>

light ordered, will be a Linear 24. Now to find a way to mount it...

MOST T is here, last cinch too. DSP connectors are through customs, should be delivered this week still. So I will try to get something running tonight or tomorrow with an SPDIF output from a Pi to the DSP, so I can test everything. Then i need to figure out when stuff is going to happen.

Mild change of plan. Different board used, as this already has space for the sub to bolt into. Mostly done on this side now, waiting on connectors and a cable.

part ordered through dealer, should be here either late this week or early next. So the car goes in late next week for the fix.