Suspension and OEM numbers

[Davidmb]

Quick question:

 

Does the Skoda Octavia Elegance estate 2005 MK2 share the same front suspension as Skoda saloons, golf's etc as long as the oem is the same e.g. 

 

VWA 1K0413031BF

 

Or is that too simplified and other numbers come into play? 

 

Edited 19 March by Davidmb
Spelling

[Black vRS Oct]

Yes but they'll have slightly different parts numbers for Skoda/VW/seat etc

[Breezy_Pete]

1K0413031BF is exactly the same part whatever brand you might find it in.

[Davidmb]

9 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

1K0413031BF is exactly the same part whatever brand you might find it in.

 

Thanks for the reply. 

 

I aim to buy a good condition strut with coil (I don't have a hydraulic spring compressor yet... and the hand tightening ones I do, just scare me...) 

 

I guess the only critical difference would be the spring coil itself between different type and weight engines and different weight cars (saloon/estate.) 

 

I think spring coils are colour coded but the broken one is too corroded to see. The right side looks like an aftermarket one. 

 

As its the front I plan to find a front left from a 1.9 diesel (saloon or estate.) I think that should be ok? 

 

Or try to find the actual colour code if possible? I don't have ETKA. 

Or should I hold out for one taken from an estate?

 

 

Edited 21 March by Davidmb
Slight correction

[Carlston]

According to the gknautomotive.com spring catalogue, the Octavia MK2 1.9TDI front wheel drive with standard ride height uses different front springs depending on whether it has a manual or automatic gearbox. The automatic gearbox is heavier than the manual gearbox, so cars with an automatic gearbox tend to use slightly stiffer front springs. To be sure what front springs you've got, it's best to check your car's build codes. Build code L07 means 1K0411105AQ and build code L14 means 1K0411105BD...but it's possible it could be something else.

 

Octavia MK2 1.9TDI, front wheel drive, hatchback/estate, standard ride height, manual gearbox, L07

1K0411105AQ

 

Octavia MK2 1.9TDI, front wheel drive, hatchback/estate, standard ride height, automatic gearbox, L14

1K0411105BD

 

The above assumes you have standard ride height suspension, ie. build code 2UA. However, it's possible you could have build code 2UB, ie. rough-road/increased ride height suspension, or build code 2UC, ie. sports/lowered ride height suspension...as shown in the chart below.

 

VW Codes Decoder

2UA = Standard design
2UB = Rough-road design
2UC = Sports version

https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

 

Edited 21 March by Carlston

[Davidmb]

4 hours ago, Carlston said:

According to the gknautomotive.com spring catalogue, the Octavia MK2 1.9TDI front wheel drive with standard ride height uses different front springs depending on whether it has a manual or automatic gearbox. The automatic gearbox is heavier than the manual gearbox, so cars with an automatic gearbox tend to use slightly stiffer front springs. To be sure what front springs you've got, it's best to check your car's build codes. Build code L07 means 1K0411105AQ and build code L14 means 1K0411105BD...but it's possible it could be something else.

 

Octavia MK2 1.9TDI, front wheel drive, hatchback/estate, standard ride height, manual gearbox, L07

1K0411105AQ

 

Octavia MK2 1.9TDI, front wheel drive, hatchback/estate, standard ride height, automatic gearbox, L14

1K0411105BD

 

The above assumes you have standard ride height suspension, ie. build code 2UA. However, it's possible you could have build code 2UB, ie. rough-road/increased ride height suspension, or build code 2UC, ie. sports/lowered ride height suspension...as shown in the chart below.

 

VW Codes Decoder

2UA = Standard design
2UB = Rough-road design
2UC = Sports version

https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

 

Thanks for this information it is gold. 

 

Luckily the sticker in boot near spare wheel was legible enough to see most codes. 

 

Will make sure I look out for that sticker in the used car market... 

 

My suspension is standard 2UA so I am guessing this is colour code:

 

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0411105aq-suspension-spring-front-axle-sachs-35548.html

 

1x orange, 4x blue or 1x purple, 1x orange, 1x blue.

 

Smartest play seems to find a good-used, OEM equivalent, standard 1.9 TDI Octavia/Passat/Audi A4/MK5 Golf estate front-strut and coil - as I am guessing that the extra weight of an estate will mean a spring coil difference from hatch/saloon models?

 

I know that I should replace both, with new struts and springs, and may well do... but close MOT, and Emissions last year were close. Need to investigate that can of worms first, and keep my eye on eBay as a get out of jail card - As I am now in a 1.2 12V Polo and the power sucks.  

 

Thanks for all your help.  

 

 

Edited 21 March by Davidmb

[Carlston]

33 minutes ago, Davidmb said:

...as I am guessing that the extra weight of an estate will mean a spring coil difference from hatch/saloon models?...

 

The front springs are the same for both the hatchback and estate.

 

It's the rear springs that will be a little stiffer on the estate compared to the hatchback, because most of the extra weight that an estate might carry is over the rear axle.

 

New OE quality KYB 1K0411105AQ front springs are available on ebay for less than £22 each, and less than £28 each for Kilen. The average service life of new OE quality springs will be a lot more than old OE springs.

 

The white build code sticker/label in the spare wheel well area might only have around 40 of the build codes. This is just a small fraction of the 180 or so build codes that the car might have.

 

Edited 21 March by Carlston

[Davidmb]

8 hours ago, Carlston said:

 

The front springs are the same for both the hatchback and estate.

 

It's the rear springs that will be a little stiffer on the estate compared to the hatchback, because most of the extra weight that an estate might carry is over the rear axle.

 

New OE quality KYB 1K0411105AQ front springs are available on ebay for less than £22 each, and less than £28 each for Kilen. The average service life of new OE quality springs will be a lot more than old OE springs.

 

The white build code sticker/label in the spare wheel well area might only have around 40 of the build codes. This is just a small fraction of the 180 or so build codes that the car might have.

 

 

Taking that route I would need a hydraulic spring press x2 front struts and coils  - as don't want imbalanced suspension or to do the job twice (e.g. strut failure). Definitely will buy a hydraulic spring compressor though at some point. 

 

However: 

 

Time x money

170,000 miles on clock 

Undiagnosed Smoke Emissions issue - 

although maybe related to a vibration issue that is maybe vacuum related.... 

No fault codes. 

5 months MOT left. 

Not a PD130 

 

Hence my desire to find a good condition used part. 

 

But yeah if it was a low mileage fabia vrs my approach would be very different. 

 

Re other codes I assume all this info is on ETKA? 

 

 

[Carlston]

My favourite coil spring compressors for MacPherson struts are these Draper ones. Notice that they use a much superior acme thread, with one end of the rod having a left hand thread and the other end having a right hand thread. However, you can get hydraulic floor standing coil spring compressors that would make the job even easier.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185735222016

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/draper-n144-250mm-pair-coil-spring-compressors/

[J.R.]

I have a pair of those that I bought 47 years ago and they are still the best and safest I have come across, some garage ones have tempered pressed steel wrap around parts enabling them to fit in between tighter spaced coils.

 

I have a hydraulic press but have never had the need to use it rather than the compressors, for coil over shock absorbers on Caterhams and Westfields etc I always use my drill press as it is by far the safest and the clamps are too big to fit in between the coils and between the coils and damper tube.

[Davidmb]

11 hours ago, Carlston said:

My favourite coil spring compressors for MacPherson struts are these Draper ones. Notice that they use a much superior acme thread, with one end of the rod having a left hand thread and the other end having a right hand thread. However, you can get hydraulic floor standing coil spring compressors that would make the job even easier.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185735222016

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/draper-n144-250mm-pair-coil-spring-compressors/

 

Got a pair of those but known as widow makers....

 

Seriously bad if they fail. I have heard people use two sets for safety... 

 

I think I would rather use a floor standing hydraulic one. Which I will get. And the input you provided has been most useful. Obviously I need a copy of ETKA. 

 

In the end I got an above average condition strut and coil with 6 months warranty from a 2008 mk5 golf (same OEM and compared weights to octavia saloon) for under £40 delivered.

Edited 23 March by Davidmb

[Davidmb]

7 hours ago, J.R. said:

I have a pair of those that I bought 47 years ago and they are still the best and safest I have come across, some garage ones have tempered pressed steel wrap around parts enabling them to fit in between tighter spaced coils.

 

I have a hydraulic press but have never had the need to use it rather than the compressors, for coil over shock absorbers on Caterhams and Westfields etc I always use my drill press as it is by far the safest and the clamps are too big to fit in between the coils and between the coils and damper tube.

 

You use a drill on them? Rather than use the hydraulic press? 

 

Not sure if I have that much faith in modern metal manufacturing... 

Edited 23 March by Davidmb

[J.R.]

A drill press, the quill mechanism has considerable mechanical advantage and a locking lever, you place the monoshock under the quill (remove the chuck if it does not locate well on the top of the shocker), compress the shock absorber and then lock the quill, restrain the spring with either lockwire or ratchet straps, raise the quill and piston rod, remove the spring C collar and then the spring.

 

The spring alone can then be compressed and locked, the straps/lockwire removed and the spring gradually extended using the quill mechanism.

 

It is by far the safest method of compressing monoshock springs (which are too small for spring clamps) before fitting, safer even than my hydraulic press.

All 3 of my pillar drills are older than I am.

[Davidmb]

27 minutes ago, J.R. said:

A drill press, the quill mechanism has considerable mechanical advantage and a locking lever, you place the monoshock under the quill (remove the chuck if it does not locate well on the top of the shocker), compress the shock absorber and then lock the quill, restrain the spring with either lockwire or ratchet straps, raise the quill and piston rod, remove the spring C collar and then the spring.

 

The spring alone can then be compressed and locked, the straps/lockwire removed and the spring gradually extended using the quill mechanism.

 

It is by far the safest method of compressing monoshock springs (which are too small for spring clamps) before fitting, safer even than my hydraulic press.

All 3 of my pillar drills are older than I am.

 

Have you got a photo or link of this as I am quite interested - as searching for a suspension drill press comes up with a lot of random stuff? 

 

Also I thought you meant using a drill on the Draper spring clamps lol...

Edited 23 March by Davidmb

[Carlston]

7 hours ago, Davidmb said:

Got a pair of those but known as widow makers...

 

You are quite right to be cautious. It's possible for paired coil spring compressors to slip round when compressing the spring, so one moment they are 180 degrees apart and the next moment (almost instantaneous) they are next to each other...which is a very dangerous occurrence.

 

The type of "MacPherson strut coil spring compressors" shown in the photo below would prevent that dangerous kind of slippage. However, I'm sure it's still possible to have a very nasty accident if you don't use them correctly.

 

Macpherson Strut Coil Spring Compressor (under £80 on ebay)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284354587575

 

Edited 23 March by Carlston

[J.R.]

2 hours ago, Davidmb said:

Have you got a photo or link of this as I am quite interested - as searching for a suspension drill press comes up with a lot of random stuff? 

 

For "drill press" read "pillar drill" as maybe that is what you know them as, Meddings and Fobco 12 and 6 speed pillar drills also known as drill presses, the quill is the central drilling shaft and chuck that is moved up and down by pulling the side handles (usually 3 of them) which gives enough mechanical advantage to compress a coil over spring on a 7 type vehicle, motorcycle or single seater very slowly and surely and the ability to lock it compressed.

 

25 minutes ago, Carlston said:

You are quite right to be cautious. It's possible for paired coil spring compressors to slip round when compressing the spring, so one moment they are 180 degrees apart and the next moment (almost instantaneous) they are next to each other...which is a very dangerous occurrence.

 

The decent ones have angled clamp pads to follow the helical form of the road spring but even they can slip if not tightened or untightened progressively as a pair, the cheap ones slip and slide around alarmingly.

 

On all my Skodas there has been very little room to compress the front springs in situ which allows the strut to come out of the steering knuckle without removing the driveshaft, I doubt there would be room for the set you show but I think I will buy some anyway, compressing springs (and releasing) on the car has the advantage that the vehicle weight has already done some of the work for you and the clamps are less likely to slip.

[Davidmb]

4 hours ago, J.R. said:

On all my Skodas there has been very little room to compress the front springs in situ which allows the strut to come out of the steering knuckle without removing the driveshaft

Ironically the hardest part of getting the strut/coil/wheelbearing seperated was the struts top three bolts engine side. Absolute pig, rust meant nuts unwelded and rounded. 

 

The wheel bearing reported as 'slightly noisy' is toast as the internals seperated far too easily. Discs all round definitely a future priority if pass. Drive shaft pivot feels lumpy but not totally gone yet... But tempting to replace. However...

 

North Cornwall's rain and occasional salty air is unforgiving on motors... Need a submarine company to make UK cars lol... 

 

But yeah if it was a more sort-after car, lower miles, etc...I would as a matter of course replace with new struts/coils/driveshafts/discs all around as rust is a killer and why triple labour time... 

 

That's the smartest move for a sort-after older vehicle in a wet climate IMO. For the time-being I will just have to plod on the best I can with worn out machinery... 

 

And I will investigate using a piller drill to compress springs. Thanks. 

 

[J.R.]

2 hours ago, Davidmb said:

Ironically the hardest part of getting the strut/coil/wheelbearing seperated was the struts top three bolts engine side. Absolute pig, rust meant nuts unwelded and rounded. 

 

Yes they are an absolute pig when the captive nut turns, now I know I very gently work them back and forth a couple of degrees at a time, you can soon feel if one is likely to let go but if that is the case there aint a lot you can do about it other than keep lubricating and being even gentler, I have found that an underpowered battery impact screwdriver like a 1/4" hex drive one, worked back and forth can free fixings if you have already got them to move a couple of degrees.

[J.R.]

2 hours ago, Davidmb said:

Need a submarine company to make UK cars lol... 

 

Go to Colombia, the back street garages there make transatlantic submarines!!!

[OJOctavia]

I need to replace the shocks in my 05 1.6mpi are the same codes relevant to a petrol as the diesel model?

 

What was the original beand does anyone know?

Edited 30 March by OJOctavia

[Carlston]

3 hours ago, OJOctavia said:

I need to replace the shocks in my 05 1.6mpi are the same codes relevant to a petrol as the diesel model?

 

What was the original brand does anyone know?

 

I suggest you find out the OEM part numbers for the original shock absorbers. This makes it easier to find suitable aftermarket replacements.

 

For the Octavia MK2 with standard ride height, ie. not lowered or increased ride height, here are the front shock absorbers listed in the Skoda parts catalogue. There isn't just one front shock absorber for petrol cars because what front shock absorbers are originally fitted depends on what front springs are used...and what front springs are used depends on the weight of the engine and gearbox.

 

However, the aftermarket shock absorber market will usually sell just one shock absorber to cover a huge range of OEM part numbers...as shown in the example below.

 

Front shock absorbers for the Octavia MK2 with standard ride height

 

KYB 334834 front shock absorbers (50mm strut) are being sold to replace the following four OEM part numbers and many others

1K0413031AD

1K0413031BE

1K0413031BF

1K0413031BG

 

KYB 335808 front shock absorbers (55mm strut) are being sold to replace the following five OEM part numbers and many others

1T0413031DL

1T0413031FM

1T0413031HM

1T0413031HN

1T0413031HP

 

Edited 30 March by Carlston

[Davidmb]

23 hours ago, Carlston said:

 

I suggest you find out the OEM part numbers for the original shock absorbers. This makes it easier to find suitable aftermarket replacements.

 

For the Octavia MK2 with standard ride height, ie. not lowered or increased ride height, here are the front shock absorbers listed in the Skoda parts catalogue. There isn't just one front shock absorber for petrol cars because what front shock absorbers are originally fitted depends on what front springs are used...and what front springs are used depends on the weight of the engine and gearbox.

 

However, the aftermarket shock absorber market will usually sell just one shock absorber to cover a huge range of OEM part numbers...as shown in the example below.

 

Front shock absorbers for the Octavia MK2 with standard ride height

 

KYB 334834 front shock absorbers (50mm strut) are being sold to replace the following four OEM part numbers and many others

1K0413031AD

1K0413031BE

1K0413031BF

1K0413031BG

 

KYB 335808 front shock absorbers (55mm strut) are being sold to replace the following five OEM part numbers and many others

1T0413031DL

1T0413031FM

1T0413031HM

1T0413031HN

1T0413031HP

 

Thanks for taking the time to list this. 

 

Smartest move I made for a myriad of parts questions was a 24hr subscription to partslink24. Should be week for the cost though...However, saved me a lot of money and time. And other people's time when plenty of real mechanical problems to solve abound.