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Unable to separate hub from driveshaft - hub puller not working

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Have removed 3 bolts and plate securing bottom ball joint and track rod end. Bought a hub puller tool but it doesn't seem to be doing anything, I think it's either just bending under tension or the thread has become knackered. It's been off before so I expected it to be a doddle. I've tried plusgas which doesn't seem to help.

 

Any tips or recommendations for a good quality hub pulling tool? Thanks.

I assume you’ve removed the three (I’m sure it’s three!) multi-spline bolts from the back of the hub? Also, have you pulled the drive shaft out of the hub?

.... and has the bottom ball joint been removed from the bottom of the hub?

 

Sorry for all the questions but trying to work out exactly where you are with this!? 

The thread title reveals all!

 

He is trying to push the driveshaft back from the hub, I would advise giving the force screw head the good news with a hammer but its more effective if the balljoints have not been removed, a kettle of hot water might help.

Sorry JR, but it wasn’t clear to exactly where he was in the job. No need to try and make me feel like a dumb a55.

 

I think I’ll leave it to you from here on in :thumbup:

That was not at all my intention, when I read a post the thread title is usually off the top of the screen and I frequently misunderstand because I can not see all the information, a good example is people not putting their vehicle details under their user profile, making a posting requesting info which does not say what year, model or engine their vehicle has, I have often replied asking for confirmation only to later see that it was in the thread title.

 

In this case nobody could really understand the first posting unless they were able to see and read the title at the same time, on my computer you cant, I imagine its even worse on a mobile device.

 

Sorry to have unintentionally upset you.

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46 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The thread title reveals all!

 

He is trying to push the driveshaft back from the hub, I would advise giving the force screw head the good news with a hammer but its more effective if the balljoints have not been removed, a kettle of hot water might help.

Tried whacking it with a hammer already.

 

I'm thinking the tool I've got is rubbish. Quite a few negative reviews on Amazon, but hoped as it's already been off it might just need some encouragement. I'll start researching hub pullers and try buy a decent one.

One of these from Machine Mart worked well on mine....

 

68482-A8-E-B934-4796-9-C90-46-B74-D293-B

It's best if you leave everything assembled. Just remove the driveshaft nut and use the puller to start the driveshaft moving, then you can remove track rod end and bottom ball joint bolts. That way the hub is held solid while you get the driveshaft moving.

Just now, anewman said:

 I noticed the Clarke one Machine Mart sell has some similar negative reviews on Amazon too, which is why I went with the cheap one.

 

Not had a problem myself but maybe I was lucky.

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I've got the same one you have anewman, but it did splay out in use, would be better with some normal bolts that would sit down flat across the slots, where radius seat wheel bolts will only touch at a pair of points either side of the slot and allow the thing to distort under load.  

 

I managed to squeeze it back into the original shape in a big vice, then acquired such bolts for next time (which hasn't happened yet).

 

Are the thread knackered? Doe sit just turn and turn without progressing?

 

@TMB's one looks a better design, and good value.

 

 

 

 

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You don't mention having removed the hub nut? :wondering: :D

 

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4 minutes ago, Wino said:

You don't mention having removed the hub nut? :wondering: :D

 

Sorry, yes definitely removed that. But it's almost like I haven't the resistance it's giving. Other side came straight off with a pin pinch and hammer.

 

The other end of the driveshaft with the 6 bolts removed seems quite firmly stuck too - but I figure I'll turn my attention to that when I get the hub off the driveshaft. 

 

I've ordered the Sealey hydraulic puller I linked to above. Hoping that has enough grunt.

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11 minutes ago, Wino said:

Are the thread knackered? Doe sit just turn and turn without progressing?

Yes I think the thread ended up knackered.

Any puller with a standard angular thread form like that is a toy, it should have a square thread.

 

An exception can be made on a hydraulic puller as long as the thread is a large enough diameter to resist the hydraulic load and the thread is only used for taking up the slack before using the hydraulic tommy bar to create the force.

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The hydraulic hub puller did not work, and I think I may have broken that too.

 

I guess unfortunately the best course of action now is to put everything back together and take it to a garage.

 

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Guess an alternative option to using a garage is to source a used hub carrier (with wheel bearing) and driveshaft, and remove the hub and driveshaft from my car together.

 

I think if I take it to a garage, at the least they'd need to replace the outer CV joint. The hub nut didn't go back on easy so I think the bit it screws on to has mushroomed.

I have had the exact same issue, broke the puller and mushroomed the thread on the CV joint.

 

I ended up taking the hub off with driveshaft attached then took it around to different garages until I found one with a press that could do it, think I gave the bloke £20 for doing it.

 

I filed/ground the end of the CV thread to clean it up and to allow the nut to go back on.

 

Ironically when I had to do the other side one a couple of years later I was expecting a similar fight but it came apart extremely easily :D

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Wondering if I should send the broken tools back for a refund. The last one was £120. Bit worried they'll say I've caused the damage, but then I expected it to do the job it claims to do 🤔

 

Biggest annoyance is this driveshaft was definitely taken off by a garage about 7 years ago. I've already decided I don't like that garage, though.

 

For now I've put everything back together and some self amalgamating tape with a cable tie over the split in the CV joint cover. On the plus side I managed to replace the ARB bushes.

Edited by anewman

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