MinkyMike

Ah cheers pal, yeah I've got an 2002 plate so guessing I'll have to suck it out, might just try topping it up like sepulchrave said.. not much point spending another 15 quid for a litre if it's not gonna make a difference... Thanks for replys

Hi all, so after changing the timing chain and coolant pump, the engines lovely and quiet now so quiet I've noticed another noise ! So when the car is in nutural, it's like a tapping noise/bearing, but I can only hear it in nutural, push the clutch in and this noise disappears, it had a new clutch kit fitted last year , done a bit of googling and think it's a input Shaft bearing, so i figured this first and easiest thing I could do would be to change the transmission oil, because it might not of been changed for 120k miles, I'm not sure if A1 clutches use the same stuff they drain when doing the clutch hell I'm not even sure if you have to drain it to do the clutch, but I'd imagine they would reuse to save money as it's 15 quid a litre, is this something that may help anyone else think it's worth a try? Thanks again all. Just pulled this from Google A worn or defective input shaft bearing can cause noisy operation in neutral with the engine running. The pitch or tone of the noise changes with engine speed and a slight vibration might be felt through the shifter. This symptom can also be caused by deficient gear oil levels or quality. Thanks Mike

Ah it's all sorted now mate it turned out to be a water pump bearing, although the chain might of been making a noise as well , the car has done 120k and the chain was pretty stretched, quiet as a mouse now, apart from knocking when going over speed bumps ! That's my next job , bushes?? Lol

No way that's definitely useful if you've not got anyone to hold the brake hehe

ok so it's done, all good now was the water pump bearing, there was no resistance when turning and it sounded like metal rubbing onto metal, wasn't the easiest of jobs, the pump took some getting off once the bolts were out, a crowbar, wiggling in between the engine and pump helped and hitting it with an hammer to break it free, the hardest part of this job was removing the rubber coolant pipe, the clips came off easy with the flexible hose clamp tool, couldnt of done it without that as there really is no space at all! the coolant pipe had welded / glued itself on even once the clips was off, managed to use a mechanics hook to eventually free it, putting it all back together was a doddle.. anyway.. see how it goes over the next few weeks , with timing chain as well, if its still running smoothly I'll write a tutorial with photos to hopefully help someone else who wanted to do this themselves, the Haynes manual states you need to remove the oil pump etc.. which you don't, it also calls for top dead centre, which you don't need either as you can turn the crankshaft by putting the bolt back in, and then align the timing marks.. also someone on here said to jam a screwdriver into the flywheel (could cause damange!) or, remove the starter motor, and screw a bolt grinded up a point into the teeth (hard work lol) when really all you need to do is get someone to press the break hard, and both nuts undo no problem at all. (crankshaft & camshaft bolt) peace all and thanks for the help/advise! Mikey

Ok thanks for the info, yes I've got those hose clamp pliars now with the flexible cable.. when removing the engine mount do I just need to remove the 3 bolts at the top of the water pump, and the 4 bolts connecting it to the car ? Ie I can leave the 1 bolt that goes through the middle can't I, I have blue threadlocker I shall use that on the bolts.. i have the torque settings in the Haynes manual but I noticed it says 90 degrees after the torque, does that mean torque to spec, then a further 90, then 1/4 ? Also no thread locker on the bit that bolts the pump to the engine ? Thanks again Mike

Haha that's a good idea like it

There looks to be alot of rust around the water pump and like a white dry liquid, I'm think water pump as well, it was only 20 quid, would be alot cheap if it was that as the alternator is expensive, but yeah even if it's not, there no harm in changing the pump for that price is there.. hopefully last a few more years then. Oh and thanks for the tip on the idler.. I'd have to get a 21 mm noose neck spanner if it is that not much room there for a socket, had to get a 24 mm one from Halfords for the crankshaft bolt

Ah wicked thanks again, I'll do the same then I guess and just periodically check them, cheers again mate

Yeah definitely will should be doing it on Tuesday, I'll try get a video showing the noises before and after .. I was convinced it was a chain noise but maybe it's a dodgy bearing.. ah well wait and see . Thanks mate , the car as done 119k, it's recently had the clutch done because that went . But it was really sounding smooth the engine without that aux belt . Very happy

Ok so this is my next job, I've scoured the forum, and can see how its done, also I've looked at that workshop manual, my only question is, in the workshop manual it says to use an engine support bar, which I don't have access to and would be pretty expensive for this one job, I've heard you jack up from the sump just to support the engine, like using a 2x4 peice of wood on the jack, and under the sump (to distribute the load), as anyone else done this on a skoda fabia? is it doable doing it this way? also do the engine mount bolts need replacing after being undone? (one time use?) thanks again for any info guys! regards Mike.

Just tried this and boom no noise coming from the new chain it's quiet !! Well happy that it's not that, because it's a right pain ain't it to get to it again so thanks for that info mate I'm alot happier driving it knowing it's a dodgy pump noise or alternator, means I did a good job on chain ! Now, to see which one it is, I've already got a new water pump so I'll do that first, then alternator if it's still there.. Gave idler pulley a shake by hand but there doesn't seem to be any sideways movement or noises at all

Just tried this and boom no noise coming from the new chain it's quiet !! Well happy that it's not that, because it's a right pain ain't it to get to it again so thanks for that info mate I'm alot happier driving it knowing it's a dodgy pump noise or alternator, means I did a good job on chain ! Now, to see which one it is, I've already got a new water pump so I'll do that first, then alternator if it's still there..

Of course yes makes sense should be enough to identify if the sound is still there though. Brilliant I will try tomorrow 😊

No way that's a good idea mate, I never thought of that, I will try that for sure tomorrow and post an update ! Cheers pal

Yes mate it's running okay, but that newchain is still making the same noise.. it's still the same.. can't work it out..

I'll try get a video up on YouTube of the noise maybe someone else might have an idea .

Yes mate, it doesn't leak a drop, thanks for the replies. ..

So, I started it up and it started fine, so I didn't mess the timing up, however it still sounds the bloody same, rattling chain sound.. seems like it's coming from that same direction of the new chain.. I give up, least I know it's had a new one, but for it being quiter, it ain't.. unless it's something else making the noise... Can't really see how I would of not done it right, it's like 1 bolt after all.. Nightmare !

Ah I did spot that on the pdf but wasn't sure what it meant , ah cheers for clarifying that mate very much appreciated. fingers n toes crossed then because if I've gotta redo it and have another day off work because I can't get there im skint next week !! Lol

Correction it does ! Damn how did I mess that ! O.o idiot I am

Yes mate they do, unfortunately it doesn't say that on the bottle ! I was rushing it because it was raining.. normally I would of googled it.. kicking myself now at least of it fails it's only gonna make a mess and I'll have to redo it .. I'll post updates incase anyone else makes this same rookie error..

Thanks ! I've managed to keep myself busy today so gonna try it in the morning now 😃. What I didn't do which is playing on my mind is wipe any oil off the mating surfaces. I used a scraper and cleaned both surfaces but didn't use a rag or anything to dry it ! Wonder if it will fail because of this . Umm

Hi all still eagerly awaiting a sump gasket to cure says 24 hours on there website , but as anyone tried this in less time its been 12 hrs at 1300.. itching to try it i would just like to put oil in it and make sure it starts after timing chain done.. then it will be left all night again without use

hehe thanks mate, i did a Peugeot 106 years ago, and must of been out by one tooth, because it sounded like a gun! (been dreading any timing work ever since) got to say this was an easier process but I think this engine is probably one of the easiest to do? there so close together and it only links 2 sprockets.. thanks! i did try removing these clips (water pump) with mole grips, but there really isn't room. if car ok tomorrow I will buy for sure