anewman

There's no car with the registration KE14 NAN.

Going to view a used car, and considering whether I take my laptop and cable to plug in and scan for any codes. How likely is it a trade seller would object? Could it reveal any issues if there are no warning lights on the dash? Thanks.

Is an SE L executive model. Has nearly 150k miles on it. Looks like it's been impeccably maintained as MOT history shows zero fails/advisories, though actual hard evidence of main dealer skoda service history only present for first 80k miles. Any specific issues to look out for? Thanks.

Recently came across this post which suggests it only appeared in UK models ordered before April 2016. Also seen a couple of photos on AutoTrader clearly showing a TV image.

Wonder what would be lost upgrading to aftermarket HU (with Android auto)?

I believe it's only in L&K spec.

I believe it's the Mk3 as it has the black/silver badge and newer look. Mileage is 138,000 and I am told it has full Skoda Main Dealer service history so inclined to think cambelt etc has been done to service schedule. It has the Columbus head unit of the time. Wondering if there might be a way to swap head unit for a later one that is Android Auto capable. I guess if I did that I would lose the TV tuner (L&K spec). Many thanks in advance for any input.

Have had the occasional immobiliser issue too and imagine it would sort that. Whenever I've tried reflowing solder before, I've ended up doing more harm than good. Probably using too much heat. I'll have to watch through some videos on YouTube and hopefully learn something.

Just noticed my handbrake light is dimly lit with ignition off. Releasing the handbrake doesn't make it go out. Otherwise the light seems to work as expected with ignition on. Not sure if it's a sign of impending doom? 😊

Wondering if I should send the broken tools back for a refund. The last one was £120. Bit worried they'll say I've caused the damage, but then I expected it to do the job it claims to do 🤔 Biggest annoyance is this driveshaft was definitely taken off by a garage about 7 years ago. I've already decided I don't like that garage, though. For now I've put everything back together and some self amalgamating tape with a cable tie over the split in the CV joint cover. On the plus side I managed to replace the ARB bushes.

Guess an alternative option to using a garage is to source a used hub carrier (with wheel bearing) and driveshaft, and remove the hub and driveshaft from my car together. I think if I take it to a garage, at the least they'd need to replace the outer CV joint. The hub nut didn't go back on easy so I think the bit it screws on to has mushroomed.

The hydraulic hub puller did not work, and I think I may have broken that too. I guess unfortunately the best course of action now is to put everything back together and take it to a garage.

Yes I think the thread ended up knackered.

Sorry, yes definitely removed that. But it's almost like I haven't the resistance it's giving. Other side came straight off with a pin pinch and hammer. The other end of the driveshaft with the 6 bolts removed seems quite firmly stuck too - but I figure I'll turn my attention to that when I get the hub off the driveshaft. I've ordered the Sealey hydraulic puller I linked to above. Hoping that has enough grunt.

This is the one I tried which didn't work... https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GFT5RKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0S0N8SS34Z4SD17GA1MF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I noticed the Clarke one Machine Mart sell has some similar negative reviews on Amazon too, which is why I went with the cheap one.

Is this likely to be worth trying? https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637193693/hydraulic-hub-puller-set

Tried whacking it with a hammer already. I'm thinking the tool I've got is rubbish. Quite a few negative reviews on Amazon, but hoped as it's already been off it might just need some encouragement. I'll start researching hub pullers and try buy a decent one.

Have removed 3 bolts and plate securing bottom ball joint and track rod end. Bought a hub puller tool but it doesn't seem to be doing anything, I think it's either just bending under tension or the thread has become knackered. It's been off before so I expected it to be a doddle. I've tried plusgas which doesn't seem to help. Any tips or recommendations for a good quality hub pulling tool? Thanks.

Anybody looking for bleed nipples for an FS III caliper these are a great price if you have Amazon Prime. There's some rubbish being sold on eBay with the same part number that's best avoided. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003VXPG20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WQFP15DHXQ49NJ8MFXFE

I've had dodgy tyre wear for a good few years that never seems to get sorted when I've had tracking done (inside edges at front), but no knocking noises from ARB and drives fine. I think the shaft collar clamps I linked to above have too large an outer diameter. I've found Febi Bilstein do a replacement anti roll bar that comes with bushes, clamps, bolts, and droplinks that can be had for £65 delivered on eBay. I'm starting to lean towards that option or a used ARB since it's just a lump of metal and the car might not have many years left overall.

I wonder if a split shaft collar like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clamp-Collar-Double-Split-3mm-To-130mm-Shaft-Collar-Clamp-Type-Collars-/302160614643?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 would be an acceptable bodge? Looks like my bar is 18mm so think I'd probably try 17mm hoping that's enough to grip tight. Got to be better than a piece of plastic.

I can't work out by looking at it if it is the one with plastic sleeve or not. Would a metal ridge be in the middle of the bush? There's nothing I can feel behind it.

You mean at the hub end? Both hub nuts have definitely been off at the hub end at some point. Never been off at gearbox end. Or did you mean the bit where the CV joint joins inside the gaiter?

I reckon always check the MOT history online. All you need is the reg number. There could be advisories on there that will eventually need fixing and cost alot, such as worn steering rack. If advisories from a fail all still exist in a later pass/turn into fails, this might suggest corners have been cut in maintenance.

While replacing pads and discs, noticed grease appearing in my wheel arch, looks like outer CV joint cover is split. I figure it makes most sense to remove the whole driveshaft and replace both inner and outer covers at the same time? Looks like to remove driveshaft it's just a case of 6 bolts at gearbox end, and driveshaft retaining nut at wheel hub, 3 bolts holding bottom ball joint, and maybe track rod end to give a bit more movement? This also seems an opportune time to tackle the anti roll bar bushes which were an advisory on last MOT. Mine is a 2002 wIth what I believe to be a 16mm ARB. I've noticed mention some anti roll bars had a plastic insert to prevent lateral movement, and a suggestion that if your car has these you likely need to buy a new anti roll bar. Another suggestion I've seen is to add two stainless steel hose clamps to prevent lateral movement - is this likely to be acceptable? Thanks in advance.