automass

I did compare among Jeep Compass, Vauxhall Grandland and MG HS. It seems MG HS come on the top.. Does anyone have any idea about Citroen C5, Renault, Peugeot?

I am a big fan of Skoda but sadly it is time to move on to SUV.. i have sold my car (Octavia MK3) yesterday. We had 6yrs of good memory with the car. I really love my car and never cut corner when it cames to maintain.. So guy came ro view and ended up taking it. So it jist jappened wotjout plan.. I am wondering what car shall i go to now. My must have features: SUV, Petro PHEV, Economical while on motorway, adaptive cruise control, auto high beam assist etc.. MG PHEV TROPHY is one in consideration.

Sorry to revive an old thread rather than starting a new one, but I’ve just noticed something similar and wanted to see if anyone else has come across it. On mine the front gaps aren’t the usual ~5mm difference mentioned earlier – they’re closer to 12mm, which feels a bit unusual. I honestly never noticed when it started, but I’m fairly sure when the shocks/dampers and coil springs were replaced there wasn’t any noticeable gap difference at that time. N.B: Measurement was taken in a multistorey car park to ensure a level surface. Tyre pressures are the same on both fronts, tread depth is very similar, and both tyres are the same size (225/45 R17). Has anyone else experienced this, or is my car just being quirky?

Quick update for everyone who replied – I managed to get a garage guy to temporarily sort the washer fluid issue. He opened up the inner wheel arch liner to access the expansion tank for the washer reservoir, unplugged the hose feeding the headlight washer and clamped it off before refitting. He topped up the tank and now there’s no more leaking – plus the windscreen washers are working perfectly again. He advised me not to operate the headlight washers until the new nozzle is fitted. But as we know the headlight washers on these cars only work when the dipped beam headlights are on, and then only once every five windscreen washer activations. So for now, I just need to make sure I don’t wash the screen with the headlights on, or I could trigger them accidentally. Does anyone know how to disable headlight washer by the way? To tidy things up and stop water getting in, I’ve used double-sided tape to stick the headlight washer cover back in place where it popped out, and put clear cello tape over the fog light lens – partly to seal it from water and partly to stop it breaking further until I replace it. At least the car’s now usable for the trip without losing all the washer fluid – thanks to everyone for the tips so far!

That's something confused me as well. But believe me all the fluid id is drained out and giving me warning to top up. Wiper and other side of headlight washer work good. I did try two times with the wipers.. Don't know if it caused to drain out all or not. Nothing i can see got damaged other than fog light and headlight washer jet spray.. Impact was gentle that i was almost not getting out of the car untill someone said that i had damage on the front and part came off.

Hi all, What a nightmare I’m having! Not sure if I’m just unlucky, but it feels like every time I go abroad, something goes wrong. Yesterday, while attempting a tight 3-point turn, I bumped my car into a low railing. The aftermath: Fog light smashed A few dents, bends and scratches on the bodywork Most importantly – the offside headlight washer jet nozzle popped off completely, and all the washer fluid drained out. I was absolutely gutted when I saw it, especially as we’ve got guests coming from abroad and we’re heading to Europe for a holiday this Saturday (via Dover–Calais ferry). I managed to pick up the pop-up spray cover – that seems fine – but the barrel/nozzle underneath has either snapped or come loose. I’ve been to a few garages, but they’re all fully booked (classic timing, right?). A mate suggested getting the original Skoda part (which I’ve now ordered) and said the fix is basically just attaching the new nozzle to the pipe and reconnecting the cover. The catch? The front bumper needs to come off to do the job. He’s offered to put the car on a ramp and block the pipe to stop any leaks, so I can at least use the windscreen washer for the drive up to Scandinavia. Then after the holiday, I can get the bodywork sorted and have the nozzle properly fitted at the same time. I’ve tried scouring YouTube for videos on replacing this barrel-type offside headlight washer nozzle, but no luck so far. My questions: Is this something I could realistically fit myself if I remove the bumper? Has anyone done this before and can share tips or a guide? Any advice for a quick temporary fix for the trip, so the windscreen washer still works? I can tackle the fog light replacement later myself – it’s this washer nozzle that’s stressing me out right now. Thanks in advance for any help or tips!

After replacing the ARB links on both front wheels, the noise is pretty much gone now. There's still a slight rattle from a panel or something, but it's nothing major – totally bearable.

Massive thanks to everyone who chipped in with their thoughts—really appreciate the input! Had the car checked over at a garage, and they went through all the suspension components and bushes while it was up on the ramp. No obvious faults were found, and apparently, the noise isn’t coming from the bonnet latch or any of the other suggestions put forward here. The garage lads were stumped, so I decided to take matters into my own hands. Started pushing down on the front right side to side to replicate the noise and that’s when I finally heard the clicking noise. The more pressure I applied, the more it made that exact sound I’ve been talking about. Back on the ramp for round two, this time with an even more thorough check. But still—nothing. In the end, they just told me to drive it until it gets worse. Not exactly reassuring, considering most of the suspension components are new. So, here’s the big question—how on earth do I pinpoint the dodgy part? Anyone got a trick up their sleeve for this sort of thing? Cheers again for all the help!

Listened to your video. Your noise sounds more engine-related. Mine’s more of a bonnet-area rattle when the car is rolling at low speeds. Could be something loose or knocking against a panel.

Nice points picked up. you are a genius. I didn’t even think about some of these! Bonnet latch could definitely be a suspect, I’ll check that. Drop links are fairly new, and the radiator feels solid. fan is bit shaky, but i don't think it is coming from radiator fan. The noise doesn’t happen when stationary, even if I bounce the car or rock the engine, but only when rolling at low speed or bumpy road, definitely. Could be something knocking around under the bonne.

Yeah, it happens when the car is rolling, but it’s not linked to revs. Even if I just let the car coast at low speed, I get this rattling ‘dheng dheng’ sound from the bonnet area.

Yeah, it’s definitely not engine-related. The noise only happens when the car is moving, even at slow speeds like 5-10mph. I’ll try to get a recording if i can.

Yes, the MIB1 multimedia unit in your Mk3 Octavia is coded to the car, so simply swapping it out with another unit won't work straight away. You'll need to get the replacement component protection removed and recoded using ODIS (dealer software) or a specialist with the right tools. Regarding the serial numbers, the "S7E" and "SK7" prefixes might indicate different regional versions or hardware revisions. It’s best to match the part number exactly with your current unit to avoid compatibility issues. If you're upgrading from MIB1 to MIB2, you’ll also need a compatible screen, USB port, and possibly a new gateway module. If you’re just replacing a faulty MIB1 unit, try to get one from the same model year to make coding easier. Hope that helps – let us know how you get on! 👍

Mate, appreciate the input, but no need to get snarky. If someone’s genuinely interested in helping, they’ll ask if they need more details rather than having a dig. That’s how forums work, isn’t it? I’m not just here to get a definitive answer – I know no one can diagnose a car over the internet. But sometimes, someone with a similar issue might chime in with a useful clue, which could lead me in the right direction. That’s exactly why forums exist – to discuss, compare, and troubleshoot. If you’ve got any constructive ideas, I’m all ears. If not, maybe let the thread run its course – you never know who might have the missing piece of the puzzle.