911hillclimber

Here you go. Not sure I would buy from them again, won't bore anyone with the story, but there are several suppliers of the same thing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383644361317

Just been through all this on my 2014 4x4 Tour du France. The oil on the top motor bearing did not last long before, after 2 days not using the car it stopped moving again. a had hand slap freed it off. Decided to replace the old (92k miles) motor with a new one (£33). Took the glove box out. Make sure all is turned off on the dash beforehand! Remove all the connectors to bags and lights and cooling tube. Remove the box totally for easy access. Remove the distribution pipe (one screw) and twist the old motor out (tight). New in and revers is the assembly method. Get all the connectors to the bag and lights in place and loose the glove box into place. Turn the ignition on and check the fan functions via the dash controls. My new fan clicked as it rubbed inside the fan housing so had to remove everything and trim the fan blades(!) and back together. Doing this ensures the air bag warning light does not come on the dash permanently. Fan is super quiet and starts nearly instantly to control positions esp screen de-mist.

Have 17" alloy rims on my Skoda Superb Tour du France 4x4, and at low speeds, about 15 mph, there is a lateral 'wobble' to the car, feeling like it's from the front. The rim run out is about 1.5mm max on the NSF and about 1/2 that on the OSF Tyre wear is absolutely even round and across the tyres (all 4 in fact). All 4 tyres were replaced at the same time 2 years ago all the same make/size etc but the NSF has a very slow leak, about 3 psi in 2 or 3 weeks. There are no side wall bulges etc. BUT, the NSF is about 1mm more worn that the other front. and now at 5mm depth. Car is 4x4. As ever, the car has faced pot holes in the 92.000 miles it has from new and in my ownership. Could that level of run-out cause the wobble and could it induce tyre wear but even all over the tread of the tyre? 73T 911 Coupe, road/hillcl

Well.... Car stood standing for 36 hours, tested the fan, and it is tight again! Ordered a new one, £36 and 5 year warranted.

WARNING! If you test the blower using the car's connector with the air bag connector off the glove box he ecu will think there is an error/fault with the air bag system. This means the yellow air bag symbol comes up on the dash and stays illuminated when ign is on! You can only get this sorted using a suitable plug in reader. Just had mine done locally and cost £10. Dash now clear.

Yes, good to 'diy' these things. I thought it would entail stripping lots of the dash apart but not so. Not sure how long it will last, but when it tightens again I'll know what is involved. The bear is very exposed but could be better protected (and larger)

All fixed! Took the blower unit out, bit awkward to get the glove box push release cover off to get at the 6th glove box screw, but found the motor to be very stiff to turn. Added some engine oil to the top of the bearing that is by the fan blade moulding and put the 12V connector onto the motor and off it went like a good one. Ran it up through all the speeds and functions, and all is good. Ran it some more at max speed then min speed and response is good. Gravity will also get the oil into the top bearing that i presume is sealed to some degree. Not the perfect fix, but keeps the car on the road. If it stops again then a new one will go in. All in all a very DIY job, and satisfying to work on a modern car and win!

Just checked all the relevant fuses at the end of the dash board. All OK, nothing blown. 4 fuses in all that had anything with blower etc in the function. I can't read any relay having a function, so I can only presume the fan has instantly died. This has happened after the car was left standing for 11 days in an airport car park last week. It might have failed in the car park as we did not notice the fan was not running on the way home, but did yesterday. I see new blowers are available for around £60 on ebay, and youtube vids show the job is not too hard for DIY, so without pulling the fan blower out of the under dash I think I'm stuck! Need the car over the next 2 weeks so might just buy a blower and press-on fitting it.

14 reg Tour de France estate, 92K miles. Fan working normally yesterday, everything functioning. Today, the fan has stopped doing anything, screen de-mist down to normal face/screen/feet blower etc. not working. All lights for the ventilation working, the speed control switches show the speed lights, but no fan at all. Speed switch goes from off to full fan, but nothing happens in terms of fan working. I hope it is one of the fuses, but before delving into those does anyone have any experience of this fault please? Thanks, Graham.

Think I have this all sorted now, both fobs work as buttons and keyless. Changed the batteries in both fobs at Skoda dealership this afternoon, and even the handbook tells you how to sync the fobs together(!). As I did this (press out of sync fob button once (any button) and wait 1 minute. Key synchonizes with the car. The more I tried the freshly synchronized fob the more even the operation, ie both front doors unlocked off the button and keyless, then all doors, then the boot as well and then the engine could be started. Now, both fobs are the same. Result! Cost of battery changes, just £13.86 for two batteries fitted there and then, and the chance to talk a little about the forthcoming new Skoda Superb, quite fancy one! Surprisingly cheap i thought.

No, nothing like that. I hope to drop into my Skoda dealer (who sold me the car) tomorrow and ask them if the two fobs/car can be 'aligned' and both work the Keyless Locking. Maybe the battery in the unused fab is flat, it has been 10 years just in a drawer.

I've had my fab Skoda from new, bought in July 2014. It's just turned 90K miles, sweet as a nut. I've only used the one key fab from day one. That key fob has had 4 batteries, changed before they failed. Last battery went in 3 weeks ago, 'life time' battery. This fob works perfectly although the keyless lock 'touch' on the handle was hesitant this afternoon, but worked fine second try. This could be just me and touching the handle in the wrong spot, it is sensitive to exactly where you make contact, both front doors are like this from new. I tried the second unused key fob this afternoon and it flashes the small red light but the car does not respond in any way (only tried it to lock/unlock the car). I presume the two key codes are miles apart from each other, or the unused second fob's battery is too weak to work with the car. Not sure, but can anyone please advise how to get the two fobs to work with the car? Thanks in advance, Graham.

Bang on! It is a bright afternoon now, 3 pm and tried the car. The panel lights are on (dim) with no lights switched on. Switch the lights to SIDE and the panel stays dimly alight. Switch to headlamps and the panel light are 3 times brighter. So, indeed, the car tells you when to go to head lamps by cutting the panel lights OFF (not to the dim level). Neat safety feature. We rarely drive this car at night so the dash lamps will stay off until you switch to head lamps. Excellent, thank you.

Seems the car is 'normal' after all. My 2014 Superb has none of this, all works when on sides as well as headlamps of course. Thank you to all! Graham.

Just read it is the correct function. The car not switching on the panel lights when side lights switched on reminds you that you really should have the headlights on! Is that true?

We have had this great little car from new. 17K miles, all ok, but a curious thing is the instrument panel lights do not come on unless in the Headlamp position, thus they are off when the sidelights are switched on, then on when head lamps are selected. Is this normal or is there a menu somewhere to allow panel lights on with sides and headlamps? It's been like this from new we think, but not sure!

Indeed! Car covered for RAC recovery etc, so all good. Interesting that 'episode' came and went which is always 'there' in the mind. Time will tell, but could have spent £700 for nothing.

The car I intend to buy is a 2019 registration, have not seen the car yet as it is in 'preparation'. But the dealer says it does not have the spare wheel of any type, just the moose and tool kit. The boot floor on such cars is lower (I think) so quite a 100mm step at the rear cill point, thus the full size may not fit as the well is shallow. I'll need to wait until i see the car next week in person and check it out. I'm not obliged to buy it yet until after the test drive to ensure it is what we need and the ride is compliant rather than jarring.

Quick up-date on the clutch in my wifes low miles Citigo, 6 years old now. All working perfectly! Left the clutch alone and the glitch has stayed away. Can this be true, i always have car grief!

About to surrender my beloved 2014 Tour du France Superb for a L&K Superb, 2019. I think the L&K package does not have a full size spare wheel in the boot floor, just an inflation moose. Looks like you can buy the full size spare wheel/tyre/tools as a kit which will drop into the well just like my current TduF car. On google, I can buy the 18" wheel spare for around £300 which seems a good deal. This is from a Skoda dealer. Will it fit?

A week on and the car is still changing gear ok, but a few days ago it went awkward on start-up, but freed off almost immediately. Been perfect since. We will wait until it get much worse, especially after this lot: Asked 2 Skoda dealers local in Wolverhampton for an estimate to replace the clutch. i used their email 'Request information etc' link on their sites. Nothing, just 'we have your email' WHY is it dealers invite you use their contact link then ignore it? Maybe they only know how to arrange finance nowadays... Or do not know how to change a Citigo clutch. Local garage also seems put off to take the job on by quoting £999.40 includes everything (by that, VAT etc) 4.5 hours quoted at , say, £80/hour = £360. How can a Citigo non dual mass clutch cost £640? I've just bought a SACHS genuine heavy duty clutch 3 piece kit (even with special pinion spigot grease) with special light weight cover plate for my 1973 Porsche 911 for £370 deliverd to my door in 23 hours. These Citigos must be something hard and special! Where are all the real motor trade people nowadays gents?

Thank you all, but.... I took the warm car out yesterday and drove it badly. By that I mean I slipped the clutch like a learner pulling away several time to 'clean' the face of the driven plate. Not to the point of a smelling clutch, but gave it some grief. Neither of us drive this way, always super smooth and very measured pulling away. anyway, acid test this morning, wife off to the shops in the cold car. Started it. Snicked into gear just like it was new, and for all these years since, and drove a dream! Drove it again some 6 hours later, just the same but with me driving, absolutely NO probs, just the usual rattling clutch release when you change gear (so irritating, car's only fault). So, we will let sleeping dogs lye and see what the future brings. I am close to Birmingham, so that recommendation is appreciated, thank you.

Thank you for your reply to my question. I am quite well versed in 'car maintenance' but tend to keep away from modern cars and working on them. Just disconnecting the battery seems to generate it's own list of issues! Car will be driven today to the shops, will see what my wife says when she returns, but i do think it is a trip to a garage i trust, but that has recently been tricky to find! There is so much slap-dash working practice about, seems nobody cares anymore. My last encounter trying a new place was they left a liberal run/splashing of brake fluid over the engine of my Skoda superb after a fluid change, who would do that? Still, have another in mind, at least have lots to chose from, even the Skoda dealer we bought it from! I'm going there on Friday to get some touch-up paint, so perfect opportunity.

Wifes' Citigo Monte Carlo. Bought it new, 16K miles now, 66 reg. She gets 60mpg and even I get 55 so 'carefully' driven. no traffic driving, just shopping and a weekly good A road run to clear it's throat. Only had to replace 2 light bulbs. However... She found getting into any gear a struggle today before setting off to the shops, and this has been happening every now and then over the last month. All gears awkward which suggests clutch dragging to me. This is when 'cold' ie about 15/20 degC. Box is lovely and smooth with engine off. From new the box has the rattle when you change gear unless you are very very smooth and care to lift the clutch pedal, but I think this is a common irritation (thrust bearing??). So, what are your thought please? I presume the clutch is hydraulic so non adjustable. Could this mean a new clutch coming our way? Comments appreciated, thank you.

I'm ahead of you! When all this game started someone on here suggested fine Baby powder(!). I hired a ramp locally (£8 hour, a bargain) got the car up and 'puffed' baby powder in the turbo area while the engine was hot and running. I dowsed the length of the exhaust too. The baby powder is very fine and whaffs about in the air. Any leaks and jets of gasses would show as disturbance of the powder as you suggest. Absolutely nothing, the powder just sank slowly through the air to the ramp. I did this for about 30 mins all to no avail. I did tell the operator what i was doing as he was very surprised, but said the workshop had never smelt so nice!