J.R.

If you like throwing good money after bad then yes, if you don't then its the time to invest in VCDS.

Is there actually a transmission drain plug? Given that the oil is for life and there is no service requirement it would surprise me that they would continue the expense of machining and parts for a drain plug. There can be no airlock if you had removed the filler plug before draining.

Cars are scornful of and do not respect "light force". Have at it properly!

If you no longer have the carcass of the old key then you have problems, do you have a spare original key that used to start the vehicle? If so then use the chip out of that and have a second cloned key made at the same time. Was the inductive reader coil around the ignition barrel disturbed, removed or disconnected?

Please dont scrap a rare and sought after car for a few minor repairs, sell it to an enthusiast who can repair it, if that person turns out to be Pete even better!

On the other hand Halfrauds and other garages will never disconnect the battery when using the electronic testers because they want the result to falsely show the battery being in poor health.

I have one, they are very good but the % life remaining figures should be viewed with informed scepticism, better to go by the CCA reading, compare it to the batteries original rating and ask yourself would this car reliably start if I fitted a new smaller battery with the CCA rating that my current battery is showing, the answer is usually yes for maybe a couple of winters. Also be aware that they will give a false reading if the battery is still connected to the vehicle unless you trick the vehicle into thinking it is switched off and locked like you would do for a parasitic current reading, the same applies to any voltmeter readings but using the electronic drop tester the current being consumed by the active Canbus modules is going to give a result like 60% life remaining on a brand new fully charged battery, disconnect it and it will test at 100% life remaining.

Yes, that is how I do it when the piston requires excessive torque to retract, I attach the caliper with one mounting bolt through the upper fixing hole into the lower tapped thread or the lower one with it swinging loose, one or the other, I can't recall which, maybe either.

If you look at the several other threads created and specifically the 4 wheel alignment data (castor angle) you will observe that the OP is in denial of that and is seeking a software solution.

Il faut communiquer en Anglais sur ce forum. "try this" voulait dire essayer en Anglais en utilisant Google Translate.

Its the alloy not the stud you should be heating, in fact a heat sink or cooling the stud with a wet rag creates more differential expansion. That said from the photos it doesn't look like it was ever going to release, cutting the alloy away would have been the only way to save the stud. Hopefully you can drill out the remains cleanly, do you have any left hand flute drill bits?

A fanciful claim, do you have anything to back that up? Temporarily increased during the brake roller test or for a while afterwards?

No he simply accepted that your delusions are beyond rationality. 99.9% of the charge cycles on 99.9% of the vehicle batteries on the planet are at full alternator charging current.

Even 50 years ago when cars were flimsy they would be stacked 3 high in breakers yards, that gives you an idea of the static load that a flimsy vehicle roof can support, modern safety standards dictate far more strength than that. Does anyone recall a VW advert from the late 80's might have been early 90's showing an RTA where a large saloon car ended up perched on the roof of a VW Polo which was undamaged? That would have been a very dynamic load as well 😀 It was on a West Sussex road near Small Dole, I remember because the Polo owner successfully sued VAG for using the image of his vehicle without permission. You will have no problem with a roof tent, just watch out for helicopters landing on it 😀

You believed them?

You are into that rustbucket for £18K plus lord knows how many hours of work. I could understand if it was a classic car or one so rare and special that you wanted to create the best example but not from that rusty shell.

Most mechanics on an unknown vehicle would want to fit a new gasket, they save nothing by not doing so and risk an oil leak, an unhappy customer and having to do the job a second time for free. The exception would be if they had recently removed and replaced the cover with a new gasket and not used sealant. I was helping a friend today whose 2.0 DCi transits timing gears and wet belts had lunched themselves, we pulled the cam ladder frame assembly off to see if the valves were bent, he asked me if he should replace the gasket, I said no as it was thick plastic and had seperated without damage, had he asked me before we stripped the engine I would have said yes, he will probably buy one with the other parts anyway. VAG would insist on the gasket being replaced every time.

Forgive me for asking a very basic perhaps even condescending question. I am assuming from the above that you are lifting you right foot off the accelerator pedal when depressing the clutch, is that correct? I have known people go from automatic transmission to manual who didnt.

They may be working, you may need to be moving, I thought my DRL's were not working but they are extinguished when the handbrake is applied, the cornering lights will most certainly be inhibited in that instance. It's very hard to actually see if they are working without a second person watching.

I like that! 👍

That phrase usually has the opposite to the intended effect.

I think the Allen key was in the cover you have removed, in any case you can see the hexagon on the motor worm gear, turn that carefully with your own Allen key. Carefully in case I dreamed the whole thing because if that is indeed a worm drive then it may not turn without shearing the motor pinion, dependent on the lead angle worm drives are normally irreversible.

Me too, very inspiring.

Thank you for your observations.

My ABS has not cut in for the last year aside from when I have tested it. Somewhat of a contrast to when I was 30 with a company Sierra XR4x4 when it would be solicited multiple times during my 20 minute journey to and from work. Plenty of older vehicles do not have ABS, that does not make them dangerous or unfit for the road.