Vijay2018

Hopefully I'll get a chance to get the last seized plug out then I'll check the compression. Appreciate all the help guys

I want to do a compression test but (some glowplugs were stuck so I've been oiling them). I've wondered if the piston rings are an issue, possible ring gumming as the car runs on veg/biodiesel

As soon as my mate can run a scan, I'll post up the result. Last time he looked, it didn't come up with an error but he also couldn't locate any specific scan blocks for the oil level sensor on vcds

I didn't realize it worked by heat, just assumed it was a level sensor. Can't get my head around it working by heat though??

What do you mean by segments?

I manually check the dipstick before every drive. It's a pain through cos I'm using 1l of oil every couple of hundred miles. No I haven't met up with my mate to scan it yet, going this week sometime Do you mean on vcds?

When I turn on the ignition, the oil light comes on with the other warning lights, then goes off after a second or so

Yes it does have a dipstick, but I have a bad oil usage issue, so I really need to reply on the low oil warning circuit Because my oil gets very low and the low warning light doesn't come on

Still not sorted. I replaced it with a Lucas part and it still doesn't work. My mate is gonna plug it back in lto vcds

Hi guys, Mine seems to have stopped working and I wondered if anyone knows if they can be tested though VCDS or with a multimeter? My mate plugged in his VCDS but it didn't come up with anything on the general scan and he couldn't find the sensor on any options. Cheers Vijay

got a little further on the weekend after stripping off door cards. Found a few broken wires (through the door pillars) but narrowed it down to the interior lighting or sunroof circuits. Bit more work on it when I get time................

thanks anyway Pete

Hi Pete, 2004

bump........................

Hi all, My central locking remote stopped working last Friday, which in turn turned out to be a central locking problem on the car. I also had the door open light on the dash and then noticed the power windows weren't working. I checked the fuses and fuse 14 had blown. I went to replace it, but it just blew straight away. Randomly I was getting a message that the boot was open too. When I locked the drivers door with the key, all the other doors would lock and then unlock again. I have to manually lock all the doors at the moment. My mate ran a scan but it couldn't communicate to the relevant controllers (made sense as there's no power if the fuse can't be replaced). We disconnected the boot wiring from under the panel but the fuse still blew. We then disconnected both back door wiring at the connectors but the fuse still blew. I've done a search and found a post where someone suggested the central convenience controller. Is that my best bet to check and where exactly is it on a 1u5 estate as someone said passenger footwell but I think the Haynes manual said it was under the drivers side dash???? What's the large electronic box in the drivers side door, could that be anything to do with it? Thanks for any help Vijay

ordered the Ebay one to try and hope..............................

sadly centralpanels will no longer be selling the drivers side regluators. Do you think the Ebay one I posted a link to is any good?

Brilliant, thank you

Hi, Wondering if anyone has any luck with Ebay front drivers window regulators? I've had the third one go in about 2 years and a little fed up with it as they seem to go just as I'm leaving the house lol. I don't use the windows that much (mostly aircon) and this one has lasted 6 month. I did a search on here and found this one which claims to be heavy duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160995217459?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_7559wt_1398 Cheers Vijay

No idea if it's silicone or how long it takes to dry. I can't think why you wouldn't want to get it on and bolted up once you have the sealant applied anyway. I tool longer than 5 minutes to get it on and bolts tightened and it's fine

I had to take mine off 2 weeks ago and when putting it back, I used Wynns black gasket maker - nice stuff to use. Haynes manual said inside of the bolts which made sense to me or surely the oil would leak out of the bolt holes? Torque settings in the Hyanes manual were 45nm for the 3 large bolts and 15nm for all the smaller bolts

Have you looked on Youtube, that's how I did mine

if molegrips don't work, drill a hold in the middle and use a screw extractor. A nut extractor might work too as it tightens as it turns

Hi, Has anyone got any pointers/thoughts on what I can check for my crazy oil consumption? It got dramatically worse this week, using 330ml (lucozade bottle) per 60 miles :O I cannot see any leaks under the car and I would imagine it would be a blue plume in my rear screen if it was being burnt. I'm going to jetwash the engine this weekend if I get the chance and keep an eye on and under the engine bay. I may also try this stuff as I need to find out where the oil is going https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD4 Is there anywhere else it could go apart from a exterior leak or being burnt out of the exhaust? Cheers Vijay

I know it can be adjusted with the VCDS software as my mate did mine