Vijay2018

should there be any play in the top shock mount? Mine does seem very loose, where the internal rubber of the top mount is spinning

It could welll be that, it has always sounded like it was higher up in the boot

Would I be able to feel movement in them from the arch by trying to move tt by hand? Bought the lower bushes to do on Wednesday

tried it multiple times over days before I removed the cover and checked the voltage :(

That's a good point. I'm not exactly how it works, cos it's a 2 way solenoid, so flips the 12v and earth to open/close the solenoid. Hoping to get a chance to look at it tomorrow

I'll start with the main bushes then and hope it's nothing to do with the ARB ones lol Just would have been good to do the lot while I'm under there

Ah sorry, my bad. Are the anti roll bar bushes something that can easily be changed?

Got under the car and you guys were right, axle beam on the drivers side seems shot. Gonna order these https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/31722 and this kit to make the job easier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387135503753 With regards to the ARB bushes, where are these located as I could not see them at all. Anyone got a diagram on an estate car? Cheers Vijay

These (which ever ones for mine) https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/104528?make=%C5%A0koda&model=Octavia+I+Combi+1996+-+2010&vehicle=1.9+TDI+-+81+kW+%2F+110+hp or https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/181917?make=%C5%A0koda&model=Octavia+I+Combi+1996+-+2010&vehicle=1.9+TDI+-+81+kW+%2F+110+hp

Another issue to sort out (one of many lol). The boot on my estate stopped opening with the central locking. I can open it with the key no problem and that activates the other doors. The solenoid is working with 12v but I am only getting 3v odd at the wiring. Could this be a break in the wire or something more sinister? Cheers Vijay

from what I can find, there is only a bush for the axle beam and another on the ARB

found this great post and write up https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/168542-rear-beam-bushes-need-replacing/ and the write up https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/215352-how-to-changing-mk1-octy-rear-beam-bushes/

what am I looking at, 2 bushes a side? How bad of a job is it?

do you mean there's no access to the subframe/torsion beam bushes?

it could be the rear subframe bushes? I never checked wishbones/trailing arms - here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goHaeN8XbAw

I'll look again cos I didn't see the anti roll bar. Stupid question but is there still one on the 1u5 estate?

it does but it still makes the noise when there's stuff on that false floor and the second/boot floor

coming from the back end mate ;)

Hi all, Searched high and low to find a knocking noise I have going over bumps. Tightened up the boot bumps and latch. Checked shocks and springs, exhaust, removed everything out of the boot but still it persists when ever I go over a bump/pothole. I jacked the car up thinking maybe the wheel bearings and all I found with them is it feels like very slight rotational play (nothing at 6 & 12 or 3 & 9 movement and no noises when spinning the wheel). It's got this slight rotational play on both sides and I wonder if this is normal and the possible knocking noise???? Cheers Vijay

yeah I think yours can only run a certain % of bio

the non PD engine is well known for being able to run bio and veg ;)

Finally got the glow plugs out today. Been spraying WD for weeks. I took my time going back and forth and with each nervous turn, the 2 seized ones finally came out. Both were dead. So I did a compression test and got the following 460, 380, 390 and 400. The 2 dead glow plugs came out of 2 and 4 (380 and 400). I didn't do a wet compression test with oil as I read it could severely damage an diesel engine

Not sure at all but will deffo have a look at it. I would say it's the way I've had to drive more recently as got caught slightly over the speed limit. I just don't have time to pull the turbo again so really looking for options on car if possible :(

I posted on the FB page and got some very useful information which may help someone else too: Beyond cleaners, there are several practices and checks that can significantly combat sticky turbo vanes: * "Italian Tune-Up" (Regular spirited driving): This is one of the most effective non-chemical methods. Regularly driving your vehicle at higher RPMs (e.g., on a highway, safely and legally) helps to increase exhaust gas temperatures. This elevated temperature can burn off soot and carbon deposits before they have a chance to accumulate and harden on the VGT vanes. Avoid prolonged periods of only short, low-speed trips. * Quality Fuel: Using good quality diesel fuel from reputable stations can help reduce the amount of contaminants and improve combustion efficiency, leading to less soot. * Regular Oil Changes with the Correct Oil: Engine oil quality and timely changes are critical. Using the manufacturer-recommended low-ash engine oil (often C3 or C4 specification for modern diesels) helps reduce the ash content that can contribute to deposits. Contaminated or old oil can also contribute to soot. * Check for Exhaust Leaks: Any leaks in the exhaust system before the turbo can reduce the exhaust gas velocity and temperature reaching the turbo, making it more prone to soot buildup. * Inspect Boost Control Solenoids/Actuators: While you suspect sticky vanes, sometimes the electronic or vacuum actuator that controls the VGT vanes can be faulty. A malfunctioning actuator won't move the vanes correctly, even if they're not sticky. Have this checked if the problem persists after cleaning. * EGR Valve Health: A faulty or heavily carbonized Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve can lead to incomplete combustion and increased soot production, which then gets routed back into the intake and eventually to the turbo. Keeping your EGR valve clean and functioning properly is important. * Air Filter Maintenance: A clogged air filter can restrict airflow, leading to incomplete combustion and more soot. Ensure your air filter is replaced according to the manufacturer's schedule. * Professional Turbo Cleaning/Inspection: If "Mr. Muscle" doesn't fully resolve it, or if you're uncomfortable with the DIY approach, a professional turbo cleaning or even removal and manual cleaning of the turbo housing might be necessary. Some specialists can also assess the turbo's overall health. Given your past experience with a blown turbo, being proactive is definitely the smart move. Starting with some of the preventative measures and the "Italian Tune-Up" is a good first step. If the P0234 code returns, then it's time to consider the "Mr. Muscle" treatment or professional intervention. Good luck!

Morning all, Got the old p0234 code on Friday with no power/boost. Ignition off and on sorted it then reset the code and all has been fine. I'm guessing it's sticky vains and Mr Muscle time? With my own stupidity I ignored it last time and ended up with a blown turbo and being recovered. What I was wondering is are there any cleaners out there that can be used to stop this happening before the vains stick? What else can be done to combat this? Cheers Vijay