wesacosa

very probably

the bottom sits out by a few mm when pushed as far as the location tab allows. I am away at the moment but when back I will perhaps try the old one again back to back and see how different they are. Plus I will do the Vernier measurements which I didn't yet do

I will get the Vernier on it tomorrow as it wasn't to hand today. however if there is a difference between the two I would say its less than 1mm but will see tomorrow... I wouldn't say they dropped in but they wiggled in by hand with small resistance. they certainly didn't need persuading in with a mallet

I just measured old versus new. circumference of the main body is the same, although it seems perhaps there is a slightly more pronounced step down on the bit which goes into the knuckle on the new ones, but its hard to tell for sure as the old ones have corrosion. Looking on the part catalogue there are loads of different knuckles and can't get the Skoda parts site to recognise my chassis number so not really sure how I am going to ensure the correct ones. Made worse by fact mine is a 94 car where the changeover of a lot of parts were

Hmm. It wasn't clear from all the searches I did which part I needed and these ones did suggest they fitted with the OEM part number of the original. I will get the tape measure out and compare to the others Do you know what defines which diameter? Is it age of vehicle or hatchback versus estate/pickup ?

How tight should the damper be in the hub knuckle. I got new dampers but they just seemed to drop into the hole, I didn't need to tap them in or wiggle them in. obviously the pinch bolt will clamp on the location tag at back of the damper but it doesn't seem very tight around the front of the strut

I was pretty sure I put everything back in the right order. I did notice the replacement lower bearing cup was also very slightly different to the original. I have to take it apart anyway because when I tried to do the other side the damper was shot so I need to replace the damper on the side I replaced the top mount on so I will have a proper look

I did wonder if they were just deformed but they looked so different I wasn't 100 percent sure, especially given the binding up of the bearing when I nipped the top nut. I used a spring compressor to get them off but I didn't try without

I think the problem might be that the top mounts rubbers are slightly different to the ones that are on there. the new ones seem to be a slightly different height than the old ones which mean that even when the nut is just nipped up the bearings bind to the point you can hardly spin them with your hand. the trouble is I have looked everywhere and there only seems to be one top mount rubber available . If I back the nut off a small bit the binding stops

Hi all. I am in the process of replacing the top mounts on my 1994 Favorit. I have bought a replacement top plate rubber mount and bump stop and bearing but not sure how tight the top mount should be when its all back together. The ones I took off were quite easy to spin but when I put the new one on, first Problem is its impossible to toque up the piston nut to the 40Nm the Haynes manual says because you cant hold the piston and use a socket and you can't fit a crows foot spanner due to the top cup so all you can do is nip it up with a ring spanner. But even just nipping up the top mount (likely nowhere near 40Nm) it is very stiff to turn and if I try and tighten it a little more the top mount binds up How should I proceed? thanks

Hi All. I am in the process of doing the rack gaiters on my 94 Favorit. Got the rack end one off and the exposed bit of rack looks a bit dry with only few blobs of pretty miserable looking grease in sight. The Haynes manual says you need to measure out specific quantities of certain types of grease for the rack but doesn't give details. Should I dab a bit of standard lithium automotive Grease on the rack before I put the gaiters on or just leave as is? thanks

Hi All Are the clutch and throttle cables different between LHD and RHD cars? I would have thought at least the clutch cable would be but I can only seem to find one option online Cheers Wes