Vijay2018

it does but it still makes the noise when there's stuff on that false floor and the second/boot floor

coming from the back end mate ;)

Hi all, Searched high and low to find a knocking noise I have going over bumps. Tightened up the boot bumps and latch. Checked shocks and springs, exhaust, removed everything out of the boot but still it persists when ever I go over a bump/pothole. I jacked the car up thinking maybe the wheel bearings and all I found with them is it feels like very slight rotational play (nothing at 6 & 12 or 3 & 9 movement and no noises when spinning the wheel). It's got this slight rotational play on both sides and I wonder if this is normal and the possible knocking noise???? Cheers Vijay

yeah I think yours can only run a certain % of bio

the non PD engine is well known for being able to run bio and veg ;)

Finally got the glow plugs out today. Been spraying WD for weeks. I took my time going back and forth and with each nervous turn, the 2 seized ones finally came out. Both were dead. So I did a compression test and got the following 460, 380, 390 and 400. The 2 dead glow plugs came out of 2 and 4 (380 and 400). I didn't do a wet compression test with oil as I read it could severely damage an diesel engine

Not sure at all but will deffo have a look at it. I would say it's the way I've had to drive more recently as got caught slightly over the speed limit. I just don't have time to pull the turbo again so really looking for options on car if possible :(

I posted on the FB page and got some very useful information which may help someone else too: Beyond cleaners, there are several practices and checks that can significantly combat sticky turbo vanes: * "Italian Tune-Up" (Regular spirited driving): This is one of the most effective non-chemical methods. Regularly driving your vehicle at higher RPMs (e.g., on a highway, safely and legally) helps to increase exhaust gas temperatures. This elevated temperature can burn off soot and carbon deposits before they have a chance to accumulate and harden on the VGT vanes. Avoid prolonged periods of only short, low-speed trips. * Quality Fuel: Using good quality diesel fuel from reputable stations can help reduce the amount of contaminants and improve combustion efficiency, leading to less soot. * Regular Oil Changes with the Correct Oil: Engine oil quality and timely changes are critical. Using the manufacturer-recommended low-ash engine oil (often C3 or C4 specification for modern diesels) helps reduce the ash content that can contribute to deposits. Contaminated or old oil can also contribute to soot. * Check for Exhaust Leaks: Any leaks in the exhaust system before the turbo can reduce the exhaust gas velocity and temperature reaching the turbo, making it more prone to soot buildup. * Inspect Boost Control Solenoids/Actuators: While you suspect sticky vanes, sometimes the electronic or vacuum actuator that controls the VGT vanes can be faulty. A malfunctioning actuator won't move the vanes correctly, even if they're not sticky. Have this checked if the problem persists after cleaning. * EGR Valve Health: A faulty or heavily carbonized Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve can lead to incomplete combustion and increased soot production, which then gets routed back into the intake and eventually to the turbo. Keeping your EGR valve clean and functioning properly is important. * Air Filter Maintenance: A clogged air filter can restrict airflow, leading to incomplete combustion and more soot. Ensure your air filter is replaced according to the manufacturer's schedule. * Professional Turbo Cleaning/Inspection: If "Mr. Muscle" doesn't fully resolve it, or if you're uncomfortable with the DIY approach, a professional turbo cleaning or even removal and manual cleaning of the turbo housing might be necessary. Some specialists can also assess the turbo's overall health. Given your past experience with a blown turbo, being proactive is definitely the smart move. Starting with some of the preventative measures and the "Italian Tune-Up" is a good first step. If the P0234 code returns, then it's time to consider the "Mr. Muscle" treatment or professional intervention. Good luck!

Morning all, Got the old p0234 code on Friday with no power/boost. Ignition off and on sorted it then reset the code and all has been fine. I'm guessing it's sticky vains and Mr Muscle time? With my own stupidity I ignored it last time and ended up with a blown turbo and being recovered. What I was wondering is are there any cleaners out there that can be used to stop this happening before the vains stick? What else can be done to combat this? Cheers Vijay

Hopefully I'll get a chance to get the last seized plug out then I'll check the compression. Appreciate all the help guys

I want to do a compression test but (some glowplugs were stuck so I've been oiling them). I've wondered if the piston rings are an issue, possible ring gumming as the car runs on veg/biodiesel

As soon as my mate can run a scan, I'll post up the result. Last time he looked, it didn't come up with an error but he also couldn't locate any specific scan blocks for the oil level sensor on vcds

I didn't realize it worked by heat, just assumed it was a level sensor. Can't get my head around it working by heat though??

What do you mean by segments?

I manually check the dipstick before every drive. It's a pain through cos I'm using 1l of oil every couple of hundred miles. No I haven't met up with my mate to scan it yet, going this week sometime Do you mean on vcds?

When I turn on the ignition, the oil light comes on with the other warning lights, then goes off after a second or so

Yes it does have a dipstick, but I have a bad oil usage issue, so I really need to reply on the low oil warning circuit Because my oil gets very low and the low warning light doesn't come on

Still not sorted. I replaced it with a Lucas part and it still doesn't work. My mate is gonna plug it back in lto vcds

Hi guys, Mine seems to have stopped working and I wondered if anyone knows if they can be tested though VCDS or with a multimeter? My mate plugged in his VCDS but it didn't come up with anything on the general scan and he couldn't find the sensor on any options. Cheers Vijay

got a little further on the weekend after stripping off door cards. Found a few broken wires (through the door pillars) but narrowed it down to the interior lighting or sunroof circuits. Bit more work on it when I get time................

thanks anyway Pete

Hi Pete, 2004

bump........................

Hi all, My central locking remote stopped working last Friday, which in turn turned out to be a central locking problem on the car. I also had the door open light on the dash and then noticed the power windows weren't working. I checked the fuses and fuse 14 had blown. I went to replace it, but it just blew straight away. Randomly I was getting a message that the boot was open too. When I locked the drivers door with the key, all the other doors would lock and then unlock again. I have to manually lock all the doors at the moment. My mate ran a scan but it couldn't communicate to the relevant controllers (made sense as there's no power if the fuse can't be replaced). We disconnected the boot wiring from under the panel but the fuse still blew. We then disconnected both back door wiring at the connectors but the fuse still blew. I've done a search and found a post where someone suggested the central convenience controller. Is that my best bet to check and where exactly is it on a 1u5 estate as someone said passenger footwell but I think the Haynes manual said it was under the drivers side dash???? What's the large electronic box in the drivers side door, could that be anything to do with it? Thanks for any help Vijay

ordered the Ebay one to try and hope..............................