loony

Thats awesome, thanks for replying

If you still have problems, in the past I have had to replace power steering hydro/electric pumps that cause the battery to discharge over night. Iv'e been lucky that on the 2 occasions this has happened I got good replacements from breakers yards. If you have a power steering leak from a corroded pipe you will see the fluid level is quite a bit lower than it should be but may not see an obvious leak. There's also no harm in swapping a 4+? year old battery for a new decent one anyway. This one sounds like it had a hard time.

Sussed out the problem. the rear tail lights are known as "parking lights" and there a 4 W5W bulbs. I was looking at the larger reverse light bulb P21w thinking it was the tails lights, doh. Page 187 and 188 in the owners book http://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Roomster_5J/11-2011/Manual/Roomster/A05_Roomster_OwnersManual.pdf

most likely condenser if you are lucky for the Aircon, if the clutch is working on the compressor. Avoid kwik fit and a like like the plague, try and get a recomended local good guy do a sniff test, sometimes helpful dealers will tell you who they use for issues. worth getting fixed as the compressor can seize and throw belts off if left for a long time. My brothers Fabia had major issues because they actually designed the front door loom too short, obviously it broke. I think there is so much cheap chinese wire about a lot of manufacturers are suffering, ive seen this on 17 plate audi's.

I had broken wires between the door and the chassis on mine. (remove the rubber gaiter) I replaced a window motor as well, I got mine from a local breaker. It fixed my problem which was the car wouldn't lock and set the alarm so it kept triggering randomly. There is a reset that can be done if you get it to work. lower the front windows completely and raise them with the keyfob. I also had problem with windows jerking and not shutting properly because the battery was knackered.

Replacing the heating resistor? was this because you had very little control over the temperature the heater was blowing out? Like 3 clicks and it was blasting full sahara desert? if it was I have this issue, could you post a prt number for the part that fixed it?

You can remove the tailgate trim panels easily, just pop out the clips (20 or so) with needle nose pliers. After that you can remove the gaiter(use a blunt flatblade or plastic trim tools) that is between the tailgate and the chassis (top left) to look for wire breaks. To remove the gaiter, you might have to use a bit of brute force and maybe some wd40, it shouldnt be very difficult to remove but might have gone a bit hard from old age. Thats where mine were. where the wiring moves around during opening and shutting. They were pretty obvious but sometimes the copper can break inside the plastic if you aren't getting anywhere. They can be connected one moment and then for no apparent reason not work, some kind of quantum physics going on maybe, it has baffled me in the past Being CanBus Voltages don't always make sense. Assume Nothing with electrical problems.

if not a fuse or fuse keeps blowing, could be motor died (sometimes the park position sensors wear out) likely a broken wire somewhere. had several break on my 2008. Drivers side door and tailgate.

I think you best bet is to try another battery. although they are saying its fine it needs to be ruled out. Volts and Amps load test. I was getting strange things happen like the trip resetting and electric windows hunting for position although it would start ok. And then My battery died recently, i could leave the car for a couple of days and then it would be flat. we tested to see if anything was drawing power and it wasnt so fitted a new battery from my local trusted group and havent had a problem since. now have left it for a couple of weeks and no problem.

I just put everything away for the ight and noticed that the right rear parking lights are now not working. still got indicators.

Firstly I cant seem to find a fuse for these lights after looking at haynes manual and online fuse layouts and posts on here. Bulbs are good, doesn't seem to be power at the lights. Rear Fog, reverse, brake, indicators and numberplate lights all work. 1 of the parking lights is out the other 3 are working. The Rear parking sensors are not functioning. All front lights working, horn works, interior lights work. I recently fitted a aftermarket JVC radio and tapped into live wires. Only had the dash apart. A year or more ago i found broken wires in the tailgte loom and fixed. Had a problem with car not locking and alarm going off, which turned out to be the drivers side electric window motor.

Similar problem. My girlfriend tried to shut a towel in the passengers side window but didn't know about the safe opening so tried several times. Both front windows open on the drivers switch but the passengers side will not open window. Had a check round fuses interior and under bonnet. All good. Tried the key reset in door. Is there a fuse inside the door panel? I am away from my tools for another week or so . I have a multimeter here. Hoping its and easy fix???

Thanks wino. Exactly the answer i needed.

Wtf are you lot babbling on about? The question was clear. If you don't know the answer then spam somewhere else please.

Just fitted new 205 55 16s all round on my rooms, original was 205 45 16 which were too racey for me. speedo is now exactly the same as the GPS indicated speed but i guess this will throw out the trip and odo etc. I have access to VAG com, is there a setting i can adjust?