SkodaNor

I am able to negotiate widths and had a car without a single sensors for 15 years, but that doesn't mean I won't get help from sensors. Kids running around suddenly somehwere I'm not watching. If you don't need any electronic assistance, that's fine, but that doesn't mean we're all as good as you. It's not so much to avoid running into other cars and buildings as it is avoiding people, animals or something else moving. If anything, I'm happy that people in other cars get more sensors since I have no control over what they are doing in the car. If having the sensors prevents a single accident during the car's lifetime, it's worth all the beeping. I trust the sensors more than every driver out there, even if they have a perfect track record. Every year, cars get more electronics to make the roads safer, and I believe that to be a good thing, even if we have to listen to some beeping. I don't think the manufacturers and regulators add more safety systems for fun. Park Assist is another story, and if people want such a feature, that's not a problem for you is it?

Does it take that long to detach a trailer to charge that people stop touring with them because of it? I’d be more worried about getting around and finding chargers where you need them than chargers suited for caravans.

TMY does a lot of this right, but overall I'd prefer something else. It primarily has to do with driving comfort and noise levels. Sure, Tesla has a much better app, charging network and a lot of things, but ultimately what I focus on is the driving experience. That's what a car is about and 99.9% of the time I have something to do with my car, I am driving it. The time spent on the app or charging stations are very small compared to time spent on the road. So it only makes sense for me to prioritize the properties of a car in that situation. I don't mind waiting for the car I want rather than buy something I'd not prefer due to delivery times. And with a contract from Janaury 21, the car becomes cheaper every six months that I don't get it since the original prices apply. I was also hesitant to buy the first edition of a new model, and the first EV from Skoda at that, as I expected there to be some things to fix in the first iterations. Now there's the 02/22 update which makes some positive changes, and by not having a car yet I was also able to add the park assistant. This is very individual of course and those who actually need a new car within a timeframe because of leasing ending or something else, I can absolutely understand them choosing a car they can get within a few months.

It sometimes feels like some cars were designed and engineered without considering the fact that they will be used in snow. On my Kodiaq I occasionally get this warning on some sensors, but after three years it's quite rare. It's annoying enough that it puts systems out of use, but the binging and bonging insufferable.

I ordered the Enyaq before PLA was available, so the order (no build date yet) has front and rear sensors. Now that PLA has become available, it’s an option I can add, which includes more sensors. Do these two images from the Enyaq and Kodiaq user manuals demonstrate the difference with and without PLA? The first is from the Enyaq manual where the sensors cover front and rear. The last from the Kodiq manual, where sensors also cover the sides.

I’ve got Park Assist and Area View on my Kodiaq. Never used the automated parking feature, but I very much enjoy the sensors beeping when I get close to something on the sides, like in narrow parking houses. It’s a big and bulky car. I never really thought about this not being in one of the packs they’ve offered with the Enyaq all along, but now that they have introduced Park Assist, I started to wonder. Do you need Park Assist for the car to have sensors on the sides that beep when you get close to stuff? If so, I may have to add that to my order.

The Skoda app is rubbish and they should be ashamed of what they offer. They’ve been making great cars for years, but they can’t be putting a lot of money into the app. This has become particularly noticeable after Tesla and other brands has revolutionized car apps. They have had the Skoda app for years, seemingly without much will to improve it. There are millions of apps and people able to make great apps that work. It shouldn’t be this difficult. I can only hope enough people complain or don’t even buy a Skoda because of it, to give them more reasons to fix it.

The EV6 does struggle a bit more with fast charging when it’s cold. It would have helped a lot if it could pre-heat the batteries.

Most that experience hard braking with an Enya is because of the speed sign recognition. When they turn it off, that behavior stops. You can still experience it if the car thinks there is a danger for collision. This has been a thing since before Enyaq, and from what I’ve read mostly happens in sharp turns with traffic in the opposite direction, which the car thinks you’re about to crash into. That is however a far less common issue that the speed sign issue. In my time with the Kodiaq I have never experienced it.

I took over the contract of an iV80 that was ordered in November. It originally had CF which delayed production. The dealer removed CF at some point and before I made changes it had an estimated production week of 42. I changed the entire car and added extras which the dealer said could delay it. I suppose adding extras which involve electronics can increase the number of chips it has. Hopefully it will have some priority since it was ordered ten months ago, but I don’t expect it in 2021. Not that a production week says it all either. Some has had their cars completed, but sat in banking due to missing chips for two months. Time to be patient. Luckily I’m not in a rush and got the Kodiaq until I get it. The Kodiaq won’t increase in value, but the Enyaq will also live equally longer.

I’ve finally decided on an iV80, but not yet chosen the interior. We will be using two car child seats for many years (with seat protection). Price difference is not something I’ll consider. The only I have excluded so far is Eco Suite and perhaps Loft since it can delay delivery (and my GF thought it looked cheap). I’ll try to demo as many of them as I can find. What is your experience so far with the different interiors? Feel, quality, comfort, heat, cold, cleaning, dash material etc.

They should have had an option for «Crystal Butt» and given the rear some LEDs for backing up.

Strange that you can’t build an 80X in the UK. In Norway we can get most variants so far, except Founders. 80 and 80X in normal or Sportline. Maybe they haven’t considered the UK AWD market as large enough to warrant the 80X inclusion yet. As for the salesmen, many seem to be woefully uninformed. If that’s a personal issue, dealership issue or Skoda issue I don’t know, but there are certainly a lot of different answers given by Skoda salesmen.

When I was buying my Kodiaq, I spent a long time considering DCC. Read a lot online and tried it a few times. Only after the last test drive I decided to get it. I would rather regret buying it than not. After 2.5 years, it is one of the extras I have used the most. It was after driving several hours on various roads I really found the love for it. Which roads you typically drive on will matter a lot. Here in Norway I drive on bumpy roads, gravel, highways and everything in between. If I only used it on highways or structurally sound roads, I might not need it as much, but I even like putting it in Comfort on highways since it softens the ride and lowers the noise a little. At 110 km/h the curves are so wide that it doesn’t make the ride too boaty. We have a lot of country roads with decent asphalt and lots of curves, where the Sport setting is frequently used. With a two year old sitting backwards and suffering from motion sickness, it means I don’t have to drive at 40 km/h all the time. The Enyaq has even more adjustment since you can choose across a range rather than between three pre-determined points. When I read that the Enyaq feels stiffer, which I also thought on my test drive, I was even more determined to get DCC. Not to make it sporty, but to make it softer. The tire pressure tip is a good one I will try to remember. As a little anecdote, I once rented a 19 m^3 truck for moving. I don’t remember the exact numbers, but IIRC, the tyre pressure on two tires were below half of what they should have had. Can’t trust people.

I might order an iV80X next week and dealer here in Norway says to not expect it until Q2 2022.

Reviews have reported the Enyaq as quite stiff. I have DCC on my Kodiaq, love it, and will get it on an Enyaq if I buy one.

I haven’t ordered one myself, but on a Norwegian Enyaq Facebook page, this question has been asked. At least 8 people in that topic has replied that their cars are on the way and some of them confirms that the car was delayed due to missing chips and was sent back to the factory to have them installed. Google Translate might help. https://m.facebook.com/groups/140265663428845/#!/groups/140265663428845/permalink/981723695949700/

Thanks. The start/stop function has been working, and I have never had issues starting the car, but a battery voltage with no load at 12.1 V seems quite low. Would be interesting if I took a long drive before it was charged to see what it got charged to. I know that to do a proper capacity test you need a load (I’m an electrician), but it’s not so much the current health of the battery that I wondered about. It was more about what to expect from the charging it gets from the car and if a top-up now and then is advisable, even if driving pattern and temperature would suggest it wasn’t necessary. With the recent weather and use of the car, I can understand the need for a top-up. I had a charger that I used on my old car a few times, but not sure if it’s still around. I don’t have easy access to a socket to charge from (3rd floor in an apartment block), so I figured it was just as easy to let them charge when I delivered it for a wash. I might get a charger, at least if we buy a house. I haven’t been able to find the battery SoC or voltage in the menus. I got the digital instrument panel (really happy I added it). Love the webasto. Especially since we can’t use a Defa or something similar. I don’t mind a cold car that much, the seat and steering wheel heating is quite effective, but it’s great for hauling kids that they don’t need thick jackets or layers of clothes that compromise safety. The best is getting an ice free car in winter. I also got the heated windshield, so it doesn’t take too long to de-ice from a frozen state, but a pre-heated, ice free car is great.

I wanted to ask about this and might as well do it here. I got an MY19 Kodiaq, AGM 68Ah battery. Earlier in winter I got a warning that the battery voltage was low, which wasn’t too surprising with-10C, short trips and use of Webasto. I recently had a two year service and was told the battery was quite low. I measured it to 12.1V myself and after letting the service centre charge it, it’s now 12.5V. This period had also been cold (-10 to -15) and 2-3 webasto runs, but usually trips around 20-30 minutes each way. I disable start/stop when driving, but the trips often contain a few stops. What the service centre told me was that I should charge the battery 3-6 times a year, even during summer because the dynamo didn’t charge the batteries completely. Not just to avoid the battery from getting too low from cold, short trips and webasto use, but because when going on longer trips, the car doesn’t charge the battery enough. I was somewhat surprised by this. A car that can’t maintain its own battery sounds strange. I’ve read a bit in here about micro hybrid, the start/stop system and recovery charge, and from what I understood, maybe it doesn’t want to get the SoC to 100% without a charger. I also read a few places that the battery health might be better with SoC regularly in the 80-90% range. I don’t mind charging now and then during winter and get the point, but is it really necessary during summer or times when you only drive longer regular trips? When I measure with my meter, is that sufficient information to decide if I should put on some maintenance charge? Let’s say I check it every now and then and one day see that it is 12.3V, without any longer trips planned.

Thanks. Should the hood have a certain temperature before doing anything? It's winter and the car is parked outside with temperatures around -5-5°C

Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look around for suitable tools for the job here in Norway. It's part of the game and it certainly will happen again, so I was hoping I could do some minor repair to seal it and at least make it look a bit better.

I found a chip damage on the hood of my Kodiaq. Asked a few shops and they don't want to do smart repair, so I got offers on re-painting the entire hood, which will be expensive. I don't know when it happened, but I'm suspecting a trip on the highway in December. Ironically a trip to pick up the car after having one of the doors re-painted. Can you tell from the photos (not the best ones) if this is a damage that will get worse and start to rust? It's very small and I could possibly live with it and do the entire hood at a later time if more damage occurs, maybe add some drops of bottle paint, but I really don't want rust to start spreading down there. If that's a risk, I might just order the re-painting and close my eyes when paying. Especially the largest hole looks a bit deep.

Yep! Picked it up March 1st. Very happy with it so far.

My car is produced and was shipped from the factory yesterday! I've ordered tectyl treatment of the underside and coat treatment, so it will take a bit more time after it's arrived, but things are finally happening!

Very good! Now we just wait for the cars.