911hillclimber

Think I have this all sorted now, both fobs work as buttons and keyless. Changed the batteries in both fobs at Skoda dealership this afternoon, and even the handbook tells you how to sync the fobs together(!). As I did this (press out of sync fob button once (any button) and wait 1 minute. Key synchonizes with the car. The more I tried the freshly synchronized fob the more even the operation, ie both front doors unlocked off the button and keyless, then all doors, then the boot as well and then the engine could be started. Now, both fobs are the same. Result! Cost of battery changes, just £13.86 for two batteries fitted there and then, and the chance to talk a little about the forthcoming new Skoda Superb, quite fancy one! Surprisingly cheap i thought.

No, nothing like that. I hope to drop into my Skoda dealer (who sold me the car) tomorrow and ask them if the two fobs/car can be 'aligned' and both work the Keyless Locking. Maybe the battery in the unused fab is flat, it has been 10 years just in a drawer.

I've had my fab Skoda from new, bought in July 2014. It's just turned 90K miles, sweet as a nut. I've only used the one key fab from day one. That key fob has had 4 batteries, changed before they failed. Last battery went in 3 weeks ago, 'life time' battery. This fob works perfectly although the keyless lock 'touch' on the handle was hesitant this afternoon, but worked fine second try. This could be just me and touching the handle in the wrong spot, it is sensitive to exactly where you make contact, both front doors are like this from new. I tried the second unused key fob this afternoon and it flashes the small red light but the car does not respond in any way (only tried it to lock/unlock the car). I presume the two key codes are miles apart from each other, or the unused second fob's battery is too weak to work with the car. Not sure, but can anyone please advise how to get the two fobs to work with the car? Thanks in advance, Graham.

Bang on! It is a bright afternoon now, 3 pm and tried the car. The panel lights are on (dim) with no lights switched on. Switch the lights to SIDE and the panel stays dimly alight. Switch to headlamps and the panel light are 3 times brighter. So, indeed, the car tells you when to go to head lamps by cutting the panel lights OFF (not to the dim level). Neat safety feature. We rarely drive this car at night so the dash lamps will stay off until you switch to head lamps. Excellent, thank you.

Seems the car is 'normal' after all. My 2014 Superb has none of this, all works when on sides as well as headlamps of course. Thank you to all! Graham.

Just read it is the correct function. The car not switching on the panel lights when side lights switched on reminds you that you really should have the headlights on! Is that true?

We have had this great little car from new. 17K miles, all ok, but a curious thing is the instrument panel lights do not come on unless in the Headlamp position, thus they are off when the sidelights are switched on, then on when head lamps are selected. Is this normal or is there a menu somewhere to allow panel lights on with sides and headlamps? It's been like this from new we think, but not sure!

Indeed! Car covered for RAC recovery etc, so all good. Interesting that 'episode' came and went which is always 'there' in the mind. Time will tell, but could have spent £700 for nothing.

The car I intend to buy is a 2019 registration, have not seen the car yet as it is in 'preparation'. But the dealer says it does not have the spare wheel of any type, just the moose and tool kit. The boot floor on such cars is lower (I think) so quite a 100mm step at the rear cill point, thus the full size may not fit as the well is shallow. I'll need to wait until i see the car next week in person and check it out. I'm not obliged to buy it yet until after the test drive to ensure it is what we need and the ride is compliant rather than jarring.

Quick up-date on the clutch in my wifes low miles Citigo, 6 years old now. All working perfectly! Left the clutch alone and the glitch has stayed away. Can this be true, i always have car grief!

About to surrender my beloved 2014 Tour du France Superb for a L&K Superb, 2019. I think the L&K package does not have a full size spare wheel in the boot floor, just an inflation moose. Looks like you can buy the full size spare wheel/tyre/tools as a kit which will drop into the well just like my current TduF car. On google, I can buy the 18" wheel spare for around £300 which seems a good deal. This is from a Skoda dealer. Will it fit?

A week on and the car is still changing gear ok, but a few days ago it went awkward on start-up, but freed off almost immediately. Been perfect since. We will wait until it get much worse, especially after this lot: Asked 2 Skoda dealers local in Wolverhampton for an estimate to replace the clutch. i used their email 'Request information etc' link on their sites. Nothing, just 'we have your email' WHY is it dealers invite you use their contact link then ignore it? Maybe they only know how to arrange finance nowadays... Or do not know how to change a Citigo clutch. Local garage also seems put off to take the job on by quoting £999.40 includes everything (by that, VAT etc) 4.5 hours quoted at , say, £80/hour = £360. How can a Citigo non dual mass clutch cost £640? I've just bought a SACHS genuine heavy duty clutch 3 piece kit (even with special pinion spigot grease) with special light weight cover plate for my 1973 Porsche 911 for £370 deliverd to my door in 23 hours. These Citigos must be something hard and special! Where are all the real motor trade people nowadays gents?

Thank you all, but.... I took the warm car out yesterday and drove it badly. By that I mean I slipped the clutch like a learner pulling away several time to 'clean' the face of the driven plate. Not to the point of a smelling clutch, but gave it some grief. Neither of us drive this way, always super smooth and very measured pulling away. anyway, acid test this morning, wife off to the shops in the cold car. Started it. Snicked into gear just like it was new, and for all these years since, and drove a dream! Drove it again some 6 hours later, just the same but with me driving, absolutely NO probs, just the usual rattling clutch release when you change gear (so irritating, car's only fault). So, we will let sleeping dogs lye and see what the future brings. I am close to Birmingham, so that recommendation is appreciated, thank you.

Thank you for your reply to my question. I am quite well versed in 'car maintenance' but tend to keep away from modern cars and working on them. Just disconnecting the battery seems to generate it's own list of issues! Car will be driven today to the shops, will see what my wife says when she returns, but i do think it is a trip to a garage i trust, but that has recently been tricky to find! There is so much slap-dash working practice about, seems nobody cares anymore. My last encounter trying a new place was they left a liberal run/splashing of brake fluid over the engine of my Skoda superb after a fluid change, who would do that? Still, have another in mind, at least have lots to chose from, even the Skoda dealer we bought it from! I'm going there on Friday to get some touch-up paint, so perfect opportunity.

Wifes' Citigo Monte Carlo. Bought it new, 16K miles now, 66 reg. She gets 60mpg and even I get 55 so 'carefully' driven. no traffic driving, just shopping and a weekly good A road run to clear it's throat. Only had to replace 2 light bulbs. However... She found getting into any gear a struggle today before setting off to the shops, and this has been happening every now and then over the last month. All gears awkward which suggests clutch dragging to me. This is when 'cold' ie about 15/20 degC. Box is lovely and smooth with engine off. From new the box has the rattle when you change gear unless you are very very smooth and care to lift the clutch pedal, but I think this is a common irritation (thrust bearing??). So, what are your thought please? I presume the clutch is hydraulic so non adjustable. Could this mean a new clutch coming our way? Comments appreciated, thank you.

I'm ahead of you! When all this game started someone on here suggested fine Baby powder(!). I hired a ramp locally (£8 hour, a bargain) got the car up and 'puffed' baby powder in the turbo area while the engine was hot and running. I dowsed the length of the exhaust too. The baby powder is very fine and whaffs about in the air. Any leaks and jets of gasses would show as disturbance of the powder as you suggest. Absolutely nothing, the powder just sank slowly through the air to the ramp. I did this for about 30 mins all to no avail. I did tell the operator what i was doing as he was very surprised, but said the workshop had never smelt so nice!

And all murder to get to I guess esp as the car is a 4x4 version. Will have a think how to move forward. It's had a new steel 'shim' gasket and clamp from manifold to turbo about 3 years ago when this rose it's head. Did nothing.

Thank you all for your replies, all helpful. I've been putting my head in the sand over this as while driving the burnt fumes do not invade, and when hot the stop/start stops fumes too. However, I did a quick cold start examination around the turbo area: Cold engine allows hand access to the area between the turbo itself and the bulkhead. There is a noticeable cold area that suggests a fine leak and air/fumes escaping under pressure. This 'draft' is coming from the bulkhead and not from the turbo/engine (!) What could be mounted around that area? Since new there has always been a light 'wheeze' sound from the turbo changing from 1st to 2nd, no other gears. The fuel consumption can be a carefully driven 60 mpg (4x4 remember) or a more normal/town driving of 46/49mpg. Towing the trailer and car = 32 mpg. The car is starting to get expensive (81K miles) and I wont spend hundreds on this issue but may be time to p/x and get something else, maybe another petrol engined 4x4 Superb.

Thank you for your reply. I've have this car from new, and know nothing has been done like that on this engine, but the last 'specialist' did change the steel manifold/turbo gasket and clamp using VAG parts. I think this repair has failed again. hope to check around the area tomorrow now the freeze is over for a few days. You can stretch over the engine when just started and while things a cool and the mixture rich.

Thank you for that, I'll give it an Italian Service asap!

Thanks for your reply. I had this problem 3 years ago, the turbo/manifold gasket was changed and the special clamp too, and the AUDI specialist who did the job checked things over, but I was never convinced it was right. The car is a 4x4 Tour de France which cramps the space in and around the turbo so hard to check, but will follow it all up. Will try another garage, the AUDI guy can't be trusted. The turbo is all sealed as an engine bay by a thick rubber seal so I would hope any fumes would be kept away from the air intake and the filter would catch any fumes that might get by. If leaking, a soot should be present?

2014 Superb Estate, 80K miles, bought new by me, lovely car, 2 litre turbo Diesel However.. Recently, while standing still, engine running at tick over fumes will enter the cabin space very quickly from start-up. Cabin filter is the top level of filtration, does this with all windows closed, fan on '2 marks' A/C off. No blowing or unusual noised from engine bay anywhere esp around the turbo. Performance is strong as ever, tows well etc. Any experiences/ideas/solutions please?

Just to close this miserable thread off. Contacted Wingmirror man about this incorrect part. 2 emails back saying sorry, but they can only resolve things by me removing the mirror off the car and sending it back, at my cost. They assured me that any part found to be faulty would be investigated and the issue resolved, even sending another (correct) part. They gave no timescale to this. This would mean the car would be off the road for possibly a month as it took that long to get the faulty one. Thier reply was 'Sorry, you have to send it back with a return code taken off their web site, post it back and wait.' I suggested they send me a correct one and I'll return the faulty one. No, you have to return it with a code ...etc. Sorry (again) In other words 'Get lost' Wonder how a garage would deal with this situation, wrong part and the customer car off the road? BEWARE!

The motor units for the glass are different, new v Skoda, so can't transfer over the parts. Have resigned to living with the restricted view or to stick one of those small mirrors to the glass to widen the view. for towing, Can always use the mirror extension. Shame, I had hoped for the part to be correct rather than a compromise.

I've just emailed them. I have the motor off the original mirror and it is only a few mins to remove the new one and swop for the old and see what happens. I can check the part numbers in that swop over. As I tow with the car, I really would like the widest view on the driver's side. The glass that came with the new unit is not the same, it does not have the line down it as the original Skoda one has, but both mirrors give the same field of view, so it must be down to the powered alignment motor moulding. Oddly, the two mirrors adjust when switched to 'Right'!