J.R.

They are grippier on the road even during wet conditions up to the point of standing water, granted wets will give a better lap time in wet conditions but road tyres wouldn't and if you were driving on slicks on the road in wet conditions you would not be driving to the limit, you would likely be sheltering during the worst of it. I did (summer) hillclimbs in Northern France till 2004, I would leave the car on slicks the whole weekend as the Gendarmes would close the roads during the practice and race sessions and were very obliging outside of those times as everyone behaved sensibly. One year I drove to and from the event from Sussex on slicks as my trailer had not been returned by a borrower.

Being for the most part self taught the vast majority of what I have learned in life has been from my mistakes, most I don't class as unfortunate as they were willing decisions to see what the outcome would be, mistaking holes on the rear differential was unfortunate and unintended but learning came from it, if I can pass that on to prevent others doing the same I don't mind sharing my sometimes incompetence with the world, something garages won't do.

Oh I see, when you say "I" you actually mean the person you are addressing the comment to. A seven year old could not be that funny 🤣

OccyVRS Members Joined 3 December, 2024 The only question I have asked was of the OP, was the Haldex perhaps serviced before the fault developed.

I apologise, I did not realise, you write very well for a 6 or 7 year old.

Parts can fail at any time an any mileage, TBH what you have described does not sound like the typical VAG rear diff failure whatsoever, it sounds exactly like a garage that cannot diagnose, keeps fitting more and more expensive parts and finally gives a really high quote hoping you will go elsewhere. For the second point no, if there were no apparent faults then they cannot be expected to identify future ones. You certainly have leverage on the final point, I hope you have not settled the bills yet. Did they by any chance service the Haldex before the problem started?

🤣🤣🤣

Its Google we should both thank! I was not even sure what bi-annual meant so checked, if I ever once knew the word biennial it has long since been forgotten like a large chunk of my English vocabulary. Its been over 20 years now away from an English speaking environment.

No, just the people who choose to use them. Seemingly not much chance of that. My final words will be to answer one of your questions: Because I checked the manufacturers date code which is stamped on every new tyre.

Amazing! You are telling me I should buy tyres on credit now, given I have had no income since the confinement I have a feeling I know what the answer would be were I to seek credit. I would happily buy and use good used brake discs from a breakers yard but they would cost more than new here. The people making their living through the resale of part worn tyres and their tens of thousands of customers disprove that. Try being a little less judgemental of others.

Bi-annual or Biennial? Servicing costs £340 per year or £85 per year? The latter I hope!

Wishing or not you have done. You yourself are driving on part worn tyres. Thankfully being judgemental does not make you the judge.

Problem will likely be a temperature sensor in the passenger side heater duct, I believe there are more than one.

ABS intervention is not speed dependent.

Are you sure the correct fuse was removed? If it was the dashboard should have lit up like fault code city. The fuse layout in the manuals for RHD cars are usually wrong (reversed) but as FrenchTone has I presume a LHD car his would be correct.

You are making a couple of assumptions, that your EPC light has come on because of an earlier reported broken hose on a purge valve and that the hose you have identified is said item. The latter is probably correct, the former in doubt, the first thing you should do is have the fault codes read.

If you buy the bearing alone (my preference as its cheaper) then you have to press out the old bearing and press the new in. If you buy a bearing and housing assembly no press needed but you are likely to need to give the old one the good news with a club hammer to remove it, I think the driveshaft can remain in place, touch wood I have not had to replace one yet.

Try disconnecting the wiring connector from the Haldex controller and see if the clonking stops. It should not be engaged during coasting anyway but worth doing the check. My rationale is that if there is any transmission wind up due to the tyre delta circumference then one front wheel is going to scrub or hop, the passenger one carrying less load.

The solenoid winding connector (the thin wire not the large cable) removes easily if you know the knack of VAG connectors, find a similar accessible one and practice on that. Or make contact to the terminal pin using a probe through the water/dust proofing rubber ring.

Name one other than for winter tyres in Scandanavian countries.

Had no other choice for 15 years. I always selected a matching set of 4 that were evenly worn, usually those that had been changed at 4mm tread depth, the cheapest and with more life and grip left in them than they had delivered the original purchaser.

For what reason? Regarding the use of "also" I have not said that I am not a fan, indeed I now know from experience that it is essential for my vehicle.

Confirmation beep and indicator flashing are all long coding options in VCDS. It sounds to me that the drivers door lock microswitch is not functioning, ignition on and off 2 times in short succession probably has the same effect on the alarm as pressing the door lock button on the keyfob twice which I think is has long coding options.

All the discussion in this topic was about retaining the existing calipers. I think we are broadly on the same page although I cannot make sense of: My example was for the same calipers with the same pedal force applied to a larger diameter master cylinder, ie someone applies 150kg of force through their right leg to the brake pedal, reducing the master cylinder bore will increase the braking effort albeit with longer pedal travel, increasing the master cylinder bore will reduce the resultant braking effort.. For a given caliper piston size an increase in braking force from a given pedal pressure is achieved by increasing the force amplification of the direct acting servo, this in turn requires a larger control loading spring which reduces feedback and drastically increases the pedal force needed to bring the vehicle to a halt if the vacuum or servo fails or the engine stalls on a manifold vacuum system (petrol engines only)

Ignore it, it is a fictional calculated figure, if you look through the thousands of VCDS parameters you will find one where the grammes per km can be altered, likely there will be many and also with contrary names, only one is for your vehicle if at all. You can also reset the oil ash value to zero even with a completely clogged DPF showing how ridiculous it is to be guided by the value of the measuring block. The only one that concerns me is the increase in particle filter differential pressure over time/distance. My DPF has moved a long way towards becoming clogged witnessed by the rising differential pressure readings, its because I was scammed into buying engine oil that claimed to be low SAPS but isn't, yet the oil ash figure is that of a car with very few miles on it, the amount of miles it has done since I asked myself "I wonder what would happen if I reset this to zero?"