Alan_P

Do you mean with the bonnet open/closed or just in general? I will be able to check the comparison on my car in a few days.

It’s always at least a day after any charging before I take a reading. I leave the bonnet open, lock the car then leave it at least 30 min before testing. It might not be perfect, but I really don’t want to disconnect the battery.

I would be really interested in what resting voltage other owners get and if they use start-stop. I wonder if changing the temp or voltage threshold with VCDS would be better than manually disabling start-stop.

I recently had similar concerns with my battery. I have a LUKAS LK-290 power management device feeding dash cams. It cuts the power at 12.6v so the battery never deep cycles. For years it gave an hour or two of recording after ignition off, but I noticed a few months back that the cams were not running on at all any more. This could have been going on for quite a while to be fair given the last year. It’s a Varta AGM that’s nearly 4 years old so just presumed it was on the way out or just needed a good charge due to lack of use. I threw a multimeter on and the resting voltage was 12.2 which is not great. No warning lights, error codes or even the slightest hesitation at turnover. I had a friend put it on their workshop Bosch tester (see attached) and it came back as good but needing charged. It’s also putting out a very healthy 803 cranking amps (rated at 680) which explains why there is no hesitation and no dead cells. It’s levelling 11.84v on turnover with a minimum drop of 8.9v which is fine for a low charge state. I gave it a two day charge with CTEK MXS 5.0 (recon enabled) and everything seemed fine, it didn’t detect any sulfation and no errors. I checked the resting voltage a day later without having used the car and it was a healthy 12.9v. I tested it again a day after using the car a few times through the week during daytime with no heavy load and the resting voltage was back to 12.4. For whatever reason, battery management is deciding not to fully charge the battery, not even to 80%. I told the system the battery was swapped out by changing the last digit, but it’s still the same. I notice the alternator initially goes to boost for around 30 sec of 14.6-14.8v then drops back to ~13v even after the battery reset. I just went out to test and resting voltage is 12.3v after not using it for 3 days so it's low but there doesn't seem to be a drain. I understand this might be normal, but it didn’t behave like this before. I don't have figures from a few years ago, but I think the lack of dash cam run on indicates something is different. I can’t work out why management has decided to keep it at ~60% instead of 80-90% charged. I have always manually disabled start-stop every time I use the car and now wondering if it actually causes a problem.

From what I read, coolant change is not on the service schedule... in the UK anyway. It’s a lifetime item because of the bag/cartridge. G12evo doesn’t appear to have lifetime silica either so I just wonder if it’s an oversight or the schedule includes a coolant change now.

Are cars coming from the factory with a revised tank... no bag or cartridges? Do they get an altered service schedule to include a coolant change?

So do new models with a revised tank (no bag or cartridges) get an altered service schedule to include a coolant change?

I have the singled walled version (visible bag) and I’m now planning to remove it. Are people going for the new tank revision because they currently have the double walled/inaccessible version or because it has cartridges that don’t leak? Also, if I remove the bag today on a 3.5 year old car (15k miles) will it give 5 years before flush/replace is needed or does the bag silica dissipate faster?

Even the flexible schedule should request at a maximum of around 2 years... regardless of very low miles. It would be best to get it done to simplify any future warranty claims and not give them an easy way out. A good independent garage is an option for servicing though.

Mine were 300mm... the 310mm are vented and supposedly fit too though.

Mine were pretty bad and the nearside had even started to thump, but they would have passed: I went with Pagid (£98) for the zinc coating and general quality, but I could have got cheap Eicher pads and discs for around £50. If I didn’t have a friend with a garage I would have done them myself and you could get Carista for a one month sub... much cheaper than VCDS obviously.

They were the correct discs and pads... thanks again @D402 No specialist tools needed, but even with the parking brake off it needs to be electronically relaxed for winding in. Forcing it will cause damage. My friend used a high end Bosch diag unit, but obviously Carista would be better for a one off. I know it’s only 14k miles total and not being used as much recently, but I'm still out twice a week for city driving. Inside of the discs were quite bad and pads were almost gone:

I’m not sure, a friend is doing them at the weekend... I will ask and let you know.

Thanks I managed to clear a slight thump from the near side rear disk with some heavy braking, but it returned quickly. It wasn’t quite enough to fail a MOT but still very annoying. I suppose I could clean them up properly, but I probably wouldn’t get another year with the lack of use at the moment. Front discs look new in comparison. I went for Pagid because of the zinc coating and they don’t rust outside of the contact area. Great results on previous cars too... only £98 for pads and discs.

I picked up a set of Pagid rear discs and pads from Euro Car Parts and wondering if someone can confirm I got the right size for a 2017 2.0 TDi 150 SE? They list vented and solid discs and only one set of pads when I use my reg. I have solid rear discs so I went for the 300mm solid option. I thought it was a little strange they only list one set of pads with solid 300mm and vented 310mm disc options, but was assured they are OK for the solid discs. To be fair they do list the pad fitment as OK for 300mm and 310mm discs. When I manually enter the model on their site, instead of one solid disc option, I get the same 300mm and a 272mm and two 282mm options. I wouldn’t have given it a second thought and just accepted the reg option, but the car never had vented discs and I don’t even think there was an upgrade or option for the SE to get vented discs. Side note, I realise everyone knows, but OEM rear discs are trash haha.

I’m trying to fit the following cam to a 17 plate Superb salon SE: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917491245.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6e933c00ZSbXGq&mp=1 I used the following guide for wiring and coding... excluding the CAN connections: https://www.cars-equipment.com/base/files/shop-attachments/6495308/44280.-kodovanie-6C-Highline-cam.pdf I then realised the coding was for Highline only and my Bolero MMI will only work with Lowline config. I reset and changed to this coding: https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/vw-tiguan-touareg-common-faults-and-problem/vw-tiguan-5n-mib2-highline-camera-installation/ Select module 10 Park/Steer Assist Go to coding 07, long coding helper and select Byte 2. Then change Bit 4-5 to rear view camera installed, Exit and select Do It to change the coding. Follow the same method for module 5F Information Electronics. Select Byte 19 and check Bit 4, Exit and select Do It to change the coding. Exit VCDS. After doing an MMI reset it appeared to work and changed the MMI to the correct layout, but there is no camera picture, just a black display behind the park assist overlay. It also occasionally displays “Park assist is not available” when coming out of reverse gear. I also notice the following fault code: 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 1 Fault Found: 131689 - Rear View Camera System Control Module U104C 00 [009] - No communication Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 48 Mileage: 30042 km Date: 2020.03.21 Time: 18:13:02 I have checked the cabling many times. The continuity of the FAKRA cable from the head unit loom sockets (pin 12 and 6) back to tailgate is good. The camera is also getting power and ground at the camera side. When I reverse the coding, clear codes and do a full scan there are no fault codes. Is my coding or cabling wrong? Could it be a faulty camera?