J.R.

It all leaves me cold I'm afraid, I would be far more interested in seeing pictures of your proper 35 year year old doeswhatitsaysonthetin bikes. Mine is an 80's Dawes Switchback, still feels modern to me, has done everything that I could ask of it for close to 40 years and I have no desire to change it.

That made me laugh out loud On the positive side, if anyone else asks "what does your car sound like after you have F'd it up?" then the OP will be able to post a sound recording Editted, should read "looks and sounds like" as they asked for video with good sound.

They were not there to protect the occupants, they were there to protect the bodywork, for pushing or towing another vehicle to start it, for drink & testorone filled tyre smoking pushing competitions, lifting the vehicle as Kenny says etc etc. And for tying to a tree to bring them and the chassis rail back to shape when you did manage to deform them.

Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests.

Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests. Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests. Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests. Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests. Doesnt everyone that virtue signals environmental awareness drive an SUV? Not to mention the private jet to fly between continents to climate change conferences or to be photographed on street protests.

In my formative years when cars were a means of transport and not a connected lifestyle statement you could buy an aluminium spacer block, one flat face to fit behind the towball the other with a V profile that corresponded to the profile of most rear bumpers, you drilled 2 holes in your bumper and bolted the towball on with extended bolts and hooked up your trailer, caravan or whatever. Electric socket? What would you need one for, most trailers did not have working lights or even any fitted at all. I didn't even own an electric drill then and used a hand drill starting with an 1/8" drill bit working progressively up to a 5/8" reduced shank blacksmith drill in a brace & bit. But those were also the days when a car bumper did what it said on the tin instead of being a piece of painted plastic intended to line the pockets or insurers and paint shops.

I have just bough one of the sets. I have no idea why 🥴 I have never stripped one of these bolts nor ever seen one stripped. But I do like tools 😀 I do like bargains 😀 and I do like being prepared for everything or being able to help others out And I wanted to celebrate having (I hope, fingers crossed) some income for the first time in 4 months, backdated 4 months and the security of knowing the support from my government (France) will continue to the end of the year. In years to come someone with gorrilla hands will thank me for my foresight and I in turn will thank you although I wont recall your name as I've already forgotten it. So long as I dont forget that I have the kit or where it is stored! Am going to buy a muti-thread helicoil set now!

If that noise is not the creaking of a handbrake not quite managing to do its job then I am a Dutchman. Regards Van Der Valk.

Uranus?

Go to Eurocraparts and give them your registration number, whatever filter they produce telling you that its the only one fitted to your vehicle tell them forcibly that its the wrong one and they will go away and produce another that will be the correct one. I am not a gambling man but can guarantee that Eurocraparts will always provide the wrong part.

Its amazing how much tighter and nicer a good example can be to drive rather than an average one or a shed Its hard going back after straying!

What was the one that I test drove, the 1.9 PD?

MFD problem resolved by doing a VCDS scan which will have connected to and communicated with the instrument controller. I had a look at the coding re the radio etc and think I know more what the problem there is but not how to resolve it, I am asking here first before creating a thread as I think one of you may know the answer. The fault code problems of not communicating with the removed radio etc may have been due to my changing the can gateway controller at the same time and recoding it for my vehicle, perhaps incorrectly. VCDS is showing 2 "Installed controllers" that are not present and hence trys but cannot communicate with them, one is the OE radio now removed, the other is Satnav that I have never had but I suspect was fitted to the vehicle the later canbus gateway came from. Now here is the confusing bit, in the long coding of the canbus gateway these options are unchecked. Under Byte 4 navigation module 37 is unchecked but shows up on the installed modules screen of VCDS, no options at all are ticked for byte 4 and its coding is 00 Under Byte 5 again nothing is ticked, coding is 00 yet Radio Analogue module 56 shows up on the installed modules screen of VCDS. Under byte 6 Can gateway standard is selected. If I look through the printouts of my earlier scans I should be able to find the long coding for the original canbus gateway controller. Below hopefully is the autoscan showing the fault codes showing at present, ignore the heater flap one, that is always clicking away. Log-TMBGS21Z862234806.txt Any ideas? I thought of perhaps checking the options, saving the new coding then deleting them again? Or should I start this as a seperate thread?

Can you confirm was the handbrake on or off when the video was recorded? The noise is that which Wino describes but the cause may vary according to the answer to the above.

The same pipe on my Octavia comes off the side of the air filter housing, that had split and I simply wrapped some insulation tape around it, the engine control systems were not in the slightest bit changed when it was breathing unfitered air and when it was back to breathing filtered air. The function of that damper is to smooth out the pulsations present in the induction tract, anyone who has used an old school Gunson Carb-balancer on individual chokes of a DCOE carb will recall seeing the white indicator bouncing up and down like a demon, the damper is to stop the vacuum actuators doing the same thing, its probably just filled with foam or a labrinth.

Just twist the wires together and put some sellotape over the joins to insulate them. It can't make a worse connection than the yellow connectors And just in case anyone does not realise the above was a joke, dont do that with a safety critical item like an airbag, - pity nobody told Skoda that 😞 Many people solder the wires together to do away with the connector completely.

I think so because I had to change the canbus gateway for a later revision one because of battery discharge problems. I was reflecting on the problem while driving back in the Yeti, went to the same menu and had to stop myself from trying it there I think simply interrogating the controller with VCDS might nudge it back to the default MFD display, it might also have a new and perhaps significant fault code, seems like the best place to start. Thanks for the link, I will read it and learn!

Phil E, I have tried many permutations in VCDS to get rid of the faultcode, could not find a no radio fitted option, I may even have recoded it to the wrong one. Worryingly since swapping the radio it has always brought up a fault code saying instrument cluster faulty but it has worked perfectly until now where I have found its achilles heel. I have even more fault codes on the Yeti from the head unit swap as that has/had a factory bluetooth setup which no longer works and each start up its trying to find and pair with phones belonging to the previous owner which I am not able to remove from its memory, the car in theory now has 2 bluetooth systems neither of which are working but my only bluetooth phone is not used for calls anyway. Editted, you may be onto something re a radio setting in the instrument cluster controller, I never thought of looking their. It would be good to get all those non comm fault codes sorted before its sold.

The 20 seconds thing is a good one, I am not known for patience! Will also try the holding down on power up, not much left to lose. Failing that I am quite confident that the default on a power up reboot is the MFD, if it isn't then I'm screwed.

Compunding decade(s) old German 2 pack clear coat to a feather edge, - Do you really believe that or are you speaking from experience?

The dodgiest place that you will ever park your car is on your own driveway with the keys in the house. Granted the car might be lifted at your work or another less overlooked place after your keys have been stolen but in general car thieves need the chipped key (I am ignoring the keyless security issue) and for an upmarket car you drive through an upmarket area, when you see a car on the drive its pretty certain where the keys will be.

Its on the intake side of the turbocharger is it not? Other than partially bypassing the airfilter and allowing a small proportion unfiltered air in to the engine I believe the MAP sensor will give the correct reading, its a bit like fitting a less restrictive air filter. If I have misinterpreted the photo view please correct me.

That is very kind of you MicMac. I just hope you dont end up trapped in the same black hole as me, remember no good deed goes unpunished I take it that you still have the standard radio?

He answered the question, he said he had no idea where it was located. No rules against speculation AFAIK.

I repaired a dent in my front wheel arch & lower part of the wing, its a solid colour blue, I blew in half of the panel using basecoat and then lacqueur and I challenge anybody to even see the blend line. It can be done especially with clear coat over a solid colour, admittedly a horizontal panel like a bonnet is the hardest. Compound wont help the OP as its a base & clear finish with peeling lacqueur. Yes it should be properly flatted before the clear coat applied & then flatted & compounded when dried.