Mike97

Lol I had one yesterday while I had my cambelt and pump done we all said how bad it was really noisey when driving reverse gear was well noisey. Mike

Going through the same with my sons 2013 seat mii he bought it just over 7 months ago as a dealer approved car with 38k miles and I noticed the exact same rust and under the arch around the filler 6 months after him getting the car. Booked it into seat who took a few pics then told us to take it to there approved body shop to get an estimate. Then Seat got back to us they are willing to pay 75% so I am still trying to get them to do it free. They have told me its only got paintwork warranty for 3 years so I have pointed out this is rust from behind not paintwork. My son can not afford the extra £500 he paid dealer price for his first car thinking he was getting a good car with warranty. He has only done 1500 miles in since getting it and that is driving lessons.

Had mine done yesterday 2015 vrs tdi cupa 36kmiles. Been keeping an eye on my temp gauge while waiting for it to go in to be done. It has gone just over 90 a few times but I got it back down by using the heater on full. So never got any warnings and it only just moved over 90. Booked it in online £529 fixed price took it yesterday tried charging me £569 told them no it was £529 bit of questioning and he crossed it out and changed it to £529. Told me they have never heard any issue's or had a car in with waterpump problems. Laughed at me and said how does a waterpump stick closed and not work when I mentioned it.

Looking at the vagdpf screenshot you have done just over 132k miles and the dpf oil ash is at 98% full you can't lower the oil ash content so looks like its maybe time for a new one.

What is showing 100% + is it the top bar like in my picture? as I have mine go over 100% it just means it has not done a full regen yet mine has gone over the 100 when low on fuel. The oil ash volume is the one that is telling you it is near life end once that starts showing high values mine on the pic is 10%. It does seem strange why yours seems to start a regen then stops.

I have had a noise from when I got the car with 13k miles to now at 25k when turning the steering wheel left a faint sound inside the car similar to the old power steering pump noise you get on full lock. These use electric steering so not that it's not got any worse and nothing seems worn or loose had mot also had winter wheels on and still there.

Have a look Here to see what you can do but you will need vcds or carista if you want to do any software modding.

There is a breakers on ebay that look like they have stripped a 2016 vrs 230. They want £170 each for the powerfold mirrors.

Have you got sensors up on the roof part of the sunglasses box? switch on drivers b panel ? That's what my 2015 vrs has and that has the factory alarm

Seen this on the facebook vrs page no idea if you live near by and someones nicked yours to cover up damage. http://www.whtimes.co.uk/news/police-appeal-for-the-driver-who-killed-helen-maybrey-s-dog-in-a-hit-and-run-in-cuffley-1-5464326

The black trim is a tight fit on the clips but pulls off I used the plastic trim tool that came with the dash cam to start it off then got fingers behind it. I tucked the wire along the inside of the rooflining with the boot seal pulled off at top then pulled the rubber duct off. Used a bit of stiff wire taped to dash cam wire to first feed it through duct then up the drivers side of the boot with the heated screen wire. The reason I used drivers side is the wire hole was not as far up the boot as the passenger side there was no holes I could use in the top of the boot so wire fed back round to brake light. For the trim I just used a round file to notch it out so the cable fits into the notch as the panel is clipped back on. And dab reception has been fine no problems.

I took the boot seal off near the top and fed my wire into the hatch via the rubber cable duct. Then up into the drivers side of the hatch and out of the hole for the heated screen wire then back down to the top of the high level brake light. The only trims i removed were the hatch carpet trim and the black plastic trim that also covers high level brake light, i dont think you need to remove the carpet part though

Had 2 fitted last week at ats they have an offer on at the moment i could not find them cheaper anywere else fitted.

I have had this a few times on my 2015 vrs and spotted this video last night on youtube could this be our problem? Not had a look at mine yet to see if i have the older vvt unit or the updated later unit.

Been with admiral few years but just sacked them off they wanted £690 this year was £630 last year went with hastings direct £430.