MinkyMike

sorry to bring up an old thread, but my key as started spinning in the drivers side door today, (it has been hard to turn for the last 2 days again, I was gonna spray more wd40 today but the Mrs went to it today and obviously forced it, LOL says she didn't!) it as been stiff before but putting in a flat head driver and some wd40 solved it temporarily, but now it wont open either from inside either (pulling the door lever just seems to jam, the button by the window doesn't come up fully), so I'm guessing this part as gone on my car, any idea of the part number? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-2000-2005-OFFSIDE-DRIVER-SIDE-FRONT-MANUAL-DOOR-LOCK-CATCH-MECHANISM/303118222305?hash=item46934103e1:g:TrEAAOSwy2Ncp7ut I think this is it, non electrical version, no central locking, however it seems very expensive for the state it looks. thanks Cars.. always something... the list just keeps growing also I remember taking the door panel off before to try and have a look, but it seems the metal panel is riveted on, so I left it there as using a screw driver seemed to unstick it, so I cant actually see my part, I don't want to take it all apart unless I've brought a rivet gun and got the correct part to put back in, I'm gonna take the lock barrel out in a bit just to make sure it isn't that, if it is that then ill just swap barrel with the passenger door, but because it seems as if the button on the inside of the door is jamming, I think its the internal lock mechanism. As always any help/advise would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!

Maybe it's just a rough idle like yours then ? The misfire fault code as gone.. , I've put some stp injector cleaner in and a full tank, see how it goes, still waiting for them breather pipes, but it was Lithuania so god knows when that will come, maybe it's just me lol maybe it's ok. It drives and pulls fine.

well, its not the coil pack.

Ah, Found in another thread cheers TMB!

Okay, so, Head Gasket is done, The header tank is keeping its coolant on max, lovely and pink! (nice new coolant tank I ordered febi) No mayonnaise in the oil filler cap, No pressure the next day in the coolant tank, and also no bubbles when its running, so fingers crossed it stays this way! Tappets sound lovely as well. Onto the next issue, It's still seems to be rough idling(as before), some hesitation now and again when accelerating, like its misfiring I'd say, I've plugged it backing VAG COM Shareware and the misfire fault as gone though? Also I did fit new spark plugs. Anyway I've just ordered a new coil pack on carparts4less, HASS, for £43 pound including delivery! (at least I can rule it out then), I didn't want to go the 2nd hand route just incase I got a dud Because I Love Throwing money at this car!! lol Hopefully this solves it, if not, I might be looking at replacing Fuel Injectors, but this seems an expensive option. I'll update when it arrives.. Just to add to this post, It had a new battery about 6 months ago, and I had been occasionally putting in that red injector cleaner in the fuel, not often but now and again when I was feeling flush, yeah not often also the hoses from the rocker cover are really soft, collapsible and perished, anyone know where I can find this, cant seem to find them on eurocarparts.

Sometimes it's trial and error, and a process of elimination exactly the same with a pc. Mechanics in my experience have gave me false information in the past, I don't trust any of them because of this anymore, it's a shame because I bet there are some great honest ones out there, I'm yet to find one, do you really know if they replaced that part if you didn't see them do it with your own eyes? I was quoted £600 by a local highly rated garage on Google to change a clutch, with the kit costing about £60 pounds. None of us have got money to waste of replacing parts that aren't faulty, but sometimes it's a way of saying, well it's not that then, and at least you know that part is new and should last.

Thanks all 😊, also just to add to this, if anyone is going to do this I would recommend setting each cylinder to zero lash, before adding any preloads, so you know the car will start , then as you add the preload too each cylinder, once the car starts you know you can move onto the next one, if it doesn't start put it back to that same overlap and leave it longer. (No need to adjust anything) Peace 🤣

And it's all done , few, if it didn't have work tonight I'd definitely have a beer... See how it goes the next couple of days fingers crossed the head gasket is all okay.. the last two cylinders I waited 3 hrs then 2 for the last one . Thanks for the advise everyone , you've saved a cars life

I think had they not been full of oil at the factory then no bleeding would of been required because apparently the spring takes up the lash, but they was solid, maybe they fill them with oil to stop any springs or parts from rusting..

Yep the next one done while I was sleep took about 3 hrs.. not sure why the 2nd one took so long but doesn't matter , it's bleeding the final one now !! Going to try it in 3 hrs if no luck I'll just leave it over night.

Thanks all for your input ! feel.like slowly getting there not even sure if the head gasket as worked yet lol ! Inching closer to finding out though.

That's true mate, I guess I was being too impatient , from what I've seen on YouTube, not these exact tappets but people have been compressing them to get the old oil out with a vice ! Anyway it's setup and bleeding the next one so gonna go to bed.

Leaving it over night worked .. onto the next cylinder .

Yes definitely, maybe if it doesn't skipping this leave it at zero lash and move on a cylinder .. the possibilitys are endless lol , looks like I'll be insuring the mother in law's car.. definitely a hum bug

This oil around the old ones was quite think and dark like nasty old oil that hadn't moved much maybe this is making it difficult for them to bleed .

They was in plastic tubes and seemed to be covered with oil from new, I'm not sure if they was full of oil inside or if this was just a coating to stop any rusting, I did try and push the plunger down with the pushrod before I put them in just out of interest to see it they were squishy, but they we're solid and did not move, just like the old ones I took out.

I thought the 2 preloads was to take up any compensation and how it would auto adjust

You reckon go back to it?

Well it's starting with 2 preloads in cylinder one.. they seem to have taken up the 2 turns Yeah I did that procedure and it worked

They was fully pumped up I tried pushing a Rod into one before I dropped them into the engine and there was no springyness, that didn't budge setting them to lash they would have no room to auto adjust because there already at the end of there travel

Gonan leave it overnight on overlap 2, with 2 preloads in cylinder 3.. see if it starts in the morning .. It really has stumped me I was sure it would work after 3vhrs the first cylinder only took 30 mins :/

If I set the all to just touching it starts nicely, but obviously there is no preload then so there not doing there job properly are they?

Did you drive your can around after setting it to zero lash TMB maybe the extra force if you did might of freezed them up abit if dislodged any air locks ...

Surprised I ain't bent any valves .. wonder how close there coming to the piston