Dogtanian1234

**Update** Car has now been diagnosed with a failed solenoid valve on the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (ERG) resulting in getting no power down. Manifold has to be stripped down & turbo seals will be replaced aswell as good practice to do this while this work is done. What I understand is this is quite a big job to do. Had to get the part directly from Skoda as when trying to source the solenoid valve elsewhere the multiplug wouldnt fit despite all my details being inputed correctly when searching with 3rd party suppliers. Apparently this is a fairly common fault and the garage where my car is being repaired advised me they have replaced quite a few of them before. Still waiting on a quote on the part from Skoda and labour costs but will update this later when I know 👍

Thought I'd update this thread as I recently had a simlar issue. The DPF light came on my dash when driving, usually I would drive on the motorway at high speed to clear this but foolishly carried on doing short start/stop runs and the light stayed on and never cleared. Had to take it to a garage were they found a small percentage of soot was blocked in the DPF and wouldnt burn off during the regeneration process as normal. Luckily the garage managed to reprogram the computer in the car to fool it so it thought a new DPF had been fitted. This fixed the problem as it burned off the remaining soot that had clogged it & saved me a costly repair as I was only charged £60.

Just had my car diagnosed with a EGR Valve fault. Got a loss of power and going into "limp mode" also got the amber engine management light showing on the dashboard constantly. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue before to find out if this can be cleaned or it's a new unit that's needed?

Thanks for the reply Sparky, the problem was with the selector fork in the gearbox. Had to get the gearbox refurbished to resolve the issue with it.

Just provide a quick update on this as I've just heard back from the garage. The mechanic seems to think it's a problem with the selector tower or a gearbox failure, still has to do a more thorough diagnostic but did say the gears don't sound good. Does sound costly but hopefully covered under warranty. Wondering if anyone on here with a good knowledge of cars could give me advice please on if they think I should be covered? Under warranty it covers Transmission Casing, Shafts, Bearings and Bushes, Synchromesh Hubs and SELECTORS, Extension Shaft, Gear Linkage and Gear Lever. Tried googling this but I'm hopeless with cars lol.

My skoda rapid 2013 plate 1.6 TDI with 80,000 miles on the clock has just encountered a gearbox issue. The 2nd gear has always been a bit notchy but today it wouldn't go into 2nd gear at all. Didnt feel right going into 4th gear and when I put it in reverse the gear stick stuck and wouldnt budge an inch. AA came out and said it may be a fault with the gear linkage cable as it's become stretched during normal usage. Has anyone ever got this fault or had any issues like this? Not sure if it's a common fault or possibly another issue.

.

Hi I'm looking to find infomation on a service schedule for a 1.6 TDI 2013 Skoda Rapid. I drive mostly motorway miles around 14,000 miles a year and to date has done 73,000 miles. Thanks

Just got an update from Skoda, it should be changed 140,000 miles or every 5 years whatever comes first.

Hi Everyone Looking for help on when my timing belt should be changed on my Skoda Rapid 2013 TDI, it's done 63,000 miles. Thanks in advance

Yeah covered under a Arnold Clark AutoCare policy luckily.

A quick update on this, thought it might have been a fault with a sensor or a problem at the control stalk. But now fixed and all working after the rear wiper motor was replaced.

I've got Arnold Clark Autocare so should be covered just need to check the terms and conditions to make sure.

Wondering if anyone can help with this. When I try to clear my back window wiper it cleans it stops halfway round, pauses for about 10 secs then goes back round to complete its cycle. I've only just noticed this but I'm sure it's meant to complete a full cycle in one flick of a switch without pausing but could be wrong? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

I was suspicious as well when I got the car back and thought the dealers might be pulling a fast one but once I got it back the noise dissapears if the handbrake the off and left in gear so it is definitely the rear brake pads like they said. Also had it also checked by a mechanic afterwards for piece of mind and he confirmed the same thing cheap pads and because they are just brand new was the cause.

Well got the car back today and the dealership advised the creaking noise is because the brake pads have just been recently changed but the noise should be gone when the pads have been bed in properly. Apparently when the handbrake is applied this causes the creaking sound but when the handbrake is off the sound disappears.

I have spoken with the dealer and they are going to look at the car on Friday so I will update this as soon as I find out what's wrong if they find a problem.

Handbrake seems tight so dont think its that, when you grab either of the back wheels when stationary and give it a good shake I can replicate the creaking noise.

I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with a creaking noise coming from axle/suspension when passengers or the driver are entering or leaving the car, seems to be worse when the car is parked on a hill. Checked the springs and they look very solid so don't think it's that and it has just passed its MOT with no advisories. The car is only 4 years old with 55,000 miles on the clock not sure if it's build quality or something else.

Wondering if anyone has had a creaking noise coming from the back to middle axle when passengers are entering or leaving the car from the rear and front passenger side. Checked the springs and they look very solid so don't think it's that and it has just passed its MOT with no advisories. The car is only 4 years old with 55,000 miles on the clock not sure if it's build quality or might be an issue with the car?

This fix worked just put some of the product around the rubber seal and the squeak is gone

Product: Collinite 845 Insulator Wax Reason: Easy to apply and can even apply to glass and plastic trim without leaving any marks. Product: 3M Clay bar Reason: Best clay bar I have used, takes off tar and bugs with ease. Product: Autoglym Super Resin Polish Reason: Easy to apply and buff off and the shine is brilliant Product: Wurth Active Glass Cleaner Reason: Spays on as a foam and doesn’t leave any streaks or residue

Thanks Mick ill try this when I get paid on friday and report back on how it worked.

Cheers JED not too bad just a rattling noise from the door only minor but enough to to annoy me lol

I have this annoying rattling noise coming from the driver's door. Sounds like it's coming from the window or the rubber seal? Don't hear it as much on the motorway but it's still there and worse on uneven roads. When I put the window down slightly it goes away. I have a 2013 1.6 TDI Greentech elegance and has only done 55,000, wondering if anyone has figured out a fix or it's just to do with build quality?