[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

This message is from the Relay used, it was designed for the Cruise RNS300 but can be used with the Amundsen RNS310.

 

I only see that message infrequently. Don't worry about it.

 

Glad you got it sorted.

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

Quick glance that looks OK to me!

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

Simply use the pinout diagram that should be on the radio and trace the wires along. The wire colours are irrelevant.

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

On 21/06/2018 at 19:11, loony said:

Could you explain a bit about this conversion? I am new to a roomster (2008 model 3, pick up soon) and I will want to fit my Kenwood KDC X5000BT headunit, JBL amp and 12 inch Sub instead of the stock HU.

 

Does canbus affect this change and is it only for the readout to continue to work?

 

Thanks

Can't help you with regards to your Kenwood. But the conversion this topic is about is because the radio uses a newer CANBUS than car has, so the "relay" does a conversion. 

 

On 07/08/2018 at 13:07, aCid_BiH said:

Hi all,

 

sorry for popping up this topic, but has anyone been able to fit RNS315 (Amundsen+) to Roomster 06'?

 

My main issue isn't regarding the MFD display of navigation directions (I would definitely love to have it), but regarding Amundsen+ communication with vehicle and turning off problem. Also, I cannot use built in phone since the device doesn't recognize that the car is ignited. 

 

Please if anyone has any information, let me know.

 

 

I'm not sure, as stated in the OP. 

 

If you used the relay in the parts list, I'd say that the RNS315 is more like the Columbus (requires a much more expensive converter)

[Roomster Scout: 1.6 Auto - driveshaft front right part number?]

So it (grinding/vibrating noise) is not the wheel bearing.  

 

Looks like a loose coupling where the drive shaft enters the gearbox. 

 

Will search forum for this now

[Roomster Scout: 1.6 Auto - driveshaft front right part number?]

Thanks.

 

I couldn't find any used for sale in the UK. Skoda wanted £352 for new one.

 

I ended up buying one from allegro in Poland, £81 delivered. Part number was 6QD407272L.

 

Next I need a wheel bearing! FFS

[Roomster Scout: 1.6 Auto - driveshaft front right part number?]

Roomster Scout: 1.6 Auto (07 plate)

 

Can anybody confirm the part number for the driver side front driveshaft?

 

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/RO/year/2007/drive_standart/481/hg_ug/407/subcategory/407062/part_id/2546223/lang/e

 

6QD407272L —discontinued 2014?

6QD407272LX —discontinued 2010?

 

Using registration plate search, everywhere says "out of stock" which is a bit odd.

 

Any OEM alternatives?

[Why different tyres on the Scout?]

My Scout came with 17" aftermarket rims on it, I changed them to 16" VAG rims after my wife hit a rock. 

[Change language in Amundsen]

What version maps are you running?

 

Are Amundsen RNS310 

Or Amundsen+ RNS315

Or new Amundsen

 

?

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

You're welcome!

 

I'm intrigued that the time is wrong. How many hours is it out? 

 

I'll look into it. 

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

11 hours ago, Joelfletch said:

I actually just Googled how to use those scotch taps so I understand that you don't need to solder. The parts that are confusing me now is how do I identify which wire is what and how do I ensure that my relay has its own wiring harness? 

All wires are marked at every connector: relay, radio, car,  extension. 

 

Unless you buy a relay without wiring it should come with them. 

 

For me the relay was the most difficult thing to source. 

 

If the RNS310 didn't come with a GPS antenna you'll need one of those. And possibly a splitter for the radio antenna. 

 

Get back on touch when you're ready to do it! @joelfletch

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

@Joelfletch do you have each item in the requirements list? 

[Fabia / Roomster can bus upgrade]

@Joelfletch let's take it to my thread, link above, as that's where all the information is. 

[Matt's 2007 Skoda Roomster Scout Tiptronic]

 

[Fabia / Roomster can bus upgrade]

Yes, I've fitted one.

 

Normally you'd plug the headunit straight into the car wiring. But here you need to fit the adapter in-between the car and headunit, so it can do the translation between CANBUS 1.6 to CANBUS 2.0 in both directions.

 

Details here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434201-fitting-a-canbus-20-headunit-in-a-pre-facelift-roomsterfabia-canbus-16/

 

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

34 minutes ago, rhinopower said:

Where did you get the relay, and cost?

 

Just added a link in the guide above to another thread I have about that.

 

Spoiler: from the Czech Republic for ~ £68 delivered.

 

cheers!

 

 

[Fitting a CANBUS 1.6 <-> 2.0 adapter for Roomster/Fabia (5J)]

If you are reading this you may be trying to fit a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia which are CANBUS 1.6

 

I searched high and low on Briskoda, and elsewhere for this information, so I figured I would put it all in one place to save somebody else some time!

 

Details here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434201-fitting-a-canbus-20-headunit-in-a-pre-facelift-roomsterfabia-canbus-16/

 

[Kufatec canbus adaptor fitting?]

Just replying on all the topics that lead me nowhere with some actual answers...

 

The Kufatec package is actually just the official Skoda Relay 487 with an additional wiring harness.

This is reflected in the price which is about 1.5 times the cost of the relay on its own.

 

I bought the relay in its own and it did not come with fitting instructions, so I had to figure it out myself.

 

Details here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434201-fitting-a-canbus-20-headunit-in-a-pre-facelift-roomsterfabia-canbus-16/

 

[Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)]

If you are reading this you may be trying to fit a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia which are CANBUS 1.6

 

It is possible, but you need an adapter which needs to be wired between the car and the headunit.

 

Before you begin

The only thing you do in the car is plug everything in. 

 

All the preparation work can be done from a comfortable chair and table/desk. And that is just identifying your wires, plugging things together, and cutting the correct two wires. 

 

RNS300 "Cruise"

RNS310 "Amundsen"

You need a Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

I also used a Quadlock extension cable (see below) so that I was not actually cutting or crimping any wires on the car, and so that this modification can easily be removed or moved to another car. This is important because any changes to the coding of the headunit will need to be done in another more modern car, one with CANBUS 2.0 so you will most likely have to remove the headunit at some point.

 

Requirements

1. TORX T20 bit & driver

Notes: even though there's only four screws to undo I used a powered, cordless screwdriver.

 

2. Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors (I got a 10 pair pack on eBay)

Notes: these do not involve any wire cutting or soldering!

the male (paler) part needs to be securely fixed to a wire, I used pliers to really crimp them hard!

the female (darker) part needs to "click shut" on the wire.

 

3. Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751)  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

4. Quadlock extension cable (fully wired 40-pin version on eBay)

 

How to

1. make sure your adapter has some wires or a harness of its own attached

 

2. attach the female tap connectors to the quadlock extension  

wiring is as follows: 

CAN 2H = CAN 2.0 + (to headunit)
CAN 1H = CAN 1.6 + (to car)
CAN 1L = CAN 1.6 – (to car)
31 = GROUND (12v –/negative)
CAN 2L = CAN 2.0 – (to headunit)
30 = BATTERY (12v +/positive)

 

3. IMPORTANT: You need to cut the CAN High/Low wires between the tap connectors for the adapter (red marks on below photo, which was taken before I cut the wires). 

The relay converts from the older car signal to the newer radio signal. Imagine it as a language translator. 
The wires are cut so the older car signals don't get to the radio. 
One half of a cut wire with the car signal goes into the relay and the other half of that wire with the converted signal comes out of the relay ready for the radio. 
If the wires aren't cut then the relay can't work correctly and the old signal is still getting to the radio. 

In short, if you don't cut the wires it will not work 

 

4. connect the adapter to the quad lock extension (I used Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors, which are a male/female pair that can be detached easily if required)

 

5. plug everything in (it's pretty tight back there but with some patience and arrangement it will all fit) — success!

 

Postmortem

• I'm pretty certain that the adapter itself automatically activates navigation on the car MFD as I did not need to code that, it "just worked".

 

• RNS300 announces distances (by voice, and on the maxiDOT/MFD) in kilometres rather than miles.
• Reverse parking radar graphics are not displaying on the new headunit, but reverse warning sound still beeps.

 

Maybe I can code the headunit in another car to change these last two?

 

-- 

 

For other headunits you may have luck with the below information.

RNS315 "Amundsen+"

(not sure)

 

RNS510 "Columbus"

Canshack adapter (no longer sold, you need to find one used)

or OEMplus CAN BUS Adapter (expensive! you will also need to make sure that before you fit the Columbus it is coded to DDP protocol using bit 7 of byte 07)

 

[Sat nav & maxidot question]

So, the answer is yes it does display turn-by-turn directions on the maxiDOT, as long as you use the Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751).

 

See here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/433484-matts-2007-skoda-roomster-scout-tiptronic/?do=findComment&comment=4885536

 

I assume the RNS310 (regular Amundsen) would do the same with the Skoda Relay 487. I'll find out when I upgrade.

 

[2007 Roomster Scout: engine warning light on...]

Something to do with exhaust efficiency.

 

Will take a look with VCDS soon.

 

Friendly local VAG nut says the 1.6 engine in my roomster has a common problem with Lambda sensor and/or cat?

[VCDS Adaptations. How do I ..........]

Anybody with experience coding a 2007 Skoda Roomster or Fabia (5J)? 

 

I've just fitted an RNS300 navigation headunit (with Skoda Relay 487 to have it work at all) in my Roomster Scout 16V Auto, and have a couple of quirks that I believe can be fixed through coding:

 

1. Navigation "next turn" distances on the MFD (MaxiDOT) are shown (and the voice announces them) in KM rather than Miles. 

 

2. The rear parking sensor pixel graphics display is no longer working or showing on the headunit. I still get the long beep when engaging reverse, just no radar waves. 

 

Any help appreciated!

 

Given that the car is CANBUS 1.6 and the headunit CANBUS 2.0 I have to use Skoda Relay 487 to make them talk together. So perhaps the headunit needs coding in a CANBUS 2.0 car?

 

Cheers,
matt

[Matt's 2007 Skoda Roomster Scout Tiptronic]

Fitted the RNS300 today after a lengthy preparation phase! 

 

Interesting process, didn't go how I expected but was successful. 

 

Write up soon. 

 

 

[Hello from West Cornwall]

Mine didn't have one, but I think it should be easy to reverse the steps above.

[Hello from West Cornwall]

6 hours ago, tedious said:

Hi Matt,

 

I am curious how easy was the armrest lid work. I have a Fabia mk2 and want to swap the cloth covered one for a vinyl. I am not sure if you did something similar but will take any tips that you can give me.

 

Kind regards

 

tedious 

Actually, I posted my how to in a thread about the Fabia mk2 armrest, but here it is again: 

 

flip back armrest to vertical position, get in back seat. now slide one leg in and the lid will be angled to one side (which is why you can't do this so easy in the front seat), then you can slide the other leg in, and make sure the little knobs on both legs are correctly seated in their holes. job done.