911hillclimber

Just noticed, my wife's 66 plate Citigo Monte Carlo will start with the clutch pedal not depressed, box in or out of gear. I'm sure there was a time when it was younger you needed to depress the pedal to enable the start like all modern cars. Car has just turned 21K miles. Starts instantly as usual pedal down or up. Must be a switch somewhere failed?

I don't think you can on the IV, probably seen as an essential safety system? The principle of auto lock when just on the move was started in the late 80's in the USA when I worked on central locking of cars. It came later into the UK .

Warrior is right! Had a play about on the car's screen this afternoon. Select Car layout and then the 'gearwheel' symbol, and then there is a screen full of things to change or select. In scrolling down you come to the door locking side of life and 3 options to select one from. It was on Driver's Side locking, so selected All Doors and the jobs done. Kessy triggered from either front door opens all the doors simultaneously, pressing the fob 'unlock' button from (say) 10 meters away will also open all doors together. This was how we had our old Superb (the old one had no options), so we are back to how we like it. I then explored many other parameters finding the Eco/Normal/Sport/custom driving modes; it was on Normal, so have now selected ECO to see how that feels and performs. We just roll down the road to the speed limits in the West Midlands, too much traffic to be a hero, too many active cameras and camera vans. Stress-free motoring this way, so my 34 mpg should be improved? Will be on sport for towing the trailer and race car (1100Kg weight total). Can't get over how quickly it warms up, easily 4 times faster than the old car's Diesel. This car keeps getting better. Love it, and having to resist using it as the daily driver, but it needs a new rear wiper as the judder is LOUD! Replacing this will have it sorted. We are using the wife's Citigo for a lot of errands now, 55 mpg, small, nimble and light to drive. Simple to live with and can do so much, but slow to go uphill! Would probably fit in the Superb's boot.

Thank you both, but I think I have the answer! The car is a million bhp DSG Nov 2023 rocket ship and great, but there are SO MANY options etc is is all a bit senseless imho, but I'm old! I called the salesman at the Skoda dealer I bought it from (!) and apparently, you touch the driver's door handle back face once (which unlocks the two side doors) and then just after touch the driver's door handle again which releases the passenger side doors. Bit of a rapid two -touch action.... This is all about safety. The kessy first touch opens the drivers side only so the passenger doors cannot be opened as you get in and some unwanted person tries to get in, or swipe the handbag, laptop etc. If you want/need to open the whole car to let the wife in with you then 2 touch is required. Way way back in the late 1980's i worked in the car industry mainly in the European and USA markets just when central locking was making an appearance in normal price cars. John Fowler down at Rover in Cowley coined a phase in a meeting i was in about car security design: 'More Security, Less Convenience' Oh, how true.

Traded my Tour de France 2014 for a potent Series 4 superb, a week ago. Fab car, love it, but it is 'complicated'! Have an issue with the kessy system (maybe). I cannot find on the dash the right section to adjust the kessy, so asking for advise here please. Situation: Key fob in pocket, approach driver's door, pull the handle, and it unlocks the driver's SIDE of the car, passenger side stays locked.(irritates the wife!) Walk round to the passenger side, pull the front door handle and that side unlocks, so whole car is unlocked. Car can be locked from touching the driver's side front handle as designed. This operation is consistent, never changes as it stands. My old superb would unlock all the doors with a kessy pull of either Driver's or Passenger front door handles. Can I configure the kessy on my new car to do the same? If so, how can I do this as I can't see anything on the dash options (car settings, infotainment etc)

Yes, a Budget Car' and a fair comment. Time to turn the radio on which is very rare in our cars. As a '66' year car it is pre-face lift I think. Only bothers me, not the wife!

Thanks for your reply. It does seem to be a common issue due to a simple clutch and engine vibrations, but suspect more to do with the release bearing. Just irritating!

Wife's car, great little thing and love the challenge of hitting 60 mpg every time we use it. One niggle it has had from new, when you change gear there is a rattle as the pedal is raised, every time unless you 'feed' the clutch is oh so carefully. This happens whatever rpm you are running, hot or cold car. Standing still, engine running the rattle is there, press the clutch in and it dissapears, so: Clutch release bearing? Input shaft in the box moving? Clutch itself? Or, 'they all do that Sir' Clutch action is smoooooth, gear shift a super light action in all gears, up and down the box. Are they indeed all like this?

Job done. Invaluable video, thanks again for posting. Learnt a few things that the video misses, like getting the bonnet release lever off, but everything now working correctly. Getting the center cover off is a real hard pull with your heart in your mouth waiting for broken clips, but oddly slipped neatly back on. My wires to the console were just too short to slide the console far enough back (the handbrake gets in the way too), so did disconnect them. Worst part of the job besides that was getting the bonnet release cover off No screws left over so should be rattle-free..... Whole job took 1 hour, changing the resistor about 30 seconds of course. So, £180 saved! Thank you all for the help.

What a helpful reply that is!! Perfect, and answers a lot for me. As you say, WHY make such a simple part so inaccessible I'll never know. Made my day! Thank you very much indeed.

Trying to do this task today. 2 hours and I've removed 7 screws and the box is still in place! It is 'free' to move at the door end but fastened at the center console side. I cannot find any screws to release on the console side. There must be some more screws all hidden from me. Anyone with any advice please?

I meant in broad terms; the blower accessible via the absent glovebox, the speed control resistor pack in the fan/housing, the cabin filter in much the same location, just that really. I was expecting the resistor pack on the UP!/Citigo MII to be somewhere different due to the size of the car, maybe behind the dash switch, but thankfully not.

So the glove box stays there? Oddly, I changed the blower motor on my 2014 Skoda Superb a few months ago and had to remove the glove box, but after that the access was very good.. I thought the two cars would have similar construction. Part now on order, will go fishing under the dash soon. Thank you for your reply, I hope I'm as able as you!

Thank you for a quick response! I saw that video this afternoon prior to my post. I was hoping that you did not have to remove the centre panels, seems you do for RHD. Still, not too bad.

Citigo, 20K miles. The blower fan speed has suddenly only runs at max, the other positions on the dash switch are dead. I think this is the resistor pack (the green part on a round housing) because the blower works hard on max speed. Where is this resistor pack fitted please? Any steps to get to it welcome. I presume it is glove box out and it reveals the blower motor case and it is there somewhere? Thanks in advance, Graham.

Well, the other fob did not work out. It would open the fronts but the rears stayed locked! Plan C was to have a new battery fitted to the original well used fob, and now everything works perfectly, all doors, open/ lock by touch or by button or a mix of both. All sorted.

2014 Estate, 95K miles, owned by me from new, but KESS system getting erratic, so asking for some advice please. The key fobs were both given new batteries 9 months ago. The keyless unlock/lock has worked faultlessly from new until a week ago. The car always locks/unlocks on the key fob buttons, but: Sometimes the touch to open will not work, (both doors), unlock button works. A few moments or minutes later the touch to lock will not work (both doors), lock button works. Sometimes everything works! When working, the touch commands will work in quick succession if I touch the right spots correctly. I feel the touch sensors on the two front door handles are working, but i also think the sensor that picks the touch up and fires the whole system is intermittent quite suddenly from working 100% to less than 10%. I guess the touch and button signals are not the same circuits? Is there a control unit for this or is it all part of the security/alarm etc system. I presume the button sensor is in the rear view mirror housing? I'm worried the key fob will start to fail too. Any comments please as to an explanation and of course a fix! Might have found the issue just. The fob that is never used (but had it's battery changed same time as the most used fob) seems to work buy the KESSY touch 100%. As it has just sat in the draw since the new battery I presume the battery is stronger than the well used fob. It will work by touch when the used fob fails to respond to touch. Will change the battery in the well used fob. I have tried the 'life-time' batteries at Timpsons and they failed in months, the batteries SKODA dealership uses are much better.

This issue with the car is still with us, no worse despite the years past, but no better either. Guess that means something. I like the idea of pressurizing the exhaust system presumably from the tail pipes up to the turbo. Back then I hired a hoist at a local motorcycle garage (£10/hour) so could really look around and found nothing. Many years ago i had a Jaguar X Type estate, 2 litre deisel and that have a similar issue, one of the floor pan sean was displaced, fume crept in when stationary. All clear when fixed 9by Jaguar them selves.) Will explore the options listed above, thank you.

I can't find my original thread on this, so will repeat myself and see what can be suggested. Skoda Superb Mk2, 2014 4x4 Tour de France now @ 92K miles. Engine as per factory, 2 litre and runs a dream, starts well no matter what and totally serviced to schedule from new. Almost from new but noticeably so after 3 years in we would have exhaust fumes enter the cabin when stationary and when the stop/start function was not engaged (ie towing). Local AUDI independent specialist tried to find the problem and concluded it was the gasket from he turbo to the Cat, really a metal shim and a big clamp. This was changed but issue still there. Seems to be worse now, so seaking advice please on the problem and the fix. From the previous thread of about 3 years ago I think someone said it was a 'thing/valve' by the turbo that will have cracked, leaking fumes and this is right by the fresh air intake, hence the ingress. Part is cheap, labour could be £800 as it is a 4/4 and the gearbox size is right in the way, turbo off etc. On cold start I can feel no blowing, hear no blowing and the area around the turbo is not sooty. After about 60k miles there must be some evidence to find? So, any thoughts please?

I should have concluded this little saga: The car went in for a new NSF lower wishbone, an alignment 4 wheel check and adjust and the chassis is about laser straight. Prob better than it left the factory.... Armed with a PASS and 4 new tyres (Conti Premium Contact) and a laser sharp chassis the car drives really well! And so it should., and it all cost around £800. Steering weight is far less than before and those tiny lateral shakes are all gone. We are towing tomorrow/weekend, so will be interesting to 'feel' how things are. Over my 10 years of ownership from new it's had: Diesel fume ingress every now and then at standstill, still has this. Started just after 3 years from new. Anti vibration damper on the rear prop shaft. New front discs and pads, rears still good. Haldex pump and filter replaced 3 years ago Head light bulb and one rear reg plate bulb OS repeat indicator unit (was a farce that was, cr*p garage, no more used. Had to fit a new wing mirror as a result. Ventillation blower unit a month ago Last year a huge pot hole impact at 50 mph, damage was NSF front strut (it blew the oil seals out) and new top mount, new tyre which ended up as 4 new tyres, front end aligned. I had both struts and mounts changed at the same time. It was the NSF lower arm bushing that had failed, failed MoT and the tyres and the 4 wheel alignment.. Quite painful writing that lot out! For those interested, here are the suspension results before all the repairs, and as the car is today:

Should have said a young BMW 3 Series estate, young as in less than 25K miles. I think the 92K miles on my Superb is showing through. Can't yet find another 4x4 Superb, and will not be buying new ever again.

Think I'm at the bottom line on all this now. Car had an MoT this afternoon and failed. The NSF lower wishbone bush(s) are worn, so a new one needed. It is this corner that could not be aligned to match the OSF the other day. Last week the wife said she thought she could feel something 'going-on' by her foot well... So, yet more money to be spent next Tuesday, £253 for the fitting/part/re-align and re-MoT. Suddenly, after 10 great years this car is costing me too much. Car worth little now, about £7K tops and getting very close to good=money-after-bad. Time for a BMW i think.

Interesting! I doubt the place that did the alignment will tackle that!! I presume the car came this way, but seeing them tomorrow and will ask them. Thank you v much for the reply, most helpful.

Superb Mk2, 2014 reg, 92K miles. My troubles with this car continue, but could do with a bit of advice please... After a service at Skoda dealership last week 3 tyres were given a RED warning for damage. They were 12 months old and 10K miles in. NSF and NSR were locally down to the canvas (!) and OSF had a small tear in the inner side wall. The OSR was fine. So, bit the bullet ad have had 4 new Continentals fitted (1st place in recent Autoexpress review). Has a 4 wheel check and re-alignment on the car also and the result was evil, all corners all over the place. All now straight, BUT... The OSF is stuck at - 1deg 23 mins and they cannot get it better, that wheel has too much negative camber, so classed as RED. The NSF is - 30 mins. All other geo is bang on. Their explanation is there may be a defective bush in the NSF assembly, the car had 2 new top mounts last year, so i am guessing it is one or both bushes in the lower wishbone. I know you can buy a new arm with both bushes and that bolts to the chassis and lower ball joint and about £70 for the part, and an hour to fit and re-align the geo. Any thoughts on this please? The car is going to the same place for an MoT on Wednesday afternoon so may ask them to really check that NSF assembly. Thanks in advance.

There is no vibration in the steering wheel, just a lateral shake which makes you 'wobble' sideways about 1/8" at the low speeds (!) Wife notices too. Checked the run-out of the 4 wheels, just the NSF seems to be out by about 2mm at most. All tyre walls are true, as in really true. I'm wondering if a lower front wishbone bush is failing? (the rear bush in the aluminium housing). Wife says she can feel this movement in the passenger floor/toe board. Irritating. Getting close to selling the car now with the recent string of small issues.