micro

Hi mate, I've had a good push/pull of the aircon pulley and nothing seems out of place. It's gone in to have the belt/water pump done at a VW dealer, and i've asked for the water pump to be retained so I can see it. A good deal on it really too, they beat the fixed price of Skoda/VW even after Skoda's "you need to do this" discount of £60. And for some more good news, since refilling the coolant i've lost none, so hopefully just lost some to evaporation because the cap wasn't fully shut. - micro

Funnily enough a flyer through the door today, code CAM10 with Skoda and 10% off cambelt and waterpump. Unfortunately with the service and MOT, we're still hitting £7-800... looks like lots of overtime is going to need to be done for next month!

Well, that's exactly what I thought I was doing. Which in my mind should not be possible... I've noted the coolant level and will keep an eye on it I've inquired with some local garages as to cost and availability!

Bag removal went really without a hitch (so far!), removed the reservoir from the car and tipped it as I removed the two hoses, then proceeded to tip it the other way and douse myself and the drive in coolant Only damage caused to the bag was by me on removal (although there is an orange scale that i've managed to remove some of inside the reservoir on cleaning it). Having had the bonnet open and running the engine, i've noticed a weird "grumbly" noise coming from the drivers side. It's a bit weird, and doesn't seem to overly change at increasing rpms. You might be able to hear it in the video behind the normal engine noise. Something that was a bit un-nerving was that putting even slight pressure on one of the side covers (the cover physically moves in a small amount) causes a rubbing sound (like a pulley rubbing on the cover). Water pump suggestion immediately springs to mind :( Engine_Trim.mp4

Hi Nick, Haven't topped up the coolant since I checked on Thursday, and although I was sure the ground was relatively level, i've checked it again and it's back half-way between the min/max, and looks fairly level in the reservoir (this time on the drive at home, which is level). The only difference is today i've checked it whilst the engine is warm, and the engine would have been cold on Thursday. I've had a look round the engine bay, and aside from a bit of water/dirt on the undertray (believed from todays rain and driving), there are no telltale skid marks anywhere on the engine. Coolant reservoir off tomorrow to remove the bag and then will top-up with diluted G13 (which is surprisingly purple compared to the coolant already in the reservoir...).

I'll have a good look around tonight and tomorrow, if nothing i'll monitor and ask the garage to inspect the water pump when they do the timing belt. Cheers!

Hey guys! Nearly 2 years on from buying my Octavia, and the big bills are starting to come in (Timing belt/etc due August). I've noticed over the past 12 months i've had to top the coolant up as was just below the min line - topped up to mid-way between min-max and it was then good again for another 6-9 months. We're back below the min line again. Probably covered 7-8000 miles in that time. I can't see any *obvious* leaks, although I did realise the cap wasn't fully screwed on (had another 3/4 turn before it clicked shut). I've also got the silicate bag so that is going to be removed first thing Sunday morning when I have some coolant to replace what i'll lose removing the tank - the bag looks intact, and coolant a clear pink colour. Is there anywhere in particular that tends to leak? The heaters are warm, the engine warms up and runs fine, no error codes, etc. Or does this just sound like a bit of loss to atmosphere (through cap)? My previous car never needed topping up, although had it's coolant replaced fairly regularly I believe by the garage doing the servicing.

I looked for any options to flip the video - but when I found out that the lines were from the camera not the MIBII head unit then definitely camera at fault. I had those options on my previous Android based head unit.

And our survey says - dodgy camera. The red wire in the signal cable that comes out of the inline connector measures at 12V, and is definitely a power wire. Not sure whether it could have touched bodywork where it was mounted and heatshrunk, but was exploring all options. Tested with a TV and 12V DC power adapter The camera popped up, indeed lines on the bottom, and camera image flipped, with the inline connector getting extremely hot in the process. Joined the wires directly (removed the inline connector), and the camera popped up again then went *poof* permanently. Opened the camera module up to find, seemingly, good build quality with the entire unit potted in a soft rubbery compound, except for where the wires had been soldered. There is a visible char mark on the 12v+ wire, and not beyond the realms of possibility that the positive wire has been intermittently touching nearby components. My theory is that the inline connector has been high enough resistance to keep the current low enough that it hasn't just gone immediately poof before. Luckily it appears that my park pilot system is intact in the car - have had to de-code the reversing camera as otherwise the OPS screen gets confused as there is no camera signal then goes "Park pilot unavailable". Have ordered another camera from a different supplier on AliExpress, supposedly marked as a "Pro" version. The pictures show them using standard phono plugs for the video line and DC barrel jack for power, but then so did the original camera then came with the inline connector!

Hey guys! My reverse camera has had flickery lines for a bit then totally cut out a few days ago. Occasionally it'd come back, but then go again. It's an AliExpress boot handle special. Removed the rear trim from the tailgate and reconnected the signal ground wire which had broken - connected it all up and started the car again... the camera image is perfect BUT vertically inverted (park pilot buttons and guide lines are all the correct way up). Had a quick look in OBDEleven but the coding is all how i've left it. Did notice the slimline inline 4pin connector was getting warm (probably 30 degrees C or so) when powered, so am probably going to cut that connector out and splice the wires together. There is a red wire coming from the camera which I had left disconnected originally, but it feasibly could have touched bodywork - maybe an option wire?). Not sure if anyone had seen this before and had the solution or not! Cheers

Yes the small screws that go into the back of the caliper - not the disc screw. I know my rear pad set came with new ones, but as I'm not replacing the brake components just wanted to make sure there's not a mechanical reason for it (possibility of stretch fasteners). I'll put some threadlocker on and ensure torqued to spec. Cheers guys!

Hi, I need to remove one of my front brake discs to inspect the brake disc backing plate - I notice in the service info that the caliper screws are listed as "replace after each use", and appear to have thread locker pre-applied from the factory. What is the consensus on re-using these screws if cleaned up and fresh threadlocker applied, or if not, does anyone know the part number for them? Thanks,

Not to mention - BACKUP your module configuration before changing anything. It's a lifesaver when you get a "Module misconfiguration" code set and can't figure out what actually did it...

I'd only buy direct from them. Besides, the device by itself is only £39.99 (cheaper than your link). The pro option is only necessary if you need features that it unlocks - you may find it's cheaper in the app rather than purchasing a code online. https://obdeleven.com/en/home/10-obdeleven-device-0725423005103.html

Just to clarify things - OBDII and OBDEleven are two different things. OBDII is the diagnostic standard - you can buy cheap OBDII dongles on eBay (the ELM327 clones), some of which don't play nicely with certain apps. Torque is one app that can talk to the car using these dongles and reset engine codes (not individual module codes), and read certain diagnostic data. OBDEleven is a specific dongle that uses their own app, but it can talk to every module in your car, activate special functions (possibly the light adjustment, but you'd need to clarify this on their own forum), clear codes out of any modules, do long coding and adjust adaptations. Carista is a similar dongle that uses it's own app, but I haven't used it so can't comment.

The design of the clip means the trim gets retained and will allow the curtain airbag to deploy afaik. To get them off, pull the trim away, then slide it down. To put it back on, slide the clips in, and clip the trim on.

I broke two of these when installing my dash cam, i'm sure they're the cheapest metal possible! - ordered from my local VW dealer, and on collection the parts guy just looked at me, looked at the clips, put them on the desk and walked away... The remnants of one of mine is still in the A pillar somewhere too!

What car have you got? I'm planning on doing my rear brakes next week - probably Pagid or Bosch brand discs and pads. I'll let you know if there are any issues!

Highly recommend the OBDeleven dongle - VAG group compatible (can do coding and stuff like that), but also dealer level diagnostics. It probably won't work with the DPF app and the like, but definitely more useful!

I considered this (and would potentially be a safer bet, due to the paved drive, my trolley jack doesn't move smoothly!) Cheers!

Hey guys, Had an advisory on the MOT regarding severely grooved and worn pads/discs on the rear. Have decided to have a go on the drive (have done Front brakes before on my Focus, and rear drum clean-up/lube). First question is - where is best to jack my Octy up? I'd love a central point which would jack both sides, however, I can't seem to see anything that I could jack onto to achieve that. I remember the tyre guys getting my car fully in the air with only 3 jacks (that was interesting)! I've located these points either side: I presume it will be ok to jack on these with a flat rubber puck over one of these holes where the jacking accessories go, and then either put an axle stand in by the side if room, or over the sill lip? If not, have you guys got any good locations for an axle stand? The entire rear end will have to be in the air to do the rear brakes from reading the service manual, as you have to adjust the handbrake tension whilst being able to see the rear calipers. Second question is - do I need to buy a triple square bit for the rear caliper bolts/caliper carrier bolts? If so, does anyone know what size? Third, and final I promise!, question is: I presume as i've got a standard Octy 1.6 diesel i'll have the smaller rear discs? 253mm vs 278mm? Cheers!